X0 transmission has been flawless on the 3 bikes I've tried it on, my ebike included. It's pretty unreal with the powercord and autoshift capabilities. Megamo is a strong do not buy for me. Lots of other bikes will have the nicer M2S motor. The fact that megamo has through headset cable routing is an instant no go for me. It makes more sense in a road bike application but headset cable routing on a mtb is one of the dumbest things you could design into a bike imo.
Pre-order starts next month - Next Crestline Avinox frame set
- Thread starter BikingBad
- Start date
Amen!
Thanks for the positive feedback, I am quite excited and hopeful for my new XO stuff. Also realize the cord is one less point of failure while adding some real benefits which helped sway me to the XO goodies.
With you on the headset cable routing, this is the main reason I purchased the Plaid! Kidding of course, we all knew more bikes would be coming with that juicy new Avinox system and proper cable routing.
The geo, 180 travel, adjustable chain stays, reach headset, and even going to 160 or 200 in travel seems to give the Crestline the ability to fine tune to your personal preferences, where, and how you like to ride. It also gives the confidence to purchase a bike of this cost without even a darn test ride in my case!
Oh yeah, it is quite lovely to gaze upon as well... one day April will come, until then:
loganr247
New Member
- Feb 25, 2026
- 5
- 10
Where are you getting your opinion from? Maybe the transmission you had wasn't set up right. Been riding mtb for 20 years, raced for 10 and worked as a bike mechanic for 5. SRAM transmission is the easiest set-up, quickest and most crisp shifting transmission there has ever been. Every single person in my ride group has swapped to transmission after riding it. This is actually the first I've ever seen a negative comment on it for the most part. Aside from the usual "batteries don't belong on bikes".
Oh and it performs even better when shifter properly like any old derailleur. Anticipate your shifts and throw in a heavy 1/4 crank and ease off the pressure slightly when you make the shift. I can agree a lot of people getting into biking more recently never learned this. Propper way to trash your cassette and chain just power shifting all the time.
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Interesting how decades of riding somehow automatically makes one an authority on what “works best.” I’ve been on bikes over 30 years, raced plenty, and turned wrenches since I could walk, yet I still rely on actual experience and rider feedback to draw conclusions.
Here’s the reality: the T-Type Transmission isn’t faster or crisper than a regular Eagle. Under light load, it deliberately waits for specific “shift ramps” on the cassette to align, so single shifts feel slower. Dump multiple gears at once? Expect 2–3 seconds longer than old AXS or mechanical Eagle.
If SRAM Transmission were truly “easiest set-up, quickest and most crisp shifting” there wouldn’t be pages and pages of riders complaining.
But don’t just take my word for it: check SRAM’s own troubleshooting page. Or this blog:
Troubleshooting Shifting Issues with Your SRAM Transmission Drivetrain — George Ferko
As avid mountain bikers, we all can understand the frustration of encountering shifting issues. If you're experiencing shifting problems with your new SRAM Transmission mountain bike drivetrain, fear not! In this comprehensive guide, we'll delve into common troubleshooting techniques and uncommon te
georgeferko.com
Or any forum of your choice. Plenty of people reporting slow, clunky, or downright frustrating shifting. Your ride group might be the exception.
Let's not litter this thread, let's shift forward
Chainring chat, my fellow Cresties?!
So this thing is coming with a 36 tooth chainring, which makes sense for all out top speed and to outdrag your buddies or dropping strangers when you need to dish out punishment! The thing has so much torque as well I could see staying in the higher gears even with the 36 tooth, generally.
However, I am considering the 34 tooth chainring in hopes to add some range while running a lightweight 600wh battery. Looking for easier pedaling and smoother control up super steep loose climbs and over techy tight terrain. Also thinking this would make it easier to keep the cadence up as needed to get the assist desired, maybe keep things easier overall to keep me going further too?!
I do run a 36 tooth now, and it is fun to crank up the high speeds every now and then, but honestly this bike is not built for drag racing and I'm realizing this is not a major factor for most riding I do. Then with the motor cutoff at 20 or 28 mph depending on where I am riding, I am not certain I want to start mashing ultra hard when the assist gives out either, so the 34 may be easier to maintain speeds in this cut-off scenario.
Another point is ground clearance, a 34 tooth would have that smaller diameter for a bit more clearance to dodge a rock ledge or fallen trunk from time to time. In this regard, e13 makes a cool bash guard if you run a 34 tooth as well.
Any thoughts, mostly curious if this is going to add range and how much? I did note the Amflow comes with the 34 tooth. You guys all going to run the 36 tooth or have other plans?
So this thing is coming with a 36 tooth chainring, which makes sense for all out top speed and to outdrag your buddies or dropping strangers when you need to dish out punishment! The thing has so much torque as well I could see staying in the higher gears even with the 36 tooth, generally.
However, I am considering the 34 tooth chainring in hopes to add some range while running a lightweight 600wh battery. Looking for easier pedaling and smoother control up super steep loose climbs and over techy tight terrain. Also thinking this would make it easier to keep the cadence up as needed to get the assist desired, maybe keep things easier overall to keep me going further too?!
I do run a 36 tooth now, and it is fun to crank up the high speeds every now and then, but honestly this bike is not built for drag racing and I'm realizing this is not a major factor for most riding I do. Then with the motor cutoff at 20 or 28 mph depending on where I am riding, I am not certain I want to start mashing ultra hard when the assist gives out either, so the 34 may be easier to maintain speeds in this cut-off scenario.
Another point is ground clearance, a 34 tooth would have that smaller diameter for a bit more clearance to dodge a rock ledge or fallen trunk from time to time. In this regard, e13 makes a cool bash guard if you run a 34 tooth as well.
Any thoughts, mostly curious if this is going to add range and how much? I did note the Amflow comes with the 34 tooth. You guys all going to run the 36 tooth or have other plans?
I bought a 34t 104bcd chainring before it was revealed that a direct mount chain ring was included. I wanted 34t partially because, as I understood it, a 36t ring sticks out past the skid plate while a 34t is still protected. If I get my hands on a spider that will fit I will probably run the 34t.
mrtrinh
Active member
I currently have a 34t due to 36t protruding. plus that bash guard looks fugly lol
Thanks @Wah,
I have heard the same yet just took a good look at the latest Forge frame, and the 36 tooth looks very close to clearing in this pic.. is this part of the improved frame revisions I wonder?
Also the e13 bashguard I sent the link to does have the spider included, I wonder if this means e13 has a spider that may work for the Avinox, and/or which model they are using?
If they dont piece this out, you may be interested in the bashguard if you are concerned with clearance, and even though you have a chain ring the price is $99 and you get the bashguard, spider, and a chainring for the Avinox.
However if the 34 tooth clears then maybe the bashguard is not needed, so the other option I am thinking is to stick with the same style one piece e13 helix espec 34 tooth ring.
34 tooth bashguard:
34 tooth espec charinring:
I have heard the same yet just took a good look at the latest Forge frame, and the 36 tooth looks very close to clearing in this pic.. is this part of the improved frame revisions I wonder?
Also the e13 bashguard I sent the link to does have the spider included, I wonder if this means e13 has a spider that may work for the Avinox, and/or which model they are using?
If they dont piece this out, you may be interested in the bashguard if you are concerned with clearance, and even though you have a chain ring the price is $99 and you get the bashguard, spider, and a chainring for the Avinox.
However if the 34 tooth clears then maybe the bashguard is not needed, so the other option I am thinking is to stick with the same style one piece e13 helix espec 34 tooth ring.
34 tooth bashguard:
34 tooth espec charinring:
About the integrated bash guard… I don’t think I can get myself to do it. It’s like a dork disc for the front
I’m sure they have a spider though… it’s probably the
Edit: AI says Avinox uses its own spider.
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Thanks again guys, going for 34 tooth for the clearance makes great sense. If you are worried about clearance , then likely the ratio works out good for this type of technical riding also.
Didnt mean for this to turn into "bashing the bashguard" rant but I will also concede the thing does nothing in the aesthetics department!
Great feedback though overall. If the 34 is going to clear, give me some potential range (3-7% according to ai calculations?!), and improve pedaling in the steep and rough stuff I am starting to think it may be time to scour for a deal on the 34 toother.
Subjectively of course, Is there an option that can improve upon the sexy factor vs the espec I should take a gander at while were here? I have the Hope spiderless on my current, just not sure it says "Plaid raw carbon" to me..
Didnt mean for this to turn into "bashing the bashguard" rant but I will also concede the thing does nothing in the aesthetics department!
Great feedback though overall. If the 34 is going to clear, give me some potential range (3-7% according to ai calculations?!), and improve pedaling in the steep and rough stuff I am starting to think it may be time to scour for a deal on the 34 toother.
Subjectively of course, Is there an option that can improve upon the sexy factor vs the espec I should take a gander at while were here? I have the Hope spiderless on my current, just not sure it says "Plaid raw carbon" to me..
After noticing I NEVER went down to 1st gear with my Levo's 34t chainring, I put a 36t on. It's perfect now because 1st gear is actually usable in real-world situations.
And that's before the new power levels.
Great point here for certain, thank you. Did you notice any drop in your overall range when you did this?
I do find myself using 1st gear quite a bit with my 36 tooth on my rides and may be able to use it with a 34 still, but wondering how much I will need it going from 90nm to a mind boggling 130nm?!
Seems a bit counterintuitive maybe but mainly looking for more range vs top speed or even which gears I am using or not at this point. The thought is the more I am able to put into the cranks, the less the motor has to work but my logic may be flawed perhaps?
No difference in range at all. Not sure why there would be. I’m doing the same work; I’m just (potentially) in a different gear in the cassette.
I’ll be running XX 11speed on mine, 34 x 10-42. Better clearance, good range and much lighter weight.
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Re: pedal kickback.
First ride with DT DF hub upgrade on my Amflow, aka anti kickback. Config at 20 degree.
Uphill - I always do fireroad with my Amflow. Nothing changes.
Downhill - The bike is quieter, smoother, I can tell immediately on trail.
When back home check my Garmin data, the bike is surprisingly faster… I record a 3rd fastest of all time out of ~60 records, 3:05 vs 3:01 summer time PR. w/o trying hard at all, under this spring trail condition, I’m a bit shocked.
Will keep riding and report more. Maybe it’s just a good day, but I haven’t rode for nearly a month due to rain and travel, so unlikely.
First ride with DT DF hub upgrade on my Amflow, aka anti kickback. Config at 20 degree.
Uphill - I always do fireroad with my Amflow. Nothing changes.
Downhill - The bike is quieter, smoother, I can tell immediately on trail.
When back home check my Garmin data, the bike is surprisingly faster… I record a 3rd fastest of all time out of ~60 records, 3:05 vs 3:01 summer time PR. w/o trying hard at all, under this spring trail condition, I’m a bit shocked.
Will keep riding and report more. Maybe it’s just a good day, but I haven’t rode for nearly a month due to rain and travel, so unlikely.
FrogSkunk
Member
How is the 20 deg on the ebike? Interesting that the hybrid ebike specific upgrade kit for DF only has a 0 and 10 degree option. Wonder if there is any risk of damaging the hub in the floatier 20 degree position.
Plummet
Flash Git
Thats why im xt link glide until someone comes out with a lighter gearbox bike.
$167nzd on special. I can replace 4 to 5 xt link glide to one gx e transmission
I haven't tried the 10deg setup so can't compare. I went with 20 deg straight formax downhill performance, as I don't care uphill, I only ride fireroad up with my eMtb.
John_likes_bikes
Well-known member
Looks like an option for the next plaid run.
Options are always nice but after riding an 800w for the past 7+ months I could never go lower capacity unless I'm intentionally trying to have a shorter session, which is never my goal. And all the speculated additional power of the M2 is mostly unusable if you're looking for what I'd consider a solid riding session. That of course is YMMV.
Options are always nice but after riding an 800w for the past 7+ months I could never go lower capacity unless I'm intentionally trying to have a shorter session, which is never my goal. And all the speculated additional power of the M2 is mostly unusable if you're looking for what I'd consider a solid riding session. That of course is YMMV.
John_likes_bikes
Well-known member
FWIW, if memory serves that's been on presale since maybe mid last year. And as much as I prefer a chainring KB option I don't know how much 5 degrees is going to help with the levels of KB on a VPP in all but the lowest of gears.
what do you consider a "solid riding session"?
jbrown15
Well-known member
I'm running XT Linkglide on my Druid and one of my buddy's was even running the 10spd Deore Linkglide and loved it.
John_likes_bikes
Well-known member
Digging a bit into pedal kickback devices now myself, and liking the sounds of extra smooth suspension action while bombing downhills!
Seems like the Ochain may be the way to go, but they dont make an Avinox version at this time.
Wondering if anyone can tell me Is it feasible if I were to scoop up an Avinox 104 bcd spider:
Would this allow to mount the 104 bcd Ochain R?
If so, what crank option would work out for the e13 cranks?
Probably wont work unless I change over cranks too, but open to suggestions and info if this would work or not even!
Seems like the Ochain may be the way to go, but they dont make an Avinox version at this time.
Wondering if anyone can tell me Is it feasible if I were to scoop up an Avinox 104 bcd spider:
Would this allow to mount the 104 bcd Ochain R?
If so, what crank option would work out for the e13 cranks?
Probably wont work unless I change over cranks too, but open to suggestions and info if this would work or not even!
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