Clik Valves

DaveMatthews

DaveMatthews

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Just bought a set of Clik Valves
clikvalve.com

Clik Valve Hi-Flow Cores for Presta Stems

High-flow quick-connect valve cores for Presta stems. Durable brass construction with excellent airflow. Easy installation for tubeless bike setups. Compatible with all Clik systems.
clikvalve.com clikvalve.com

The Presta valves always seem to need a tool to loosen every week, even though I only ever finger tighten after adding air.
It will be interesting to see how these do...
 
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I was tempted by these when I saw an ad. for them by Schwalbe (who also offer them for Dunlop valves) but then I thought about it and:- I already have one of those little screw on adaptors to use a car valve (AV) pump or air at a filling station and my wifes Cube came with AV valves anyway. So I would not want to permanently adapt my home pump or the emergency compressed air cannistor thingy and that little screw on adaptor would no longer work, I would still an adaptor but a different one!
I am no fan of the Presta valves but I'm not sure the click valves are the solution, better to convert to AV valved tubes when possible imho.

Schwalbe version

and a retrofit kit including adaptor for AV pumps etc.
 
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Looked at Clik valves but didn't want to mess with pump adapters etc.

Instead bought Muc-Off Big Bore Lite valves which are Presta pump etc. compatible. Didn't use the valve stems, simply screwed the valve parts onto our existing Presta stems which at 40mm are pretty short. Look fine, easy to use, and no air loss. (y)
 
It looks like a nice innovation but it is a protected patent, cork are just awful. I would only consider it if, maintstream and open patent.

I understand some people face stuck, bent presta valve, etc (happened 1 or 2 times in decade and you just need to replace the valve core)

But the real solution would have been to ask brands to use shrader for mtb, not going again into something new.

Suspensions already use shrader with way bigger pressure and it is just way more robust, failed to see why we should not use it back.
 
DaveMatthews said:
Just bought a set of Clik Valves
clikvalve.com

Clik Valve Hi-Flow Cores for Presta Stems

High-flow quick-connect valve cores for Presta stems. Durable brass construction with excellent airflow. Easy installation for tubeless bike setups. Compatible with all Clik systems.
clikvalve.com clikvalve.com

The Presta valves always seem to need a tool to loosen every week, even though I only ever finger tighten after adding air.
It will be interesting to see how these do...
Click to expand...
These look good, not come across them before, useful for the compressor seating.
 
whitymon said:
It looks like a nice innovation but it is a protected patent, cork are just awful. I would only consider it if, maintstream and open patent.

I understand some people face stuck, bent presta valve, etc (happened 1 or 2 times in decade and you just need to replace the valve core)

But the real solution would have been to ask brands to use shrader for mtb, not going again into something new.

Suspensions already use shrader with way bigger pressure and it is just way more robust, failed to see why we should not use it back.
Click to expand...
The main advantages of the Muc-Off Big Bore Lite valves for us are:

1. Simple retrofit without the need to change valve stems.

2. Don't jam up with sealant (not so far (with Muc-Off sealant)).

3. Can inject sealant through valves when changing tyres and when topping up sealant.

4. Compatible with our existing pumps.

5. If valve is damaged, in an emergency can insert a standard Presta core.

YMMV.
 
irie said:
The main advantages of the Muc-Off Big Bore Lite valves for us are:

1. Simple retrofit without the need to change valve stems.

2. Don't jam up with sealant (not so far (with Muc-Off sealant)).

3. Can inject sealant through valves when changing tyres and when topping up sealant.

4. Compatible with our existing pumps.

5. If valve is damaged, in an emergency can insert a standard Presta core.

YMMV.
Click to expand...
Not sure about point 3? Currently I am removing the valve core on presta without any fuzz to add sealant with a syringe, how muc-off would be better for me, I really have zero issue with that.

Yeah you can dig the metal pin to level the amount of sealant not sure I have ever need its use, I just put some at nearly fixed interval, it is not like it's something that would varies much for me. Not like oil car :D

The only time I had issue with jam sealant in a core was with MucOff product and storing the bike during a long time valve core in a peculiar position. Since 2022 with Stans and adequate storage, I never ever had such issue.

When I see big bore muc-off I see zero plus to me, more marketing.
 
whitymon said:
Not sure about point 3? Currently I am removing the valve core on presta without any fuzz to add sealant with a syringe, how muc-off would be better for me, I really have zero issue with that.

Yeah you can dig the metal pin to level the amount of sealant not sure I have ever need its use, I just put some at nearly fixed interval, it is not like it's something that would varies much for me. Not like oil car :D

The only time I had issue with jam sealant in a core was with MucOff product and storing the bike during a long time valve core in a peculiar position. Since 2022 with Stans and adequate storage, I never ever had such issue.

When I see big bore muc-off I see zero plus to me, more marketing.
Click to expand...
As I said, YMMV ... which it obviously does.
ban-cha.gif
 
Been on the Click valves since just before Xmas. Absolutely love them.

Checking tyre pressure and adding more air if necessary is much better than with Presta and I would argue better than Schraeder (car) too.

With Presta and Schraeder you are trying to make a seal between the pump head and a sharp thread. This inherently is inclined to leak (through the thread) and by wiggling to the side as you try to clamp on a fairly short length of thread. The thread also slowly chews up the rubber seal. You also have the extra step of tightening (or screwing on) the pump head.

I haven't seen any coverage of this but the Click valve seals on the INSIDE of the valve. A stainless thin walled tube (like a giant hypodermic needle) goes down inside the Click valve and is sealed by an O-ring; whilst the outside clips on to keep it down.
As well as sealing perfectly (very quickly) this also stays on without any supervision even if you are pumping like crazy with both hands on the track pump.

It may sound trivial, but the time saved:-
1. Unscrewing a valve cap, (which you have to do with both Presta and Schraeder and Muc-Off and Fillmore etc etc)
2. and (in the case of presta) unscrewing the valve itself.
3. Screwing on or toggling the lever of the pump head.
4. Keeping the pump relatively steady so that the pump head doesn't leak on the valve.
5. Unscrewing or removing pump head.
6. (in the case of presta etc) re-tightening the valve itself.
7. Re-screwing valve cap on.

Which is now just:-
1. Pull cap off.
2. Push pump head on.
(pump without worrying about head coming loose)
3. Pull pump head off.
4. Push cap back on.

Is really noticeable. (though I do have 2 valves to check on each wheel so this was always more of a pain for me than most people)

It is also nice that whatever pressure I get on the pump it seems like there is zero leakage when disconnecting so I feel confident the pressure is spot on.

I was also pleasantly surprised that my existing Presta mini-pump and Topeak D2 digital gauge work on them with zero issues.

100% recommend.
 
G-Sport said:
Been on the Click valves since just before Xmas. Absolutely love them.

Checking tyre pressure and adding more air if necessary is much better than with Presta and I would argue better than Schraeder (car) too.

With Presta and Schraeder you are trying to make a seal between the pump head and a sharp thread. This inherently is inclined to leak (through the thread) and by wiggling to the side as you try to clamp on a fairly short length of thread. The thread also slowly chews up the rubber seal. You also have the extra step of tightening (or screwing on) the pump head.

I haven't seen any coverage of this but the Click valve seals on the INSIDE of the valve. A stainless thin walled tube (like a giant hypodermic needle) goes down inside the Click valve and is sealed by an O-ring; whilst the outside clips on to keep it down.
As well as sealing perfectly (very quickly) this also stays on without any supervision even if you are pumping like crazy with both hands on the track pump.

It may sound trivial, but the time saved:-
1. Unscrewing a valve cap, (which you have to do with both Presta and Schraeder and Muc-Off and Fillmore etc etc)
2. and (in the case of presta) unscrewing the valve itself.
3. Screwing on or toggling the lever of the pump head.
4. Keeping the pump relatively steady so that the pump head doesn't leak on the valve.
5. Unscrewing or removing pump head.
6. (in the case of presta etc) re-tightening the valve itself.
7. Re-screwing valve cap on.

Which is now just:-
1. Pull cap off.
2. Push pump head on.
(pump without worrying about head coming loose)
3. Pull pump head off.
4. Push cap back on.

Is really noticeable. (though I do have 2 valves to check on each wheel so this was always more of a pain for me than most people)

It is also nice that whatever pressure I get on the pump it seems like there is zero leakage when disconnecting so I feel confident the pressure is spot on.

I was also pleasantly surprised that my existing Presta mini-pump and Topeak D2 digital gauge work on them with zero issues.

100% recommend.
Click to expand...
Brilliant!
Exactly what I was hoping to hear/experience. Hopefully mine will be here on Tuesday.
 
I assume a standard car (Schraeder valve) pressure guage is not compatible with Click valves, so how to get an accurate pressure reading? OK I accept the same applies to Presta and Dunlop valves but with Schraders (AV) all is sweet:cool:
 
I can’t see any issue with pumping and remove the pump that would leak air.
I put more than I want all the time then use a Topeak gauge for precision psi.

For the rest written above click looks cool
 
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Well this is interesting...
The Clik valves showed up today. Wasn't expecting them until next week according to tracking.
But... the surprise is that they shipped the pump adaptor head with them, which I did not order!
Lucky bonus day for me! Might not be until the weekend until I try this all out and convert the Presta cores, but big grin on my face anyway!

 
For what it's worth, the Clik cores are made in Italy, and oddly, packaged in Taiwan. The caps snap on snugly, so I suspect they'll stay on no worries.
The Pump adaptor head is made in Taiwan. It is aluminum and very nicely machined/made. You can use it on different pump types.
Can't wait to try them out!

 
I think you’re gonna like them! The more I use them the happier I am with them - just really convenient and I’ve found that they lose less air than Presta (my tire pressure on my road bike drops far less overnight with these).
 
LA_Stu said:
I think you’re gonna like them! The more I use them the happier I am with them - just really convenient and I’ve found that they lose less air than Presta (my tire pressure on my road bike drops far less overnight with these).
Click to expand...
Cheers Stu!
They make a lot of sense to me, so I'm really looking forward to them. Your experience has helped me feel really good about the decision.
 
Mine showed up too, also sooner than expected and with some extras.

I never minded Presta valves but my partner has been in an endless cycle of using pliers and bending them.

It’s awesome when an inexpensive product exceeds expectations!

I noticed my presta floor pump works fine without the adapter, but my meiser analog pressure gauge doesn’t read accurately. I bought cliks gauge. FYI!
 
Emailsucks98 said:
Mine showed up too, also sooner than expected and with some extras.

I never minded Presta valves but my partner has been in an endless cycle of using pliers and bending them.

It’s awesome when an inexpensive product exceeds expectations!

I noticed my presta floor pump works fine without the adapter, but my meiser analog pressure gauge doesn’t read accurately. I bought cliks gauge. FYI!
Click to expand...
Awesome! Looking forward to your experiences!
 
DaveMatthews said:
For what it's worth, the Clik cores are made in Italy, and oddly, packaged in Taiwan.
Click to expand...
The valves and retrofit kits are available from several online shops here in Europe but I have not found any sign of a compatible pressure guage , not even on Amazon, except on the Click Valve website (only available in English and Chinese) priced in USD$, which also seems odd for a product made in Italy.
 
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