Hows everyone getting on with their New AMflow

I’m unsure how to fit an angle set, I can’t see enough space for the bearing unless you went to a straight steerer?

The stem and bar were both swapped for a one up cockpit and I didn’t like the linear pull on the MT5 so swapped the levers for XT .
The angleset will be a long term project - using the current tapered fork. I have ideas about how to do it. Will report if I’m successful.
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
Amflow barely survived to round 3 don't know if it survived at round 4.

 
3 rides in on the silver pl and I’m very happy. It’s a perfect trail bike for typical blues with moderate jumps.

Pros in no particular order:
. 21kg for XL does not feel porky at all - it rides pretty much like a regular mtb - reminds me of my old Spec x wing enduro in the air and with its sleddy (read under steering) handling
. It’s ‘relatively’ well priced with ‘good’ components - the fox ‘performance’ front and rear shock are excellent and all you could want for - the fork in particular is super floaty on the chatter and solid in the hits - the Magura 5’s are powerful but do look to have close brake disc/pad tolerances so discs might be a consumable if they warp/get bent
. The dji system is fab - lovely to ride, quiet uphill and down, flexible in the app, eats your mates’ for lunch on the uphill if you want, or will wander gently along at anologue pace if you are out with your hold out mates - the ‘auto’ setting gives all this and more - brilliant
. Has excellent range and super fast charging.
. It speaks kiwi!

Some cons in my experience thus far:
. The stem is a bit wimpy, but easy to change out from the box of bits in the garage
. The alloy bar is an rsj with no compliance at all - I’ve ordered a One Up carbon bar to replace it
. The head tube design is a bit of a head scratcher - I’ll be putting in an angleset - looking for 66 degrees as a means to eliminate the understeer - but this will require some time on the lathe to fabricate a work around given the ‘funky’ head tube design
. On todays ride I got the creak - only happens pedalling out of chundery corners so I figure it’s the motor/mounts in combination with some torsionally flexed carbon around that area - I will be dropping the motor to grease all these points… hoping to eliminate that, as others have. 🤞

So far, so good. All up, it’s 8/10 from me. Good work dji!
Agree with the comments on factory stem. It looks quite beefy but is actually awful. Swapped to One-Up stem & carbon bars after one ride and no complaints about rigidity of the bike up front and lost a chunk of weight too. Also swapped the front disc for a Magura floating one, and the performance seems much better.
 
No doubt about it the AMFLOW is a great bike, and the DJI Motor is the class leader in power and size. But what gets me is that in 99% of the videos that i see going on about just how fast this bike is, hardly any talk about what region level on restriction its running.
 
No doubt about it the AMFLOW is a great bike, and the DJI Motor is the class leader in power and size. But what gets me is that in 99% of the videos that i see going on about just how fast this bike is, hardly any talk about what region level on restriction its running.
That region thing is a cherry on top for those who want that. I believe the main cake is the great manners of the motor and bike, the overall value proposition, and the 800wh for 20kg +\-.
 
Good review, can you post back once you've dropped the motor and greased the bits, as mine suffers the same and don't know if I could be bothered doing all that if it's for nothing.
OK, so I got rid of the creak.

It wasn’t the engine mount bolts - I tested this by slackening those two bolts off big time then taking the bike for a gentle ride around the block. Creak remained. I then retorqued these back to 20-22nm as per the manual.

I then disassembled and regreased every pivot. Problem solved.

I’m pretty sure the biggest culprit was the rear triangle LHS lower pivot which had loosened off - needs 24nm. But also the yoke/shock shaft junction which cracked at the slightest movement. (The lateral movement of the Spec yoke design under side load is a known thing - eats air shock seals for breakfast - a coil is often a prescribed remedy.)

Not much grease in these pivot faces ex factory… I’d recommend a regrease and re-assembly with blue Loctite as a matter of course.
 
Last edited:
Wh
OK, so I got rid of the creak.

It wasn’t the engine mount bolts - I tested this by slackening those two bolts off big time then taking the bike for a ride around the block. Creak remained. I then retorqued these back to 20-22nm as per the manual.

I then disassembled and regreased every pivot. Problem solved.

I’m pretty sure the biggest culprit was the main triangle LHS lower pivot which had loosened off - needs 24nm. But also the yoke/shock shaft junction which cracked at the slightest movement. (The lateral movement of the Spec yoke design under side load is a known thing - eats air shock seals for breakfast - a coil is often a prescribed remedy.)

Not much grease in these pivot faces ex factory… I’d recommend a regrease and re-assembly with blue Loctite as a matter of course.
What grease did you use?
I noticed when I changed the flip chip over it had a sparing amount of white grease.
 
Last edited:
Anyone know what the stock material of the brake pads are on the carbon PL? Mine sound like shit, the rear squeals and the front is even worse.

I didn't want to replace them until they wore out but after nearly 500ks I've just about had enough, no need for a bell on the trails, everyone can hear me coming from miles away.
 
3 rides in on the silver pl and I’m very happy. It’s a perfect trail bike for typical blues with moderate jumps.

Pros in no particular order:
. 21kg for XL does not feel porky at all - it rides pretty much like a regular mtb - reminds me of my old Spec x wing enduro in the air and with its sleddy (read under steering) handling
. It’s ‘relatively’ well priced with ‘good’ components - the fox ‘performance’ front and rear shock are excellent and all you could want for - the fork in particular is super floaty on the chatter and solid in the hits - the Magura 5’s are powerful but do look to have close brake disc/pad tolerances so discs might be a consumable if they warp/get bent
. The dji system is fab - lovely to ride, quiet uphill and down, flexible in the app, eats your mates’ for lunch on the uphill if you want, or will wander gently along at anologue pace if you are out with your hold out mates - the ‘auto’ setting gives all this and more - brilliant
. Has excellent range and super fast charging.
. It speaks kiwi!

Some cons in my experience thus far:
. The stem is a bit wimpy, but easy to change out from the box of bits in the garage
. The alloy bar is an rsj with no compliance at all - I’ve ordered a One Up carbon bar to replace it
. The head tube design is a bit of a head scratcher - I’ll be putting in an angleset - looking for 66 degrees as a means to eliminate the understeer - but this will require some time on the lathe to fabricate a work around given the ‘funky’ head tube design
. On todays ride I got the creak - only happens pedalling out of chundery corners so I figure it’s the motor/mounts in combination with some torsionally flexed carbon around that area - I will be dropping the motor to grease all these points… hoping to eliminate that, as others have. 🤞

So far, so good. All up, it’s 8/10 from me. Good work dji!
yep, I agree, first thing I did was replace the bar and stem.

one up or put something like a Renthal Fat Bar, on it, ...and it makes a big difference. Rock Solid.

intially I got the creak in the cranks too, .. grease it, ...maybe they didn't use enough in production.
 
Well I replaced my pads today and I should have bought the single pads, I didn't and bought the stock pads and what a pain in the arse they are to swap over. What a shit house design.
 
What are ‘single’ pads?
Worded poorly, mt7, 4 individual pads rather than the mt5 pads they came with. You can't slide the mt5 in from the top and it was an absolute bitch to install them from the bottom due to the hook on top of the pads.
 
What are ‘single’ pads?

Single
1740813608931.png


Not single
1740813681345.png
 
I have junked the mt5 levers and fitted XT ones, lots more power and modulation due to the cam design and also picked up a 11/6 off of a evil following, I may have to re shim it as the rebound isn’t quite fast enough for me.

16F77F94-178A-45EB-A933-B46AA2CF3257.jpeg
 
How many kms ?
They still had tons of meat but the rear was squealing and the front howling, swapped to a different manufacturer and problem persists so not sure what it could be. First time I've had magura brakes, always run sram in the past.

Maybe it's my braking style, I'm always lightly on the brakes on decents and that's when it starts squealing, at moderate to hard braking no sound.
 
They still had tons of meat but the rear was squealing and the front howling, swapped to a different manufacturer and problem persists so not sure what it could be. First time I've had magura brakes, always run sram in the past.

Maybe it's my braking style, I'm always lightly on the brakes on decents and that's when it starts squealing, at moderate to hard braking no sound.
I always ran the Aliexpress Resin pads on my shimano brakes. Whilst they wore out quicker. They had good bite and were always quiet. I'm going to try the same on the Maguras.
 
  • Like
Reactions: iXi
I've just changed my MT7 pads for aftermarket 'not single' pads.
I have spent too much time trying to silence the standard pads so finally gave in and changed them after only 250mls. Despite the pads and discs still looking like new they where making a loud bird tweet sound while riding brakes off, and a loud Turkey gobble sound and lever vibration under braking.
I changed to 'Uber Brakes' emtb not single pads and so far they've been silent and have more bite than the originals. Just hope they stay silent!
 
That region thing is a cherry on top for those who want that. I believe the main cake is the great manners of the motor and bike, the overall value proposition, and the 800wh for 20kg +\-.
The SW on the DJI needs improving to much space between the modes to fine tune, SPZ wins in this area. Same for the cut off when you hit 15.5 even on a 6 years old Levo its very smooth. On the DJI at 15.5 its like hitting a wall.
 
The SW on the DJI needs improving to much space between the modes to fine tune, SPZ wins in this area. Same for the cut off when you hit 15.5 even on a 6 years old Levo its very smooth. On the DJI at 15.5 its like hitting a wall.
Don’t have any of this on mine, have you updated to the latest firmware?
 
How much frame flex you guys seeing? I burn through drivetrains on my 2021 rise because of flex. Bike skips (without shifting gears) when I'm cranking coming out of flat corners when there's heavy side load.
 
How much frame flex you guys seeing? I burn through drivetrains on my 2021 rise because of flex. Bike skips (without shifting gears) when I'm cranking coming out of flat corners when there's heavy side load.
None, but I’m only 75kg. I do ride quite hard though, I’m on my second chain at 910 miles, I swap them at 500 mile intervals.
 
I have a standard bb flex test (see attached). The Amflow is not a stiff bike at all, as you can see.


That said, chain skip? This I don’t understand.

BTW - I got rid of the crack/creak - as reported elsewhere above - by greasing and retensioning all the pivot bolts.
 
None, but I’m only 75kg. I do ride quite hard though, I’m on my second chain at 910 miles, I swap them at 500 mile intervals.
I'm 90 kgs and only notice it on my Rise in full power (motor and legs) cranks with side load. It will slip/clunk which sucks when its a turn into a jump. I really need to get a demo on whatever bike I buy next.
 
I'm 90 kgs and only notice it on my Rise in full power (motor and legs) cranks with side load. It will slip/clunk which sucks when its a turn into a jump. I really need to get a demo on whatever bike I buy next.
I'm 110kg and I don't get it skipping gears but I feel the flex when driving through the pedals with the bike leaned.

I also lubed and re-torqued all the Pivot bolts and the cracking went away, I still get the odd sound but I think it's the frame flexing.
 
I'm 90 kgs and only notice it on my Rise in full power (motor and legs) cranks with side load. It will slip/clunk which sucks when its a turn into a jump. I really need to get a demo on whatever bike I buy next.
I had the same issue on my rise until I switched to a different link, either the cascade link or the 2nd generation link.
 
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    668K
    Messages
    40,756
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top