Review 2021 Reid E-Trail 2.0

I still have my hardtail Etrail2, a must mod is a 7 speed quality derailleur [not a cheap end shimano.The slop/flex just wont allow proper gear changes .This bike in pic is a dual suspension version of the Reid etrail2 that i had for a day , the Ananda motor lasted 45 minutes, exactly the same motor ,some are bad some are good.:rolleyes:
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With the last remaining MY26 eTrail headed for the sunset, there is a similar OEM model with Ananda M100 and better components. Distributed by BikeCorp in Melbourne it can be found for around AUD2500 in several stores. Still using the trusty serial UART control protocol and easy to do magnet mod.




Also a lower spec version, same motor, same battery:

 
Just discovered your post. I've put 4500km on my etrail 2.0, mainly on dirty, rooty trails. yes, the front fork is really harsh. I had to shim the motor mounts with stainless washers to be able to tighten them to stop creaking. I designed my own speed delimiter that ups my limit to 30km/hr using a $3 Arduino nano activated by the light switch (the ones they sell for $200 are a real ripoff), but I never use it....
 
Ananda M100 speed unlock.

I voided my warranty the day I opened the box so might as well share my unlocking modification to remove the nonsense 25kph Australian limit and bring the bike up to the New Zealand 32kph limit.

Relocate the speed sensor from the rear wheel to the side of the motor. This confuses the motor firmware to think you are moving slower and the speed limit cut out threshold is not reached, letting the motor spin higher giving you more speed.

The Ananda M100 has a very convenient screw point on the left hand plastic motor cover. Remove the short M4 hex head bolt and attach the sensor using a longer 15-20mm bolt and washer. The cable run back to the motor 'port hole' is same run length.

Remove magnet from back wheel and attach to inside of left crank arm with some Blue-Tac, glue or silicone. Get the distance between magnet and sensor similar to original position. You can also add a black cable tie for extra security or use any suitable magnet that will be strong enough to activate the Hall effect poles in the sensor.

The upside is a potential speed limit approaching 60kph if you can pedal hard enough. Even in the lowest 50% 1/5 setting I easily achieve 32kph with little effort. (The M100 is stupidly powerful).

Downside is losing accurate speed and distant measurements on the LCD display which generally equates to a third of actual measurements. But the loss of these features are quickly overcome with a bicycle that becomes a far more practical transport option.

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In case of interest, my cheap Arduino based mod increases the speed limit to 32 km/hr by intercepting the signal from the speed sensor and generating a new signal at 0.78 times the actual rate. The display will read low by a factor of 0.78, still showing 25km/hr at 32. It's activated by the light switch and fits inside the motor cover. The most expensive parts were the special waterproof connectors... I had to buy more than I needed. This is a similar approach to the mods that simply halve the pulse rate from the sensor, but more nuanced. And hundreds of dollars cheaper!
 
In case of interest, my cheap Arduino based mod increases the speed limit to 32 km/hr by intercepting the signal from the speed sensor and generating a new signal at 0.78 times the actual rate. The display will read low by a factor of 0.78, still showing 25km/hr at 32. It's activated by the light switch and fits inside the motor cover. The most expensive parts were the special waterproof connectors... I had to buy more than I needed. This is a similar approach to the mods that simply halve the pulse rate from the sensor, but more nuanced. And hundreds of dollars cheaper!
It sounds too complicated... Are there any videos on how to do this?
 
The magnet move is far easier, only draw back is incorrect speed reading on LCD. I added cheap bike computer on front wheel. Got the bike to 60kph, but much happier in the 30kph range. All up $10.
 
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