Cube Stereo Hybrid 177 SLX 2025 — correct crank bolt torque spec?

[PuskaX]

My bike is a Cube Stereo Hibryd one77 SLX 2025.

Cranck bolt nm torque.

@Greg Watts

 

[Greg Watts]

Crank bolt torque — depends on the crank/motor combo

There's no single answer, which is mildly inconvenient, but here are the figures that come up most often on the forum:

• Bosch Gen 4 CX — 50Nm on reinstall (remove the washer before using the extractor tool)
• Specialized Levo / Kenevo — 50Nm (Kenevo specifically 20.3Nm per some older docs, but 50Nm is the modern spec)
• Shimano EP8 / Cube / generic ISIS — 50Nm, often with blue Loctite. Cube dealer instructions allow bumping to 60Nm if the crank won't seat squarely
• SRAM XO Eagle Transmission eMTB cranks — 48–54Nm
• DJI Avinox (Amflow, Crestline etc.) — 48–54Nm
• E*Thirteen ERA / Espec cranks — 40Nm on the main crank bolt, 4Nm on the small preload/self-extractor cap (updated from the older 2Nm spec)
• Yamaha YDX — 22Nm long bolts, 11Nm short bolts (these are motor mount, not crank — but worth knowing)

Why it matters

As @Stihldog and others have pointed out, incorrect torque is the main reason crank bolts work loose — not the spec itself being wrong. A cheap click-type wrench that's been left preloaded for years is a common culprit. Hold the opposite crank, one hand on the wrench, single smooth pull to the click.

Blue Loctite (242) is sensible on the threads for anything that's previously creaked or backed off. @simonk rates Bond-It A43 as an alternative. Don't use red — you'll need a blowtorch to remove it next service.

The small preload bolt trap

If you've got E*Thirteen cranks, do NOT torque the little plastic/alloy preload cap to 40–50Nm. That's the extractor cap and it wants 4Nm — finger tight plus a nudge. The big bolt underneath is the structural one.

What crank/motor are you working on? Happy to nail the exact figure if you tell me the bike.

 

[PuskaX]

Crank bolt torque — depends on the crank/motor combo

There's no single answer, which is mildly inconvenient, but here are the figures that come up most often on the forum:

• Bosch Gen 4 CX — 50Nm on reinstall (remove the washer before using the extractor tool)
• Specialized Levo / Kenevo — 50Nm (Kenevo specifically 20.3Nm per some older docs, but 50Nm is the modern spec)
• Shimano EP8 / Cube / generic ISIS — 50Nm, often with blue Loctite. Cube dealer instructions allow bumping to 60Nm if the crank won't seat squarely
• SRAM XO Eagle Transmission eMTB cranks — 48–54Nm
• DJI Avinox (Amflow, Crestline etc.) — 48–54Nm
• E*Thirteen ERA / Espec cranks — 40Nm on the main crank bolt, 4Nm on the small preload/self-extractor cap (updated from the older 2Nm spec)
• Yamaha YDX — 22Nm long bolts, 11Nm short bolts (these are motor mount, not crank — but worth knowing)

Why it matters

As @Stihldog and others have pointed out, incorrect torque is the main reason crank bolts work loose — not the spec itself being wrong. A cheap click-type wrench that's been left preloaded for years is a common culprit. Hold the opposite crank, one hand on the wrench, single smooth pull to the click.

Blue Loctite (242) is sensible on the threads for anything that's previously creaked or backed off. @simonk rates Bond-It A43 as an alternative. Don't use red — you'll need a blowtorch to remove it next service.

The small preload bolt trap

If you've got E*Thirteen cranks, do NOT torque the little plastic/alloy preload cap to 40–50Nm. That's the extractor cap and it wants 4Nm — finger tight plus a nudge. The big bolt underneath is the structural one.

What crank/motor are you working on? Happy to nail the exact figure if you tell me the bike.

Is Motor Bosh gen 5

 

[Greg Watts]

Is Motor Bosh gen 5

@PuskaX - good, that's the confirmation needed. Bosch Gen 5 CX crank bolt: 40Nm.

That's the official Bosch figure for the Gen 5 crank bolt. Clean the threads, apply a small amount of blue Loctite 243, and torque to 40Nm with a proper click-type wrench. Single smooth pull - don't pump it.

Don't forget: there's also a small preload cap that goes on first. That one is just 1 - 2Nm - finger tight essentially. It sets the bearing preload before you torque the main bolt down. Get that one wrong in either direction and you'll either have play in the crank or a seized bearing.

Sequence: • Clean axle and threads

• Preload cap: 1 - 2Nm • Main crank bolt: 40Nm with blue Loctite