Pole Voima 190mm Travel EMTB

Thanks. Out of curiosity, how many miles do you have on the new transmission? Is it the original Voima or the Voima ID with the updated chainstays?

Reinstalled mine half a dozen times now, no luck. Like I said, mine worked like butter when new, now this. Reached out to SRAM yesterday but nothing yet.

Yanked it all off today and back to X01 AXS. If anybody was wondering, the T-Type chainring is absolutely compatible with Eagle. So much marketing BS…
Two rides since I changed the A to B set up so only 70kms. It's on an original Voima.

FYI I tried a non transmission eagle cassette and it worked fine with a little massaging of the micro adjust.
 
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Seems like maybe a bent tooth on the cassette. Do you have access to another cassette to see if that’s the issue? I would do that so I could eliminate that possibility. If that’s not it, then it’s the derailleur.
I wish. Transmission stuff is a little hard to come by at the moment. Friends are still on Eagle stuff laughing at my dumb ass with the fancy parts that now sound like spoons in a blender.

Hunch is it’s the derailleur. I’m on micro adjust 1 and it’s still not inboard enough to align with the cogs. Tried the cassette on 2 different wheels and it’s the same story, so I figure it’s gotta be the derailleur. Which is nuts, cause I haven’t hit anything or even laid the bike down yet.
 
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Yeah, Once you tag above 20 (32kph for me) you have a heavy slug motor resistance to try and pedal.

There is no motor resistance. You lose 100-500W of power from your legs and you are going to feel it. You need to be prepared for the cut off, drop a gear or two lower before the cut off and see it that helps. Also ride the jump line with the motor off and see how that goes.

I've ridden my ebike (Giant Reign with 15.5mph cut off) in bike parks a few times when my park ride was in the shop. I ended up leaving the motor off and actually taking the battery out. It simplified things and the bike felt really good.
 
Let’s try this another way…

Is anyone using SRAM Transmission on their Voima and NOT having issues (particularly in gear 3)?

I have micro adjust on 1 (i.e. fully inboard) and it’s still clicking like it almost wants to shift up/outboard. My derailleur clearly wants to be closer to the cassette.

I literally get better shifting if I max out micro adjust to 14 in the other direction and shift the range over by 1 (but obviously I loose gear 1 and risk dumping the chain off the cassette if I shift to gear 12).

I’m looking for some kind of spacer or something I missed (?). Cassette and derailleur clearly want to be a few mm closer together.

Stumped.

Link to video:

I am not having issues on mine, it’s running flawlessly. Perhaps a bent tooth as mentioned above.
 
Let’s try this another way…

Is anyone using SRAM Transmission on their Voima and NOT having issues (particularly in gear 3)?

I have micro adjust on 1 (i.e. fully inboard) and it’s still clicking like it almost wants to shift up/outboard. My derailleur clearly wants to be closer to the cassette.

I literally get better shifting if I max out micro adjust to 14 in the other direction and shift the range over by 1 (but obviously I loose gear 1 and risk dumping the chain off the cassette if I shift to gear 12).

I’m looking for some kind of spacer or something I missed (?). Cassette and derailleur clearly want to be a few mm closer together.

Stumped.

Link to video:

Deffo a few people have Sram transmission issues - worth reading this thread https://www.mtbr.com/threads/got-sram-transmission-got-problems-post-here.1220211 - phaps its a bit more sensitive to chain line, spacing, or axle torque? Aside from that everyone I know who has changed to it has HAD it break in some form so not convinced yet.
 
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Question to everyone that bought a Voima with the new CX race motor, was the wireless mini remote included with the bike or was it an upgrade that you had to purchase?

I was positive it was included free of charge when buying the race motor but Pole is saying it was an option. Just trying to see what your guys experience was?
 
Question to everyone that bought a Voima with the new CX race motor, was the wireless mini remote included with the bike or was it an upgrade that you had to purchase?

I was positive it was included free of charge when buying the race motor but Pole is saying it was an option. Just trying to see what your guys experience was?
Mine was an option that I paid for.
 
Deffo a few people have Sram transmission issues - worth reading this thread https://www.mtbr.com/threads/got-sram-transmission-got-problems-post-here.1220211 - phaps its a bit more sensitive to chain line, spacing, or axle torque? Aside from that everyone I know who has changed to it has HAD it break in some form so not convinced yet.
Im annoying the folks over in that thread too, trust me 😂. Yeah, just a couple months in and it’s the worst drivetrain I‘ve ever had - says something I think. I’ll let y’all know if I ever sort it out but at this point it’s off the bike and sitting on a shelf.
 
So today I did some tinkering again, "small" fork upgrade Charger 3 and air unit installed -> ZEB Select --> ZEB Ultimate :love: (y)

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Changed some wearing parts
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More this week
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There is no motor resistance. You lose 100-500W of power from your legs and you are going to feel it. You need to be prepared for the cut off, drop a gear or two lower before the cut off and see it that helps. Also ride the jump line with the motor off and see how that goes.

I've ridden my ebike (Giant Reign with 15.5mph cut off) in bike parks a few times when my park ride was in the shop. I ended up leaving the motor off and actually taking the battery out. It simplified things and the bike felt really good.
I'll have to beg to differ. There certainly is motor resistance. I can feel it when I pedal and can also feel in when I rotate the chainring by hand.

Yeah I did all those techniques for gaining as much speed as possible. The reality is +32 kph the e bike is worse than a mtb for speed and jumping. That's ok. Most of my riding of this bike isn't gondola laps on high speed jumps lines that you have to pedal for.....

Side note. If you do have to pedal that hard then the jump line isnt designed well enough.

PS motor off is not an option and battery off is possible I guess. But if I got to that stage i'd simply use one of my other mountain bikes.
 
There is no motor resistance. You lose 100-500W of power from your legs and you are going to feel it. You need to be prepared for the cut off, drop a gear or two lower before the cut off and see it that helps. Also ride the jump line with the motor off and see how that goes.

I've ridden my ebike (Giant Reign with 15.5mph cut off) in bike parks a few times when my park ride was in the shop. I ended up leaving the motor off and actually taking the battery out. It simplified things and the bike felt really good.
Been wanting to try my Voima without a battery just for kicks but worried about crap getting up into the battery bay. I think I saw that somewhere there’s a dummy cover you can buy (?).
 
Been wanting to try my Voima without a battery just for kicks but worried about crap getting up into the battery bay. I think I saw that somewhere there’s a dummy cover you can buy (?).

3d printed. I'll be honest the price is excessive and the quality of the vision velo mudguard and chain guide i just received is pretty average. I had to do some finishing of the slots ect because they hadn't bothered getting the 3d printed swarf/slag off the parts.

But its the only option i know of if you want to roll without battery.
 
I’ve got mine in B and it works great. Use the settings in the app not the ones from SRAM’s website (frustrating that they are different).

View attachment 121295
Update on this. SRAM just got back to me and said it should be in the A setup key. Also I think they have adjusted the website and app to both state A. Funny how only B works for me lol.
 
There is no motor resistance. You lose 100-500W of power from your legs and you are going to feel it. You need to be prepared for the cut off, drop a gear or two lower before the cut off and see it that helps. Also ride the jump line with the motor off and see how that goes.

I've ridden my ebike (Giant Reign with 15.5mph cut off) in bike parks a few times when my park ride was in the shop. I ended up leaving the motor off and actually taking the battery out. It simplified things and the bike felt really good.
My last ride was completely unassisted as I changed wheels and didn't swap over the rim magnet and I can 100% say there is plenty of motor resistance.
 

3d printed. I'll be honest the price is excessive and the quality of the vision velo mudguard and chain guide i just received is pretty average. I had to do some finishing of the slots ect because they hadn't bothered getting the 3d printed swarf/slag off the parts.

But its the only option i know of if you want to roll without battery.
Might try it.

Whether the resistance after the motor cuts out is friction or just actually feeling the weight of a tall gear without help is kind of irrelevant - nobody’s shifting gears 3 pedal strokes before a jump you need to be over 20mph to clear! 😂

That’s asking for a broken chain and collar bone in one basket.
 
Update on this. SRAM just got back to me and said it should be in the A setup key. Also I think they have adjusted the website and app to both state A. Funny how only B works for me lol.
Would you mind posting exactly what SRAM wrote to you?

Maybe I’m just cynical, but I have a hunch they just went to the website and regurgitated their own mistake back to you.

I’ve ordered a GX cassette for $250. If that solves the problem I’ll know it was the cassette. If it doesn’t I’ll know it’s the derailleur.

Is anyone else’s cassette SUPER hard to screw on? I’m not cross threading, promise. It’s just that the internal bushing that allows the fastener to spin is ultra stiff on my XX cassette.
 
Would you mind posting exactly what SRAM wrote to you?

Maybe I’m just cynical, but I have a hunch they just went to the website and regurgitated their own mistake back to you.

I’ve ordered a GX cassette for $250. If that solves the problem I’ll know it was the cassette. If it doesn’t I’ll know it’s the derailleur.

Is anyone else’s cassette SUPER hard to screw on? I’m not cross threading, promise. It’s just that the internal bushing that allows the fastener to spin is ultra stiff on my XX cassette.
Yes my cassette is proper tight to get on. It actually produces quite a bit of heat there is that much friction.

Here's the reply from SRAM..


Seth (SRAM (Tickets))

Aug 1, 2023, 15:01 CDT

Hello,

Thank you for reaching out! I am sorry to hear about the confusion you are experiencing between the app and website.

It looks like all models of this bike have an effective chainstay length of 455mm, is that the value you entered? I tried entering that, with a standard 32t chainring, full-suspension, and no idler pulley as options in the app and on the website and got the same results for both.
Image


iznWjWKYgl39ovlegsiJQlv41



Would you mind trying the app again with the same information to see if it lists A or B? Are the results in the app and website for the chain length the same as I found?

Please let me know if you have any further questions or if there's anything else I can assist you with.
 
Might try it.

Whether the resistance after the motor cuts out is friction or just actually feeling the weight of a tall gear without help is kind of irrelevant - nobody’s shifting gears 3 pedal strokes before a jump you need to be over 20mph to clear! 😂

That’s asking for a broken chain and collar bone in one basket.
hehehe. Yeah and at that speed you dont have 3 easier gears to shift to as you are already in the appropriate gear... For the recond I did maybe half a dozen pedal strokes with motor power then exceeded the speed limit and was non power for the entire jump 2km jump run. So its not a matter of hovering around the cut off. The speed of that track for 95% of it is well above 20mph. So techniques of accelerating before cut off only worked for the first jump. There after its all cost and non asisted pedal.

I did 15 runs that day so had time to try all sorts of variations. The challenge is 3 fold. The bike is heavy combined with resistance of motor does not allow you do go as fast as pedal bikes. I was chasing my 15 yo son and his mates. They just pulled away from me in pedal section ( i usually have a bit extra power in the tank than the groms when im on the pedal bike). The next challenge, still related to weight, you cant pop as high or as far. Some of the jumps required a decent pop to clear. For those jumps you can rely on good pop out of the bike. You have to compensate with more speed. When you cant get more speed.... no dice. The last challenge is that the 190mm sucks up the faces and reduces pop and distance achieved aswell. You actually need to be cranking faster to achieve the same distance as a slower mtb with a rider that pops.
 
There is no motor resistance. You lose 100-500W of power from your legs and you are going to feel it. You need to be prepared for the cut off, drop a gear or two lower before the cut off and see it that helps. Also ride the jump line with the motor off and see how that goes.

I've ridden my ebike (Giant Reign with 15.5mph cut off) in bike parks a few times when my park ride was in the shop. I ended up leaving the motor off and actually taking the battery out. It simplified things and the bike felt really good.
😂 That’s a hard pass for me. I’d rather derestrict and go as fast as I need to. If I want to ride analog, then I’ll just ride my regular bike. But my ebike rides so much better, I really don’t see that happening anytime soon.
 
Question to everyone that bought a Voima with the new CX race motor, was the wireless mini remote included with the bike or was it an upgrade that you had to purchase?

I was positive it was included free of charge when buying the race motor but Pole is saying it was an option. Just trying to see what your guys experience was?
It’s an extra that you have to select to get it. I did and the whole package is awesome!
 
Welp, thar she blows…

81020D16-A012-4480-816B-07D893A377A9.jpeg


This particular tooth has a groove cut across its base. If I wanted to sabotage a tooth, this is exactly what I’d do. I’ll try warranty but I’m not optimistic.
 
Let’s try this another way…

Is anyone using SRAM Transmission on their Voima and NOT having issues (particularly in gear 3)?

I have micro adjust on 1 (i.e. fully inboard) and it’s still clicking like it almost wants to shift up/outboard. My derailleur clearly wants to be closer to the cassette.

I literally get better shifting if I max out micro adjust to 14 in the other direction and shift the range over by 1 (but obviously I loose gear 1 and risk dumping the chain off the cassette if I shift to gear 12).

I’m looking for some kind of spacer or something I missed (?). Cassette and derailleur clearly want to be a few mm closer together.

Stumped.

Link to video:


Really loved my Voima while I had it, but I can say the only thing that never was right was the SRAM drivetrain. Had XX AXS (non t-type) and micro adjust never really helped, even after cassette swap and chain swap. Was either not dropping to tallest gear or was ghost shifting to upper gear. Really needed micro-adjust for each gear. Sensitive to gunk and constant chain maintenance. Not surprised T-Type even more sensitive. With my Sonni on order, I'm done with Sram and moving to Rohloff E-14 internal geared hub with Gates Belt Drive.
 
Really loved my Voima while I had it, but I can say the only thing that never was right was the SRAM drivetrain. Had XX AXS (non t-type) and micro adjust never really helped, even after cassette swap and chain swap. Was either not dropping to tallest gear or was ghost shifting to upper gear. Really needed micro-adjust for each gear. Sensitive to gunk and constant chain maintenance. Not surprised T-Type even more sensitive. With my Sonni on order, I'm done with Sram and moving to Rohloff E-14 internal geared hub with Gates Belt Drive.
Interesting. We’ll probably be drooling over the new Pole’s with Pinion gearbox motors in a year’s time anyways 🤣. Always something new to chase.
 
Yes my cassette is proper tight to get on. It actually produces quite a bit of heat there is that much friction.

Here's the reply from SRAM..


Seth (SRAM (Tickets))

Aug 1, 2023, 15:01 CDT

Hello,

Thank you for reaching out! I am sorry to hear about the confusion you are experiencing between the app and website.

It looks like all models of this bike have an effective chainstay length of 455mm, is that the value you entered? I tried entering that, with a standard 32t chainring, full-suspension, and no idler pulley as options in the app and on the website and got the same results for both.
Image


iznWjWKYgl39ovlegsiJQlv41



Would you mind trying the app again with the same information to see if it lists A or B? Are the results in the app and website for the chain length the same as I found?

Please let me know if you have any further questions or if there's anything else I can assist you with.
What should I do now? I want to install my GX today.
I get setup key A both in the app and on the website but Rob has installed with Key B :unsure:
 
Interesting. We’ll probably be drooling over the new Pole’s with Pinion gearbox motors in a year’s time anyways 🤣. Always something new to chase.
As much as I like the new Pinion gearbox motor, they are too niche to garner easy access service support (and dependency on obscure battery tech) , unlike Bosch which has a major international service and support footprint. Not until we see the likes of Bosch itself, SRAM, and Shimano get into the motor-gearbox fray, would I chase it (Shimano has the earliest shot since they do both geared hubs and motors). I've have had a Rohloff for 8 years now and it's been flawless and we all know the Bosch PCX is the best motor out there for emtb.
 
Welp, thar she blows…

View attachment 121649

This particular tooth has a groove cut across its base. If I wanted to sabotage a tooth, this is exactly what I’d do. I’ll try warranty but I’m not optimistic.


This is the new unbreakable can shift under full load robocop finger electric sram? if so theres a case for warrantee.
If the derailieur is auto adjusting and can shift under load how is a tooth broken off?

Side note. If warrantee is rejected i'd try to file the daggy bits of that tooth and see if you can ride it filed. It might work enough to get more miles out of it.
 
What should I do now? I want to install my GX today.
I get setup key A both in the app and on the website but Rob has installed with Key B :unsure:
Return it and get the “old” Eagle AXS LOL.

Kidding… kinda. Was in the LBS today and owner has just had their first Transmission-equipped sale (Gorgeous Pivot Firebird) come back after a few weeks with the same gear 3 issues, crappy shifting in general, plus a broken chain.

Apparently owner is also a big guy 220lbs so I hear. Maybe if Transmission is allergic to high torque individuals.

To stop this derailment and answer your actual question I’d try it both ways in the stand and see which seems smoother.
 
Yes my cassette is proper tight to get on. It actually produces quite a bit of heat there is that much friction.

Here's the reply from SRAM..


Seth (SRAM (Tickets))

Aug 1, 2023, 15:01 CDT

Hello,

Thank you for reaching out! I am sorry to hear about the confusion you are experiencing between the app and website.

It looks like all models of this bike have an effective chainstay length of 455mm, is that the value you entered? I tried entering that, with a standard 32t chainring, full-suspension, and no idler pulley as options in the app and on the website and got the same results for both.
Image


iznWjWKYgl39ovlegsiJQlv41



Would you mind trying the app again with the same information to see if it lists A or B? Are the results in the app and website for the chain length the same as I found?

Please let me know if you have any further questions or if there's anything else I can assist you with.

Weird, I’m just setting up my GX Transmission and it’s telling me I need a 122links with my chain.
IMG_4373.jpeg
 
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