I'm pretty sure they are all aluminum. I have a 9.7 with a carbon front frame and my battery cover is definitely aluminum and it feels fairly heavy. It has long aluminum rails running down each side that run into the battery grooves. I thought I read somewhere that it is about 400 grams, almost a pound!! Seems like a good place to drop some unnecessary weight.
Still waiting for feedback from the testers of the 3D printed bracket done with PETG. If required, there are other options to strengten this 3D print, I would try first prior going the Fibre Filaments. Besides the higher price for carbon filament, it's abrasive, requires special nozzle and preparation. Better strength is not a given in all cases. Here is a good overview, if you are interested: Prusa Material Table | Prusa Knowledge Base
I think you’re right. I’ve searched the interweb on my eye-foan and can’t find a carbon cover for sale. There’s only mentioned of a custom built one on a vid, but no instructions, and they say the cover is about 400gms.
Why not make the area where the bolts go through the frame solid so there would be more thread engagement. Unless that little area is designed to hold a metal nut. Also, please see my photos, it needs the cutout like I circled done in the area I marked on your photo. You have to stick the mount in the frame first and lift the battery high enough to put the bottom in and then drop it down. The more cutout on the mount, the more the battery can be sticking out for you to hold onto while you are getting the bottom into position.
What is the idea here? Do you thread the mount? If so making this solid for more thread engagement is what I was talking about
I like having a metal nut in there. You can probably still get it in there without the cutout, just much harder. The battery is heavy and the more the cover is sticking out from the frame the easier it is to hold onto. I would at least make that side as thin as possible. Without actually trying it I can't say for sure but if you read back in the thread the problem was enough that one guy even designed his to have only one bolt through the frame.
Now that I think about it I don't see how it would work without the cutout. Have you made any that testers are using without the cutout? The reason I say that is because you have to stick the top of the battery in first and be able to pull it out far enough that the cover can go on the outside of the frame and then put the bottom in. If you can't pull it out far enough for the cover to go on the outside of the frame I don't see how it can work but maybe it'll just barely squeeze by without the cutout.
Sweet, I want one and also the mounts!
Yes, i just completed my printed cover, thankfully i have a large printer so can print in just two sections, i printed it in Carbon, but for good measure also applied a carbon wrap purely for aesthetics. Came out nice. Saved 400g (ish)
RolfRapRap,( look above) can hook you up. I bought a 625 mount and a 500 mount and 2 printed covers. He put a lot of effort in creating a good system and is very knowledgeable.
1) To my knowledge the PCB in the smart motor should recognize any of the smart batteries. Just make sure you purchase a 500w smart battery (BOSCH P/N: EB12.100.018) so the power plug / cables will work. Full disclosure, I have not tried doing what you are proposing, and I am in the US so part numbers might be different.
Hello - please find an overview and mounting guide here. These are available on Ebay
Hi, i'm working for this mod, anyone says the real weight of the Aligment plate on a Rail 750wh flow System, many thanks , i'm evaluating if is convenient or not to remove.
The Trek RIB system uses proprietary end caps for the battery cover and doesn't use the powertube mounting plate. I doubt the Pole system would work with the stock cover if at all. If it did work and eliminated the rattle, that would be great.
