Ideal EMTB drive train (shifting, not motor)

jever98

Member
Joined
Jul 19, 2025
Messages
160
Reaction score
155
Location
Seattle
I have a X0 transmission drive train on my Transition Relay (Fazua). It's a great drive train for muscle bikes (great range, 12 speed), but - to me - not ideal for EMTBs: the derailleur is huge (lots of hitting rocks in MX mode), the cassette and chain are super expensive, and I don't need all that range (I use the 52t extremely rarely).

That made me think: what would be the ideal drive train? In my mind it would be very close to a Linkglide Di2 11 speed, with a few differences:
Keep: cheaper cassette and chain; superior durability (at least I heard); powered through a cable; coast shift capability (on Shimano and Bosch for now)
Change: smaller range - 11-45 is enough in my mind for e-mtbs; direct mount like Transmission (to avoid futzing with bent derailleurs); shrink derailleur even further for smaller range

What would others like to see?
 
⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
I think you could use anything from 8 speed to 12 without spacers (not completely sure about that) so it really just depends on personal preference. My wife's E-bike came with a cheap 12 speed that I replaced with a nice SRAM 11 speed that I had in my parts bin. It works fine. I kept my 12 speed because it's really nice and came on the bike and I sometimes ride with no power when I'm riding with her.
 
Having ridden everything from cheap Shimano and SRAM entry-level nonsense, through to my current setup with Di2, I have to say that the Di2 is by far the best I have ever experienced.
SRAM Transmission isn't too dissimilar, from my experiences on rental bikes equipped with it.
My setup includes a Deore Cassette, as it's what was there to start with and I think from a durability and reliability standpoint, it's absolutely fine.
What would I change to make it perfect? I'm not sure. Maybe just reducing the number of gears without sacrificing shift smoothness or range. 10-speed would likely be ideal.
I'm not sure I'd want to go to less that 10-51, though. Just bigger gaps in between, as they're the ones less used, probably.
Electronic shifting has been a revelation, but if I were going back to mechanical? I'd go Deore XT or similar. It's smooth, reliable and has a good lever feel.
I do like the idea of hangerless direct mount tech though.
 
Look into 11sp shimano link glide. Its solid AF and cost effective and works.
If I was building an e-bike from frame up, I would use Linkglide.

My fazua bike had some low end Sram group that I removed and replaced with Linkglide.

My eDruid has the Transmission 90 or whatever it is called and I can't figure out how to get it to shift right. Removing the B-screw and limit screws doesn't seem like an upgrade.
 
I'd buy the Garburuk 11 sp cassette 10-46 with only 1 Al gear. I think it weighs 300 grams.
I'd combine it with the Wheeltop electronic derailleur from AliExpress.
As it is I've ordered the Wheeltop and combining it with an X01 11sp cassette because I had a new one on the shelf.
 
Look into 11sp shimano link glide. Its solid AF and cost effective and works.
@Plummet - I have and agree it's close to what would be ideal. Direct mount and slightly smaller range (and derailleur) would be even better IMO.
If I was building an e-bike from frame up, I would use Linkglide.

My fazua bike had some low end Sram group that I removed and replaced with Linkglide.

My eDruid has the Transmission 90 or whatever it is called and I can't figure out how to get it to shift right. Removing the B-screw and limit screws doesn't seem like an upgrade.
Did you use Linkglide mech or di2? If di2, were you able to power it from the motor?
 
I'd buy the Garburuk 11 sp cassette 10-46 with only 1 Al gear. I think it weighs 300 grams.
I'd combine it with the Wheeltop electronic derailleur from AliExpress.
As it is I've ordered the Wheeltop and combining it with an X01 11sp cassette because I had a new one on the shelf.
I don't have the patience to take a chance on a derailleur. Ride time is too precious. Read too much about troubles with these derailleurs (on Chinertown forums)
 
I'd buy the Garburuk 11 sp cassette 10-46 with only 1 Al gear. I think it weighs 300 grams.
I'd combine it with the Wheeltop electronic derailleur from AliExpress.
As it is I've ordered the Wheeltop and combining it with an X01 11sp cassette because I had a new one on the shelf.
I believe it is not approved for E use.
 
Shimano xt 10-45 12spd cassette, medium cage xtr di2 derailleur, xtr HG Chain 👌

I'm using the 9-45 xtr cassette atm, but I just don't know about durability it's not actually ebike recommended. Shifts are so crisp though! I've put it through it's paces under pretty high loading and it's still going strong.
The derailleur is pretty strong too, I think the carbon cage is better than metal there. I had a big hit on it on Sunday, it still shifts perfect. It would've destroyed a transmission cage (source:I've written off one and bent 2 others)


Long cage xt di2 is shit though, no clutch doesn't work well with it. The short carbon boi is absolutely fine.
 
Shimano xt 10-45 12spd cassette, medium cage xtr di2 derailleur, xtr HG Chain 👌

I'm using the 9-45 xtr cassette atm, but I just don't know about durability it's not actually ebike recommended. Shifts are so crisp though! I've put it through it's paces under pretty high loading and it's still going strong.
The derailleur is pretty strong too, I think the carbon cage is better than metal there. I had a big hit on it on Sunday, it still shifts perfect. It would've destroyed a transmission cage (source:I've written off one and bent 2 others)


Long cage xt di2 is shit though, no clutch doesn't work well with it. The short carbon boi is absolutely fine.

It's just too many gears too close for an e-bike. It was built to keep XC racers in the ideal rpm range.
 
Sure that's the crowd it's marketed towards, but I've never once thought: man it sucks to have all these gears. And you have to remember di2 is lightning fast to change so it doesn't matter anyway. Transmission would be an absolute dog (it is anyway).

For me with a mullet bike, I'd do whatever it took to be able to run a shorter cage just so things survive. This way just happens to be readily available and as a bonus pretty light too. Oh and I think you can get a cable xt with medium cage too right?
 
SRAM or Shimano. I've had high spec of both, and there is not much between then.

My only must haves now is :

1) Electronic
2) Coast Shifting (Where you can shift without pedalling)

I will never own another EMTB without these features. It vastly improves my riding ability.
 
SRAM GX 11s with a 10-42 XO cassette:

One of the lightest cassettes on the market and will last thousands of miles.

All parts other than the cassette are dirt cheap.

Derailleur is short enough to never hit anything.

I almost never use the 42t gear, but I have a full power motor.
 
Last edited:
If my bike would allow it, I’d probably run the old Saint 10spd stuff with an 11-36 cassette. Plenty of range for the power an ebike puts out, small mech & ultra reliable.

12spd on an ebike with a 52t has got to be one of the most pointless spec choices in recent years, especially now with power outputs endlessly going up its chews through expensive components.

Sure, transmission shifts nicely & looks better being cable free, and I will give the Avinox system a +1 for the smooth shift function & how it backs off the power when shifting gears, but it’s mad we are here.
 
If my bike would allow it, I’d probably run the old Saint 10spd stuff with an 11-36 cassette. Plenty of range for the power an ebike puts out, small mech & ultra reliable.

12spd on an ebike with a 52t has got to be one of the most pointless spec choices in recent years, especially now with power outputs endlessly going up its chews through expensive components.

Sure, transmission shifts nicely & looks better being cable free, and I will give the Avinox system a +1 for the smooth shift function & how it backs off the power when shifting gears, but it’s mad we are here.
"12spd on an ebike with a 52t has got to be one of the most pointless spec choices in recent years" Totally agree, on a new Amflow my chain had officially stretched to beyond within a few months.
 
Look into 11sp shimano link glide. Its solid AF and cost effective and works.

I think that's what I'll probably go for when I wear out my current 12sp XT/SLX mix.

Does 11sp Linkglide work with Deore Di2 as I'd love wireless shifting too.
 
Linkglide 10 speed with the short cage deore mech is already perfect for me.
Been running it with an 11/48 for a few years but may try an 11/43 on the avinox powered bike ive ordered.
My older ebikes came with sram 11 speed 10/42 so im thinking going back to a smaller cog should be ok with the extra power. Plus the cassettes are about £35.
The mech is £25, so i keep a spare in the van if it gets smashed off.
 
Last edited:
As I'm considering going with a mullet drive chain with a MTB cassette on a gravel bike, I'm guessing most of you are using a 34t chainring at the front when you say a big range cassette is pointless on your ebike?

Great ratios / gear inches change a lot with a 44t, so probably still makes sense in this situation.
 
SRAM or Shimano. I've had high spec of both, and there is not much between then.

My only must haves now is :

1) Electronic
2) Coast Shifting (Where you can shift without pedalling)

I will never own another EMTB without these features. It vastly improves my riding ability.
My gasgas mxc 5 with Sram gx with auto shift and coast shifting is super nice. The auto shift works most for just cruising or flatter ground but still nice. Once it get techinical I just use manual.
 
Sure that's the crowd it's marketed towards, but I've never once thought: man it sucks to have all these gears. And you have to remember di2 is lightning fast to change so it doesn't matter anyway. Transmission would be an absolute dog (it is anyway).

For me with a mullet bike, I'd do whatever it took to be able to run a shorter cage just so things survive. This way just happens to be readily available and as a bonus pretty light too. Oh and I think you can get a cable xt with medium cage too right?

Different strokes for different folks, but on my SL e-bike, my 11 sp (32T front) I usually grab 2 gears at a time as soon as I'm pointed downwards and the spacing is pretty ideal when going up. I'll acknowledge that on the steepest bits I wish I had lower than 42t or more power. I have a full power bike on the way which even combined with a 34T up front should solve that issue.
 
I have a X0 transmission drive train on my Transition Relay (Fazua). It's a great drive train for muscle bikes (great range, 12 speed), but - to me - not ideal for EMTBs: the derailleur is huge (lots of hitting rocks in MX mode), the cassette and chain are super expensive, and I don't need all that range (I use the 52t extremely rarely).

That made me think: what would be the ideal drive train? In my mind it would be very close to a Linkglide Di2 11 speed, with a few differences:
Keep: cheaper cassette and chain; superior durability (at least I heard); powered through a cable; coast shift capability (on Shimano and Bosch for now)
Change: smaller range - 11-45 is enough in my mind for e-mtbs; direct mount like Transmission (to avoid futzing with bent derailleurs); shrink derailleur even further for smaller range

What would others like to see?
Jever98,

I've actually gave this a lot of thought when I got my first ebike. The areas I like to ride are very rocky. I find that a long derailleur arm is not always the ideal setup. Dispite my best efforts, I've occasionally place my bike in situations where the rear derailleur arm would 'Take one for the Team.'

SRAM Eagler AXS, hard hit on a rock drop, Brohemian Rhapsody Trail, Las Vegas Nevada.
1772549180509.webp


Being new to eMTB at the time, I found that on power moves such as a punchy climb, I was snapping chains frequently. I often thought about how much thicker chains chains used to be on the older 9 speed drivetrain setups. I also questioned why the need for 12 speeds on an eBike? I get 12 speeds on a traditional bike, but why an eBike? After all, I was receiving plenty of power from the bike, why not a more robust eight or nine speed system?

By going with a smaller cassette typically found on an eight or nine speed system, I could decrease the length of the derailleur arm and it would be less prone to rock strikes.

For those new to mountian biking, Shimano and others uses a letter suffix added to the rear derailleur model number to denote derailleur arm length. Shimano's primary designations are SS for Short Cage, GS for Medium Cage, and SGS for Long Cage. One of the primary functions of a derailleur arm is to take up slack and keep tension on the chain as it is shifted between cogs. A larger cassette requires more chain and thus a longer derailleur arm to accomodate the increased length of chain. I would like to add that rocks are immensely attracted to longer derailleur arms. It's one of those 'Rules of nature' thingies.

There are several companies such as 'Box' which offers eight and nine speed systems for eMTB, that have a thick chain, semi wide range cassete , i.e. 11-42, and short derailleur cage. The financial cost for one of these drivetrains is minimal when compared to say a SRAM Eagle Type T drivetrain. If you find that the terrain you ride tends to snap chains, smash derailleurs, or you simply just want a piece of Old School, this may be the ticket to happiness and less fuss.

1772553371230.webp





I tried one of these systems and it worked well. However, the cassette range impacted my riding, i.e. I was sweating my balls off on steep climbs. I live in Southern California which features a lot of mountain terrain and steep trails. I also like the 'Rock Crawling' type of trails found in the Nevada, Utah and Arizona areas. In my old age, I found I'd gotten spoiled riding with a wide range cassette. I went back to my SRAM AXS. As a side note, I have absolutely nothing to say bad about Shimano drivetrains, it's just that I love the locking derailleur arm on SRAM drivetrains. It makes working on a bike so much easier.

I currently use the SRAM 'T-Type' AXS drivetrain, coupled with a Bosch Race motor. It's a great system and I have felt no need to change. Occasionlly, I will have to replace the derailleur arm. It's one of those costs of doing business things. Swapping out a T-Type derailleur arm is a quick and easy process that does not require breaking the chain and takes only about few minutes to do.

T-Type replacement derailleur arm
1772560791446.webp


Below I'm going to discuss a seperate drivetrain topic for those who are interested:
While many riders like to increase chain ring size to increase top end speed, I found myself actually decreasing chain ring size, i.e. 26T - 28T, to increase bike range. My first eBike was an Orbea Rise with 65Nm motor and 360Wh battery. On steep climbs, I found that I was using a lot of boost. I was quickly draining my battery and thus ride length. I reasoned that if I went to a 26T or 28T chain ring, I could use 'Eco' mode more often and less boost. Decreasing chain ring size ultimately proved successful and I was able to increase overall range/ride distance by about 20%.

I average about 2,500 to 3,000 miles of riding annually. I was stretching chains out to 50% wear in about 400 to 500 miles. Because the SRAM AXS T-Type derailleur has no screw adjustment, the drivetrain requires a very exact chain length to shift properly. When the chain stretches to 50% wear, this increases overall chain length by about 6mm. A 6mm difference in chain length will directly impact T-Type shifting. The more the T-Type chain stretches, the worse your shifting will become. It's a very gradual degradation. So, if you find your T-Type drivetrain is no longer shifting smoothly or making noise, check your chain stretch. This will likely be the cause. A new chain will restore smooth and quiet shifting.

New style SRAM Type T chain (Note the thicker chain plate)

1772556982401.webp


Older style SRAM Eagle chain
1772556910700.webp



I'm not fond of replacing chains at 450 miles of use. I began experimenting with chain lubes. I reasoned that what was desgined for a traditional bike drive train may not be sufficient to withstand the torque and friction produced by an eBike motor. I trains in Southern California rains once a year, whether it needs to or not. Because of a lack of rain, the trails develop a very fine, talcum powder dirt that's abrasive. A wet lube severely attracts this abrasive dust. I've always used dry chain lubes, i.e. Rock n Roll Gold, Muc-Off Dry Lube, Squirt, White Lightening, etc. After a bit of experimentation, I've settled upon Dumonde 'Pro X Regular Formula', chain lube as my current favorite. It's marketed as a dry lube, but i'd describe it as a semi dry and wet lube. I was surprised by how well it the lubriction works. I noticed an immediate reduction in drivetrain noise and I no longer need to lube my chain before a ride. I now apply lubrication about every 5th or 6th ride. I currently have 1,000 miles on my chain and it's only at about 25% stretch. There is one definite downside to Dumonde Pro X, it attracts dirt and it requires a more frequent cleaning of the derailleur pulleys and chain.

1772560659362.webp


Be safe,
Rod
 
Jever98,

I've actually gave this a lot of thought when I got my first ebike. The areas I like to ride are very rocky. I find that a long derailleur arm is not always the ideal setup. Dispite my best efforts, I've occasionally place my bike in situations where the rear derailleur arm would 'Take one for the Team.'

SRAM Eagler AXS, hard hit on a rock drop, Brohemian Rhapsody Trail, Las Vegas Nevada.
View attachment 178651

Being new to eMTB at the time, I found that on power moves such as a punchy climb, I was snapping chains frequently. I often thought about how much thicker chains chains used to be on the older 9 speed drivetrain setups. I also questioned why the need for 12 speeds on an eBike? I get 12 speeds on a traditional bike, but why an eBike? After all, I was receiving plenty of power from the bike, why not a more robust eight or nine speed system?

By going with a smaller cassette typically found on an eight or nine speed system, I could decrease the length of the derailleur arm and it would be less prone to rock strikes.

For those new to mountian biking, Shimano and others uses a letter suffix added to the rear derailleur model number to denote derailleur arm length. Shimano's primary designations are SS for Short Cage, GS for Medium Cage, and SGS for Long Cage. One of the primary functions of a derailleur arm is to take up slack and keep tension on the chain as it is shifted between cogs. A larger cassette requires more chain and thus a longer derailleur arm to accomodate the increased length of chain. I would like to add that rocks are immensely attracted to longer derailleur arms. It's one of those 'Rules of nature' thingies.

There are several companies such as 'Box' which offers eight and nine speed systems for eMTB, that have a thick chain, semi wide range cassete , i.e. 11-42, and short derailleur cage. The financial cost for one of these drivetrains is minimal when compared to say a SRAM Eagle Type T drivetrain. If you find that the terrain you ride tends to snap chains, smash derailleurs, or you simply just want a piece of Old School, this may be the ticket to happiness and less fuss.

View attachment 178656




I tried one of these systems and it worked well. However, the cassette range impacted my riding, i.e. I was sweating my balls off on steep climbs. I live in Southern California which features a lot of mountain terrain and steep trails. I also like the 'Rock Crawling' type of trails found in the Nevada, Utah and Arizona areas. In my old age, I found I'd gotten spoiled riding with a wide range cassette. I went back to my SRAM AXS. As a side note, I have absolutely nothing to say bad about Shimano drivetrains, it's just that I love the locking derailleur arm on SRAM drivetrains. It makes working on a bike so much easier.

I currently use the SRAM 'T-Type' AXS drivetrain, coupled with a Bosch Race motor. It's a great system and I have felt no need to change. Occasionlly, I will have to replace the derailleur arm. It's one of those costs of doing business things. Swapping out a T-Type derailleur arm is a quick and easy process that does not require breaking the chain and takes only about few minutes to do.

T-Type replacement derailleur arm
View attachment 178682

Below I'm going to discuss a seperate drivetrain topic for those who are interested:
While many riders like to increase chain ring size to increase top end speed, I found myself actually decreasing chain ring size, i.e. 26T - 28T, to increase bike range. My first eBike was an Orbea Rise with 65Nm motor and 360Wh battery. On steep climbs, I found that I was using a lot of boost. I was quickly draining my battery and thus ride length. I reasoned that if I went to a 26T or 28T chain ring, I could use 'Eco' mode more often and less boost. Decreasing chain ring size ultimately proved successful and I was able to increase overall range/ride distance by about 20%.

I average about 2,500 to 3,000 miles of riding annually. I was stretching chains out to 50% wear in about 400 to 500 miles. Because the SRAM AXS T-Type derailleur has no screw adjustment, the drivetrain requires a very exact chain length to shift properly. When the chain stretches to 50% wear, this increases overall chain length by about 6mm. A 6mm difference in chain length will directly impact T-Type shifting. The more the T-Type chain stretches, the worse your shifting will become. It's a very gradual degradation. So, if you find your T-Type drivetrain is no longer shifting smoothly or making noise, check your chain stretch. This will likely be the cause. A new chain will restore smooth and quiet shifting.

New style SRAM Type T chain (Note the thicker chain plate)
View attachment 178665

Older style SRAM Eagle chain
View attachment 178664


I'm not fond of replacing chains at 450 miles of use. I began experimenting with chain lubes. I reasoned that what was desgined for a traditional bike drive train may not be sufficient to withstand the torque and friction produced by an eBike motor. I trains in Southern California rains once a year, whether it needs to or not. Because of a lack of rain, the trails develop a very fine, talcum powder dirt that's abrasive. A wet lube severely attracts this abrasive dust. I've always used dry chain lubes, i.e. Rock n Roll Gold, Muc-Off Dry Lube, Squirt, White Lightening, etc. After a bit of experimentation, I've settled upon Dumonde 'Pro X Regular Formula', chain lube as my current favorite. It's marketed as a dry lube, but i'd describe it as a semi dry and wet lube. I was surprised by how well it the lubriction works. I noticed an immediate reduction in drivetrain noise and I no longer need to lube my chain before a ride. I now apply lubrication about every 5th or 6th ride. I currently have 1,000 miles on my chain and it's only at about 25% stretch. There is one definite downside to Dumonde Pro X, it attracts dirt and it requires a more frequent cleaning of the derailleur pulleys and chain.

View attachment 178681

Be safe,
Rod
Yeah, I would love to run some wireless perfect shifting drive train. But i burn through more derailleurs than i do chains....
I'm regularly hunting obscure overgrown trail with roots and rock and I destroy derailleurs on the regular.
The last one lasted 2 weeks. Fuck!. I'm on my 4th derailleur within 12 months.

I definitely do not want to run a $800-$1000 E derailleur. Shelling out $170 is painful enough.

And before someone says E derailleurs dont break as easily.. That might be so. But i can go through 5 mechanical derailleurs before i reach the price of one E derailleur. Will the E derailleur take 5 derailleur smashing hits and being grabbed by vines and still last 5 times as long as a mechanical derailleur and still shift perfectly? I highly doubt it. One derailleur I tore in half!... No derailleur is surviving that impact.

But hey, if someone wants to sponsor me E derailleurs to smash test.... send em over, i will find out how long they last!
 
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    669K
    Messages
    40,963
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top