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Mike29 said:
Nice one thanks. What would you reccomend for the Druid?
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I use Godfather's Garage E-Bike lube... E-Bike Lube 120ml whilst in Canda.

It works well enough for my Shimano powered Norco Bigfoot in the snow. Here downunder I make my own "11 secret herbs and spices" wax compound which I run on my Bafang powered SC Nomad (converted). Little to no wet weather riding. Has worked well.
 
Hookem34 said:
Longtime Forbidden Druid V2 owner and sure wish they would integrate a TQ HPR60 into that bike and keep the CorE as a 150mm bike. Avinox is cool and all, but a lighter weight system would be magical on that V2 platform.
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i got the v2 and find my core doesnt really feel the same bike. its good but def not same thing.
 
Nice one thanks! Ordered the silca lube.

Also going to replace my idler bearing anyone done there’s yet and have tried any different bearing types? Thanks
 
Mike29 said:
Nice one thanks! Ordered the silca lube.

Also going to replace my idler bearing anyone done there’s yet and have tried any different bearing types? Thanks
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Non solid lube Enduro ones in mine now. See how they last and if it's not great I'll try the SKF MTRX next time
 
Mike29 said:
Sweet cheers!! Just ordered 2 now. Was shocked as to how seized the idler was, efficiency is going to go through the roof with freshies fitted 😂
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Check to see if there's any difference with the idler bolt tightened or slightly loosened. Drag should be comparable. The solid lube bearings really don't have much more drag than a standard one. And they rarely "seize", due to their construction. You may be seeing too much lateral loading on the inner races due to a tolerance error.
 
ntm95 said:
You may be seeing too much lateral loading on the inner races due to a tolerance error.
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Can you explain how lateral loading on the inner race would cause the bearing to drag. Isn't the inner race the one that's supposed to have the bolt torqued up against it?
 
Ribinrobin said:
straight to the size charts red? :ROFLMAO:
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Interestingly, most of the geometry numbers are the same, the exception being the stack is now higher...659 for the S4.
The new Dreadie falls smack between the S3 and S4 Dread, but the stack is way higher than both.
Well be interesting to sit in the cockpit...might be akin to riding a chopper! 😋
 
Highland Wheels said:
Making a smaller bike feel bigger will be a far easier/better way than trying to accept your fate on an S4. The S4 Druid is massive tbh 😂
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Yeah, although comparing the eDread (S3 - R:461, Stack 669, top tube 619) to the eDruid (S3 - R:467, Stack 662, top tube 622), it appears the eDruid is a bit "roomier" when compared the Dreadie.

Will see what the outcome is....
 
mxh said:
Can you explain how lateral loading on the inner race would cause the bearing to drag. Isn't the inner race the one that's supposed to have the bolt torqued up against it?
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If the shim between the bearings isn't sized correctly, the inner and outer races of the bearing may not be appropriately aligned. As in, the shim thickness must precisely equal the seated gap on the bearings. Easy enough to play around with shim thickness and check drag on the bearings.
This is typically because of the bearings not fully seating due to a machining tolerance error or surface finish error, causing excessive preload on the inner races, as the spindle bolt sets a fixed lateral dimension on the inner races.
Very common issue in other stacked bearing applications.
 
ntm95 said:
If the shim between the bearings isn't sized correctly, the inner and outer races of the bearing may not be appropriately aligned. As in, the shim thickness must precisely equal the seated gap on the bearings. Easy enough to play around with shim thickness and check drag on the bearings.
This is typically because of the bearings not fully seating due to a machining tolerance error or surface finish error, causing excessive preload on the inner races, as the spindle bolt sets a fixed lateral dimension on the inner races.
Very common issue in other stacked bearing applications.
Click to expand...
Idler is the worst part of the bike. It has embarrassing drag and the bearings are practically stuck due to the incorrect bearing seat tolerance. If you remove the bearings, even with Solid Lube, they spin... if you put them back, everything jams. Embarrassing. I'm wondering if Jank Comp, Cascade, or Finesse are working on a aftermarket idler to buy it... I'm sure the difference would be impressive.
 
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