SRAM T-type failure across all transmission type e-bikes

[steve_sordy]

Before you put e*13 on too high a pedestal, keep in mind that there are other issues of e*13 components being off tolerance and causing issues with loosening - notably some of their carbon eMTB cranks. I personally wouldn't assume that this isn't the case here as well - keep an open mind.

I agree completely. I wasn't aware that I was putting them on a pedestal. What I was praising was the response by e13, which has been very supportive and very quick, both to me and to the Sherwood Pines Cycles, the Santa Cruz dealer involved, which is fair.

The reason that I was able to get straight through the the global head of support for e13 so quickly was that he contacted me earlier this year and I had his email address. There was a thread earlier this year, something like "what hub would you recommend?". I responded that whatever you choose don't make it an e13 one and gave details of why. Basically four hub failures all under warranty. Oh and a e13 chain device on a 2x that caused more chain hang ups than anything else. Once removed, the front rings and chain worked perfectly. I didn't do warrnaty claim, I just removed it and sold it on eBay. In addition, I am aware of the various problems that other e13 products have had, all of which fed my "anything but e13" mindset.

Anyway, the USA e13 guy contacted me and asked for more details. I provided them chapter and verse, etc. All of this was reported on here. Since that first problem, I have never bought any e13 product. What I have had has always come as standard with a new bike. So, the first e13 hub since the last one and what happened! In some frustration and a lot of irritation, but politely of course, I emailed the guy at e13 in the USofA. You have read the rest.

I remain to be convinced about the cause of the problem. It could be the hub, but the odds are against it. It seems more logical that the cassette is in the clear. Cassette fitting of course could also be a culprit. E13 are adamant that they are in the clear and that my case is not the first (the ninth in fact, although I don't know over what timescale that is measured). They have not shared any reasons as to why they are convinced, just work that they have done.

They continue to be supportive. I don't know if they had any influence on the decision by Sherwood Pines Cycles to lend me a rear wheel for as long as I need it. But their UK guy they told me that they are committed to getting me back on the trail asap.

 

[steve_sordy]

Heck....

a cassette should last 1000 miles ...more if it was T Type. Serious questions to be asked why that was needed.

I believe that it is all just part of the sales hype. I didn't look a gift horse in the mouth, I just said "OK, nice".

 

[Mikerb]

I believe that it is all just part of the sales hype. I didn't look a gift horse in the mouth, I just said "OK, nice".

no....a shop demo bike has either just been a display bike or one that a few prospective buyers have done a few short rides probably just on tarmac. A brand demo bike could have been used at shows etc. Either way the cassette would not need replacing. It suggests it was damaged in which case the chain should also have been changed. Personally I would not buy a demo bike.....and in your case I suggest you return the bike as not fit for purpose.

 

[Pyr0]

I don't have much experience or miles with T-Type (this amflow is the first bike I've had with it) but I hope there's not an issue with the cassettes.
My setup may be slightly different though as I'm running dt swiss wheels with a HG freehub and xs-1270 cassette.

 

[Mikerb]

I believe that it is all just part of the sales hype. I didn't look a gift horse in the mouth, I just said "OK, nice".

no....a shop demo bike has either just been a display bike or one that a few prospective buyers have done a few short rides probably just on tarmac. A brand demo bike could have been used at shows etc. Either way the cassette would not need replacing. It suggests it was damaged in which case the chain should also have been changed. Personally I would not buy a demo bike.....and in your case I suggest you return the bike as not fit for purpose.

I don't have much experience with T-Type (this amflow is the first bike I've had with it) but I hope there's not an issue with the cassettes.
My setup may be slightly different though as I'm running dt swiss wheels with a HG freehub and xs-1270 cassette.

You are bullet proof mate!!

 

[steve_sordy]

no....a shop demo bike has either just been a display bike or one that a few prospective buyers have done a few short rides probably just on tarmac. A brand demo bike could have been used at shows etc. Either way the cassette would not need replacing. It suggests it was damaged in which case the chain should also have been changed. Personally I would not buy a demo bike.....and in your case I suggest you return the bike as not fit for purpose.

.................

Maybe the cassette and chain just no longer looked new! The chain was also replaced, along with new saddle and grips and a new rear tyre. As I said the bike was immaculate and it came with a full two-year warranty plus the usual Santa Cruz lifetime warrnty on frame bearings and rims. I will not be returning the bike as no longer fit for purpose. I was aware of what I was buying and I thought it was a bargain.

 

[steve_sordy]

I had a couple of emails from the head of support in the UK, the guy that spoke to the mechanic and others at Sherwood Pines Cycles.

First one dated 24th Jun'26

Hi Steve, Joe here from e*thirteen UK. Firstly, I'm sorry to hear you've experienced this issue, especially so soon after purchasing the bike. I've spoken directly with Darren at Sherwood Pines and discussed the situation in more detail following Chris's assessment. From the information available, the issue appears to have originated from the cassette assembly loosening and subsequently causing damage to the driver assembly. Whilst the root cause does not appear to be with the hub itself, we're more than willing to help where we can and support Sherwood Pines in getting you back up and running as quickly as possible. At this stage, Sherwood Pines will be carrying out the inspection and repair work, so they will be the best source of updates regarding progress. I'll continue to support them from our side and assist with any parts requirements as needed. If you have any questions in the meantime, please don't hesitate to get in touch. Kind regards,

(Darren is the mechanic that dealt with my issue in the first place.)

Second one, same date, 4 hours later

Hey Steve, ............ Like Sherwood Pines we value riders, and we want you get back on the trails asap. One Thing I did mention to Darren, ........... We would be happy to explore upgrading you on to a Sidekick Hub . We would offer you a 50% discount as a good will gesture to make this easier, and it's a perfect opportunity to make the upgrade while the wheel is in the workshop. I'm not sure what Sram will offer, In the early days of this fault occurring we were taking full responsibility as we couldn’t identify what was causing the fault. This included paying for the labour of wheel rebuild and also paying for the new cassette on top of supplying a new hub free of charge. I'm not certain on what stance Sram will take but from the 8 case's we have had we have not had a repeat of the fault once a new cassette was fitted...... I'm glad you will be able to ride relatively soon. Keep in touch.

My case is number nine. And for the record, I politely rejected the offer of 50% off a Sidekick hub.

 

[Mikerb]

I had a couple of emails from the head of support in the UK, the guy that spoke to the mechanic and others at Sherwood Pines Cycles.

First one dated 24th Jun'26

Hi Steve, Joe here from e*thirteen UK. Firstly, I'm sorry to hear you've experienced this issue, especially so soon after purchasing the bike. I've spoken directly with Darren at Sherwood Pines and discussed the situation in more detail following Chris's assessment. From the information available, the issue appears to have originated from the cassette assembly loosening and subsequently causing damage to the driver assembly. Whilst the root cause does not appear to be with the hub itself, we're more than willing to help where we can and support Sherwood Pines in getting you back up and running as quickly as possible. At this stage, Sherwood Pines will be carrying out the inspection and repair work, so they will be the best source of updates regarding progress. I'll continue to support them from our side and assist with any parts requirements as needed. If you have any questions in the meantime, please don't hesitate to get in touch. Kind regards,

(Darren is the mechanic that dealt with my issue in the first place.)

Second one, same date, 4 hours later

Hey Steve, ............ Like Sherwood Pines we value riders, and we want you get back on the trails asap. One Thing I did mention to Darren, ........... We would be happy to explore upgrading you on to a Sidekick Hub . We would offer you a 50% discount as a good will gesture to make this easier, and it's a perfect opportunity to make the upgrade while the wheel is in the workshop. I'm not sure what Sram will offer, In the early days of this fault occurring we were taking full responsibility as we couldn’t identify what was causing the fault. This included paying for the labour of wheel rebuild and also paying for the new cassette on top of supplying a new hub free of charge. I'm not certain on what stance Sram will take but from the 8 case's we have had we have not had a repeat of the fault once a new cassette was fitted...... I'm glad you will be able to ride relatively soon. Keep in touch.

My case is number nine. And for the record, I politely rejected the offer of 50% off a Sidekick hub.

So e13 have had 8 failures. None failed again when a new cassette was fitted....well you had a new cassette and it failed. They are being super attentive but is that all about protecting their brand? Then they offered you a discount on a better hub!! So what is less good about the one you have?

 

[Swingset]

Cassette loosened on me. I9 hub. No damage.

 

[Mikerb]

I dont know the Santa Cruz range of bkkes but it looks like the Vala is fitted with SRAM XS 1270 cassette. So T Type compatable with a splined freehub. Installation and servicing is therefore different to non T Type and TType fitted to a XD freehub ( 1275 cassettes).
Allowing grease or dirt on the area of the freehub that has factory applied locktite ...or even worse actually putting grease there......is likely to lead to the locknut loosening. I suspect that could be the issue here. SRAM recommend re- applying loctite there if tbe cassette has been removed more than 5 times.
I have both variations , XS 1275 on my Whyte E160 and XS 1270 on my Whyte Elyte EVO.

 

[Zzzzz8]

I dont know the Santa Cruz range of bkkes but it looks like the Vala is fitted with SRAM XS 1270 cassette. So T Type compatable with a splined freehub. Installation and servicing is therefore different to non T Type and TType fitted to a XD freehub ( 1275 cassettes).
Allowing grease or dirt on the area of the freehub that has factory applied locktite ...or even worse actually putting grease there......is likely to lead to the locknut loosening. I suspect that could be the issue here. SRAM recommend re- applying loctite there if tbe cassette has been removed more than 5 times.
I have both variations , XS 1275 on my Whyte E160 and XS 1270 on my Whyte Elyte EVO.

If the cassette had come loose, surely you would have noticed by the noise it was making? They generally cream horribly if they're not torqued properly.

 

[Zzzzz8]

If the cassette had come loose, surely you would have noticed by the noise it was making? They generally cream horribly if they're not torqued properly.

Creak, not cream!

 

[Mikerb]

Creak, not cream!

If grease had been applied on a splined freehub on the threadlocked threads, just vibration would loosen the locknut and the rider would not notice if freewheeling until it was time to pedal again. The chain would then drag the cassette onto the frame

 

[Mikerb]

If grease had been applied on a splined freehub on the threadlocked threads, just vibration would loosen the locknut and the rider would not notice if freewheeling until it was time to pedal again. The chain would then drag the cassette onto the frame

I think the difference here is that the threads on an XG type freehub are on the outside of the freehub body and there are more of them. Whereas the threads on splined frerhub are inside the outer section of the freehub body and the depth is therefore limited.
You grease the threads on an XG freehub otherwise you may not get to the right torque due to binding. On the splined frerhub the threads are factory threadlocked and they need to be clean and free of any grease.......and threadlock needs to be re-applied once locknut has been removed a few times.

 

[steve_sordy]

.................... Then they offered you a discount on a better hub!! So what is less good about the one you have?

I have not said that the offered hub is less good than my current hub. It's all about what it is used for and who it is best for. After reviewing information on the two hubs, I decided to politely refuse their offer. The Sidekick hub was not for me.

I had never heard of the Sidekick hub, so I used Google Gemini. This is a much abbreviated version.
The Sidekick is an anti-kickback decoupling hub built to isolate suspension movement from your drivetrain, while the e*spec series consists of reinforced, high-engagement traditional hubs built strictly to handle the punishing torque and weight loads of E-mountain bikes.
Intended Use Cases

• Go with the e*spec (SL) if your main concerns are instantaneous power transfer on technical climbs, absolute raw drivetrain durability under heavy e-bike motor torque, and avoiding any "slack" or lag in your pedal stroke before the hub grabs the wheel.

• Go with the Sidekick if you want maximum downhill momentum, maximum rear-wheel traction over chattery terrain, and less fatigue through your legs on rough, high-speed descents.

But the key point of information was that the pick up on the Sidekick could be as much as 18 degrees!

 

[steve_sordy]

If the cassette had come loose, surely you would have noticed by the noise it was making? They generally cream horribly if they're not torqued properly.

If it was creaking I may well have heard it normally, but I was quite deaf at the time! The previous Saturday, I went to the see the audilogist because I was struggling with my hearing. She sent my hearing aids back to the factory for a service, diagnosed wax in my ears and to doe my ears with olive oil. I didn't have a dropper, so my wife ladelled oilve oil in with a teaspoon! Overkill, what? I was effectively quite deaf. I couldn't hear tap water running, nor the alarm clock, doorbells, telephones and so forth and my wife got truly fed up of me not hearing what she was saying. Watching TV was a waste of time because I could not hear the dialogue.

On Mon evening, the day before the ride, I was preparing the bike and the pedals spun freely, it shifted up and down the cassette, zero problems. The wheels spun freely too. When I set off on Tuesday 23rd Jun I was still quite deaf, but the bike felt fine for a short while. Less than a mile in, it suddenly started to feel draggy. I could not hear anything! But I would not have heard any rubbing noises, clattering or anything at all really.

On Wed I bought a special spray that puts exactly the correct amount of olive oil in the ear. So I am no longer being overdosed. My hearing is almost back to my normal state without hearing aids. I don't need hearing aids when I'm riding because it is normally so quiet. I only need hearing aids to sort speech out from background noise.

 

[steve_sordy]

@Mikerb Thanks for the helpful informaton provided about the SRAM stuff, none of which did was I aware of. I have filed them away in my bike log, so that when I come to that area again, I will know what to look out for , or at least to take advice.