Bchild12
New Member
- May 25, 2026
- 1
- 0
I ride a 2023 Orbea Rise H30 .
Tools for chainring removal? upgraded chainring worth it?
@Greg Watts
Tools for chainring removal? upgraded chainring worth it?
@Greg Watts
-
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2023 Orbea Rise H30 chainring removal tools and upgrade options?
- Thread starter Bchild12
- Start date
Your H30 runs the Shimano EP6/EP600 motor, so this is the Shimano chainring removal job, not the Bosch one.
Tools you need
• Shimano TL-FC41 lockring tool (the splined cassette-lockring style tool that fits the EP8/EP6 chainring lockring) — or any compatible third-party version. Same tool works across the EP8 family.
• A long-handled wrench or breaker bar — the lockring is on tight from factory and the cranks want to spin while you undo it.
• Something to hold the crank still: chain whip on the cassette with the bike in gear works, or wedge the crank.
• 8mm hex for the non-drive crank bolt if you need to pull the crank for better access (often you don't — the chainring comes off with cranks in place).
• Torque wrench for refitting — lockring to spec (around 40 Nm from memory, but check the Shimano dealer manual for EP600).
Is an upgrade worth it?
Depends what you're chasing:
• Gearing change — yes, genuinely useful. Stock is 34T. Going to 36T gives you more top-end for fire roads and faster trails; dropping to 32T helps on steep techy climbs. @T0mmy confirmed a 34T e*thirteen fits the Rise H with minimal chainstay clearance; @sandy raw reckons 34T or possibly 36T is the ceiling on the newer Rise frames — 38T won't clear. Update the chainring size in the E-Tube app afterwards so the assistance curves stay accurate.
• Durability — the newest Rise models ship with a steel chainring from the factory. If yours is the alloy original, @b33k34 got around 4,000 km out of an e*thirteen alloy before replacement. Steel lasts substantially longer but is heavier and currently hard to source aftermarket — e*thirteen's steel version has been listed as unavailable in UK/EU stores.
• Cost — e*thirteen alloy is around £75 RRP. Not a huge outlay.
My take for an H30: if the stock ring is still healthy, leave it until it wears. If you're spinning out on flats, a 36T is the upgrade that actually changes how the bike rides. Pure replacement-for-replacement, the steel ring (when you can find one) is the smart long-term call.
Shout if you want chain/cassette recommendations to pair with it, or the exact E-Tube steps to update chainring size.
Tools you need
• Shimano TL-FC41 lockring tool (the splined cassette-lockring style tool that fits the EP8/EP6 chainring lockring) — or any compatible third-party version. Same tool works across the EP8 family.
• A long-handled wrench or breaker bar — the lockring is on tight from factory and the cranks want to spin while you undo it.
• Something to hold the crank still: chain whip on the cassette with the bike in gear works, or wedge the crank.
• 8mm hex for the non-drive crank bolt if you need to pull the crank for better access (often you don't — the chainring comes off with cranks in place).
• Torque wrench for refitting — lockring to spec (around 40 Nm from memory, but check the Shimano dealer manual for EP600).
Is an upgrade worth it?
Depends what you're chasing:
• Gearing change — yes, genuinely useful. Stock is 34T. Going to 36T gives you more top-end for fire roads and faster trails; dropping to 32T helps on steep techy climbs. @T0mmy confirmed a 34T e*thirteen fits the Rise H with minimal chainstay clearance; @sandy raw reckons 34T or possibly 36T is the ceiling on the newer Rise frames — 38T won't clear. Update the chainring size in the E-Tube app afterwards so the assistance curves stay accurate.
• Durability — the newest Rise models ship with a steel chainring from the factory. If yours is the alloy original, @b33k34 got around 4,000 km out of an e*thirteen alloy before replacement. Steel lasts substantially longer but is heavier and currently hard to source aftermarket — e*thirteen's steel version has been listed as unavailable in UK/EU stores.
• Cost — e*thirteen alloy is around £75 RRP. Not a huge outlay.
My take for an H30: if the stock ring is still healthy, leave it until it wears. If you're spinning out on flats, a 36T is the upgrade that actually changes how the bike rides. Pure replacement-for-replacement, the steel ring (when you can find one) is the smart long-term call.
Shout if you want chain/cassette recommendations to pair with it, or the exact E-Tube steps to update chainring size.
