Stripping a rear hub depends entirely on which hub you've got, so without knowing the make and model I can only give you the general principles. The detail varies enormously between a Shimano SLX, a DT Swiss 350, a Hope Pro 5, or a generic OEM hub.
The general process for most modern hubs:
Start by removing the wheel from the bike and taking the cassette off (you'll need a lockring tool and chainwhip, or a cassette that uses a Microspline/HG splined removal). Once the cassette is off, the freehub body is exposed.
Next, the end caps. These usually pull off by hand, though some are stubborn. On DT Swiss 350 hubs the non-drive side end cap can be a proper fight — riders here hold it in soft jaws of a vice and lever the wheel up to free it. Once the end caps are off, the freehub body typically slides off the axle, exposing the pawls and springs (or the star ratchet rings on DT Swiss).
From there it's bearings. You'll need a bearing extractor and press kit to do it properly. There's
a decent DT Swiss H1900 rebuild video on YouTube that covers the 350-family hubs, which share the same internals.
Things worth knowing before you start:
• Shimano SLX M7110 is Microspline only, no swappable HG body available, so don't expect to change freehub standards.
• Shimano cheaper hubs are notorious for the freewheel fixing bolt stripping, so check that's not your issue first.
• The plastic washer inside SLX hubs is a known weak point and has failed under warranty for at least one member here within 700km.
• If grease has turned to dust (common on the non-drive side), you're looking at a full strip, clean, and repack.
Honest advice: if your hub is a cheap OEM unit and it's properly knackered, the consensus on here is it's often easier and not much more expensive to buy a complete new rear wheel than to source bearings, freehub internals, and tools to fix it. If it's a Hope, DT Swiss, or Shimano SLX, rebuild is worth doing.
Tell me the hub make and model and I can get specific on tools, bearing sizes, and the exact teardown order.
