Bosch power chewing up chains and cassettes

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Bosch powered ebike chewing up chains and cassettes twice replaced in 5000km. Mechanic states it is because of the narrower gears and chains on the 12 speed. Thoughts please?
 
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Bosch powered ebike chewing up chains and cassettes twice replaced in 5000km. Mechanic states it is because of the narrower gears and chains on the 12 speed. Thoughts please?
So a chain and cassette lasts about 2,500km = 1,500 miles?

Rule of thumb is to change the cassette after the third chain is worn out (ie past "max wear point").

Perhaps your chain is not being changed frequently enough and so destroys the cassette?

What conditions are you riding in and what is your bike and transmission?
 
I have XX1 chain on my bike 1250 miles and was just starting to creep past 0.75 changed it out for a new chain and its running like new. I do not have a strick cleaning routine just occasionally crean degrease and oil when needed.

Hopefully I will get 3 chains out of the cassette. CX gen 5 motor.
 
I just changed both of our Trek Rail drivetrains at 1,000 miles : the Chain, cassette, jockey wheels and front chain ring.

I'll be fitting a new chain every 300-400 miles now to reduce wear on the more expensive cassette
 
2500 KM per cassette and chain... yea, seems par of the course with ebikes. Though generally you should get 2-3 chains per cassette, as long as you replace the chain early enough. At first signs of 0.5% wear.

I just wore out a 12spd Deore chain in 230 miles on a Bosch CX bike.
 
1. As long as you buy a quality chain, you will do better than economising by buying cheap chains. Not only will your chain last longer, but because it lasts longer, so will the rest of your drive train. A worn chain acts like mechanical AIDS; it spreads the wear to everything it touches.
2. Measure the length of your chain on a regular basis to keep an eye on it. Once it starts to go, it and everything else it touches can go rapidly. You can use gauges, but they are too imprecise (OK/Scrap). But I prefer to remove the chain and measure over 100 links (50"). The amount over 50" is the wear. Over that disstance a metal tape measure used properly is very accurate.
 
Bosch powered ebike chewing up chains and cassettes twice replaced in 5000km. Mechanic states it is because of the narrower gears and chains on the 12 speed. Thoughts please?
Welcome to e-bikes.

News flash.... They burn through drive trains and rear tires.

2500km is good.

I suggest changing to 11 speed link glide. Its cheap as chips, works and you would break the bank when you need to replace a cassette or chain......
 
Bosch powered ebike chewing up chains and cassettes twice replaced in 5000km. Mechanic states it is because of the narrower gears and chains on the 12 speed. Thoughts please?
What cassette, what chain?
 
Bosch powered ebike chewing up chains and cassettes twice replaced in 5000km. Mechanic states it is because of the narrower gears and chains on the 12 speed. Thoughts please?
This is a Bosch Performance Line CX @ 85NM of torque. I have the same motor in a similar bike but only 10 speed with a much longer chain/cassette life span. Riden mostly on rail trails at average 20 kph so mainly in higher gears - I’m easy on my bikes as I just need to enjoy the ride without torturing them. BTW 2 chains and 2 cassettes within 5000km becomes expensive cycling. Chain well maintained cleaned, lubed etc. also consider that in Australia e-bikes are governed to 25km after that you’re on your own steam on a very heavy bike. Time to go back to acoustic?
 
This is a Bosch Performance Line CX @ 85NM of torque. I have the same motor in a similar bike but only 10 speed with a much longer chain/cassette life span. Riden mostly on rail trails at average 20 kph so mainly in higher gears - I’m easy on my bikes as I just need to enjoy the ride without torturing them. BTW 2 chains and 2 cassettes within 5000km becomes expensive cycling. Chain well maintained cleaned, lubed etc. also consider that in Australia e-bikes are governed to 25km after that you’re on your own steam on a very heavy bike. Time to go back to acoustic?
the bosch release in the next month will include a 45kmph limit in select markets... not sure about aus.
 
This is a Bosch Performance Line CX @ 85NM of torque. I have the same motor in a similar bike but only 10 speed with a much longer chain/cassette life span. Riden mostly on rail trails at average 20 kph so mainly in higher gears - I’m easy on my bikes as I just need to enjoy the ride without torturing them. BTW 2 chains and 2 cassettes within 5000km becomes expensive cycling. Chain well maintained cleaned, lubed etc. also consider that in Australia e-bikes are governed to 25km after that you’re on your own steam on a very heavy bike. Time to go back to acoustic?
We are still waiting your chain/cassete specs, not interested your motor.
 
On my previous bike wich had the slx 12 speed casette with xtr chain and axs group I've only had 2 casettes on 11k km.

1st casette I rotated xt and slx chains with a wax drip lube that lasted me over 5000km.
Seccond casette I used 1 xtr chain and that lasted me the same milage. It snapped at the end but wasn't weared out.

With those casettes I changed the smallest sprockets 2 times.

Use effetto mariposa flower power wax all year round from dust to pure mud season
 
We are still waiting your chain/cassete specs, not interested your moto

  • Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore M6100, 12-speed
  • Cassette: Shimano CS-M6100, 10-51T (10-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-33-39-45-51T)
  • Chain: Shimano CN-M6100
  • Crankset: Samox, 165 mm (e-MTB)
  • Chainring: Samox 36T
  • Freehub Body: Shimano HG spline [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

IMG_7289.webp
 
Changed XT Cassette (now M8200, former M8100) and XT Chain at 2100 km. Derailleur changed from XT mechanical to XT Di2 approx. 400 km earlier.

Mondraker Crafty R, 120 Nm now, 100Nm since Update release date before.


Kette_Ritzel_aktuell.webpMondraker_Crafty_aktuell.webp
 
  • Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore M6100, 12-speed
  • Cassette: Shimano CS-M6100, 10-51T (10-12-14-16-18-21-24-28-33-39-45-51T)
  • Chain: Shimano CN-M6100
  • Crankset: Samox, 165 mm (e-MTB)
  • Chainring: Samox 36T
  • Freehub Body: Shimano HG spline [1, 2, 3, 4, 5]

View attachment 187366
My son has the same gearing on his eMTB and I changed everything at 800 miles.
In the future, i'll be changing the chain more regularly (300 to 400 miles) to prolong the life of the cassette and front chain ring.
 
- Check your chain using a chain gauge. Replace early. MUCH cheaper than new drive train.

- dial down "dynamics". This is how fast your motor comes online. Same power, same assistance, but it doesn't spike

- keep chain somewhat clean. Sand ...well... sands off your teeth
 
1. As long as you buy a quality chain, you will do better than economising by buying cheap chains. Not only will your chain last longer, but because it lasts longer, so will the rest of your drive train. A worn chain acts like mechanical AIDS; it spreads the wear to everything it touches.
2. Measure the length of your chain on a regular basis to keep an eye on it. Once it starts to go, it and everything else it touches can go rapidly. You can use gauges, but they are too imprecise (OK/Scrap). But I prefer to remove the chain and measure over 100 links (50"). The amount over 50" is the wear. Over that disstance a metal tape measure used properly is very accurate.
The very best way IMHO to measure chain wear without the need to remove the chain from the bike (new connector link) and equivalent to measuring with a rule, is this tool from Abbey Bike Tools LL Chain Wear Tool
Very expensive (for what it is) BUT easy to use and deadly accurate on ALL chains (Flattop has larger diameter rollers)
 
the bosch release in the next month will include a 45kmph limit in select markets... not sure about aus.

I've stated too many times that I support Class 1 standards, in the USA anyways.

That said, if the power is the same I'd like to have a higher top speed for jumps and road transfers. It's a bummer to have no assistance in the top 2-3 gears if you have any cadence at all.
 
If you are using the stock settings, changing a chain that often is pretty normal. I'll get more but I mostly ride pretty detuned and in the lowest mode as well. No idea which cassette you use but the Deore is all steel.

Also, just steady torque does not stretch the chain unusually. It is the bursts of torque that do....like suddenly accelerating up a steep slope.
 
The very best way IMHO to measure chain wear without the need to remove the chain from the bike (new connector link) and equivalent to measuring with a rule, is this tool from Abbey Bike Tools LL Chain Wear Tool
Very expensive (for what it is) BUT easy to use and deadly accurate on ALL chains (Flattop has larger diameter rollers)
Is that^^^ any more accurate than Park Tool CC-2 Chain Checker, and if so how much more accurate? I always take more than one reading with the PT CC-2 on different parts of the chain.
 
I have chain checkers and neither is particularly accurate on modern SRAM chains. I find the best way is just to remove the possibly worn chain and hold it next to a brand-new chain, and the wear becomes very obvious in this case.
 
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