Velduro Rogue 170/165 mullet Enduro with DJI
- Thread starter Nomadic Dad
- Start date
JP-NZ
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
How much battery did this ride use?
Taxi Man
Active member
I think this is all irrelevant as there are so many factors. I can chew mine in 1150m and 25km or I can get 50km and 2000m. Its all to do with how many times I punch the munter button (boost) and what mode. My auto is tuned to 85nm and 600w with hill start assist (hill start assist makes it more Bosch like low down). If I leave it purely in that its 35km to 40km and 1500m to 1600m on average. Riding temps of 15 to 23 degrees. If its 1200m or 2000m of elevation every meter is better on this bike than any bike I've ridden. Its one hot dog of a rig.
JP-NZ
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Its not irrelveant at all. I'm asking a simple question and the fact his data also has average speed and HR I'm interested to know how much battery that ride consumed.
Taxi Man
Active member
What I meant or intended to say is you need to ask, tires, weather, relative effort, surface type and how many boost moments there were and what time you have that set for etc. You can have a relative effort but still hit boost and it can skew everything. Asking a single question like that has little ability to determine anything with accuracy (if thats what you want) Averages are much better or more relevant was the point I was trying to make or help you with in regards to your consideration for this drive system. The bike rocks and there is tons of data on the motor. Nealry every MTB journo will agree with the relevance of the range question. Hope this helps you.
So I had 4% left at the end of the ride.
I rode in auto for 75% of the time the rest was eco,no trail,no turbo,no boost.
Im gradually lowering the assit auto gives me on every ride to find the sweet spot for me & how I ride,I also raised the assist on eco by one increment.
Temperature was about 14°c.
I like to ride fairly aggressively,& i ride mostly with a mate on a Santa Cruz Vala (gen 5 bosch)
When i do a solo ride I'll slam it in trail & go for it,so the battery will obviously be less efficient.
But thats the reason I wanted an Avinox system on my next bike so I have that wide range of choice on how I ride & how far i can go,don't get that as much with any of the other systems,its a very versatile unit.
@rabitec (for some reason the forum wont let me reply directly to your question)
The Fox X2 custom tune is:
CL40, RL50, LMM, Rezi B40, Bleed 0.7, VVCM
Its a slightly lighter but linear tune, so more suited to a progressive linkage design.
The Rezi tune and bleed valve have also been adjusted to work better with the lighter tune.
The Fox X2 custom tune is:
CL40, RL50, LMM, Rezi B40, Bleed 0.7, VVCM
Its a slightly lighter but linear tune, so more suited to a progressive linkage design.
The Rezi tune and bleed valve have also been adjusted to work better with the lighter tune.
action99
New Member
As others have pointed out looking at other riders’ data is not super useful due to too many variables, from mode, terrain, rider weight, fitness, technique, etc.
There is so much BS around that M2s is more efficient, so you get more range or super silly things like the new 700wh gives you the same range as the standard 800wh…. M2s is more efficient but the % is so small that you will not notice.
As my previous bike was also 800wh, I did create 2 modes that mimics the ones that I was using the most, my old turbo for example 85nm, 700w and using these modes on the same tour I consume about the same. If you set it up as your current bike you will get more or less the same range as there is no magic, motor efficiency they are all so similar.
Now the real challenge is that with much more power I can do sections that I was pushing before so I consume more.
As an example, just my last two different tours, came back with 10% and 9%.
One using mostly previous bike modes 22km 1480m, the other mostly in trial and turbo 22.4km 1130m. Btw although the distance is the same the second tour has much more steep and technical sections.
I live in the middle of the Swiss Alps and use the range extender a lot on my old one (total 1050wh), so it is a big missing piece for long tours.
There will be a RX, but the question will it fit the Velduro frame as the suspension setup is completely different than Amflow? My simple calculation, taking the RS600 dimension, that only a <=400wh version would fit.
If you currently use a RX and 800wh battery and long tours with no power outlet on the path (as it is for me) is your main priority, it is a bit risky currently buying a Velduro. Once an official RX that fits will be released, if ever, then is a not brain as the bike and motor are super good.
Ive only just noticed..
Why is one side of the rocker bolts 6mm and the other side 8mm
Edit haha ignore me. I thought it was 2 separate bolts but in fact its a single bolt.
I had wondered why my paint marks had moved from 12 o'clock but the whole bolt must have turned.
Why is one side of the rocker bolts 6mm and the other side 8mm
Edit haha ignore me. I thought it was 2 separate bolts but in fact its a single bolt.
I had wondered why my paint marks had moved from 12 o'clock but the whole bolt must have turned.
Last edited:
rabitec
New Member
@TheBikeStudio thanks for this, super useful and something I wished @Velduro Global HQ @Velduro UK published on their websites (they didn't mention it to me when I reached out to them in October looking for shock recommendations).
by comparison, my off the shelf Fox X2 (bought directly from Fox) has the following tuning:
CS50, RL50, LMM, Rezi B60, Bleed 0.9, VVCM
It's actually very similar to the custom tune and what I think is the most important part (LMM) for the rogue is already there.
do you happen to know what was the original tuning of the shock before you sent it to be revalved? You said you noticed a big difference - in which department?
According to Gemini, the delta between your custom tune and my (factory?) one is the following and seems to be more related to the support (main compression + Rezi) and HI Speed (something I can tune with the outer dials I think).
I don't see big differences in linearity
Will I have problems with this dhx2 shock and xl frame?
action99
New Member
Look at the limit but should work. But considering that you already have the shock why you don't test it once you get the frame like @nathan_dh did without the coil?
I am waiting for the frame to arrive
slickrock
Well-known member
I'm working on lighter all-mountain edition, but keeping the travel long to keep the ride plush. Mezzer Pro and custom wheel build will be part of the secret sauce.
action99
New Member
I'm curious about the rationale to buy one of the burliest e-enduro frame and put under dimensioned shock, fork, brakes and tire. What benefit would you have in having a 2 maybe 3 kg lighter crippled enduro bike, when you can buy/build even a lighter all mountain?
Not sure why people are so obsessed with weight of a full ebike, a 2kg heavier bike with the best tires, suspension, brakes etc will always win downhill. Up hill the geometry of a big travel enduro will always lose vs the same motor but more climbing oriented geometry.
With this powerful motor I'm not even sure that you will notice much the 2kg more going up. You will probably gain more in having a longer chainstay and 29' in the back.
I'm not saying that you should not do it, but curious to understand the why.
I've owned and tested many e-bikes, and because of my riding style, I prefer a lighter bike so I can make it dance, have more flow, link corners, and take it through many areas whenever possible, making it jump and hovering in the air. So, in that respect, weight plays a significant role. It's certainly more efficient and faster to keep the wheels on the ground with a 25kg e-bike, but it will never be as fun as making a 21/22kg one float.
sethimus
😠 Donald Duck 😠
i'd be suprised if anyone manages to get the weight under 23kg. i used mostly boutique parts (some on the heavier side though) and was still at 24.5kg. i could probably loose maybe 6-800g on the suspension but that means air shock and i don't want that. And a few 100g by choosing a really lightweight enduro wheelset with berd spokes.
action99
New Member
Ok make sense the air part, but as you do jumps you cannot put a 36 160 fork on it or a shitty shock, fragile rims, etc so where do you find 3 or 4 kg? I did not do any calculations, you can buy a 600wh battery and save 1 kg, put some carbon components, dh cassette, if you are not heavy smaller rotors but you are not gonna make it 3-4 kg lighters.
There are always ways, obviously it involves some compromises, but always with a logical approach. I don't judge others because there isn't just one way to ride a bike, nor a single ideal way to build one. Perhaps the weight of the Rogue doesn't allow for a very light bike, but the weight that could be achieved depending on how the bike is built, according to the intended use, is something very personal.
Taxi Man
Active member
Ive always tried to make my bike light but I also couldn't tell you if my water bottle was full or empty on my bike. I also find the rouge more nimble and planted than my last eeb which was 19.5kg (mid). I've never once felt while riding it I wish it was lighter........until I went to lift it onto the roof of the car
I think that there are better frame platforms to begin building a more AM bike than the Rogue as the Rogue leans more Enduro/ DH and the suspension design and frame itself are just heavier duty.
First, begin with a bike that offers a 600 watt hour battery as standard.
Not trying to highjack the Rogue thread, but the current Wild can weigh 21kgs with your build easily.
I don't sacrifice my specification needs to save weight, but 2kgs is noticeable, even on an e-bike.
GL!
First, begin with a bike that offers a 600 watt hour battery as standard.
Not trying to highjack the Rogue thread, but the current Wild can weigh 21kgs with your build easily.
I don't sacrifice my specification needs to save weight, but 2kgs is noticeable, even on an e-bike.
GL!
JP-NZ
E*POWAH Elite World Champion
Exactly why the Velduro Vandal is such an exciting proposition to AM riders. 700/800 battery, 160/150 and 20.5kgs with the ability to possibly go sub 20 with carbon parts.
slickrock
Well-known member
Agree that Rogue is clearly a cat-5 enduro offering built for durability under heavy aggressive riding. The Vandal may be to better play to take advantage of a lightweight build, but that's far off. But I've been locked into a Rogue frame purchase for awhile now (because at the time it was the only frame-only Avinox LT offering) and the last thing I want to do is add another burly enduro rig to my quiver when I already have a superlative 200M rear travel downduro Sonni to mash trails on. So yes, my Rogue build will be shamelessly AM. I and will be able to get away with it because of my weight and stature, as I don't need big frames and overbuilt components (other than the frame itself as a given). This is the liberty of being able to buy a frame instead of a full bike intended for a median rider.
Last edited:
slickrock
Well-known member
For starters and for those who aren't familiar with Manitou, checkout the weight of this enduro 180mm fork, which will be even lighter than this when I remove 40mm worth of spacers:
The Mezzer is a really solid offering that performs very well at an incredible weight.
Somewhere around 2-3 years ago a German mag did some lab measurements and found the Mezzer to be more rigid than both the F36 & the Lyric, by substantial margins as I recall.
The catch is that the negative air volume is fixed and apparently the ratio between negative and positive gets pretty far from ideal in the 180mm travel position as the negative volume was made to be ideal around 160-170mm travel.
I run a Mezzer Avy (Avalanche Downhill Racing) Hybrid and it's been on 2 bikes so far. Basically it operates half on a coil spring and half on the existing air spring that is ran at about 1/3 pressure. This reduces air seal friction and gives a very coil like feel initially while retaining the ability to adjust bottom out resistance using the air side. Also, it's useful to be able to adjust sag/ ride height without having to alter the actual spring rate by adding/ subtracting air. It also uses an open bath damper, great for performance and lubricity, not so great for weight as the fork now weighs 2400 grams. Really this modified fork wasn't as good as a stock fork when first received; the nature of custom suspension is that it can be very good, but if it's off, it's pretty far out. But with some revalving and a change in spring rate, it's now a solid 9 out of 10 and I just had it apart today trying to get it even closer.
Anyways, the stock Mezzer is highly recommended if you want a great fork, at a great weight, at a crazy good price too. You can buy any travel Mezzer and swap the travel at no cost anywhere from 150-180mm FYI. They don't make thay clear online.
Apparently an upgraded one is on the way, but the only real place I could see to make an improvement is to have the front axle clamps added, similar to the newest Fox forks, as this is quite helpful in dealing with small variances in hub width and therefore removing a common source of binding. They are also very tight forks and respond well to burnishing.
Last edited:
The problem with Manitou/Hayes products is the poor quality control. Some items are great and others really bad out of the box, so they often require a lot of work to get functioning well, e.g. the Mezzer often needs bushings burnishing, paint removing from the dropouts, seals changing, etc. Same with Dominion brakes and other Hayes products.
Last edited:
Nomadic Dad
Active member
- Thread starter
- #2,008
I reckon this wrap makes the Rogue look thinner and different - not to everyone's tastes but good to see different styles 
after 280k in 4 weeks (compared to my normal analogue of 100Ive always tried to make my bike light but I also couldn't tell you if my water bottle was full or empty on my bike. I also find the rouge more nimble and planted than my last eeb which was 19.5kg (mid). I've never once felt while riding it I wish it was lighter........until I went to lift it onto the roof of the car
) compared to my Specialized Enduro and never owning an eeeb before - I 100% agree to this.Similar Threads
-
-
Which E-Bike should I go for CEF69 vs Markor KunLun v2- Started by Dzejkibejki
- Replies: 1
-
-
-