Anyone install their cascade link for rise yet ?

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Funks said:
Anybody paired this up with a 160mm fork?
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Yes its a perfect combo. I also have 165mm cranks on L frame.
I've had a number of rides and so far feel it is a big improvement for the terrain I ride. My shock is due a service, got that squelchy noise off the top so will get it done and should perform much better!

I'm trying to track an annoying creak when i pedal. sounds like motor mounts or possibly the dropper cable rubbing between the frame/battery.. its the last annoying thing of this bike. to sort out!
 
Rod B. said:
You shouldn't have any problems with removing the bearings. Keep in mind, the bearings are not going to fall out, you'll have to strike them with some considerable force, using a ball peen hammer with some weight. I've always used a drift punch inserted from the opposite side of the frame to drive the bearing out. I've tried using a slide hammer puller, but I've found the brass drift punch to be more effective. I like using a brass drift punch simply because it's less likely to grenade the hardened bearing race and send the pieces shooting into your hand. Using a hardened punch against a hardened bearing can cause pieces of the bearing to shear off.

View attachment 126232


With all that said, you are obviously encountering a different situation than the rest of us. Remote Juggernaut's suggestion of some penetrating oil is very good. Give the bearings a shot of the oil and let it soak in for an hour or so. Occasionally tap the bearing. The idea is to get the oil to work into the gap between the bearing race and the frame.

I would suggest one other idea that may help loosen up the bearing. Lay the bike on it's side. Take some dry ice or ice cubes and place the pieces in a plastic bag. Lay the plastic bag on the pivot bearing itself. Let the bag sit there on the bearing for about 30 minutes. This will slightly cool the metal and shrink it. Once the bearing is very cold to the touch, quickly pick the bike up and strike the bearing, it should come out.
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I used a punch and finally got it out. I ordered some new bearings anyways. but I had to hit it pretty hard before it started to finally budge
 
Already installed mine, should give it a go in the end of the week
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czech99 said:
do you mind sharing a picture of the gap between the cascade link and the upper pivot bearing? when i test fitted mine, there seemed to be quite a bit of gap compared to the stock linkage.
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I thought the same with mine, however, there is zero lateral play when it is all torqued up.
 
Wondering if anyone noticed a increase in stiffness in the rear end with the CC link with the preload kit. Love the Rise, but I always found the rear end a little flexy when charging hard around corners and in the rocks.
 
I'd have said that the seatstays/ chainstay combined with tiny bearings are the reason for flex.

They're all going to flex and give long before the linkage does so I don't see it making much difference personally. The linkage is pretty heavy duty and run on fairly large bearings so it's probably already the stiffest part.

Happy to be proven wrong though!
 
I agree, the rear end chainstays are on the smaller size. I was just hoping to hear that the preload kit would help keep the link in place over the axles much better and add to the stiffness a bit.

I will be ordering the CC link shortly based on my experiences with CC links on a Transition and Evil, both delivered as advertised, biggest impact on the Transition Sentinel.
 
Im still at a bit of a lose as to what it does and how. Is the link thicker / different materials / diff geometry etc?? Read the cascade blurb but not yet fully enlightened.

I changed the rekon the a scoprion with a DH casing and even that seems to provide a tad more stability so maybe this link is my next go to.

EDIT ; found pic above..OK seems quite a bit more 'meat'

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Kevlasultanpus said:
Im still at a bit of a lose as to what it does and how. Is the link thicker / different materials / diff geometry etc?? Read the cascade blurb but not yet fully enlightened.

I changed the rekon the a scoprion with a DH casing and even that seems to provide a tad more stability so maybe this link is my next go to.

EDIT ; found pic above..OK seems quite a bit more 'meat'

View attachment 127274
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The difference in distance between the mounting holes is obvious, so it changes the geometry, leverage, throw etc. I replaced a similar linkage on a motorbike rear suspension and the difference was like night and day.
 
Cavi said:
Has anyone ran this on a rise with the 216 x 63 shock with offset bushings yet??
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Yes I just installed mine and have a couple good rides on it. I’m using 2 offset bushings and bike is mulleted. Front fork is Fox 38 170 mm. It’s awesome! Definitely feel a little more travel and it’s more sensitive off top but no bottom out. I’ve hit a few good drops. It’s basically 170/172 with about 64.5 HTA. Overall I really like the feel of the bike.
 
Jay Bird said:
Yes I just installed mine and have a couple good rides on it. I’m using 2 offset bushings and bike is mulleted. Front fork is Fox 38 170 mm. It’s awesome! Definitely feel a little more travel and it’s more sensitive off top but no bottom out. I’ve hit a few good drops. It’s basically 170/172 with about 64.5 HTA. Overall I really like the feel of the bike.
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How's the rear tire clearance with the seat tube? Do you think there's enough room to run a 29" wheel out back if you wanted to?
 
Jay Bird said:
Yes I just installed mine and have a couple good rides on it. I’m using 2 offset bushings and bike is mulleted. Front fork is Fox 38 170 mm. It’s awesome! Definitely feel a little more travel and it’s more sensitive off top but no bottom out. I’ve hit a few good drops. It’s basically 170/172 with about 64.5 HTA. Overall I really like the feel of the bike.
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Do you have a pic of your bike?
 
BiGJZ74 said:
That's good to know, I'm ordering my next week and I run full 29". Currently running 1 offset but will run 2 if necessary
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Planning my 2024 purchases and looking to get the link too. What size bike are you running? Also did you get the link installed yet with 29 out back? what's the clearance like?
 
iJak said:
Planning my 2024 purchases and looking to get the link too. What size bike are you running? Also did you get the link installed yet with 29 out back? what's the clearance like?
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Received the link but no time to install yet due to work schedule. I used the retaining compound to keep the stock links from slipping, so they may be a pain to take off.
 
BiGJZ74 said:
Received the link but no time to install yet due to work schedule. I used the retaining compound to keep the stock links from slipping, so they may be a pain to take off.
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How about now - Got it installed? What's your take on it so far and size of bike + full 29 setup?
 
iJak said:
How about now - Got it installed? What's your take on it so far and size of bike + full 29 setup?
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I’m also curious for a ride report. With the longer travel the bike should sit lower at sag and at full bottom out. I’m curious if that’s noticeable.
 
iJak said:
How about now - Got it installed? What's your take on it so far and size of bike + full 29 setup?
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I think it's great, more supple, rear stiffer. Full 29 w/ one offset bushing on Size Large. Fox 38 180mm front/DHX2 8.5x2.5" 172mm Rear

image0.jpeg
 
doochenozzle said:
I’m also curious for a ride report. With the longer travel the bike should sit lower at sag and at full bottom out. I’m curious if that’s noticeable.
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The bike feels a bit lower as I have a ton of travel, in big compressions you are a bit lower in real rocky tech with a few more pedal strikes. That will probably go away as I get used to how the bike rides dynamically. I may swap to 160 cranks but I prefer 165. When I pedal above the speed limit, 160's have no leverage to sprint. The bike feels bottomless, I don't even feel the bottom outs at all. The bike is perfect for me now...I wanted an E-Rallon..now I have one lol. Although I may buy a Wild just to see what it's like. I'm a bigger guy so I run an Extender on every ride.
 
Removal of old link was pretty straight forward.
Installation of new link was good until I had bolt in the seat stays. I got one side installed but it was quite hard to align - stripped first thread of the bolt. The second side was even harder.
Solution is to loosen the rear axle, and if you have SRAM, put on the chain slack lock on the rear mech. For any other drivetrains, disconnecting the chain would help by reducing seatstay tension.
This made both sides installation much easier.

As for 29" clearance with long stroking and double offset - we are good for a size large. I will probably reduce an offset like BiGJZ74 did. Unfortunately I do have a slight rub on my hydro h10 2021 model.
IMG_0238.jpeg
 
Tip for seat stays, (after doing same myself) is to do it on the floor with the bike wheels on the ground. I found they align almost instantly and it was a breeze. I ended up having to buy an M10 tap and running it through the thread on the orange one as i wasn't sure if it was just the bolt, but the thread was spot-on on the chainstay.
 
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