Hi
@Suns_PSD I like your comment and thinking we are actually working on a bash adapter that would replace the motor mount washers we use and fit direct to the motor mount screws. Our CP bike isn’t superlight yet within its category 160-165 rear to 170 front it is one of the lightest bikes currently in the market and our bikes are built/weighed either pedals and downhill rated tires that weigh 1290 gr each. Trail oriented versions can be made very light and we have a seperate flexstay rear end in the works that would have less rear travel and shave 500gr of our frameweight what kind of travel would you like to see ??
Thanks for the input. Your claims on battery percent used are something else. I was up in the middle of the night and watched Alex's Maxon range test.
Some months back I looked at the power density of the Maxon 400 and wasn't impressed. I have a Bosch CXR, and while not as efficient as the Maxon, it's known to be an efficient motor, and I would not run less than a 600 wh battery and in fact would prefer a bit more wh for my AM style (but no real mountains, just rugged hills) riding area. So, I feel strongly that you should design a 550-625wh battery pack using the best cell technology (Motel?). I get that you'll pick up a bit of range just cause it's a 43# bike instead of a 50# bike and that matters.
A 150-155/ 160 travel AM bike covers 90% of situations and allows you to stay in a Fox 36mm fork, so saves a lot of weight vs. a F38.
I greatly dislike flex stay suspension. They are good on smooth pump tracks as they give back a lot of energy and sort of squirt you forward, but with the inherent 'springyness' they simply can't move fast enough in my very rocky terrain and they chatter and skip the entire time and brake like crap. Four bar/ Horst Link is the superior suspension design, and the weight penalty is worth it. I think Flex stay would be appropriate on the 130/ 150mm travel version of the bike, as that's for a different rider group and you'd build that entire bike very light.
Additionally, I'm quite weight weenie, but try to not sacrifice anything of value, such as tire robustness, particularly on an e-bike that can have you very far from the car and sucks 2x as much to push out. So Enduro style tires are smart. I try to save weight through careful spec choices, which are often expensive, but it does add up to some weight savings.
I also think that a coil shock is a good use of extra weight on an e-bike. The durability, longevity & performance is quite the advantage on the heavier & faster e-bikes where on a pedal bike, it's not so helpful. The reality is that a coil shock with a 450 spring only weighs about 100 grams more than an X2 and it's the best place to locate extra weight anyways. But the rear suspension needs to be designed correctly for them to work. In a 150mm travel bike you'd need around 30-33% progression. Another interesting option is to run a Neo electronic shock while having a somewhat low Anti-squat suspension, of say around 92%. The rear suspension is much plusher like this but pedals poorly unless you have a Neo.
You should really offer frame only options and you can charge a premium for them. But if you must sell completes only, the top model should have either Crankbrothers Synthesis or Enve wheels. Both of these wheels have real handling advantages, and it sucks buying the high-end bike and having to sell off the stock CF wheels to install what I want. Just one of the reasons a frame only is better.
Lastly, the motor absolutely needs to have a power port to run an electronic dropper as that is the future. KS Lev has already shown one. Better provide a power port for electronic shifting as well.
That's my input.