GrantMeThePower
New Member
Just curious...I did a search on the forum and it seems that everyone who mentions monolink seems to put it at low. It makes sense since the rail already climbs like a billy goat, but I was curious all the same 
Does anyone have mono-link set to the high position on their rail?
- Thread starter GrantMeThePower
- Start date
Slapbassmunky
Active member
Mines on high to get seat stay clearance for a 62.5mm shock. It's balanced out by running 170mm Zeb's.
Stray cat
Well-known member
Here another. So I can avoid better pedal strokes and the 65 head angle is enough for my. Never tried on low position tough.
BrentD
Well-known member
Running mine in high to reduce the amount of pedal strikes in technical terrain. Have never felt that 64.9 wasn't slack enough even on the steepest terrain.
Same here ?
Blue Moon
Active member
Mine came in low, switched it to high and left it alone. I’m not technical enough to really notice the difference. Sorry.Just curious...I did a search on the forum and it seems that everyone who mentions monolink seems to put it at low. It makes sense since the rail already climbs like a billy goat, but I was curious all the same
GrantMeThePower
New Member
- Thread starter
- #7
Hi Blue Moon. Mine also came in low. Why did you decide to switch it?
I started in low, went to high, then back to low. I did notice the difference when going down steep tech terrain, i think,(Maybe it was in my head haha) anyway i put it back in the low and have left it. So in summary I've got no idea what is better haha
Blue Moon
Active member
I don’t know. I looked at it, it was simple to do, flipped it and just left it. I’m on an XL 7 and I thought it’d give me more ground clearance. I guess it has but I don’t understand all that geometry “witchcraft”
Don_Singer
Member
I set mine to High to put more weight on the front wheel to improve traction while climbing. I found the front wants to rise up on steep technical terrain. Also, to decreased pedal strikes and I put a 170mm conversion in the fork which I don't think changes the geometry that much. Mostly for weight bias while climbing.
Mine came set in high , I feel no need to make it lower or slacker on my regular rides , which are quite pedaly . It’s already the most capable bike I’ve ridden
It’s not in your head that’s what exactly what the high position is supposed to do Low position = slacker geometry slower turning but more stable on extreme and steep terrain
I remember reading that originally and that's why I did it. Just really can't remember how much of a difference I actually noticed, but I seem to recall noticing it!
Mr_Price
Active member
I’ve ridden both high and low. The higher position is pretty essential for the trails I ride on. The overall experience is much better for me.
dixie600mhz
Active member
I went back and forth and settled on high. It turns a little faster but the big benefit is no pedal strikes when pedaling at high lean angles. I'm staying with it on high.
flightrisk86
Member
I thought I was in high and finally woke up and looked at the position of the link, it was low
.
Now I've put it in high - noticed - easier to do switchbacks, 60% fewer pedal strikes, handles a bit better on trails, climbs better too.
Con = a bit less playful when pointed downhill, it was more willing to loft the front wheel and stay up in low.
.Now I've put it in high - noticed - easier to do switchbacks, 60% fewer pedal strikes, handles a bit better on trails, climbs better too.
Con = a bit less playful when pointed downhill, it was more willing to loft the front wheel and stay up in low.
I did the same thing , guy in the shop when I bought mentioned it could be set in low , so I presumed it was set high as standard and didn’t really check .I thought I was in high and finally woke up and looked at the position of the link, it was low
Now I've put it in high - noticed - easier to do switchbacks, 60% fewer pedal strikes, handles a bit better on trails, climbs better too.
Con = a bit less playful when pointed downhill, it was more willing to loft the front wheel and stay up in low.
My Rail 9.7 was delivered in Low and this is how it's stayed up until now. I just switched to High but have not spent any time on it yet in this position. My initial pedal strikes were just slightly annoying. However, now that I'm riding the bike a bit harder, I have experienced pedal drag through rolling terrain even with my feet positioned at 3 & 9 (no excessive sag amount for my setup but I did move to a 60mm stroke shock). Also, I felt the wheel flop was a bit much so I'm hoping that will be slightly reduced now too.
Richiefromboston
Active member
Whats the real advantage of running a mullet setup? Ive never ridden one, nor would I need to as Im no pro or even expert. But looking at my build you wouldnt know that. Ihave a habit of making really good much beter much better means($$$$) no wife no kids so I build rad shiite
Technically, the geometry isn’t the same…
The head and seat angles will be slacker, the BB is lower and the reach is shorter.
Running the Minolink in high doesn’t fully compensate for the drop in wheel size.
IMO, mullet is nicer through the turns but looses out on the climbs; if you’re one of those freaks who likes climbing up WC DH courses you won’t like it. I found running 27.5 at both ends was better than Mullet; it brings all the geo except BB height back to stock so it climbs like the stock bike but corners better. Pedal strikes can be a bit of an issue until you get used to it though.
The head and seat angles will be slacker, the BB is lower and the reach is shorter.
Running the Minolink in high doesn’t fully compensate for the drop in wheel size.
IMO, mullet is nicer through the turns but looses out on the climbs; if you’re one of those freaks who likes climbing up WC DH courses you won’t like it. I found running 27.5 at both ends was better than Mullet; it brings all the geo except BB height back to stock so it climbs like the stock bike but corners better. Pedal strikes can be a bit of an issue until you get used to it though.
Doug Stampfer
Well-known member
Gotta ask what bike you'd go for now in hindsight since the 29 rail is not for you? For me the Merida looks good.
I honestly don’t know, something designed to be a Mullet I suspect, but I wouldn’t say the Rail is not good for me. In any guise it’s way more capable than I’ll ever be. I was bored and had most of the parts required already so just got fiddling.
I thought the Decoy was going to be my next bike but I didn’t like the Shimano motor. Felt gutless after the Bosch.
The Whyte E180RS V1 was going to be my next bike before the boss saw the price…
The latest Levo looks good, but come on, seriously? £13k for a bicycle???
The Ken SL is a thing of beauty but is massively overpriced and underpowered for the riding I do.
The Siryon was hugely appealing but still doesn’t actually exist yet and Forestal is making YT look efficient.
I thought the Decoy was going to be my next bike but I didn’t like the Shimano motor. Felt gutless after the Bosch.
The Whyte E180RS V1 was going to be my next bike before the boss saw the price…
The latest Levo looks good, but come on, seriously? £13k for a bicycle???
The Ken SL is a thing of beauty but is massively overpriced and underpowered for the riding I do.
The Siryon was hugely appealing but still doesn’t actually exist yet and Forestal is making YT look efficient.
I’ve got to drop the bars on the mullet spec and see if that fixes the understeer. It definitely rolls over obstacles better on the 29er front so it’s worth experimenting to see if I can fix the problem.
I’ve been pondering a longer shock to get the geo back to stock but that’s an avenue I can’t afford to explore. Offset bushes aren’t designed to be used that way round so a couple of big clumsy hits could see the rear offset the wrong way…
I’ve been pondering a longer shock to get the geo back to stock but that’s an avenue I can’t afford to explore. Offset bushes aren’t designed to be used that way round so a couple of big clumsy hits could see the rear offset the wrong way…
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