Some of the headsets have the fork bearing race and knock block in one. I’ve encounter several which are grossly off centre from the supplier. Taking off the bearing race knockbloc combo is a pain, but I can be done by a decent shop.
I had a torn meniscus, it resulted in a flap of cartilage wedging into my joint causing considerable pain. The short story is the doctor did the usual, ice, heat, ibuprofen, blah blah. I then became a pest to them, they eventually sent me for an MRI. The NHS refused to do surgery as it wasn’t...
Looks like. rozone parts washer, which used a biodegradable degreaser. Not sure I’d wash a motor in that, I may spray it with muck off and dry it well after a good brushing. TBH I wouldn't take it out unless I really needed to. But he was modifying the cable routing and replacing the dropper...
So hears a list of things to try:
motor bolts
chain ring bolts
headset bearings/stem
wheel bolts/QR
saddle and post
pedals
etc etc
all of these can cause a creak like that. Systematically go through all of the them and eliminate them one by one, remove, grease and replace. Don’t over tighten...
Some of the yam bikes don’t have yam batteries, this is why the Sw can’t read them and reports an error. This is normal, the battery probably isn’t faulty, just a limitation of the SW
The Sw is programmed to a specific crank length so maybe a chat with your LBS. It may need cube to alter some parameters so it doesn’t upset the puter. I know some people have trouble when they change their chainring, as the revelations of the crank aren’t what it’s expecting so it shuts down.
I’d measure them by inside diameter X outside diameter x dearth then use the imperial measure across the top. And do a search on INA bearings. They look like standard headset bearings. But lookout for the bevel on the outside one them, they’re usually 35 or 45 degrees.