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Derestricting bosch smart system

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Hi,

I suscesfully changed from 25 to 32 on the Cube Touring Hybrid Pro 625
Using the EBTS via USB, its a lot of money but, it worked.

Before that i did try to do it via Rudolf, but my bike have some FW update issues, and couldnt get it done. Even the Service partner couldnt get it to fix the fw so i can do the US switch.

This method went without problems. What is and is it changed to US (The fw, i dont know, but the 32kmh pops in the app) In the ride modes.

Hope it helps to anyone. I just hope that there will be no errors. :D
 
Last edited:
bajkolizac said:
Hi,

I suscesfully changed from 25 to 32 on the Cube Touring Hybrid Pro 625
Using the EBTS via USB, its a lot of money but, it worked.

Before that i did try to do it via Rudolf, but my bike have some FW update issues, and couldnt get it done. Even the Service partner couldnt get it to fix the fw so i can do the US switch.

This method went without problems. What is and is it changed to US (The fw, i dont know, but the 32kmh pops in the app) In the ride modes.

Hope it helps to anyone. I just hope that there will be no errors. :D
Click to expand...
Of course, your registration is from yesterday 😅.. I never seen any problem with us firmware.
 
Suke said:
Of course, your registration is from yesterday 😅.. I never seen any problem with us firmware.
Click to expand...
I didnt come here to argue, i registered yesterday, to ask for help in other thread regarding the FW issues on my bike. Never mention that there is any problem with any method to derestrict. My bike have battery firmware issue, and any FW update trough flow app or at the dealer, couldnt be done. Even bosch couldnt help.
Im just commenting how i solve the problem with my bike. (Still have issue with updating firmware on battery, but that is no longer problem because i dont need to update bike anymore.)
 
Fuselman said:
Use bikespeedRS
Click to expand...
But be aware about this:

1777371004443.webp
 
Fuselman said:
Use bikespeedRS
Click to expand...
€204 for the cheapest Gen 5 version and the display won't show the actual speed correctly. I don't think so!

bajkolizac said:
I didnt come here to argue, i registered yesterday, to ask for help in other thread regarding the FW issues on my bike.
Click to expand...
You got a comprehensive reply to your issue on the other thread, will it help?
 
Joecrow said:
€204 for the cheapest Gen 5 version and the display won't show the actual speed correctly. I don't think so!


You got a comprehensive reply to your issue on the other thread, will it help?
Click to expand...
This one is 179, but still too pricey for what it does.

I saw the Greg reply on the thread. No, there is no fix in my case.
1. Everything else is up to date, but the battery wont go from 17.8.0 to 17.8.3
2. Did try everything, like resetting bms, leaving it off the bike, fully charge, deleting, reinstall, and everything about flow app, wifi, mobile data, close to the bike, in the basement without any other networks and interference from other bt and wifi freuqency.
3. Rudolf tried to force update without success, Local Bosch service partner also tried to swap and try to update battery, no success. Bosch is contacted and gave no clear fix to the problem.

Main reason why i wanted to update bike because i couldnt get it to switch to US from EU, to get 32kmh.

And today it was hit or miss with this solution from ebike tuning. But it worked, its got 32kmh in the app, how and is there any change in fw, i dont know.
 
bajkolizac said:
1. Everything else is up to date, but the battery wont go from 17.8.0 to 17.8.3
Click to expand...
Wow strange. Is it just your battery or if you (or your bike shop) substitute it for another already at 17.8.3 or later (mine is at 19.16.0) is everything OK?
 
Last edited:
Joecrow said:
Wow strange. Is it just your battery or if you (or your bike shop) substitute it for another already at 17.8.3 or later (mine is at 19.16.0) is everything OK?
Click to expand...
Obviously, bosch website is not up to date with versions ( https://www.bosch-ebike.com/en/service/software-update)
From flow app:
Led Remote: 19.22.0
Drive Unit Performance Line: 17.16.0
Battery: 17.8.0
Display Kiox 300: 19.11.0

Everything is ok, no issues. Never was one. Bike is new, no reason why, but probably BMS in battery have some issue. Manufacturer did Software update 10.2025, later when i got the bike, there was one more update that went trough normally. And after that around of before Christmas there was new update, that i couldnt get done.
 
bajkolizac said:
And after that around of before Christmas there was new update, that i couldnt get done.
Click to expand...
Not very sure but I don't think you missed much with the December update or the most recent one (April 26) unless you are into wheelies and jumps but it looks like there will be some big changes including more power in the next one (July??). If it were me I'd be pushing Bosch/your bike shop to replace the battery under warranty as soon as possible.
Looks like your Led Remote and Kiox are up to date (April 26 update) but the Drive Unit and Battery are much lower, every thing of mine is at ver. 19.xxx except for a PowerMore extender battery (17.8.3) and my kiox neither of which were on the bike when I last updated.
 
Joecrow said:
Not very sure but I don't think you missed much with the December update or the most recent one (April 26) unless you are into wheelies and jumps but it looks like there will be some big changes including more power in the next one (July??). If it were me I'd be pushing Bosch/your bike shop to replace the battery under warranty as soon as possible.
Looks like your Led Remote and Kiox are up to date (April 26 update) but the Drive Unit and Battery are much lower, every thing of mine is at ver. 19.xxx except for a PowerMore extender battery (17.8.3) and my kiox neither of which were on the bike when I last updated.
Click to expand...
Thank you for info, i will see what the future update brings.

Edit: Are you sure @Joecrow that my BDU 3360 can and will receive more power and other speculated things i may's update?

Because i contacted Bikediscount where i bought the bike, and they pointed me to Servicem where they did what they did. And after that i havent even try to contact back because the battery is ok itself, no errors and bike have no errors. It just wont update.
 
Last edited:
SEBA said:
anyone got the link to the Polish guy who deristrict bosch motors ?
Click to expand...
I have whatsupp number if you need send me pm. Do you have any problem with firmware from him? I made update to the newest version today.
 
I have to write this...

It's no surprise, I see all Bosch owners wanting MO'POWA, and how such thing can cause anxiety to all that are trying to update today, May 4th.

I usually don't give a .... what others think, be it positive or negative, but there are simple things that we can revive to remember people that MOPOWA is not always MOFUN.

Being an avid motorcyclist, I do remember when the CBR900 FireBlade came out, and how Baba-San, focused on agility and nimbleness rather than POWA!
Back in the day, it was a revolution per se!
Nowadays, anything bellow the 200hp, seems something to commute!
I also remember how awesome is seeing Carson Brown, pulling those epic youtube clips on simple biked like:
65cc
TW's
XRs or even TTR125!

FUN, it's NOT about POWA, but rather:
What YOU can do & How you feel doing it!

[Nevermind if it's a 1' gap, or a 10ft gargantuos thing. It's you, that set the limit]

Believe me: No one will give a shit if you have 120...200...300Nm or 750W, 1000W, 50000W, if you CANNOT ride the damm thing!

Don't be a wannabe, be "awsum mate! Awsum!"


Cheers to all, I know those looking for update will look sideways, or even thing bad things about what I wrote, but really: Do You Think I give a Shit?

Awsum Mate! AWSUM!
 
Raptor said:
I would consider using the ebikedoctor on here who is considerably cheaper and does the same thing
Click to expand...
Have you any idea how is the issue with early ramp-down solved? Are there different containers for the very same brand and model avaible?
 
megabobra said:
Apologies for the repost of some of this, but this single post can be a single point of reference for the rim magnet derestrict.

My build is based on an Ardunio microcontroller, reed switch and electromagnet. I removed the bike's rim magnet and instead placed a traditional magnet on the disc rotor. The Arduino then uses the reed switch to sense the true RPM of the wheel, delays the time between magnet passes by a fixed multiplier and then activates the electromagnet at the new interval accordingly. The electromagnet is positioned up against the motor case.

With ~100 lines of code, everything is working great. I've got the multiplier set to 1.4 (eg where true speed is 20kph, motor will be shown 20/1.4= 14.3kph), giving a new max assisted speed of 35kph. The multiplier could be set to anything, say 2 would give assist to 50kph.

The beauty of this setup is the simplicity: no interruption of sensors from the motor, reducing chance of detection. So long as you don't go crazy with the multiplier, it'd be very difficult for the motor to detect this manipulation, as there are so many real-world variables which will mask it; rider weight, gear ratio, terrain etc. Some things may give it away though. For example, if you use a large multiplier, you may reach a point where for a given cadence it's just not physically possible to be traveling so slowly. Also if you use location tracking through the Eplus app, it may compare wheel speed with GPS speed and flag a discrepancy.

Some FAQ:

  • YES it will disrupt your total trip distance and odometer, but it's a simple multiplication to get the true figures. ie reported trip distance * chosen multiplier = true trip distance.
  • YES it should work on setups without the rim sensor. Instead of positioning the elctromagnet against the motor case, position it against the speed sensor.
  • Total power usage when the magnet is firing is ~2.4watts, and negligable when it's not firing (ie when the bike is stationary). Magnet is firing only around 8% of the time.


Here's a quick tutorial so you can build your own derestrictor for the smart system with rim magnet.

Components:
Of course there's plenty of equivalent components you can substitute here, so go with what's cheap/easy to get locally.


Wiring Schematic:

Reed switch: D8 and Ground
Transistor: Base > D3, emitter > electromagnet, collector > Ground
Electromagnet: 5v and transistor's collector leg
Voltage regulator: 5v and Ground

View attachment 105957

The Arduino nano has a built in regulator, so you can also wire the ~13v from the Bosch low power port direct to the Vin and Ground pins in order to omit the voltage regulator above. I had a spare regulator so figured I'd use it to monitor temperatures.

Note that you'll need your Bosch dealer to enable to the low power port before it will be powered.

I was also able to build my own electromagnet with some enameled copper wire. You need a coil resistance of ~15ohms. I used 100 turns around some pvc pipe ~ 25mm in diameter and a 0.5watt 10ohm resistor.

View attachment 105975

These work just as well as the commercial electromagnet and offer better flexibility of placement. If i was starting from scratch, it'd use this rather than the off the shelf product.


Programming

Load the attached code to the Arduino Nano with Arduino IDE. You can download it here.

You can update the Multiplier variable in the code (line 26) to alter the maximum assistance speed. I've got mine set to 1.4. This slows the actual wheel rpm by a factor of 1.4, moving the maximum assistance speed from 25kph to 35kph.


Installation

Snap the magnet on to the rear disc rotor. Mount the magnetic switch on the swing arm so that it's close to the rotating magnet.
The placement of the electromagnet is a bit tricky as the motor measures the strength of the magnet field, not just if a field exists. I found it best to mount the magnet facing AWAY from the motor (ie magnetic face towards the rear of the bike). Refer to the pics attached for my placement location. I'm using some foam to wedge it in place.

Once wired, the Arduino Nano and all wiring gets pushed into the frame.



Good luck and let me know if there are any questions. View attachment 105963 View attachment 105964 View attachment 105965 View attachment 105976 View attachment 105977
Click to expand...
Hey do you think it will Work If i add a Switch that goes Up under the seat
 
megabobra said:
Apologies for the repost of some of this, but this single post can be a single point of reference for the rim magnet derestrict.

My build is based on an Ardunio microcontroller, reed switch and electromagnet. I removed the bike's rim magnet and instead placed a traditional magnet on the disc rotor. The Arduino then uses the reed switch to sense the true RPM of the wheel, delays the time between magnet passes by a fixed multiplier and then activates the electromagnet at the new interval accordingly. The electromagnet is positioned up against the motor case.

With ~100 lines of code, everything is working great. I've got the multiplier set to 1.4 (eg where true speed is 20kph, motor will be shown 20/1.4= 14.3kph), giving a new max assisted speed of 35kph. The multiplier could be set to anything, say 2 would give assist to 50kph.

The beauty of this setup is the simplicity: no interruption of sensors from the motor, reducing chance of detection. So long as you don't go crazy with the multiplier, it'd be very difficult for the motor to detect this manipulation, as there are so many real-world variables which will mask it; rider weight, gear ratio, terrain etc. Some things may give it away though. For example, if you use a large multiplier, you may reach a point where for a given cadence it's just not physically possible to be traveling so slowly. Also if you use location tracking through the Eplus app, it may compare wheel speed with GPS speed and flag a discrepancy.

Some FAQ:

  • YES it will disrupt your total trip distance and odometer, but it's a simple multiplication to get the true figures. ie reported trip distance * chosen multiplier = true trip distance.
  • YES it should work on setups without the rim sensor. Instead of positioning the elctromagnet against the motor case, position it against the speed sensor.
  • Total power usage when the magnet is firing is ~2.4watts, and negligable when it's not firing (ie when the bike is stationary). Magnet is firing only around 8% of the time.


Here's a quick tutorial so you can build your own derestrictor for the smart system with rim magnet.

Components:
Of course there's plenty of equivalent components you can substitute here, so go with what's cheap/easy to get locally.


Wiring Schematic:

Reed switch: D8 and Ground
Transistor: Base > D3, emitter > electromagnet, collector > Ground
Electromagnet: 5v and transistor's collector leg
Voltage regulator: 5v and Ground

View attachment 105957

The Arduino nano has a built in regulator, so you can also wire the ~13v from the Bosch low power port direct to the Vin and Ground pins in order to omit the voltage regulator above. I had a spare regulator so figured I'd use it to monitor temperatures.

Note that you'll need your Bosch dealer to enable to the low power port before it will be powered.

I was also able to build my own electromagnet with some enameled copper wire. You need a coil resistance of ~15ohms. I used 100 turns around some pvc pipe ~ 25mm in diameter and a 0.5watt 10ohm resistor.

View attachment 105975

These work just as well as the commercial electromagnet and offer better flexibility of placement. If i was starting from scratch, it'd use this rather than the off the shelf product.


Programming

Load the attached code to the Arduino Nano with Arduino IDE. You can download it here.

You can update the Multiplier variable in the code (line 26) to alter the maximum assistance speed. I've got mine set to 1.4. This slows the actual wheel rpm by a factor of 1.4, moving the maximum assistance speed from 25kph to 35kph.


Installation

Snap the magnet on to the rear disc rotor. Mount the magnetic switch on the swing arm so that it's close to the rotating magnet.
The placement of the electromagnet is a bit tricky as the motor measures the strength of the magnet field, not just if a field exists. I found it best to mount the magnet facing AWAY from the motor (ie magnetic face towards the rear of the bike). Refer to the pics attached for my placement location. I'm using some foam to wedge it in place.

Once wired, the Arduino Nano and all wiring gets pushed into the frame.



Good luck and let me know if there are any questions. View attachment 105963 View attachment 105964 View attachment 105965 View attachment 105976 View attachment 105977
Click to expand...
You think i can add a Switch that goes Up to my Seat to actived it If i Change the Code with chatgpt?
 
megabobra said:
Apologies for the repost of some of this, but this single post can be a single point of reference for the rim magnet derestrict.

My build is based on an Ardunio microcontroller, reed switch and electromagnet. I removed the bike's rim magnet and instead placed a traditional magnet on the disc rotor. The Arduino then uses the reed switch to sense the true RPM of the wheel, delays the time between magnet passes by a fixed multiplier and then activates the electromagnet at the new interval accordingly. The electromagnet is positioned up against the motor case.

With ~100 lines of code, everything is working great. I've got the multiplier set to 1.4 (eg where true speed is 20kph, motor will be shown 20/1.4= 14.3kph), giving a new max assisted speed of 35kph. The multiplier could be set to anything, say 2 would give assist to 50kph.

The beauty of this setup is the simplicity: no interruption of sensors from the motor, reducing chance of detection. So long as you don't go crazy with the multiplier, it'd be very difficult for the motor to detect this manipulation, as there are so many real-world variables which will mask it; rider weight, gear ratio, terrain etc. Some things may give it away though. For example, if you use a large multiplier, you may reach a point where for a given cadence it's just not physically possible to be traveling so slowly. Also if you use location tracking through the Eplus app, it may compare wheel speed with GPS speed and flag a discrepancy.

Some FAQ:

  • YES it will disrupt your total trip distance and odometer, but it's a simple multiplication to get the true figures. ie reported trip distance * chosen multiplier = true trip distance.
  • YES it should work on setups without the rim sensor. Instead of positioning the elctromagnet against the motor case, position it against the speed sensor.
  • Total power usage when the magnet is firing is ~2.4watts, and negligable when it's not firing (ie when the bike is stationary). Magnet is firing only around 8% of the time.


Here's a quick tutorial so you can build your own derestrictor for the smart system with rim magnet.

Components:
Of course there's plenty of equivalent components you can substitute here, so go with what's cheap/easy to get locally.


Wiring Schematic:

Reed switch: D8 and Ground
Transistor: Base > D3, emitter > electromagnet, collector > Ground
Electromagnet: 5v and transistor's collector leg
Voltage regulator: 5v and Ground

View attachment 105957

The Arduino nano has a built in regulator, so you can also wire the ~13v from the Bosch low power port direct to the Vin and Ground pins in order to omit the voltage regulator above. I had a spare regulator so figured I'd use it to monitor temperatures.

Note that you'll need your Bosch dealer to enable to the low power port before it will be powered.

I was also able to build my own electromagnet with some enameled copper wire. You need a coil resistance of ~15ohms. I used 100 turns around some pvc pipe ~ 25mm in diameter and a 0.5watt 10ohm resistor.

View attachment 105975

These work just as well as the commercial electromagnet and offer better flexibility of placement. If i was starting from scratch, it'd use this rather than the off the shelf product.


Programming

Load the attached code to the Arduino Nano with Arduino IDE. You can download it here.

You can update the Multiplier variable in the code (line 26) to alter the maximum assistance speed. I've got mine set to 1.4. This slows the actual wheel rpm by a factor of 1.4, moving the maximum assistance speed from 25kph to 35kph.


Installation

Snap the magnet on to the rear disc rotor. Mount the magnetic switch on the swing arm so that it's close to the rotating magnet.
The placement of the electromagnet is a bit tricky as the motor measures the strength of the magnet field, not just if a field exists. I found it best to mount the magnet facing AWAY from the motor (ie magnetic face towards the rear of the bike). Refer to the pics attached for my placement location. I'm using some foam to wedge it in place.

Once wired, the Arduino Nano and all wiring gets pushed into the frame.



Good luck and let me know if there are any questions. View attachment 105963 View attachment 105964 View attachment 105965 View attachment 105976 View attachment 105977
Click to expand...
And what should be the Magnets suction power
 
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