New 2025 Wild

[KKe]

I just ordered that Wolf Carbon bash plate you have.
What are your thoughts on that product? Did it meaningfully improve protection or is it just for looks?
Some of you're mods I don't even know what they are!

I believe that stock guard could be stronger. Wolfcarbon is bit lighter and looks nice. There is lip on left side that protects motor heatsink that stock one doesn't have, it may affect cooling. Fitment was good. Time will tell how long it will last.

 

[mtrain1969]

I just ordered that Wolf Carbon bash plate you have.
What are your thoughts on that product? Did it meaningfully improve protection or is it just for looks?
Some of you're mods I don't even know what they are!

The stock cover is fragile and hangs low so some sort of aftermarket protection is a must (in my opinion). That wolf one looks nice but I ended up with this one.

BASH GUARD DOWNHILL MODEL FOR WHYTE BIKE E SERIES E160 AND E-180.

BASH GUARD DOWNHILL MODEL FOR WHYTE BIKE E SERIES E160 AND E-180. GUARD AND EXTRA LONG BOLT PACKAGE IN HARD ANODISED BLACK.

protect-emtb.com

 

[KKe]

I can admit that my stock cover have last several quite hard hits just fine. Its made from softer type of plastic that may not crack very easy. Haven't seen many phots of broken ones. Adding that alu is for sure more robust but could hang even lower. No brainer if stock fails constantly. Nice find that Whyte one fits like it was designed for Wild

 

[Suns_PSD]

I got back from vacation yesterday and dove into my Wild. Rebuilt the entire thing.

It's a nicely built bike.

It weighs just under 50#s as it sits which is hell of impressive considering it has dual DH wheels, dual DH tires, dual coil suspension, electronic shifting & dropper, 220mm/ 200mm rotors, in a size large. I have lighter shorter forged cranks, and I need to add the pedals before the weight is completed. Was surprised to see that it didn't have a tool mount. I think I'm just going to store my tools in the bottleholder and utilize my hydration back 100% of the time as I've found that I always run out anyways.

Here is an unpopular opinion: HCR is dope. It's sleek, it's efficient, the cables are much shorter and direct, it's totally easy to deal with, when the bars spin you get less restriction and you don't need a bunch of extra cable because the cable is essentially at the center of the stem. I did install an aftermarket headset thing that could be improved, but it's what is available. The knock block is gone, and everything clears fine. All e-bikes should have a hardwired dropper, hardwired shifting, and HCR. Guess what, you have to rebleed your rear brake no matter how the cable routing is!

Now the bad: Motor won't stay on and new AXS dropper won't stay down. It's possible that when I had it torn apart, I unplugged something and that's what is going on with the motor. So, I have to dive into that when I get back in a couple of more days. Also, nothing is really set up yet, control position, suspension sag, etc. Still have much to do before I can ride it.

I'm aware that Avinox is making BIG moves in the e-bike space. But the only thing I want that Avinox is announcing soon that Bosch hasn't yet is the more energy dense battery, which I likely will be able to add to this Wild in the next 12 months as well.

 

[killerade]

I just ordered that Wolf Carbon bash plate you have.
What are your thoughts on that product? Did it meaningfully improve protection or is it just for looks?
Some of you're mods I don't even know what they are!

Definitely worth it

 

[KKe]

Definitely worth it

This is installed top of the stock guard?

 

[Singletrackmind]

Have you

I got back from vacation yesterday and dove into my Wild. Rebuilt the entire thing.

It's a nicely built bike.

It weighs just under 50#s as it sits which is hell of impressive considering it has dual DH wheels, dual DH tires, dual coil suspension, electronic shifting & dropper, 220mm/ 200mm rotors, in a size large. I have lighter shorter forged cranks, and I need to add the pedals before the weight is completed. Was surprised to see that it didn't have a tool mount. I think I'm just going to store my tools in the bottleholder and utilize my hydration back 100% of the time as I've found that I always run out anyways.

Here is an unpopular opinion: HCR is dope. It's sleek, it's efficient, the cables are much shorter and direct, it's totally easy to deal with, when the bars spin you get less restriction and you don't need a bunch of extra cable because the cable is essentially at the center of the stem. I did install an aftermarket headset thing that could be improved, but it's what is available. The knock block is gone, and everything clears fine. All e-bikes should have a hardwired dropper, hardwired shifting, and HCR. Guess what, you have to rebleed your rear brake no matter how the cable routing is!

Now the bad: Motor won't stay on and new AXS dropper won't stay down. It's possible that when I had it torn apart, I unplugged something and that's what is going on with the motor. So, I have to dive into that when I get back in a couple of more days. Also, nothing is really set up yet, control position, suspension sag, etc. Still have much to do before I can ride it.

I'm aware that Avinox is making BIG moves in the e-bike space. But the only thing I want that Avinox is announcing soon that Bosch hasn't yet is the more energy dense battery, which I likely will be able to add to this Wild in the next 12 months as well.

View attachment 180555

View attachment 180554

I use a Wolftooth B-Rad Tool Bag and strap it directly to my frames. Holds everything I need and allows me to carry a water bottle along with my hydration waist pack. I did have to buy an extra velcro strap and have wifey sew 2 together because the stock strap is too small for an emtb downtube.

B-RAD TekLite Roll-Top Bag 1L

The B-RAD Roll Top Bag is a weatherproof bag, waterproof fabric with sealed seams, that triples as a frame storage bag, dropper compatible under seat bag, and a B-RAD System mounting accessory.

www.wolftoothcomponents.com

 

[killerade]

This is installed top of the stock guard?

Yes, super easy to install and looks awesome

 

[Suns_PSD]

Have you

B-RAD TekLite Roll-Top Bag 1L

The B-RAD Roll Top Bag is a weatherproof bag, waterproof fabric with sealed seams, that triples as a frame storage bag, dropper compatible under seat bag, and a B-RAD System mounting accessory.

www.wolftoothcomponents.com

The B-Rad too bag is what I had on my Relay, but there are no mounting points. I'm sure that I could use a little stick on velcro combined with the strap to hold is somewhere on the frame.

But my crew rides fast lately and they won't even stop to take a drink from a bottle these days so I'm 100% on a hydration pack anyways. Plus, I kept running out on one bottle during our winter, and now summer is arriving. Just going to stuff my spares in an old bottle and store it in the water bottle holder and the weight is really nice and low there.

 

[Suns_PSD]

So it's all fixed and ready to ride now. The Bosch wasn't working because the kiox display was unplugged. The AXS dropper wasn't working because the remote wasn't paired. The Wheeltop derailleur, I don't even have the correct tools to set it up yet it already shifts 98% perfectly. It's very nice.
The AXS 200mm fits perfectly. With riding shoes I might slide it up 3-5mm. I'm 5'10.5" for those that care.

I weighed my Wild 2 different ways ready to ride minus my tools. Got 49.2#s one way and 49#s/ 22.3 kgs the other way. Pretty pleased with that weight.

First proper ride tomorrow.

 

[Singletrackmind]

So it's all fixed and ready to ride now.
The AXS 200mm fits perfectly. With riding shoes I might slide it up 3-5mm

I weighed it 2 different ways ready to ride minus my tools. Got 49.2#s one way and 49#s the other way. Pretty pleased with that weight.

First proper ride tomorrow.

View attachment 180622

Let me know your thoughts on the over run feature in Race mode.

 

[Suns_PSD]

Let me know your thoughts on the over run feature in Race mode.

Do you know of any custom settings that should be considered as a starting point? For the emtb+ setting primarily.

On edit:
I ended up creating four custom modes trying to adjust power levels and the aggression level to suit their needs.
From lowest to highest their intentions are: 1) 3-7 hour epic ride/ conserve battery mode, 2) daily trail mode and my trails are very aggressive, but not mountainous, 3) high power steep climbing mode, 4) all out mode for dirt roads and the like.

They are just starting points and will be adjusted further.

 

[Suns_PSD]

I'm incredibly impressed with this Wild. It works notably better overall than my Relay. This isn't about the motor; it's about the handling. It has a balance that allows me to be much faster through the turns and the rear suspension (exact shock was moved from the Relay to the Wild) is much better also. It's very plush yet remains supportive. The bike as an Mx just barely oversteers at the limit allowing me to complete turns very quickly. It doesn't feel any heavier than my Relay even though it's actually 5# heavier, it hides it's 49#s well.

I didn't turn on Strava as I was stopping a lot to make adjustments but I'm certain that I was notably faster.

I had 3 small issues: 1) it's pretty low and pedal strikes were more common than usual. 2) I burned up 55% of my battery in 1.5 hours & 12 miles. That surprised me and I ran a pretty mild setting. I do look forward to Bosch offering an updated more power dense battery as a drop-in replacement soon. 3) I would have really liked a 28mph speed limit for the road transfers. I know for $40 the speed can be turned up but that would alter my data, so I look forward to this update as well.

Legit the battery charges slowly. It's really not an issue for me and I imagine that it was done to improve the lifespan, but it would be a pain if trying to do more laps in one day and I can see why people that live and ride a certain way would need a fast charger.

Of course, the motor has no rattle just a quiet e-bike jet engine whine/ wurr sound. The modulation is more natural than my Fazua 60 and I definitely have no complaints. I don't hate the Race mode; it would just be dangerous on my tight trails because a little pedal stroke could shoot you 2 meters off the trail.

I'm so stoked and surprised that my set up was so close, first ride out. Before the Wild, my Smuggler was my all-time favorite bike ever, and I've had a whole stack of high-end bikes. Often, I'd think, if I only had this Smuggler when I started mountain biking 10 years ago, I'd have been so much better. Well, I now have the perfect duo because this Wild is just an insanely good bicycle.

I've never ridden so fast I must say.

 

[Suns_PSD]

Figured I'd just post my build in case anyone wanted to draw anything from it. I still believe that I made the best choice for my needs in spite of the fact that there is a new sleeker Wild being released very soon with the Avinox motor.

2026 Orbea Wild Carbon Fiber CX-R motor & 600 wh battery. Large. I paid $7.1K for it new to my door. It was a custom ordered M20. I stripped off all the basic parts and installed them on my Relay to sell off and used my old good parts on the new Wild.

Verified weight (2 scales) 48.6#s/ 22 Kgs. This weight includes dual coil suspension, dual DH wheels, dual DH tires, electronic dropper & electronic shifting (includes pedals, sealant, temporary sag indicator & bottle holder)

Fork is a Mezzer converted Avy Hybrid (coil over air) fork. It weighs 2401 grams with the axle but no fender as I don’t run one. Rear shock is an Avy Bomber CR coil with a 450# SAR spring. It weighs 799 grams.

Wheels are Crankbrothers Synthesis DH/ E-bike MX rims with Sapim flat spokes and OneUp Hubs. These came in lighter than expected at 988g rear & 854g front. This was a full 254 grams lighter than the published weight all saved from the spokes and hubs. Tires are a big weight penalty, Albert 2.6 gravity in the rear weighs 1340 grams. My front Mazza Race 2.6 weighs 1420 grams. A put a lot of sealant in there, so I guess about 250 grams more in Orange Sealant. This is the best tire set up I’ve ever ridden.

WheelTop Electronic Shifting weighs 472 grams on my scale all in. This was only 46 grams more than an 11-speed mechanical shifting. Impressive!

X01 11 speed cassette weighs 274 grams on my scale. That’s a big weight saver, all steel, and perfect for an e-bike. Highly recommended.

Swapped over a Carbonwolf bash plate and at 97 grams it saved 46 grams. I bought this not to save weight and I had hoped it was thicker. Shuttle guard added about 40 grams I think.

Pedals are Newmen Beskars. Easily the best pedals I’ve ever had and only 295 grams. Cranks are E13 machined 155s. They only weighed like 5 grams less than the stock cheap ones.

Brakes are Dominion T4s, at 250 grams each. Rotors are Magura MDR-P, 220mm front weighs 240 grams, plus about 35 grams for the 40mm spacer. The rear rotor is the 200mm version so only weighs 216 grams.

My SQlabs saddle is heavy at 200 grams. Love them! The AXS 200 mm dropper with remote weighs 791 grams; that’s a pretty good weight penalty however I do enjoy it.

Bars are OneUp CF, about 230 grams. Renthal push on grips are 104 grams/ set. Spank stem,140 grams. Stock bottle cage about 30 grams, I guess.

I do carry a pack of tools in the bottle holder that weighs 300 grams, but it wasn’t weighed with this. I’ve given up on just carrying a single hydration bottle. Doesn’t work for me.

Places to save weight without removing functionality, are limited: Some Ti shock spring options out there could save 30-70 grams, but I'm too concerned with inconsistency to risk that. Plummet’s Bosch motor mounts save around 70 grams I think. I have 4 steel bolts holding my front brake adapter, maybe could save 15 grams there buying Ti. I could save a solid 300 grams just running a stock Mezzer, but I prefer the Avy Hybrid coil unit. I'll only run a coil shock on an AM e-bike, they just work better and the weight is in the ideal place anyways. So besides ordering the Ti brake bolts for something to kill time, this is probably it for this bike. Still, it’s a heck of a weight for the build imo.

 

[Jakew91]

Hey all

Looking for feedback on mullet in this bike, mine came set up 29 front and rear which I was fine with as I normally ride full29er on my trail bike. This is the longest travel bike I have had though and noticed I get buzzed by the back wheel on some of the steeps so considering going down the mullet route. My concern is whether this will have much of an impact on the rest of the ride in terms of efficiency/techy climbs, I’d also be grateful for any coil shock recommendations!

 

[Suns_PSD]

It took a couple of days but I was able to download the new 120NM Bosch upgrade on to my 2026 Wild.

 

[Singletrackmind]

It took a couple of days but I was able to download the new 120NM Bosch upgrade on to my 2026 Wild.

Maybe you can share how you did it? I've been trying but can't get new upgrades installed.

Have the most current version of the app. Have uninstalled and reinstalled app, had 2 software updates installed and rebooted bike but still can't get new power settings on my Gen 5 Race motor.

 

[en56]

The previous 100nm upgrade never did work on my 25 wild with a CX gen 5 motor . Tried everything recommended online, about 10 times. I haven’t bothered to try the 120nm update


Gave up on the 100nm update after sinking an embarrassing amount of time into it. If I work in tech and can’t get it to work, it’s probably not done well. Turns out the bike is plenty fast enough for me as is at 85nm . And I save some longevity / reliability of my drive train, and the motor, I can bank as a result

 

[Suns_PSD]

Maybe you can share how you did it? I've been trying but can't get new upgrades installed.

Have the most current version of the app. Have uninstalled and reinstalled app, had 2 software updates installed and rebooted bike but still can't get new power settings on my Gen 5 Race motor.

If you really have the most current version of the app. Go to settings, apps, Flow app, and clear the cache & app data and then reopen Flow and the 2.0 update should be available.

 

[Singletrackmind]

If you really have the most current version of the app. Go to settings, apps, Flow app, and clear the cache & app data and then reopen Flow and the 2.0 update should be available.

I really did have the latest version of the Flow app and your tip REALLY did work! Thanks mate! Would never had thought of trying your recommendation on my own!

 

[Cell4soul]

I just ordered that Wolf Carbon bash plate you have.
What are your thoughts on that product? Did it meaningfully improve protection or is it just for looks?
Some of you're mods I don't even know what they are!

How did you order the Wolf Carbon bash guard in the US? I tried on their website, but says they won’t ship to the US.

 

[Suns_PSD]

How did you order the Wolf Carbon bash guard in the US? I tried on their website, but says they won’t ship to the US.

I ordered it totally normally. No special tricks or anything.

 

[Vallydtor]

Same frame and design but will have the Gen5 Bosch CX motor.

Thought same too

 

[Suns_PSD]

When I was selecting parts for this build I typically, well I typically go for lighter products if they perform the same and as such always run the One-up dropper but because of headset cable routing and also kind of curious what all the hubbub was about I went with the AXS Reverb dropper knowing that I was gaining weight and losing 10 mm of drop.

I guess I got lucky because with the AXS slammed it is exactly the height that I would run my saddle at. I mean I do not have an extra millimeter to go down any more and would not run it any higher either. It's perfect! As long as my legs don't get shorter.

But here's the thing, and this is with the mullet rear wheel, if I had a 210mm dropper installed I would have had to shim it to limit the drop to 200mm to limit how far it went down because the rear tire would not have cleared the saddle at full bottom out. This is with the saddle slid forward on the rails too, to steepen the STA. Worth mentioning is that it's an SQ Labs saddle with the rails close to the seating surface which is a factor here.

Just an FYI for anyone choosing parts.

 

[bmwpowere36m3]

When I was selecting parts for this build I typically, well I typically go for lighter products if they perform the same and as such always run the One-up dropper but because of headset cable routing and also kind of curious what all the hubbub was about I went with the AXS Reverb dropper knowing that I was gaining weight and losing 10 mm of drop.

I guess I got lucky because with the AXS slammed it is exactly the height that I would run my saddle at. I mean I do not have an extra millimeter to go down any more and would not run it any higher either. It's perfect! As long as my legs don't get shorter.

But here's the thing, and this is with the mullet rear wheel, if I had a 210mm dropper installed I would have had to shim it to limit the drop to 200mm to limit how far it went down because the rear tire would not have cleared the saddle at full bottom out. This is with the saddle slid forward on the rails too, to steepen the STA. Worth mentioning is that it's an SQ Labs saddle with the rails close to the seating surface which is a factor here.

Just an FYI for anyone choosing parts.

I've had this issue in the past with long travel 29ers... my dropper length would be limited by tire buzzing the saddle. On my latest eMTB which is also my first MX bike, I now enjoy plenty of clearance.

I would only caution that you still need to have at least 30 mm of clearance between the tire and saddle if your checking that gap with the shock relieved of pressure and sitting on bike. Between shock bottom-out bumper and frame flex, you'll still buzz that saddle on bottom-out/heavy compression hit.

 

[Cell4soul]

For those that have swapped the 750 wh battery for a 600 wh battery, what additional parts were needed? Do I need to purchase any spacers or mounting kits? I found the one pictured below, but looks like it is only available in Europe online? I am getting ready to purchase the battery online, but want to make sure I have all necessary parts for the install.

 

[Robson]

Does anyone have an idea how long it takes from ordering to delivery from the Orbea factory? I have a new Wild 2026 coming as a warranty case, but the information I’m getting from the people in charge is quite sparse and unclear

 

[radoszmarci]

Does anyone have an idea how long it takes from ordering to delivery from the Orbea factory? I have a new Wild 2026 coming as a warranty case, but the information I’m getting from the people in charge is quite sparse and unclear

I had a frame manufacturing defect on my 2025 Wild, basically since day 1. It took some time to finally identify the issue (it was a creaking noise that was very hard to identify where it came from and why, because it was very unusual).

Orbea was firts notified by the authorized dealer in June last year (I got the bike mid-March). The communcation was ok, but even tough the issue was very very clear they just kept bullshitting until after 1.5 month they finally admitting it and said that they are going to replace the frame. I had a custom myO paintjob but I didn't even bother and said that I will take one of the stock colors just replace it fast. I waited another month and the shipping just got delayed all the time and they just kept bullshitting and by mid-September there were still no firm delivery date.

I had to opt out becuase for me this was 100% unacceptable, considering all the circumstances. The dealer refunded me eventually.

The dealer got the replacement frame in early December. So it almost took 6 months, from reporting the clear issue to get a replacement frame.

It was a superb bike to ride (when it was not creaking). The headset cable routing is a pain in the ass as expected. A simple cleaning and regreasing is a nightmare even for an experienced mechanic. I hope one day Orbea can match the manufacturing quality and level of customer service with their innovative designs and ride quality. Currenty, for me, it is very sub-par, especially considering the $$$$ you have to pay.

 

[Suns_PSD]

Not being dismissive, but what about a creak preventing the bike from being ridden while awaiting the replacement frame?

 

[Robson]

I had a frame manufacturing defect on my 2025 Wild, basically since day 1. It took some time to finally identify the issue (it was a creaking noise that was very hard to identify where it came from and why, because it was very unusual).

Orbea was firts notified by the authorized dealer in June last year (I got the bike mid-March). The communcation was ok, but even tough the issue was very very clear they just kept bullshitting until after 1.5 month they finally admitting it and said that they are going to replace the frame. I had a custom myO paintjob but I didn't even bother and said that I will take one of the stock colors just replace it fast. I waited another month and the shipping just got delayed all the time and they just kept bullshitting and by mid-September there were still no firm delivery date.

I had to opt out becuase for me this was 100% unacceptable, considering all the circumstances. The dealer refunded me eventually.

The dealer got the replacement frame in early December. So it almost took 6 months, from reporting the clear issue to get a replacement frame.

It was a superb bike to ride (when it was not creaking). The headset cable routing is a pain in the ass as expected. A simple cleaning and regreasing is a nightmare even for an experienced mechanic. I hope one day Orbea can match the manufacturing quality and level of customer service with their innovative designs and ride quality. Currenty, for me, it is very sub-par, especially considering the $$$$ you have to pay.

Damn, that’s a long wait from Orbea. I’m about three months into this warranty claim now, and last week the Orbea distributor in my country asked me which color and size I want for either a Wild ST or a Wild H20.
My current Wild is a 2021 model, so I’m honestly pretty stoked that I might be getting a brand-new one. But damn… six months.