Levo Gen 3 bottle cage bolts seized

[rzr]

well... bottle cage bolts seized and stripped, even after cutting them (making a slot) I still can't rotate them...

that element looks full plastic .. (unless there are steel inserts :/ )
to remove it, will I have to remove dropper post cable from it as well? looks like even maybe a motor?? (to route the cable)

anyone had a problem with those bolts? (I guess too much electrolytes)

 

[RustyIron]

Sounds like you've got it figured out this time around. In the future, all aluminum, stainless, and titanium fasteners should have anti-seize applied before assembly. Since a jar will last decades, you might as well use it on steel fasteners, as well.

 

[Stihldog]

Not an easy spot to access for the correct tool or technique. You may have to sacrifice the bottle holder in order to expose the threads. A small blast of WD40 may help dissolve the oxidation and eventually loosen the grip in 24hrs.

You may be able to get a better grip on that screw also with some pliers and not damage the paint on the down tube.
Good luck

 

[steve_sordy]

This might be worth a try.

Use a soldering iron, one with a small point. Use it to heat up the bolt by inserting the point into/onto the top of the bolt. You are going to have to use trial and error because I can't give you a time - temperature curve to work from. The idea is to heat up whatever is lodged between the bolt and the thread it's screwed into. The heat may weaken its hold.

I got this idea from when I was drilling a pilot hole into a bolt to make way for an extraction tool. Suddenly the bolt came free. The bolt was too hot to touch in any sort of way, but not instant blister hot. It may have sizzled in water.

 

[rzr]

well... for sure i'm cutting bolts, even with a slot and pliers i'm not able to remove them.
That's why i've asked what's beneath ? cuz it looks like dropper cable goes thru holes in the cable holder ... so I need to remove the cable, to remove/change the holder as well ? ...

Sounds like you've got it figured out this time around. In the future, all aluminum, stainless, and titanium fasteners should have anti-seize applied before assembly

This should be known for Specialized (or shop?) whoever put those screws there ...

 

[RustyIron]

I got this idea from when I was drilling a pilot hole into a bolt to make way for an extraction tool. Suddenly the bolt came free. The bolt was too hot to touch in any sort of way, but not instant blister hot.

Right on. This is exactly why everyone needs a set of left-handed drill bits. Many times the screw will just come right out. The downside is that you can jam up and break your drill when the screw starts coming out.

 

[rzr]

one bolt came out (not on the picture), second snapped - the one in a wrench.

you have to disconnect seatpost, I hope only this and i'll able to guide the cable back

 

[skizzian]

are the screws aluminium? they have stuck in those brass bushes like shit on a blanket

 

[rzr]

are the screws aluminium? they have stuck in those brass bushes like shit on a blanket

yes, i think alu. i was able to remove one, and i drilled second

 

[skizzian]

yes, i think alu. i was able to remove one, and i drilled second

thumbs up to that.
I put some Aluminium valve caps on my car a month ago, I had to file and hacksaw one of them off today, the aluminium oxide just totally seized it up - no way it was coming off without being split