Carbon fiber wheels: Waste of money or totally worth it?

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Could be this one:
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Considering the delicate DT Swiss HXC 1200 carbon wheels, this is a dangerous combination for heavy or aggressive riders.
No real evidence there I can see.
 
I just bought a set of Enve 730 with i9 hydra today for my Levo SL. Will give some feedback after I have had a chance to ride on them over the next few weeks.
I googled this . "690 points of engagement, or 0.52° at the crank" . Nice


 
Very noisy though sounds like a jet aeroplane at full pelt, I believe you can change the lubrication to make them quieter.
 
If you use the right grease it does not cause problems using a lot more than the meagre smear often recommended in guidance videos....and it makes it quieter. I use dt swiss grease.
 
Can you link me the article?

Sure Rob

Notice they are 27.5, supposed to be more stiff


The CONWAY XYRON 927 Carbon on the trail
Although the CONWAY XYRON 927 Carbon is rather compact, the pedalling position is stretched even for tall riders. This is not due to a long front triangle, but because of the low front end in combination with the super-wide 820 mm handlebar pulling the rider forward. While this stretched position isn’t the most comfortable on long rides over flat terrain, it pays off on steep climbs. With so much weight on the front wheel, it never wants to lift and you can stay on track no matter how winding and tight the climb gets. All the while, the 2.6″ wide Schwalbe Hans Dampf tires and the rear suspension generate enough traction to transfer the Bosch’s 75 Nm to the ground. Incidentally, we don’t recommend running the tire pressures too low to avoid damaging the delicate carbon rims of the DT-Swiss HXC 1200 wheelset.


 
High Rock Ruti

I deleted carbon rims from the Rail 9.8 saved $600 in less than month had a dent in the side of the rim 1/4 inch deep. The carbon rims come with a two year warranty, that's right I need another warranty claim. Pinch flat a tire put a hole through the casing and bend the rim, patch the tire and use a pair of pliers to straighten out the rim, Carbon.....rim?
 
Nope not a dentist actually own a software development company.

I have also put all Axs on it too, still not a dentist.

do you ride a Giant by any chance?
 
I've never ridden a MTB with carbon fiber wheels, let alone an EMTB.

I have however gone from aluminum wheels on my Aprilia motorcycle to carbon fiber wheels, and the difference is astounding. The motorcycle wants to almost fall in to every corner and takes hardly any effort to lean.

Of course that's a motorcycle and this is an EMTB.

But that begs the question, are there any noticeable gains to be had from a good set of carbon fiber wheels for an EMTB, or are the gains dismal at best?

Just trying to see if this is a worthwhile upgrade to pursue. In other words, are the differences night and day, or just very subtle?
The lighter weight will help in cornering transitions. The current offerings tend to have a stiffer ride/feel. If you like a low pressure DH tire ride, the hot setup is carbon front, aluminum rear. Stick with a 30mm I.D. rim either way.
 
the dentists choice??

Is it ok to change my answer ? i am a dentist and would like to do an oral checkup for you. :)
 
As someone who has over the years used most brands of carbon wheels, and broken every single one of them, I would say no, they arn't worth it, in my opinion.

I have a few sets of good DT Swiss based wheels (240 Hubs, 481/511 rims, XM1501's etc) all of which have substantially outlasted every carbon wheel i've tried.

Not to mention they ride better. I race a reasonable amount & am quite particular to wheel & tyre setup. Carbon is very direct, which is probably a good thing on the road & even XC, but for the usual type of riding & racing I do (gravity based) they have a harshness which translates to a poorer ride quality. On choppy terrain the lack of flex causes the wheel to skip, rather than flex & stay grounded, which translates to a lack of grip. Also really notice it on off camber sections when you are fighting to hold a line, the stiffness can cause the bike to 'ping' rather than flex & hold.

Also if i've travelled half way across Europe to race, and crack a carbon rim mid practice or on a stage, the chances are i'm not finishing out the day.

Decent aluminium wheelset is lighter than most carbon anyway. Save your money.
 
@Rob Hancill its no Dt Swiss ... carbon fiber for enduro it’s not a good idea.



You know what’s the weight difference between alloy and carbon rims? 100 grms per hop

Dont let them fool you when you see wheelsets the weight comes from the spokes the hubs and the hop, so If you see a 2 kgs alloy wheels and the a 1.6 carbon set surely you think “oh the carbon” ... the carbon alone is 200 grs, that might matters on a normal bike on a XC course but on a ebike for enduro?

When you think crack don’t think black, when you ear crack think carbon and the CIA

0:49

 
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Yes but haven’t ridden the bike since they were put on, hopefully in the next couple of weeks.

work has picked since Covid lockdown was lifted.
 
@Rob Hancill its no Dt Swiss ... carbon fiber for enduro it’s not a good idea.



You know what’s the weight difference between alloy and carbon rims? 100 grms per hop

Dont let them fool you when you see wheelsets the weight comes from the spokes the hubs and the hop, so If you see a 2 kgs alloy wheels and the a 1.6 carbon set surely you think “oh the carbon” ... the carbon alone is 200 grs, that might matters on a normal bike on a XC course but on a ebike for enduro?

When you think crack don’t think black, when you ear crack think carbon and the CIA

0:49


I stopped reading that link when they said "E13 has become one of the most proven and trustworthy brands in the industry" Have they even spoke to E13 customers lol
 
I bought carbon rimmed wheels in '13. An Easton ad that said something about having a 2 year no questions asked warranty sold me into investing in a set. Still using it... doesn't do anything magic, like lean easier. It just is convenient cause it's UST. I'm using some boost conversion kit that consists of 3 spacers (2 for end caps, and 1 for brake rotor). Still using 10 speed too. Running a DH tire on the back to preserve it, with cushcore + snake skin tire up front.
 
Hmm not sure - maybe something else on the Merida is reducing it.

My understanding was that all DT Swiss Hybrid wheels were 150KG rated. It refers to 150KG a few times here:DT Swiss - Mission Hybrid

FR 560 rated 140 Kg and E bike rim 150 Kg . I was looking at DT swiss rims last night .


DT Swiss FR560 32H 30mm 27.5" Recommended System Weight Max: 140 kg . DT Swiss HX531 36H 30mm 27.5" (650B) E-Bike Rim Recommended System Weight Max: 150 kg

Had a good look and comparison . The two rims have same internal diameter but different shape profiles .
 
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Ive tried a few different carbon rims over the years, and IMO its not the right material to use for a rim if you're going to be hammering it hard over rocks etc. I've now switched back to alu rims because I kept breaking the carbon rims, for me there was no performance benefit, but they were significantly less durable than much cheaper aluminium rims. I've never damaged an aluminium rim so much that it cant continue to be used, but I have destroyed carbon rims.

There's no absolute black and white though and it depends on how you ride, where you ride, what you ride etc , I can see that some people might prefer carbon rims, but for me I wouldnt consider them.
 
I bought a set of Nobl rims TR37 for my SL. I had them built with Sapim Xrays with 240 exp hubs. They are worth it imo with a lifetime warranty. I bought them to test whether there would be a noticeable difference. Previous bike has DT Swiss H1700 and the SL with Rovals. The performance was much better with the carbon wheels. It wasn't the weight as precise handling. Example: Regular trail with a drop and then 90° between tree and fall away to a lake. I gained a new line coming out the inside line at speed rather than slowing and hitting the outside line. I will be calling Nobl to configure a set for the full Levo as well.
 
Good for normal XC bikes, but breakable rather than bendable and too much money for the difference on a typical eMTB.
 
Good for normal XC bikes, but breakable rather than bendable and too much money for the difference on a typical eMTB.
Totally respectfully disagree - I have Nobl TR41's and I find them very precise in the handling and they have been very strong. I smash them through the toughest of rocky terrain, jump them at bike park jump lines and in general ride them hard and they have been nothing short of amazing in terms of bike feel and responsiveness. I am trying to figure out a way to come up with the funds to put them on my DH (non-eMTB) as the feel is that good and I trust their strength.
 
Totally respectfully disagree - I have Nobl TR41's and I find them very precise in the handling and they have been very strong. I smash them through the toughest of rocky terrain, jump them at bike park jump lines and in general ride them hard and they have been nothing short of amazing in terms of bike feel and responsiveness. I am trying to figure out a way to come up with the funds to put them on my DH (non-eMTB) as the feel is that good and I trust their strength.

You have a weight for the set on Nobl TR41's and which hubs did you go with?
 
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