Ideal EMTB drive train (shifting, not motor)

Jever98,

I've actually gave this a lot of thought when I got my first ebike. The areas I like to ride are very rocky. I find that a long derailleur arm is not always the ideal setup. Dispite my best efforts, I've occasionally place my bike in situations where the rear derailleur arm would 'Take one for the Team.'

SRAM Eagler AXS, hard hit on a rock drop, Brohemian Rhapsody Trail, Las Vegas Nevada.
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Being new to eMTB at the time, I found that on power moves such as a punchy climb, I was snapping chains frequently. I often thought about how much thicker chains chains used to be on the older 9 speed drivetrain setups. I also questioned why the need for 12 speeds on an eBike? I get 12 speeds on a traditional bike, but why an eBike? After all, I was receiving plenty of power from the bike, why not a more robust eight or nine speed system?

By going with a smaller cassette typically found on an eight or nine speed system, I could decrease the length of the derailleur arm and it would be less prone to rock strikes.

For those new to mountian biking, Shimano and others uses a letter suffix added to the rear derailleur model number to denote derailleur arm length. Shimano's primary designations are SS for Short Cage, GS for Medium Cage, and SGS for Long Cage. One of the primary functions of a derailleur arm is to take up slack and keep tension on the chain as it is shifted between cogs. A larger cassette requires more chain and thus a longer derailleur arm to accomodate the increased length of chain. I would like to add that rocks are immensely attracted to longer derailleur arms. It's one of those 'Rules of nature' thingies.

There are several companies such as 'Box' which offers eight and nine speed systems for eMTB, that have a thick chain, semi wide range cassete , i.e. 11-42, and short derailleur cage. The financial cost for one of these drivetrains is minimal when compared to say a SRAM Eagle Type T drivetrain. If you find that the terrain you ride tends to snap chains, smash derailleurs, or you simply just want a piece of Old School, this may be the ticket to happiness and less fuss.

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I tried one of these systems and it worked well. However, the cassette range impacted my riding, i.e. I was sweating my balls off on steep climbs. I live in Southern California which features a lot of mountain terrain and steep trails. I also like the 'Rock Crawling' type of trails found in the Nevada, Utah and Arizona areas. In my old age, I found I'd gotten spoiled riding with a wide range cassette. I went back to my SRAM AXS. As a side note, I have absolutely nothing to say bad about Shimano drivetrains, it's just that I love the locking derailleur arm on SRAM drivetrains. It makes working on a bike so much easier.

I currently use the SRAM 'T-Type' AXS drivetrain, coupled with a Bosch Race motor. It's a great system and I have felt no need to change. Occasionlly, I will have to replace the derailleur arm. It's one of those costs of doing business things. Swapping out a T-Type derailleur arm is a quick and easy process that does not require breaking the chain and takes only about few minutes to do.

T-Type replacement derailleur arm
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Below I'm going to discuss a seperate drivetrain topic for those who are interested:
While many riders like to increase chain ring size to increase top end speed, I found myself actually decreasing chain ring size, i.e. 26T - 28T, to increase bike range. My first eBike was an Orbea Rise with 65Nm motor and 360Wh battery. On steep climbs, I found that I was using a lot of boost. I was quickly draining my battery and thus ride length. I reasoned that if I went to a 26T or 28T chain ring, I could use 'Eco' mode more often and less boost. Decreasing chain ring size ultimately proved successful and I was able to increase overall range/ride distance by about 20%.

I average about 2,500 to 3,000 miles of riding annually. I was stretching chains out to 50% wear in about 400 to 500 miles. Because the SRAM AXS T-Type derailleur has no screw adjustment, the drivetrain requires a very exact chain length to shift properly. When the chain stretches to 50% wear, this increases overall chain length by about 6mm. A 6mm difference in chain length will directly impact T-Type shifting. The more the T-Type chain stretches, the worse your shifting will become. It's a very gradual degradation. So, if you find your T-Type drivetrain is no longer shifting smoothly or making noise, check your chain stretch. This will likely be the cause. A new chain will restore smooth and quiet shifting.

New style SRAM Type T chain (Note the thicker chain plate)
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Older style SRAM Eagle chain
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I'm not fond of replacing chains at 450 miles of use. I began experimenting with chain lubes. I reasoned that what was desgined for a traditional bike drive train may not be sufficient to withstand the torque and friction produced by an eBike motor. I trains in Southern California rains once a year, whether it needs to or not. Because of a lack of rain, the trails develop a very fine, talcum powder dirt that's abrasive. A wet lube severely attracts this abrasive dust. I've always used dry chain lubes, i.e. Rock n Roll Gold, Muc-Off Dry Lube, Squirt, White Lightening, etc. After a bit of experimentation, I've settled upon Dumonde 'Pro X Regular Formula', chain lube as my current favorite. It's marketed as a dry lube, but i'd describe it as a semi dry and wet lube. I was surprised by how well it the lubriction works. I noticed an immediate reduction in drivetrain noise and I no longer need to lube my chain before a ride. I now apply lubrication about every 5th or 6th ride. I currently have 1,000 miles on my chain and it's only at about 25% stretch. There is one definite downside to Dumonde Pro X, it attracts dirt and it requires a more frequent cleaning of the derailleur pulleys and chain.

View attachment 178681

Be safe,
Rod

These tests were done pre-Transmission, but they conclusively show that Sram Eagle chains wore better than all other previous chains, including those old 8-9 speeds. The wear of chains isn't from the side plates, it comes from the rollers wearing out.

The most economical chain to purchase is the X01 12 speed chain, Eagle or Transmission.

If you wax your drivetrains, at least in my case, I approximately doubled my chain life and my cassettes last thousands of miles. All that greasy chain lube just grinds in all the dirt into your drivetrain.

I run a 12speed Eagle X01 chain on everything.

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I run a 12speed Eagle X01 chain on everything.
The XO Eagle Transmission chains are £80, the Eagle 70 Transmission chains are £25. That graph doesn't suggest the XO chain lasts longer than 3+ Eagle 70 ones?

Are you accounting for perhaps less wear on the rest of the drive chain?
 
The XO Eagle Transmission chains are £80, the Eagle 70 Transmission chains are £25. That graph doesn't suggest the XO chain lasts longer than 3+ Eagle 70 ones?

Are you accounting for perhaps less wear on the rest of the drive chain?

The GX Eagle chain was stretched at 2200 kms whereas the X01 eagle was stretched at 6800 kms. So the GX would need to cost less than 32% of the total cost of the X01 to be more economical.

Where I shop GX chains run about 60% of the cost of the X01. And yes, one should also consider the other drivetrain components that get worn down when the chain is worn.
 
The GX Eagle chain was stretched at 2200 kms whereas the X01 eagle was stretched at 6800 kms. So the GX would need to cost less than 32% of the total cost of the X01 to be more economical.

Where I shop GX chains run about 60% of the cost of the X01. And yes, one should also consider the other drivetrain components that get worn down when the chain is worn.
Thanks for that, was hard to make out the numbers on the graph. Looks like the Eagle 70 chains are available for just under 32% of the price here, so I can certainly see why you get the XO Eagle ones where you are. Given me food for thought.
 
But i burn through more derailleurs than i do chains....
I used to burn through derailleurs. Broke 2 in the first 6 months of buying my first EMTB. But I'm just a little more careful with my derailleurs now. And careful only means. Lean the bike aways from rigid obstacles, or anything that will catch it, on the derailleur side. Stop pedalling when going over loose branches on the ground.

I haven't broken an electronic derailleur in 3 years. Bent the cage, sure. But I can get the SRAM T-Type cages for AUD$60 on Aliexpress. And unless it's completely mangled, you can straighten the cage if you have a reference new cage.

If you are constantly impacting derailleurs where you destroy them. Then maybe you need to look at your riding technique. I ride really hard. But I always ride knowing where my derailleur is, and the level of risk any obstacle ahead will create. I adjust my line accordingly, or as I said. I lean the bike away as the derailleur passes that obstacle.

If you are constantly impacting your derailleur. It is going to shift really poorly for the rest of the ride. So perhaps a strategy to care for it better is needed.

I come from motor sports. And the best drivers and riders, are the ones who don't have equipment failure, because they factor caring for the equipment, into their driving or riding.

Just a thought.
 
My gasgas mxc 5 with Sram gx with auto shift and coast shifting is super nice. The auto shift works most for just cruising or flatter ground but still nice. Once it get techinical I just use manual.
I had autoshift on my Shimano 11speed Di2 transmission. It just shifts too late, or when you don't want it to. Never used again after trying it.

Coastshift on the other hand, is a game changer. Being able to remain perfectly balanced, or going over pedal strike terrain, and still being able to instantly shift up or down 2 or 3 gears, without moving your feet, is invaluable. It literally the difference between being able to clear a climb or not, or just maintain your momentum when coming across unexpected obstacles and undulations.

It also means you can shift whilst fully leaning the bike over in a berm, and seeing something ahead that needs a different gear.
 
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Thanks for that, was hard to make out the numbers on the graph. Looks like the Eagle 70 chains are available for just under 32% of the price here, so I can certainly see why you get the XO Eagle ones where you are. Given me food for thought.

Sure if you don't care about the environmental waste of 2 extra chains. Maybe you could club some baby seals while you are at it?

Sorry, I'm in a mood today...
 
I used to burn through derailleurs. Broke 2 in the first 6 months of buying my first EMTB. But I'm just a little more careful with my derailleurs now. And careful only means. Lean the bike aways from rigid obstacles, or anything that will catch it, on the derailleur side. Stop pedalling when going over loose branches on the ground.

I haven't broken an electronic derailleur in 3 years. Bent the cage, sure. But I can get the SRAM T-Type cages for AUD$60 on Aliexpress. And unless it's completely mangled, you can straighten the cage if you have a reference new cage.

If you are constantly impacting derailleurs where you destroy them. Then maybe you need to look at your riding technique. I ride really hard. But I always ride knowing where my derailleur is, and the level of risk any obstacle ahead will create. I adjust my line accordingly, or as I said. I lean the bike away as the derailleur passes that obstacle.

If you are constantly impacting your derailleur. It is going to shift really poorly for the rest of the ride. So perhaps a strategy to care for it better is needed.

I come from motor sports. And the best drivers and riders, are the ones who don't have equipment failure, because they factor caring for the equipment, into their driving or riding.

Just a thought.
You are making the assumption and the track is open and obstacles are visible and that slowing and going around obstacles is an option. I dont ever damage derailleurs on standard bike park trail.

In my instance chase a lot of obscure steep hike a bike track which is often over grown and also parts of the track are so steep that once you roll into that section you are committed until the track flattens out. Often times the derailleur damaging thing is hidden in grasses and ferns im riding through and other times i get slightly offline on a super steep section and just have to ride that section out until i can get back online, if i hit anything along the way so be it....

The last derailleur I tore in half was on a steep committed section and I went maybe 100mm offline and the the thing that tore the deraelleur in half was hidden in some grasses. I heard it go, but couldnt stop for another 20 odd meters of vert....

Its just an occupational hazard of chasing that type of trail.

Here's some picks that dont really do it justice, but give you an idea.
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Just run wired linkglide and ride your bike instead of worrying about drive train
LinkGlide works great but that cassette is soooooo heavy. If someone made a titanium version with all the nifty shift ramps and sold it for $1,000 I bet there'd be a market.
 
EMTbs could work great with an 8 speed cassette and wider/stronger chains.

I was excited about the new transmission DH7 speed release for a hot minute until I realized it uses the same skinny ass chain as the 12 speed set up.

Great for sram, crap for us.
 
Sure if you don't care about the environmental waste of 2 extra chains. Maybe you could club some baby seals while you are at it?

Sorry, I'm in a mood today...
By that argument ride your relay until it falls apart
 
In my instance chase a lot of obscure steep hike a bike track which is often over grown and also parts of the track are so steep that once you roll into that section you are committed until the track flattens out.
Fair enough. But I would run a dedicated bike for that terrain. Destroying your nice $16K Crestline in that terrain would not bring me joy.
 
You are making the assumption and the track is open and obstacles are visible and that slowing and going around obstacles is an option. I dont ever damage derailleurs on standard bike park trail.

In my instance chase a lot of obscure steep hike a bike track which is often over grown and also parts of the track are so steep that once you roll into that section you are committed until the track flattens out. Often times the derailleur damaging thing is hidden in grasses and ferns im riding through and other times i get slightly offline on a super steep section and just have to ride that section out until i can get back online, if i hit anything along the way so be it....

The last derailleur I tore in half was on a steep committed section and I went maybe 100mm offline and the the thing that tore the deraelleur in half was hidden in some grasses. I heard it go, but couldnt stop for another 20 odd meters of vert....

Its just an occupational hazard of chasing that type of trail.

Here's some picks that dont really do it justice, but give you an idea.
View attachment 178700View attachment 178703
Mate, you're doing it all wrong. Point your bike down the hill. 😜
 
3X3 nine hub with single speed heavy duty chain with steel chainring is ideal EMTB drivetrain. I used a bunch if different derailleurs drivetrains, used Kindernay XIV gearhub drivertain, used Kindernay VII gearhub drivetrain and finally use 3X3 nine hub drivetrain now.

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Fair enough. But I would run a dedicated bike for that terrain. Destroying your nice $16K Crestline in that terrain would not bring me joy.
The Crestline and handle the jandle. Derailleurs... not so much.

One day in the future im hoping for some sort of one speed motor that doesnt a gearbox or external gears that weighs for less than my crestline.... that would be the holy grail.

For now its destroying derailleurs sporadically.

I am curious about the shorter cage 9-45 XT DI2. Which might get less banged around due to the shorter cage but cant bring myself to risk $1k on the test and the resulting $800k price tag of a replacement deraileur when i need one.
 
LinkGlide works great but that cassette is soooooo heavy. If someone made a titanium version with all the nifty shift ramps and sold it for $1,000 I bet there'd be a market.
In a different post on here we were discussing exactly that desire (a lighter Linkglide cassette), which prompted me to inquire with Garbaruk. They said they have that project on their radar, and hope to have one out sometime this Summer, so keep your fingers crossed. Their construction style is pretty darn light as they machine the cassettes out of 1 piece like sram and remove all excess material, so I'm hoping for a best of both worlds (Linkglide durability, but at a weight competitive with all but the lightest HG/Transmission cassettes).
 
3X3 nine hub with single speed heavy duty chain with steel chainring is ideal EMTB drivetrain. I used a bunch if different derailleurs drivetrains, used Kindernay XIV gearhub drivertain, used Kindernay VII gearhub drivetrain and finally use 3X3 nine hub drivetrain now.

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Intrigued but wondering about unsprung weight.

Also, what wheels are those??
 
When you're all saying the range up to 52t is pointless, believe me its not if you're climbing short, sharp technical terrain.
That said, what I would like is a bigger front ring (I can only go to a 34t or 36? on my wild), whereas my mates have managed to go up to a 38t on their Whytes. Putting you higher up the cassette is better for the chain life, but also gives you better ratios on the trail.
 
LinkGlide works great but that cassette is soooooo heavy. If someone made a titanium version with all the nifty shift ramps and sold it for $1,000 I bet there'd be a market.
it's ~160g heavier than a GX T-type cassette, but it is made of Steel. So incredibly more durable for an ebike use case.
 
For sure SRAM is not building the right product currently for e-bike useage.

But yes a hard wired mid-cage derailleur combined with a 10-45, 10 or 11 speed cassette built for durability and power shifting would be the Bees knees.
 
For sure SRAM is not building the right product currently for e-bike useage.

But yes a hard wired mid-cage derailleur combined with a 10-45, 10 or 11 speed cassette built for durability and power shifting would be the Bees knees.
Am I correct in assuming that cage length is proportional to the largest cog ?
 
I'm kinda surprised no one has reverse engineered or decoded transmission to make it move differently to allow for different gear spacing ie shimano or 11 speed or others
 
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