Other JUST DROPPED: All-new Slash+ e-MTB

In case anyone's interested - UK Warranty process for a new motor

Coming up to 8 weeks since I dropped the bike off for warranty now, waiting on a part from Trek (power cable on back order apparently, they already have the TQ60 motor apparently). Showing on system to be delivered this week (to Trek of course who then have to post it to my LBS, who then have to fit it).

So it not my LBS or TQ being shit, its Trek being utterly shit.

Trek owners in the group I bike with have also said Trek have been ultra slow and shit with warranty recently too.

Absolute shit show.
 
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Another day, another issue with the Slash+.
The cable port in the downtube has fallen out of my bike whilst pedalling around the block.
I found the cable port, with the little gold insert still attached. It would seem it sits inside the cable tray, and because it's may of brittle plastic. It's broken.
Fortunately only £9.99 for a replacement part, but I'm getting pretty tired of misc small issues on this bike.
Have I just been unlucky?
 
ThatGuy said:
Another day, another issue with the Slash+.
The cable port in the downtube has fallen out of my bike whilst pedalling around the block.
I found the cable port, with the little gold insert still attached. It would seem it sits inside the cable tray, and because it's may of brittle plastic. It's broken.
Fortunately only £9.99 for a replacement part, but I'm getting pretty tired of misc small issues on this bike.
Have I just been unlucky?
Click to expand...
I've not experienced anything like that so far, I have only had the bike for 2-3 weeks though.
I did find it particularly annoying that when I changed my brakes and ran a new hose through that every.single.bolt attaching something is different, different allan key size heads, then a torx or 2 :rolleyes:
 
Appears I may have broken something else removing the battery tray also.
Add it to the list.
Bash guard made of cheese, that is only replacable with an entire lower pulley, at £50 each.
The handlebar remote has broken and spins freely. (Bike has never been crashed (yet ))
Dropping chains on rollback is pretty annoying.
Bearings take in and store water as they are not well protected from the elements (UK Rider)
The weird bottom out crack sound.
If it didn't ride as well as it did, I'd of sold it already.
 
ThatGuy said:
If it didn't ride as well as it did, I'd of sold it already.
Click to expand...

Lol, that's how I feel about mine.

Sash+ rides so well I am considering selling a Demo and Enduro and replacing with a regular Slash.

Would love to know what this bottom out crack sound you have actually is.

FWIW my bearings have been fine through a Surrey winter, aside from the upper idler which for some reason has no protection.
 
mike172 said:
Lol, that's how I feel about mine.

Sash+ rides so well I am considering selling a Demo and Enduro and replacing with a regular Slash.

Would love to know what this bottom out crack sound you have actually is.

FWIW my bearings have been fine through a Surrey winter, aside from the upper idler which for some reason has no protection.
Click to expand...
Loud crack sound I heard multiple times on first few rides. I since removed shock and linkage hardware, retorqued everything up to spec following Trek's order, regreased some dry pivots and haven't experienced it since.
The cheap parts on this bike shock me so much, it's like it wasn't meant to be used for serious riding.
Bearing wise, after the first wet ride, I removed the bearing covers on the linkages to find standing water and surface rust.
I was stunned to say the least, but hopefully some overzealous greasing has solved this.
Selling wise... the second hand market is so poor is barely worth selling anyway - So kinda stuck.

Be very interested if anyone in the UK could point me to a replacement bashguard, (UK based)
 
ThatGuy said:
Loud crack sound I heard multiple times on first few rides. I since removed shock and linkage hardware, retorqued everything up to spec following Trek's order, regreased some dry pivots and haven't experienced it since.
The cheap parts on this bike shock me so much, it's like it wasn't meant to be used for serious riding.
Bearing wise, after the first wet ride, I removed the bearing covers on the linkages to find standing water and surface rust.
I was stunned to say the least, but hopefully some overzealous greasing has solved this.
Selling wise... the second hand market is so poor is barely worth selling anyway - So kinda stuck.

Be very interested if anyone in the UK could point me to a replacement bashguard, (UK based)
Click to expand...

Mine came direct from trek, W5319609, if that's what you're talking about? Its a bit of a joke, not entirely sure what its purpose is given how it mounts to the bike.

I bought mine thinking that lower idler was bent, turns out its meant to be. FYI.

I greased everything soon as I got it, loads of problems where things were not greased, not torqued properly, motor spacers not set properly.
 
ThatGuy said:
Loud crack sound I heard multiple times on first few rides. I since removed shock and linkage hardware, retorqued everything up to spec following Trek's order, regreased some dry pivots and haven't experienced it since.
The cheap parts on this bike shock me so much, it's like it wasn't meant to be used for serious riding.
Bearing wise, after the first wet ride, I removed the bearing covers on the linkages to find standing water and surface rust.
I was stunned to say the least, but hopefully some overzealous greasing has solved this.
Selling wise... the second hand market is so poor is barely worth selling anyway - So kinda stuck.

Be very interested if anyone in the UK could point me to a replacement bashguard, (UK based)
Click to expand...
The crack sound is movement/settling in the lower shock mount.

The bolt is slightly under sized for the bushing in the shock which allows a degree of movement. Trek service manual states to torque all the various suspension fasteners with the bike on the ground (not in the workstand) for exactly this reason, so that the suspension is already settled in the correct positions. If you torque them with the bike in the workstand then they all settle into position on the first ride with a crack as everything shifts.

Have A read of my earlier posts a couple of weeks ago
 
Last edited:
mike172 said:
Mine came direct from trek, W5319609, if that's what you're talking about? Its a bit of a joke, not entirely sure what its purpose is given how it mounts to the bike.

I bought mine thinking that lower idler was bent, turns out its meant to be. FYI.

I greased everything soon as I got it, loads of problems where things were not greased, not torqued properly, motor spacers not set properly.
Click to expand...
Aye, I've replaced the same part, as the plastic bash guard underneath broke.
I put it down to poor suspension settings allowing it to get near bottom out.
I replaced, fitted new, suspension running firmer and not near bottom out, and broke it again the very next ride.
 
Hi everyone,

I could really use some technical advice.

My bike has suddenly developed a really bad creaking/cracking noise. I can reproduce it by pushing the crank inwards or outwards (see the video), but only when the crank is roughly between the 6 and 9 o'clock position. The noise sounds metallic.

At first I suspected the motor mount, crank, or pedal. By now I've completely stripped and reassembled the entire rear triangle, shock, motor, crankset, and pedals. Everything was cleaned, greased where appropriate, inspected, adjusted, and torqued to spec. I also measured and adjusted the motor compensation screws. All parts look perfectly normal. I've even tried different crank arms, but the noise is exactly the same.

What's strange is that you can clearly feel the "click" through the crank and the crank bolt when it happens. Apart from this issue, the motor works perfectly with no other symptoms.

Has anyone experienced something similar or has any ideas what else I should check?

--> Link to Video
 
Enduro said:
What's strange is that you can clearly feel the "click" through the crank and the crank bolt when it happens. Apart from this issue, the motor works perfectly with no other symptoms.

--> Link to Video
Click to expand...
Helpful video, seems to rule out many variables. I'd think that's got to be down to your motor or cranks - if you've already cleaned/adjusted/greased the motor comp bolts.

Do you get the same creak when pressing on the DS crankarm? If so that would eliminate the cranks.
 
You're right—I forgot to mention that I also performed the test with different crank arms. The problem remains exactly the same.

I can also reproduce it on the drive side, although it's less pronounced and requires noticeably more force. Interestingly, the click still occurs when the non-drive side crank is in roughly the 6 to 9 o'clock position.

I went for a short ride today, and after about 2 km of climbing, the noise gradually became much quieter. By then, the motor was noticeably warm.

I'm curious to see if the noise comes back tomorrow when everything is cold again.
 
Points for troubleshooting and documenting so well, covered off pretty well everything I suspect people would suggest. Seems to point towards a motor issue. At this point, i'd be going in to a dealer with said documented info/troubleshooting steps so they can get in touch with Trek.
 
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