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@Amflow_Support Will the mobile app be updated to reflect all that is on the frame touch screen? For example, "Advanced Options" and "Speed Limit" only appear on the touch screen and not in the app. Thank you
Thank you for sharing your feedback with us.
We’ll pass your suggestion to our R&D team for review.
Hopefully, future updates will allow the APP to display all the functions currently shown on the central control screen.
We truly appreciate your understanding and continued support.
 
@Amflow Support: Was looking in the Avinox app and was confused by what I was seeing in Ride Data versus About Devices for Total Distance. Why is there a difference? View attachment 166313

@Amflow Support: Was looking in the Avinox app and was confused by what I was seeing in Ride Data versus About Devices for Total Distance. Why is there a difference? View attachment 166313
Thank you for your inquiry.
Generally, the riding data shown in About Devices will be larger than the numbers in Ride data page.
To better understand your case, could you confirm if you’ve ever paired your account with another bike for riding, or if your current bike has had its motor replaced?
 
Hi @Amflow_Support, what's going on with UK delivery to authorised dealers at the moment? Amflow website says 3 day delivery, yet my LBS (who are authorised dealers listed on your website) have not received my bike for over 3 weeks now!
 
Dear DJI Support Team,


I am writing to report a recurring technical issue with my DJI Amflow PL Carbon e-bike, which I purchased on 21.07.2025.

The bike has been performing perfectly until yesterday. After riding for approximately 20 kilometers, I experienced a sudden and significant drop in motor power.

The following error messages appeared on the bike's display and in the mobile application:


  • On the bike's display: "Bike power motor restricted"
  • In the DJI app: "speed sensor error"

Additionally, the speed reading on the display started showing random, fluctuating numbers.


I have attempted to restart the bike, and while this temporarily resolves the issue, the problem returns shortly after I resume riding.


As part of my own troubleshooting, I have checked the physical components:


  • I have inspected the speed sensor and the magnet on the rear wheel spoke.
  • The sensor and magnet appear to be correctly aligned and at the proper distance.
  • I have also visually checked the cable for any signs of damage.

This appears to be a consistent technical fault with the bike's speed sensor or motor control system. As the bicycle is under warranty, I would appreciate your guidance on the next steps for a proper diagnosis and repair.

IMG_9439.PNG IMG_9440.PNG IMG_9441.jpeg IMG_9470.jpeg
 
Hi @Amflow_Support, what's going on with UK delivery to authorised dealers at the moment? Amflow website says 3 day delivery, yet my LBS (who are authorised dealers listed on your website) have not received my bike for over 3 weeks now!
Thank you for reaching out to us again and sharing your ongoing concern. We apologize for the inconvenience caused by the delay.
As remote basic customer support, we are unable to access the dealer order’s delivery timeline, because these timelines involve the operational privacy of the dealer.
If you find the store's timing unacceptable, you may want to consider exploring other purchasing channels. In the meantime, contacting the store directly might offer more immediate insights into your order status.
We appreciate your patience and understanding in this matter.
 
Dear DJI Support Team,


I am writing to report a recurring technical issue with my DJI Amflow PL Carbon e-bike, which I purchased on 21.07.2025.

The bike has been performing perfectly until yesterday. After riding for approximately 20 kilometers, I experienced a sudden and significant drop in motor power.

The following error messages appeared on the bike's display and in the mobile application:


  • On the bike's display: "Bike power motor restricted"
  • In the DJI app: "speed sensor error"

Additionally, the speed reading on the display started showing random, fluctuating numbers.


I have attempted to restart the bike, and while this temporarily resolves the issue, the problem returns shortly after I resume riding.


As part of my own troubleshooting, I have checked the physical components:


  • I have inspected the speed sensor and the magnet on the rear wheel spoke.
  • The sensor and magnet appear to be correctly aligned and at the proper distance.
  • I have also visually checked the cable for any signs of damage.

This appears to be a consistent technical fault with the bike's speed sensor or motor control system. As the bicycle is under warranty, I would appreciate your guidance on the next steps for a proper diagnosis and repair.

View attachment 166546 View attachment 166547 View attachment 166548 View attachment 166549
Sorry to hear about this issue.
To help narrow down the cause, please check the following:
  1. Confirm if the rear hub axle is loose — the standard torque level is 10 N·m.
  2. Verify whether the brake disc has been replaced.
  3. Confirm if the bike has been washed.
Additionally, please advise where the bike was purchased.
If it was from a dealer, a cross‑test at the dealer is recommended.
 
I'm flummoxed on this one.

I've just replaced my rear tyre, upon reinstalling the rear wheel, I cannot get the rear wheel to tighten without this cone loosening. This is because as you tighten, the hub axle spins one side, but this cone grips the dropout and stays stationary - thus loosening itself.

When the cone loosens, not only is there play in the wheel but the derailleur will shift the chain off the cassette. This is because the cone is widening the rear end of the bike.

What's odd is I've fixed a flat tyre a few times before and the rear wheel went in fine, I can't understand what's changed.

What do I need to do here to keep the cone tight whilst tightening the axle?

IMG_7277.jpg
 
What do I need to do here to keep the cone tight whilst tightening the axle?
The black part is supposed to spin freely

The cassette lockring should not be loosening

did you replace the cassette or mess with it?
 
What do I need to do here to keep the cone tight whilst tightening the axle?
On the brake rotor side, there is normally a a flat on the cone to place a spanner, then you can tighten the end cap on that side, and lock that side in position. Then once that side is locked, you can tighten the drive side end cap, and nothing should come loose as you re-install the axle.
 
Hi! The cable we use for AXS derailleur is a SRAM power cable, internal part number: 11.3018.028.003. But we don't have a specific guidance for connecting to a di2 cable type. The cable is connected directly to the 3rd expansion port on the motor. View attachment 166194
View attachment 166193
Thanks for the quick response. I am almost complete with my Crestline build but am really stuck trying to power my Shimano wireless derailleur to the expansion port (Higo Micro A type). Do you think as Dji or Amflow that you could request Higo connectors to make a connector that Shimano Di2 system?

IMG_3030.jpeg
 
On the brake rotor side, there is normally a a flat on the cone to place a spanner, then you can tighten the end cap on that side, and lock that side in position. Then once that side is locked, you can tighten the drive side end cap, and nothing should come loose as you re-install the axle.

Amazing, thank you - I got it after some googling - I need to pull off the brake side end cap so I can get a hex in the axle to tighten the drive side.

Thanks!
 
Hey @Amflow_Support and anyone else. What is considered to be an acceptable level of battery % loss over a 24hr period switched off? Regardless of charge level (I know the battery discharges if left at 100% to prolong the battery) but no matter what % it is left at, I lose between 9-11% in a 24 hour period without switching the bike on. Temperature matters of course but we are talking no lower than 18°c at the moment. Cheers.
 
Hey @Amflow_Support and anyone else. What is considered to be an acceptable level of battery % loss over a 24hr period switched off? Regardless of charge level (I know the battery discharges if left at 100% to prolong the battery) but no matter what % it is left at, I lose between 9-11% in a 24 hour period without switching the bike on. Temperature matters of course but we are talking no lower than 18°c at the moment. Cheers.
definitely not normal
perhaps it would help to discharge the battery to 0% and then charge it completely
 
definitely not normal
perhaps it would help to discharge the battery to 0% and then charge it completely
I may be corrected, but I think that sometimes completely discharged lithium batteries can not be recharged.
 
I may be corrected
They can be, but it usually requires a slow special charger that trickles a charge in to keep the cells at an even charge, before normal charging can resume.

RC helicopters used these chargers, as we often drained them flat.

I can tell you when our bikes say 10% left, its not 10% and I only made it a mile before hitting the bikes shut off point which leaves a small charge for electronic shifting but zero to motor.
 
I only had these capacity losses for the first 2-3 months, but in winter at 0-5% degrees Celsius - since it's been warmer, I haven't lost anything at all
 
They can be, but it usually requires a slow special charger that trickles a charge in to keep the cells at an even charge, before normal charging can resume.

RC helicopters used these chargers, as we often drained them flat.

I can tell you when our bikes say 10% left, its not 10% and I only made it a mile before hitting the bikes shut off point which leaves a small charge for electronic shifting but zero to motor.
In other words, they are NOT completely discharged. Thanks for clearing that up.
 
In other words, they are NOT completely discharged.
Nothing is cleared up. Depends on which bike you have, with a manual transmission, you can run these batteries dead until the bike literally powers off with no juice left. My Shimano did just that with the manual transmission.

Eectronic shifting leaves a very slight amount so you can shift gears to get home. So range on the PRO mode is less than the standard PL. But the amount is probably within a mile or two, and one model is completely discharged. The other very close to it.
 
Nothing is cleared up. Depends on which bike you have, with a manual transmission, you can run these batteries dead until the bike literally powers off with no juice left. My Shimano did just that with the manual transmission.
Does the bike literally powering off mean that the battery is physically completely discharged?
 
Does the bike literally powering off mean that the battery is physically completely discharged?
nope, thank god we have a battery management system :D
and i think the battery is lithium ion for sure?

lithium polymer like freestyle fpv drone batteries are fucked when you go down to 3v or so like winford "said" :d but there you dont have a bms
 
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Some loss is completely normal, I saw my battery drop overnight and asked a few people on here. Oddly it's not always the same, sometimes 2-3% overnight just sitting, sometimes nothing, I am guessing the battery management system is going something and obviously the 3G modem will be sending data with the bikes position. But that shouldn't be much use. I don't think you have a problem @Hedger81
 
Some loss is completely normal, I saw my battery drop overnight and asked a few people on here. Oddly it's not always the same, sometimes 2-3% overnight just sitting, sometimes nothing, I am guessing the battery management system is going something and obviously the 3G modem will be sending data with the bikes position. But that shouldn't be much use. I don't think you have a problem @Hedger81
hmm but he lost 9-11% in a 24 hour period:oops:
i lost with my bike maybe 2% over night but it was plugged in and at 80% charge limit
 
Does the bike literally powering off mean that the battery is physically completely discharged?
I know power and torque drop off to nothing and it is a gradual decline as if the battery is out of all juice. I have not measured voltage to see how much the BMS retains. Cant be much. On my Canyon it was identical as voltage drops
 
I know power and torque drop off to nothing and it is a gradual decline as if the battery is out of all juice. I have not measured voltage to see how much the BMS retains. Cant be much. On my Canyon it was identical as voltage drops
The BMS is not a storage device and therefore retains nothing. When the battery power level falls below a threshold the BMS switches battery power supply off to the motor and other connected devices such as lights. It thus prevents complete battery discharge to ensure that it can be successfully recharged.

Winford said:
... with a manual transmission, you can run these batteries dead until the bike literally powers off with no juice left.

This^^^ is not correct, the BMS prevents the battery "running completely dead".
 
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Just saying BMS or not, with a manual transmission amps and volts drop dramatically. The BMS only leaves a trickle at best. Dead enough there is no assistance what so ever while the battery is still tied to the motor. On my Shimano anyway. Once you run electronic shifting some power is left but you can feel power drop way below eco mode.
 
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