Other JUST DROPPED: All-new Slash+ e-MTB

RTFM...

frenchy said:

I would say linear is front, and rear is progessive

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Correct. It's buried at the very end of the service manual!

Mteam said:

Does anyone know how many tokens are inside the fox 38 170mm rhythm fork that comes standard on the slash+ 9.7?

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Two on a small with 27.5 wheel.

Emailsucks98 said:

It seems like many Slash+ owners have experienced this, but nobody agrees on the cause. My hunch is that the "linear" shock setting is closer to digressive.

People are reporting this with different drive trains and shocks, so that reduces the variables other than the frame.

In my case, it also happened on my 1st ride on the bike, 1yr ago, on a very small drop, with an aftermarket vivid air & 30% sag. I added air and HBO and was fine on the rest of that ride (which did include some bottom outs, just no more loud cracking sounds). Afterwards I added 2 volume spacers and went back to 30% sag, it's been fine since.

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I've had a few more rides now, and the noise hasn't recurred, so not sure what it was, but it seems fine now.

Quite liking the magic carpet ride from the rear suspension, allows you to maintain so much speed through rough bits.

Current weight is just over 21kg with pedals.

I Don't think I could get it much lighter without switching to unsuitable tyres,although the t type 70 mech and cassette are pretty weighty, but they do shift very well.

I Will wear the cassette out then decide whether to just buy the same again, or go for a lighter shimano xt setup.

Pretty pleased with the bike, it's good to be back on a big travel enduro bike after a few years on the fuel exe.

I need to decide whether to buy an end cap to allow me to run the 360wh battery from the exe, or whether in reality I would never use it.

It's great to have the options of 160wh,360wh,580wh, or 740wh battery capacities.

Mteam said:

Pretty pleased with the bike, it's good to be back on a big travel enduro bike after a few years on the fuel exe.

I need to decide whether to buy an end cap to allow me to run the 360wh battery from the exe, or whether in reality I would never use it.

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Let's see some pics!

Mine just got warrantied into an HPR60. I'm (again) really impressed with the warranty/support through my local Trek store. Haven't ridden just yet, recovering from an ankle sprain.

For me the main use of the 360 battery is road trips, where I can go multiple rides without charging by swapping batteries. We have a camper with solar/inverter that can charge one battery while I ride the other. My partner (with a fixed battery Botsch) is envious of the removable battery.

Emailsucks98 said:

Let's see some pics!

Mine just got warrantied into an HPR60. I'm (again) really impressed with the warranty/support through my local Trek store. Haven't ridden just yet, recovering from an ankle sprain.

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f me, over 1x month waiting for my warranty claim now.

I think they hate me.

Emailsucks98 said:

Let's see some pics!

Mine just got warrantied into an HPR60. I'm (again) really impressed with the warranty/support through my local Trek store. Haven't ridden just yet, recovering from an ankle sprain.

For me the main use of the 360 battery is road trips, where I can go multiple rides without charging by swapping batteries. We have a camper with solar/inverter that can charge one battery while I ride the other. My partner (with a fixed battery Botsch) is envious of the removable battery.

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Apologies for the none scenic garage shot.

It now has hope tech 4 v4 brakes fitted

Emailsucks98 said:

It seems like many Slash+ owners have experienced this, but nobody agrees on the cause. My hunch is that the "linear" shock setting is closer to digressive.

People are reporting this with different drive trains and shocks, so that reduces the variables other than the frame.

In my case, it also happened on my 1st ride on the bike, 1yr ago, on a very small drop, with an aftermarket vivid air & 30% sag. I added air and HBO and was fine on the rest of that ride (which did include some bottom outs, just no more loud cracking sounds). Afterwards I added 2 volume spacers and went back to 30% sag, it's been fine since.

Click to expand...

I think I've worked out what is causing the crack sound, I can repoduce it at will now.

So, I think the lower shock mount bolt is under sized for the eyelet of the shock, just like of the fuel exe. This means that when the bolt is not fully tight there is a bit of play between the shock eyelet and the bolt allowing the shock to move up and down. When tightened up fully this play goes away for normal suspension movement, but it is still possible to mave the shock by stronger/sharper force,and it's this movement that causes the crack sound.

What this means is that if the shock is fitted to the bike with the bike frame suspended in a work stand, the shock is clamped by the lower mount in 'high' position. Gentle bouncing on thr suspension is not enough force to allow the shock to settle into the correct position, but when you hit the first bigger hit of the ride the shock very quickly settles into the lower position with a crack sound.Once settled into this position you won't hear the crack again.

You can reproduce this by forcibly extending the rear wheel down by lifting to back end of the bike off the ground and whacking the back wheel with your hand to push the back wheel down, then drop the back end of the bike back down onto the ground and you'll hear the crack sound as the shock settles back into the correct position.

We need Pinner machine shop to produce a correctly sized bolt like they did for the fuel exe.