Cassette fell off

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toerag69

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Was attempting a brake bleed and when taking off my rear wheel the cassette fell off.

I have inserted cassette back on however when I tighten it with a cassette tool it dosent tighten it, casette remains free to move.

Unsure if I am just not using enough strength of if I am doing something wrong.

Help appreciated.
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Half of your freehub is stuck in the cassette! At a guess, you've lost a retaining circlip or a nut holding the body to the rest of the freehub. What does the cassette look like from the other side? Can you push the freehub out of the cassette?
 
Oh no 😠Cannot push the free hub out of cassette too firm. Thanks

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Use your lock nut tool & chain whip to undo the locking nut on the cassette and go from there. You might be able to do that as is or you can put the cassette back on the bike & try it that way.

Ultimately, you need to remove the freehub body from the cassette & reseat it on to the freehub AND lock it on so it can't happen again. You are definitely missing something off your freehub to allow this to happen first place.
 
RickBullotta said:
That's normal behavior on some hubs. Push it back onto the axle and hub body - you might need to rotate it a bit to get the pawls to engage. Nothing to be concerned about.
Click to expand...
Ah, I bow to Rick's knowledge, let's hope it just pushes back on. (y)
 
It’s not necessary abnormal. Which hub is that?

Rotate the cassette counterclockwise at the same time you push it back to help folding the pawls.

As mentioned before some dt swiss for instance work like that, very handy two swap the cassette between two wheelset with the same hub actually :)
 
With only 158 miles on my new Whyte T130C RS (mtb, not emtb), I removed the rear wheel and the cassette fell on to the floor! I had a word with the dealer, sent photos etc and they couldn't see what was wrong. Took the bike in and they said that the hub shaft had sheared clean through. Within a week the bike was returned with a steel shaft instead of the alloy one that had failed. It must have been a standard component for the lower spec build bikes to enable such a fast turnaround. It looked like Whyte had gone one step too far in weight reduction and fitted an alloy shaft.

My notes from that time:
@ 158m. The rear hub axle has sheared clean through! Only discovered when I removed the rear wheel and the whole cassette fell onto the floor. The QR axle is badly scored where the hub axle sheared. Warranty claim. Why did it fail? Check the dropout alignment (spot on). Check the Maxle diameter, (fine, not tapered). Check whether the cassette was properly secured (yes).​
​
One week later. The complete freehub has been replaced and all bearings, seals, pawls springs etc. The hub axle is now steel (painted black). The Maxle was also replaced and was reset to give the correct clamping force.​
 
I took wheel off my Cairn gravel ebike last week and that happened. Just cleaned it and put it back on. I know you can pop whole thing off but usually takes a bit of elbow grease.
 
I find that a bit strange. I have DT Swiss 350 hubs all with DT Swiss ratchet rather than pawl freehubs. The freehub mechanism is held onto the axle with an end cap. The cassette removal tool is inserted over the end cap and cassete removed. The frrehub mechanism is retained on the axle by the end cap. That end cap invariably needs a specifc procedure to remove it ...which consists of sitting the wheel over a vice with the end cap held in soft jaws in the vice, and the wheel then sharply levered up.
 
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