Transporting bike on outside of car options

Hattori-Hanzo

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I've done a quick search, there are a several threads on this but most are a few years old now and I'm wondering if there are new options.

I've got a small car (fabia) and it's becoming tiresome getting the bike in and out of it, especially when it's caked in mud!

So I'm looking into options for transporting the bike outside of the car.
My first thought was a tow bar carrier, but I massively underestimated the cost of fitting a tow bar and the carrier cost.

Roof racks, I think will also be out due to the difficulties of getting the bike up there.

I've now seen boot racks which seem like they may suite but most have low weight limits.

Halfords sell a single bike boot rack that they state is for e bikes.
I can remove the battery from my bike which brings the weight down to an acceptable 20kg but I don't like the idea of supporting the bike by the carbon top tube. I do already have a Halfords false top bar, but this is treated to 15kg.

Link

Another option is the Thule outway platform, much more expensive but it supports the bike from the wheels, but it states a maximum bike weight of 15kg, although the total weight for two bikes is 30kg

Link

Does anyone use either of these options?

Or is there something else I can look into?

Thanks all 👍
 
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You have take into account the speed of driving. Will you be going on highways with the bike? There are stories about people's bikes falling off due to wrong carrier/too heavy. I was contemplating the same dillema two years ago. In the end I opted for towbar installation (800 eur last year) and carrier (1000 eur this year) and never looked back. The bikes are heavy, even without the battery, I'm sure you don't want to screw your back up by lifting the bike on the roof...
 
We've got a VW Up as a second car, that I use when I go cycling on my own.
Initially after buying a full length load liner, I did a few trips that involved taking the wheels off, but it was a muddy PITA.
So next was a roof rack, though finding a carrier that could take the weight was a challenge.
I finally bought a Yakima carrier though I still needed to remove the front wheel, pedals and the AXS seatpost to get under weight, and it's unnerving having it on the roof.
So now I've bitten the bullet, and ordered a towbar from my local specialist and will then get a Buzzrack Scorpion E1, using the 5% discount findable online for the Roofbox co, though they do appear on eBay or Marketplace occasionally.
 
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We've got a VW Up as a second car, that I use when I go cycling on my own.
Initially after buying a full length load liner, I did a few trips that involved taking the wheels off, but it was a muddy PITA.
So next was a roof rack, though finding a carrier that could take the weight was a challenge.
I finally bought a Yakima carrier though I still needed to remove the front wheel, pedals and the AXS seatpost to get under weight, and it's unnerving having it on the roof.
So now I've bitten the bullet, and ordered a towbar from my local specialist and will then get a Buzzrack Scorpion E1, using the 5% discount findable online for the Roofbox co, though they do appear on eBay or Marketplace occasionally.

I bet the bike weighs more than the little VeeDub……..😂
 
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I use a Thule Velo Compact 925 to move my treasured Great Whyte around the country. Alas it needs a tow bar to be fitted to the car. It’s a great bit of kit that can be easily compacted down to fit into the boot. I usually leave it locked onto the tow bar ball when I’m out with the bike and it has a handy tilt feature than enables you to access the boot when the bike is secured on the carrier. It’s designed for two bikes but I’ve ever only used it with one bike on it.
 
Sorry @Hattori-Hanzo I believe that you are just going to have to bite the bullet! Once you do, you will not regret it.

I bought a Thule VeloSpace XT 2 Bike UK 13-pin model 938 from Halfords. I bought the two-bike version because my grandson frequently rides with me, but there is also the chance of sharing fuel costs with a fellow rider.

A tow-bar bike rack will be a one-off purchase as you can move it from car to car. I have had it since Nov'21 and apart from changing a brake light bulb and replacing the plug it has been flawless and is very well designed. Unfortunately, it costs about £700 for a new towbar every time I change my car. YIKES!! (And yes, you do not have to pay £1400 for an Audi towbar).

If you compromise on the rack, you will never be able to relax whilst driving the car. Potholes and sleeping policemen will forever be a concern.

I have a suggestion: Ask ChatGPT. I have just cut and pasted your question into ChatGPT, assuming a bike weight of 25kg. This is the reply:.........................

You're right to be cautious—transporting a heavy e-bike on a small car like a Fabia without a towbar does present challenges, especially with carbon frames and boot-mounted racks. Here are some tailored suggestions:


🚲 Best Transport Options for Your E-Bike (Skoda Fabia)​

1. Towbar Rack (Ideal but Costly)

  • ✅ Most secure and e-bike-friendly
  • ❌ High initial cost: ~£500–£800 all-in
  • ❌ Towbar fitting cost for a Fabia: ~£400–£600
  • ➕ Ideal for futureproofing if you get a different vehicle

2. Roof Rack

  • ❌ Impractical for 20kg+ e-bike—lifting height is a real concern
  • ❌ May exceed roof weight limits (especially with two bikes)
  • ✅ Only really an option with e-bike lift-assist arms (expensive)

3. Boot-Mounted Rack (Viable With Caution)

  • ✅ Most affordable: ~£70–£150
  • ❌ Most have low weight limits (15–20kg per bike)
  • ❌ Less secure, more chance of paint or bodywork damage
  • ❌ Not ideal for carbon frames or step-through bikes

🔍 Halfords “Single Bike E-Bike Boot Rack”:​

  • Rated for heavier bikes (20kg) only if the weight is well distributed
  • If using a false top tube, check:
    • It's securely locked at both ends
    • Not putting stress on the carbon top tube
    • Weight is borne by the frame joints or seat tube
⚠️ Your current Halfords false top tube (rated 15kg) is under-rated for your setup, even with the battery off.


🔧 Alternative Solutions​

✅ Upgrade the Crossbar Adapter

Look for a heavy-duty crossbar adaptor:

  • Thule 982XT or Saris Bike Beam
    • Rated closer to 20–25kg
    • Designed for heavier, step-through, or carbon-frame bikes

✅ Search for a Platform-Style Boot Rack

These are rare but exist:

  • Example: Peruzzo Arezzo E-Bike Boot Rack (sometimes found used)
  • Has platform arms, avoids frame clamping

✅ Inside the Car — But Cleaner

  • Use a bike bag (e.g. Thule RoundTrip or Evoc Bike Bag) to carry the bike inside, protecting your interior
  • Lay down waterproof sheeting or a roof box (if you already have bars)

💡 Best Budget-Conscious Strategy​

If you’re not ready for a towbar:

  1. Upgrade to a stronger top tube adaptor.
  2. Consider the Halfords single e-bike rack if you're comfortable with the load distribution and secure strapping.
  3. Keep an eye out for a used towbar rack + fitting kit online—savings can be significant.
  4. If you’re often transporting the bike muddy, investing in a bike cover or inside storage solution might reduce the hassle.
Would you like help identifying boot racks rated for e-bikes that are compatible with your Fabia?
 
Fitting a towball is expensive.

However, BuzzRack make quality tow bar mounted racks for way way less than Thule etc - I've been using mine flawlessly for years, and my friends have them also.

I have the E-Scorpion XL and it carried two full fat ebikes with ease.
 
Those strap on racks are an accident waiting to happen. DO NOT stick a heavy e bike on to one.

Do it properly. Get s tow bar and a proper bike rack.

And Or sell your car and buy a better suited car that already has a tow bar.

You have an expensive carbon e bike. Spend an appropriate amount of money on a solid an secure solution.
 
Thanks for all the replies chaps, I thought this would be the case.

I'll have a look into the suggested racks and get some proper quotes for tow-bar fitting to work out rough costs.
Convenience is going to cost 😆
 
I always tend to fit my own towbars. Essentially it is a heavy piece of Meccano. Look for one that doesn't require bumper cuts on the PFJones website.

You will also need an electrics kit. A plug and play one is best. Forget about scotchblocking on bypass relays. Even a P&p one will need the car coding to tell you that it has been fitted. Your local garage/towbar fitter should be able to do this for anything from a packet of biscuits to a £50ish fee.

Fully fitted towbar to my Vauxhall Combo was about £300, including the electrics and the coding. Physical fitting took 2-3 hours, including the electrics.
 
I suspect that in Europe what is called a 'towbar' is a trailer hitch in North America? When I got eBikes I repurposed our non eBike rated cheap Swagman hitch mounted bike rack to carry eBikes by transferring bike weight to the roof rails using ratcheting cargo straps. Used that system for over 5 years with no issues. So we recently bought a trailer hitch for my spouse's Nissan Rogue for $200.00, installed it ourselfs, and bought a used Yakima carrier for another $200.00. Luckily here you do not need to wire anything if the lights are not obstructed, although you are not supposed to obscure the license plate in any way that makes it unreadable so I move it to the back of the rack. I did return to a trailhead parking lot once to find our rack pretzeled up into the air after someone backed into it so I usually leave a traffic cone on top of one of the retainer bars up in the air.
 
I use this.

IMG_3101.jpeg IMG_1088.jpeg IMG_1087.jpeg IMG_1084.jpeg
 
I have an easyfold as well and I think it is the best option. Previously had an older euroclassic which didn't fold which was sturdy enough just a bit more of a pain to take on and off. Folding ones are great for just chucking in your boot as well.

Tailgate/boot racks can obscure lights/reg plates and I'd be paranoid of going over a bump and damaging something.

Roof racks are very convenient and quick, downsides are fuel economy, height restrictions and weight limits tend to be lower, as above I had a Yakima Highroad which felt very sturdy and didnt clamp onto the frame but you'd need a SL to avoid the weight limit.

Unfortunately none of it is cheap, even if you go second hand. Could always get a worx hydroshot or similar and clean it properly before chucking it in the boot.
 
Agree 100% with the towbar option. I struggled for ages but never looked back.
I have Volvo branded one (Thule actually ). One other point is that you may have to tell your insurers that you have a tow bar fitted even if you don’t tow. An article in the paper about someone who had a claim thrown out for not declaring the tow bar. The accident had nothing to do with the tow bar but was considered a modification which must be declared to some insurers.
 
In the US, the tow bar setup is very popular. My Mercedes M-Class is factory-equipped with a massive hitch (2in, 10,000 lbs) and I bought a bike rack that can support 4 bikes on Amazon for $250 (example here: Amazon.com). Not Thule or Yakima quality but super happy so far. The only difference with big name brands is that it requires a wrench/socket for installation. Big name brands use clips/tool-less systems.

1000009507.png
 
Another vote for towbar and proper carrier. I too was in this situation as I used to pity Megawatt on the roof rack Thule carrier but I was told by a few people that I trust that the bike was going to be over the weight limit for the carrier(plus it was a pain getting it up there). It didn’t help that I have seen bikes come off these carriers before.

So I bit the bullet and had a towbar fitted and got a Thule easyfold 3 - 2 bike carrier. This one has rubber straps to go round the frame instead of clamps, I thought it would be better for a chunky frame. It’s a much safer option for the bike (and my back).
 
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This adapter
1748734666559.png

This rack
1748734863962.png

I have used this rack and fitted properly. There is no way it's coming off the car. But I would just get a proper blanket for the back of the car. My expensive EBikes only ever ride in the car. I'd prefer to put the kids on the rack ....... :ROFLMAO:
 
I always tend to fit my own towbars. Essentially it is a heavy piece of Meccano. Look for one that doesn't require bumper cuts on the PFJones website.

You will also need an electrics kit. A plug and play one is best. Forget about scotchblocking on bypass relays. Even a P&p one will need the car coding to tell you that it has been fitted. Your local garage/towbar fitter should be able to do this for anything from a packet of biscuits to a £50ish fee.

Fully fitted towbar to my Vauxhall Combo was about £300, including the electrics and the coding. Physical fitting took 2-3 hours, including the electrics.
I think that it is illegal to install your own towbar, at least in the EU. You have to add the towbar to the registration papers for your vehicle and that can only be done when the towbar has been installed by a specialised shop. Otherwise it's not road legal.

There are also various types of installation, I opted for "factory like" installation, because then the parking sensors get disabled when you plug in the carrier. And I also wanted a vertical tow ball that is invisible when not in use. If you don't care about any of that, you can have it legally installed for around 500 eur, or even less perhaps.
The carrier I chose the Thule Epos 2 because it can fold very nicely (I live in a small apartment, so storage space is a luxury I don't have). It also has straps instead of clamps for much better securing. You can find used carriers or buy some non folding one for below 500e as well.
 
The way to go is put up with the hassle of transporting it in the car, or just go the whole hog and get a bar and rack.

With the rear hatch mounted racks, you’re likely to still need a rear lighting board anyway, if any part of the bike you’re transporting is obscuring any of the lights or number plate, by the time you’ve paid for that you may as well get the tow bar fitted.

It’s not illegal here in the UK to fit your own tow bar, but technically speaking the car should be type approved for towing (which most ICE vehicles are to be fair) if you‘re actually towing, but even if it isn’t fitting a bar and rack purely for transporting a bike on a carrier is ok as well, if you can find one that can be fitted.

I obtained written confirmation of this from DVLA when I had a tow bar and rack fitted to an e-Golf I owned that didn’t have type approval for towing, but the fitting points were there under the bumper and a standard Golf one fitted.
 
Thanks again for all the info and suggestions, chaps.

I've been doing a little research and I think you're all right that a tow-bar and rack is the way to go for peace of mind and convenience, considering it will be used for long journeys 200-400 miles plus.

I've found a few options from PF Jones, and I've looked into videos of fitting one (I've read it's legal in the UK) which I'm fairly confident I could do, though the wiring looks more daunting.

I need to research some more options, but the buzz rack e-scorpion looks like an affordable and good piece of kit.
So if I can manage to fit myself, It may be achievable for around £500

Two options for the tow bar are "flanged" or "swan neck"
I'm not sure what the benefits of either are, and which should I look into getting?

Cheers
 

IMO, what's more important/relevant is the choice of detachable or not 🤷‍♂️
I've chosen detachable for the Up and our Qashqai's towbar is also detachable as we prefer the look. However YMMV 🤔
 
I think that it is illegal to install your own towbar, at least in the EU. You have to add the towbar to the registration papers for your vehicle and that can only be done when the towbar has been installed by a specialised shop. Otherwise it's not road legal.

There are also various types of installation, I opted for "factory like" installation, because then the parking sensors get disabled when you plug in the carrier. And I also wanted a vertical tow ball that is invisible when not in use. If you don't care about any of that, you can have it legally installed for around 500 eur, or even less perhaps.
The carrier I chose the Thule Epos 2 because it can fold very nicely (I live in a small apartment, so storage space is a luxury I don't have). It also has straps instead of clamps for much better securing. You can find used carriers or buy some non folding one for below 500e as well.
That is very interesting to know. In the Canadian jurisdiction where we are you can do your own. In fact we had to do so after the 'U-Haul' shop could not do it on our Nissan Rogue. Also you do not have to install electronics unless you block the lights or haul a trailer. Your license plate cannot be blocked although it seems they never enforce that rule. Poor mechanical work is supposed to be covered by roadside inspections. Therefore, if your hitch is found to be 'unsecured' (EG: wobbly), you can be ticketed or the vehicle could be impounded. Your licence plate is supposed to be illuminated if you move it to the back of your bike rack, but I've gotten away with it for 20 years in spite of carrying a clip-on goose-neck battery operated light just in case.

Moving the license plate back and forth when you decide to use the bike rack is a real PITA, I wish we were allowed to have 2 license plates so I could eliminate that problem.
 
I obtained written confirmation of this from DVLA when I had a tow bar and rack fitted to an e-Golf I owned that didn’t have type approval for towing, but the fitting points were there under the bumper and a standard Golf one fitted.

Would you mind sharing a PDF of it?
My Tesla Model 3 doesn't have type approval for towing (it came from factory without the towbar) but I'm considering fitting one just for a bike rack (no mods required, everything is there under the bumper if I buy the OEM towbar). So above would be helpful 'just in case'
 
Would you mind sharing a PDF of it?
My Tesla Model 3 doesn't have type approval for towing (it came from factory without the towbar) but I'm considering fitting one just for a bike rack (no mods required, everything is there under the bumper if I buy the OEM towbar). So above would be helpful 'just in case'

Sure, my personal details redacted! 👍

I would advise dropping an email to the DfT for the very latest advice on it, there may have been case law or some other legislation that has come in the last few years, but I think it’s still the case that you only need type approval for towing if you’re actually towing.

If you can mount the tow ball hitch properly and safely, same as if you had a rear hatch mount rack, then you should be on solid ground.
 

Attachments

Many thanks @Tooks (y)

Which email address did you use to contact DfT so I can get their latest advice on this topic? Was it [email protected]?

I sent my original enquiry to DVSA, but they advised that DfT would need to respond as it’s more in their area and they forwarded it on, but the one you’ve got should work ok.

You need to be clear that you only want advice on whether it’s legal to use a towbar to mount a bicycle carrier with suitable lighting board and not for towing. As your car isn’t type approved for towing, and presumably doesn’t have a trailer load rating on the VIN plate, then that’s unambiguous.

Good luck! 😊👍
 
I think that it is illegal to install your own towbar, at least in the EU. You have to add the towbar to the registration papers for your vehicle and that can only be done when the towbar has been installed by a specialised shop. Otherwise it's not road legal.

......................
It might just be a Croatian requirement. I have fitted tow-bars to cars both before and after we left the EU and it wasn't a problem. I never came across this requirement.

OK, I used a specialist tow-bar fitting company each time, but none of them ever mentioned it. The only bit of admin I came across was having to tell my insurance company that I had a tow-bar. They charged me an extra £10. When I asked why, they said that cars with tow-bars carry expensive stuff on them that gets damaged when hit from the rear. The forces are also transmitted more robustly to the car and the car itself sustains more damage. The tow-bar also damages the vehicle that hits them (or is hit when reversing into another vehicle).
 
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