2025 Norco Sight VLT CX

Would love to know if that is stock Sight suspension travel, or if they went long fork/shock when upgrading as one would expect.

Also funny to me how everyone talking uphill performance only talks about geo. One of the pleasant surprises with this bike for me has been how good a high pivot is for chunky climbs (combined w/a motor). It's a pretty unique advantage of the high pivot/ebike combo that historically hasn't been appreciated on analog bikes since you're busy being sad about how poorly it pedals, and generally not moving fast enough to take advantage of the bump compliance.
 
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Hey everyone, my brand new C2 model with 50 miles on it has some creaking in the suspension already. Any tips to get rid of this or any common bolts or bushing that I can check? The shop I bought it from is 2 hours away, so I’d prefer not to have to take it back there.

Could i take it into any Norco dealer and have them look at it?
 
mherrick68 said:
Hey everyone, my brand new C2 model with 50 miles on it has some creaking in the suspension already. Any tips to get rid of this or any common bolts or bushing that I can check? The shop I bought it from is 2 hours away, so I’d prefer not to have to take it back there.

Could i take it into any Norco dealer and have them look at it?
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Really tough to diagnose creaking online. Any competent shop (Norco dealer or otherwise) can help you, only benefit of going where you purchased is they might be more inclined to do some amount of free labor. For a 4 hour round trip I'd rather just pay the labor at a local shop if you have one.

How confident are you the creak is from the suspension? If you are 100% sure it's from the rear suspension, I'd start with the shock mount bolts. Just remove, inspect, clean, grease, reinstall. In my anecdotal experience most creaking on new bikes has been from where the shock bolts to the carbon frame. And sometimes just a result of that bolt being over tightened.
 
venturavin said:
Really tough to diagnose creaking online. Any competent shop (Norco dealer or otherwise) can help you, only benefit of going where you purchased is they might be more inclined to do some amount of free labor. For a 4 hour round trip I'd rather just pay the labor at a local shop if you have one.

How confident are you the creak is from the suspension? If you are 100% sure it's from the rear suspension, I'd start with the shock mount bolts. Just remove, inspect, clean, grease, reinstall. In my anecdotal experience most creaking on new bikes has been from where the shock bolts to the carbon frame. And sometimes just a result of that bolt being over tightened.
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I need to do a bit more testing. I thought it might be bottom bracket at first, but just pushing down on the suspension without weight on the pedals, and it still creaks. I guess I was wondering if any Norco dealer would cover that under warranty since its a brand new bike, or would they just say that is the bike shops fault for building it incorrectly and to take it back there
 
mherrick68 said:
I need to do a bit more testing. I thought it might be bottom bracket at first, but just pushing down on the suspension without weight on the pedals, and it still creaks. I guess I was wondering if any Norco dealer would cover that under warranty since its a brand new bike, or would they just say that is the bike shops fault for building it incorrectly and to take it back there
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Well the Range CX VLT I bought from Jenson came with some hardware not properly torqued (front rotor and lower shock bolts)... even the prior bike [SCOR] had a loose cassette nut.

Personally, I'd check all the hardware myself. In the long run its something you should do anyway (hardware check) periodically. Easier than bringing bike to shop, at least as a first pass for issues. Also an ebike as no "BB" per se... there's a motor with bearings in it. However, BB gets claimed for creaking more often, but rarely the problem.

There's so many areas it could be creaking from... front or rear? under braking? only compression? g-outs? while pedaling? pressing into seat? actuating dropper? etc...
 
Ya, most likely not really a warranty thing so much as an assembly issue. Would make sense to hold your shop accountable if they were closer, but since they are not I think you'll just need to figure it out on your own/with help of a local shop. If you chase down the issue and it turns to be a defective part then you can talk to your nearest Norco dealer about warranty help, but that is not likely.

First things first is to rule out the seat and seatpost. Is the creak identical whether you're pushing down on the top of the seat or the top of the frame? Next step is to check the shock mount bolts as I mentioned earlier.
 
venturavin said:
Ya, most likely not really a warranty thing so much as an assembly issue. Would make sense to hold your shop accountable if they were closer, but since they are not I think you'll just need to figure it out on your own/with help of a local shop. If you chase down the issue and it turns to be a defective part then you can talk to your nearest Norco dealer about warranty help, but that is not likely.

First things first is to rule out the seat and seatpost. Is the creak identical whether you're pushing down on the top of the seat or the top of the frame? Next step is to check the shock mount bolts as I mentioned earlier.
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I’ve definitely narrowed it down to rear suspension creaking. If i stand on the bike with no weight on the seat and compress the suspension, it creaks. If i get off and try to press the rear suspension through the seat, it creaks. So that tells me it’s not from the pedals/cranks/motor and not from the seat post either.
 
I would check torque settings on the shock anchor points, then the linkages. A long time ago I found a slightly loose shock bolt produced a creaking on a Santa Cruz
 
Hey Folks! Just threw a 170mm zeb up front on my C1 sight vlt. Haven't ridden it yet with the new fork, but wondering if others have experience with going to 170 and leaving the stock 150mm shock. Will there be any weird handling characteristics? If I were to go to 160 in the rear what shocks should i be looking at?
Thanks!
 
2027 Sight VLT CX C1 was posted on Pinkbike.

Looks like all models are going to come with the ZEB & new Bosch display.

C1.webp


C2.webp


C3.webp
 
Re: my suspension creaking. I found this outer bolt to be able to spin freely. I'm guessing it is not supposed to do that base on how the other side is. Question for more experienced bike mechanics, is that outer bolt more of a cover ? I tried holding both sides with Allen wrenches and the bolts seem really tight together, but they spin freely within the bushing. I could probably crank on it but I don't want to break anything. Any tips are greatly appreciated !

IMG_9428.webp
 
mherrick68 said:
Re: my suspension creaking. I found this outer bolt to be able to spin freely. I'm guessing it is not supposed to do that base on how the other side is. Question for more experienced bike mechanics, is that outer bolt more of a cover ? I tried holding both sides with Allen wrenches and the bolts seem really tight together, but they spin freely within the bushing. I could probably crank on it but I don't want to break anything. Any tips are greatly appreciated !
Click to expand...
Norco uses thread locker on the hardware... so it may take a bit of force to undo. I would remove the hardware inspect, re-apply thread locker and re-torque. That bolt or pivot hardware is akin to a shoulder bolt which clamps the inner bearing race to one of the rotating suspension members (in this case the seat stay).

The head is generally large on these types of bolts either because the OD of the shoulder (ID of bearing) is large, to cover the bearing face, and/or loads into surrounding material.
 
The outer bolt with the wide flange is not a cover it is the actual bolt. Agree, I'd pull it apart and check it out. If you aren't sure what's what, pull the other side apart to compare. Just checked mine to confirm and it does not spin freely.
 
bmwpowere36m3 said:
Norco uses thread locker on the hardware... so it may take a bit of force to undo. I would remove the hardware inspect, re-apply thread locker and re-torque. That bolt or pivot hardware is akin to a shoulder bolt which clamps the inner bearing race to one of the rotating suspension members (in this case the seat stay).

The head is generally large on these types of bolts either because the OD of the shoulder (ID of bearing) is large, to cover the bearing face, and/or loads into surrounding material.
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Factory thread locker on those bolts in particular was stupidly stubborn when i was swapping out the recalled seat stays. To the point i stopped and regrouped to make sure they weren’t reverse threaded. SRAM crank bolt level stubborn.

Glad you located the likely creak culprit.

In a roundabout way your experience is how I ended up with this bike. Cant stand a noisy bike because it makes me not trust it - noises are usually a symptom of a problem and it’s hard to untrain your ears. Previous gen DJI with the knocking motor was enticing but I didn’t want a $10k+ cacophony! I also did not want to wait lol.

Stoked to hear the new dji motors got a full redesign that knixed the knock.
 
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Just picked up a 2025 Sight cx c3. Working on dialing it in. When getting it in the air it can nose down. Any ideas on addressing this? Higher rise bar? Shock/fork setup?
 
rrrolly said:
Just picked up a 2025 Sight cx c3. Working on dialing it in. When getting it in the air it can nose down. Any ideas on addressing this? Higher rise bar? Shock/fork setup?
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Welcome to the club! Fork/shock setup for sure, combined with riding technique. Most common cause for nose dive is not committing/popping off the lip. Try approaching a jump that's giving you issues with less speed, and then popping/jumping harder yourself to make up for it and clear the gap and see if that feels any different.
 
rrrolly said:
Just picked up a 2025 Sight cx c3. Working on dialing it in. When getting it in the air it can nose down. Any ideas on addressing this? Higher rise bar? Shock/fork setup?
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Assuming you know how to jump your bike, you might just have the shock’s rebound set faster than ideal. Too much boing = buck.
 
venturavin said:
Welcome to the club! Fork/shock setup for sure, combined with riding technique. Most common cause for nose dive is not committing/popping off the lip. Try approaching a jump that's giving you issues with less speed, and then popping/jumping harder yourself to make up for it and clear the gap and see if that feels any different.
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At speed it usually works better since I can sit back more. I've been riding for many years so my technique is usually solid. Not saying I can't learn anything though. This just definitely feels like a bike setup thing.
 
Zeusmasta said:
Hey Folks! Just threw a 170mm zeb up front on my C1 sight vlt. Haven't ridden it yet with the new fork, but wondering if others have experience with going to 170 and leaving the stock 150mm shock. Will there be any weird handling characteristics? If I were to go to 160 in the rear what shocks should i be looking at?
Thanks!
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Changed to a DHX2 coil on mine, bike rides better with the coil once set up
 
Blownoutrides said:
I just made the rather late and obtuse discovery that the OEM chainring is in fact a custom spider to achieve the 52mm chainline + 104BCD bolt on chainring, so replacing the chainring due to wear is solved by getting a replacement 104BCD (just ordered a 5Dev titanium).

I guess I just assumed those chainring bolts were rivets like the ones on the sram XX.

Kinda bummed that we are stuck with that spider. Ochain probably not an option
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I just cracked my spider. All four mounting points were loose. I rode 115 mile in two days and should have checked the torque on everything.

Do you have to get the custom spider from Norco or can it be purchased elsewhere?
Cracked Spider 02.webp
 
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