Ep801 solution

Cleggy said:

Can any of you with a derestricted EP801 confirm whether or not this is detectable by Shimano and Bike shops?

I'm growing increasingly frustrated with the UK limit of 15mph but my motor is still under warranty for another 19 months so very reluctant to proceed with emax

Once derestricted remotely by them can we then roll it back to standard ourselves or does that require yet another remote connection session?

If another remote connection session does that also incur another fee?

Ideally this would be a plug n play hardware solution but for some reason this seems to not be possible on the EP801

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Tombie said:

Bugger the warranty!

Why put up with something that’s making you unhappy for 2 years?

In context, (I’m not on my high horse, I’d possibly do it). Modifying something beyond spec, and then having a failure - and reverting it back and saying it hadn’t been used outside design - is fraud/dishonest.

I’d be pissed if I designed something, offered a warranty, and it was used beyond my design and failed and then the purchaser wanted it replaced for free.

So I get it….


But just bite the damn bullet, set it up like you want it and enjoy. Done it to my bikes, motorbikes, 4x4s, road cars etc for years.

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Fielonator said:

Cleggy, have you tried a derestricted emtb of any kind? Just wondering as that was the clincher for me.

Once I'd experienced the goodness of the full potential of these bikes there was no way I wasn't having that for myself.

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Cleggy said:

not yet mate and a lot of the time I don't need it derestricted cos the trails have enough negative gradient

but some trails the limiter kicks in on a flat run in to a jump (very dangerous) and I've struggled to clear the jump due to lack of speed and or technique

but the other day i went to my local for the first time in 15 months (I avoid it cos its flat and pedally), it is flat as, definitely more suited to an XC bike but I only have the eeb now so I ride what I have and even in boost which i next to never use i just could not pedal past the speed restrictor

getting it derestricted makes sense but its costly, need to buy/hire the dongle, then the €119 fee and then buy or borrow someones winDOZE pc and finally need to bring the bike inside the house to do it cos theres no internet out in the garage

and then the hassle of reverting it to standard if the motor needs to go back (5 months old and already one error logged though its a battery connection issue rather than the motor)

and another fee to derestrict again when the motor would come back from repair/replacement

but yeah I think biting the bullet and getting it done is the only realistic option because that throwing the anchor out feeling when you hit 15mph is just not what riding an MTB is all about

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PTaroni said:

I have just had mine de restricted this evening by Emax after purchasing a pce02 and can highly recommend! they even set my fine tune settings after I messed them up!
I will be renting out my pce02 local to loughborough Leicestershire. On a collect and drop off basis.

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Unfortunatecookie said:

Hello. So to get the emax (ideally 32 km/h) tuning I just need the pce interface and pc and I’m set ?

It’s frustrating to have the wall hitting at 25 specially just before a jump. Even in eco mode I could do it.


Thanks.

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Unfortunatecookie said:

Hello. So to get the emax (ideally 32 km/h) tuning I just need the pce interface and pc and I’m set ?

It’s frustrating to have the wall hitting at 25 specially just before a jump. Even in eco mode I could do it.


Thanks.

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Dear Derek,

thank you for your interest in the eMax / miniMax / eMaxMobileApp software!



Just in a nutshell: There will be definitely no chance to speed up any DU-EP801 based bike solely via Bluetooth also in the future!

So, for speeding up such a bike, you will always need a cable bound SM-PCE02 interface, a Windows based computer, our miniMax – program and a bike related licence key. You can get such an interface in many online bike shops (see e.g. here) or there are some clever people who rent these devices on a daily basis in the internet.



Regarding the new generation drive units EP801 (DU-EP801) and EP6 (DU-EP600) and its variants “-RS” (Riders Synergy for Orbea) and “-CRG” (Cargo) =>



Things that will NOT work:

Using an external electronic hardware box (like SpeedBox, MBIQ, BadAss, RedPad, PearTune …) will definitely not work on this new generation drive unit (EP801/EP6) and will generate E295 and finally E299 errors after riding just a few kilometres and finally will completely block the motor support! In this case Shimano has to unlock the drive unit and this is a highly time and money consuming process.

Also you will never get rid of the E299 and so your bike most probably is already flagged for out of warranty for a lifetime, even if the drive unit was unlocked again by Shimano.



There is and will not be any possibility to change the destination from EU (25km/h) to US (32km/h) for this new generation motors (like it was possible with our software for previous Shimano STePS drive units) because Shimano now produces and sells different production versions of the drive unit which are only sold for the US – market. So it is no more possible to change the destination country after the production cycle.



There is and will not be any possibility to change the wheel circumference to speed up the bike for this new generation motors (like it was possible with our software for previous Shimano STePS drive units) because Shimano now blocks changing the wheel circumference after 3 attempts permanently. So, our software is able to modify the wheel circumference also for this new generation drive units, but we will not release this feature, because this will ruin our perfect reputation, because for sure the drive unit of some users will get stuck exactly in the moment when a biker has programmed a very low (not realistic) wheel circumference (like the minimum value of 1300mm) to speed up his bike and then will be trapped also and permanently flagged as “warranty voided” when going to the bike shop the next time.



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There is worldwide no other tuning for a bike with this new drive units than our eMax-Tuning system availableand Shimano claims that it is not possible to optimize this drive unit!

All external “dongles” will create E295 and E299 errors and will lock the drive unit, see also this German forum post of us.



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Regarding increasing max. torque and max. peak power on “RS” drive units on Orbea bikes:

With the latest version 2.41 of our Windows based minimax program (see at the end of this email) and a cable bound PCE interface you are able to unleash the full potential (85Nm max. torque and 600W peak power for the EP801-RS or 500W peak power for the EP6-RS) of a 2023 Orbea bike.

This functionality is delivered free of charge from us (so already in the licence key free mode), see also this German forum post of us.

You can get such an interface in many online bikeshops – take care, maybe also need some additional adapters and cables to connect the interface, see chapter 3 in this document.

So, if you want to get the full potential of the EP801-RS (officially DU-EP801-RS) or EP6-RS (officially DU-EP600-RS) drive unit, best is to get a PCE – interface and use our Windows based miniMax – program.



With the latest version 1.70 of the Bluetooth based eMaxMobileApp (for iOS and Android) this functionality is also already supported.



Take care: Please always reset the values to the standard EP801-RS / EP6-RS settings before bringing the bike to the bike shop, otherwise you might void your warranty!



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Regarding increasing max. motor support speed on EP801 and EP6 drive units (including “RS” and “CRG” – versions):

We also already have found the first worldwide solution to speed up the new generation Shimano STePS drive units up to max. 50km/h with correct indication of all values on the bike display, however, currently this will be possible in our office in Germany, see (and maybe translate) this German forum post of us.



We also try very hard to create an official end user solution for this type of tuning, but this may also take some more time.

If you have access to a cable bound SM-PCE02 – interface we are able to speed up your bike also via a remote control session of your Windows computer with attached bike…

The price for the personal service for a single remote control session including the bike related licence key (which is necessary to speed up the bike) will be 119€ (incl. 19% VAT).



For sure any modification like our tuning will void warranty and if you don´t reset the bike back to the original state, your warranty most probably will be gone.

However, with our tuning possibilities you are able to bring the bike back to the original state (without any traces of any previous modifications left) and so you will not get any problems with any warranty claim.



See also chapter 12 of this document.



So, best is to get access to a cable bound PCE02 interface first and then to contact us again.



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Things to know:

You always should reset the bike to the complete unmodified state if you will bring the bike to a regular bikeshop (or Shimano), otherwise you may void warranty!

With a PCE02 – interface it is quite easy to reset your EP801/EP6 based bike to this original state by your own.

However, to speed up the bike again after such a “reset” we currently need to do another remote control session (at least as long as there is no “official” software from us publicly available to do this). For sure we don´t charge full fee for this additional service, however, if we have to do this again we have to charge a (small) fee for the service (we will discuss if you really need this – I just wanted to mention this). Hopefully if you need this we finally have released a software with which you don´t need our personals remote assistance any more…



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Regarding the necessary PCE interface:

You can get this necessary cable bound PCE interface (you need to get the newer SM-PCE02 type) in many online bike shops.

Depending on the type of display your bike has and the packaging version of the interface, maybe some additional adapter and cable is necessary, see chapter 3 in this document.



If your bike has no dedicated display and is fitted just with the SW-EN600-L remote control on your left side handle bar, then best is to additionally get a EW-JC304 quadruple adapter and an additional EW-SD300 cable to connect the interface close to the SW-EN600-L, otherwise you may (depending on the bike frame which sometimes covers the upper part on the drive unit, especially on Orbea bikes) need to dismantle (or at least lower) the drive unit to connect the interface at the drive unit which is really extremely time consuming.



Here is a schematic on how to connect the PCE – interface to your bike when there is no display connected:







However, if your bike is fitted with a dedicated display (SC-EN600, SC-EN610, SC-EM800, SC-E7000), then this display has several receptacles already and you can connect the PCE - interface directly to the display.



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Don´t hesitate to ask if there are some more questions – we like to assist and help on 7 days a week.



Best regards,



Markus from the eMax - team

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We also try very hard to create an official end user solution for this type of tuning, but this may also take some more time.

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franciscoasismm said:

I have 38T

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franciscoasismm said:

View attachment 146571

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sandy raw said:

I used STEPS SM-CRE70-12 (53mm)

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Astro66 said:

That has a 53mm chain line, where I'd say your 10 speed original has a 50mm, looking at the most common spiders for a 10 speed. If you post the part number we can check it.

This means your chain line at the front is 3mm further out, which should be fine. But it does mean you'll have more cross chaining when in the lower gears. And more chance of you're chain coming off when you're in the lower gears.

My test of too much cross chaining, when you move the front chain line out, is to put the bike in first gear, and roll the bike backwards. If the chain drops onto the second gear, then IMO there is too much cross chaining, and the chain may come off the front chain ring when on bumpy terrain in 1st gear.

I would normally add a chain guide in this case.

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sandy raw said:

But I think you didn't understand the meaning of my message, what I placed it with is just perfect! it runs super clean the gear changes are super fast & quiet,

and I give people references if they want to install it and drive much faster with an orbea rise (it's possible ).

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Astro66 said:

Yes I understand the gear changes work well. But is the chain now falling off on the inside of the chain ring when you go over bumpy terrain in first gear, because the chain alignment has been altered.

I am speaking from experience when I changed the chain alignment. I needed to install a chain guide on the chain ring, because the chain kept coming off. Chains coming off is really annoying.

What you have done is great. But just make sure it hasn't caused other issues, by altering the chain alignment. So I guess I'm asking if your chain falls off ? Because it shouldn't.

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