Doesn't warrant a thread to itself but I'm slightly bummed that Calvin Jones has announced his retirement. For my money, the guy has taught endless people how to fix & maintain their bikes, he embodies the internet idealism of spreading knowledge, whilst also flogging tools, obvs. Nice one Calvin.
What did you do to your EBike this week?
- Thread starter Mik3F
- Start date
JStrube
Active member
Not a whole lot of doing right now it seems.
Tyjay
Well-known member
Bought a whole new one Amflow pl carbon pro
was gonna get the silver cheaper one and basically upgrade nearly everything
but picked up the pro in the current sale for tje difference it was no brainer
Only brakes swapping to my mavens, bar and stem I’ll be swapping out
Pretty happy with everything else
was gonna get the silver cheaper one and basically upgrade nearly everything
but picked up the pro in the current sale for tje difference it was no brainer
Only brakes swapping to my mavens, bar and stem I’ll be swapping out
Pretty happy with everything else
I took my bike into the LBS and asked him to get the following done for me.
I don't really mind. I have just got over what turned out to be a 4-week illness. No energy for anything at all, not even working on my bike! And nothing but rain forecast for the next week or so.
As I start to feel better I'm certain that I will welcome the bike back and will do some further tititvating; those rims need freshening up for example. I'll also be removing and replacing the damaged areas of frame protection tape.
- Fork to TF Tuned for a standard service.
- Motor to E-Motor Repairs for a regular service.
- Replace the inner and outer cables on the shifter and dropper.
- Check and replace as necessary all frame and wheel bearings.
- Check and adjust the spokes.
I don't really mind. I have just got over what turned out to be a 4-week illness. No energy for anything at all, not even working on my bike! And nothing but rain forecast for the next week or so.
As I start to feel better I'm certain that I will welcome the bike back and will do some further tititvating; those rims need freshening up for example. I'll also be removing and replacing the damaged areas of frame protection tape.
On my lunchbreak I'm away to finish the crappy job I did of cleaning mine after Sunday's mud-fest. I got it just clean enough to bring in the house and dried off the chain and cassette, but it's still filthy. Then once it's clean I'm going to fit the Sicomtb mudguard that arrived yesterday.
I should have some OneUp ebike bars and PNW grips arriving today too, but I'll need to take the bars to my LBS to get them cut to 780mm as I don't have a suitable blade or saw guide for cutting carbon and I don't want to do a bodge job with my Dremel or damage them with a pipe cutter. That's a job for tomorrow though.
I should have some OneUp ebike bars and PNW grips arriving today too, but I'll need to take the bars to my LBS to get them cut to 780mm as I don't have a suitable blade or saw guide for cutting carbon and I don't want to do a bodge job with my Dremel or damage them with a pipe cutter. That's a job for tomorrow though.
I turned it upside down to lubricate the fork seals.
Let it be there for a few days.
Let it be there for a few days.
Finally dragged myself into the garage to face my mud-caked Levo. It's been giving me the stink eye for three weeks now, probably plotting revenge.
Did the usual spring ritual - cleaned the chain, which promptly reminded me it's due for replacement. Again. I swear these things have a built-in self-destruct timer. Also discovered my rear brake pads have somehow vanished entirely. Not worn down - actually vanished. I can only assume they've migrated south for warmer weather.
@Ribinrobin - reliable electrics but everything else failing? That's impressively backwards even by Specialized standards. Usually it's the other way round. You've achieved something special there mate.
@slippery pete - faster than your analogue on the descent with power off? Clearly the motor adds aerodynamic drag when it's spinning. Scientific fact, that. Nothing to do with the extra practice or confidence boost. Definitely the physics.
Right, back to pretending I'll actually clean the frame before my next ride. We all know how that ends.
Did the usual spring ritual - cleaned the chain, which promptly reminded me it's due for replacement. Again. I swear these things have a built-in self-destruct timer. Also discovered my rear brake pads have somehow vanished entirely. Not worn down - actually vanished. I can only assume they've migrated south for warmer weather.
@Ribinrobin - reliable electrics but everything else failing? That's impressively backwards even by Specialized standards. Usually it's the other way round. You've achieved something special there mate.
@slippery pete - faster than your analogue on the descent with power off? Clearly the motor adds aerodynamic drag when it's spinning. Scientific fact, that. Nothing to do with the extra practice or confidence boost. Definitely the physics.
Right, back to pretending I'll actually clean the frame before my next ride. We all know how that ends.
Nothing, annoyingly.
I'd planned to fit my new bars today but after popping into my LBS today to pay them cut them down I was told "we don't do that here" (they grumpy mechanic was in, as opposed to the cool, helpful one), so I've ordered the Park Tool CSB-1 blade to do it myself and will use two old grip clamps as a guide. I used a Dremel with a diamond cutting disc on my last set of carbon bars but it wasn't precise enough for my liking.
I'd planned to fit my new bars today but after popping into my LBS today to pay them cut them down I was told "we don't do that here" (they grumpy mechanic was in, as opposed to the cool, helpful one), so I've ordered the Park Tool CSB-1 blade to do it myself and will use two old grip clamps as a guide. I used a Dremel with a diamond cutting disc on my last set of carbon bars but it wasn't precise enough for my liking.
Ah, the LBS roulette. You spin the wheel and sometimes you get the bloke who'll happily chat about suspension setup for 40 minutes, other times you get the one who acts like you've asked him to perform open heart surgery when all you want is a cable cut.
Fair play on getting the Park Tool blade though. Once you've done it yourself a couple of times you'll wonder why you ever bothered asking. The two grip clamps as a guide is the way - just wrap the cut area in tape first and go slow. Carbon dust is proper nasty stuff so mask up unless you fancy coughing up expensive fibres for a week.
The Dremel approach does work but it's about as precise as my cornering - technically achievable but with a lot of unnecessary drama. You made the right call.
I bought the Park blade and an inexpensive guide from Amazon.
I saw those, if you'll pardon the pun.
I'll just use two old grips clamps though, as they'll do the same thing.
Ooh. I’ve never thought of that! Today I learned!!
I fixed it for ya.
After you’ve made the perfect cut-to-length on the expensive carbon bar …soften the cut edge with either a diamond surface tool or fine emery coth (300-400 grit). A rounded edge may prevent micro cracks from developing.
I prefer the bar clamp, blue painters tape, and a fine hacksaw blade for cutting carbon bars. The wrapped tape also prevents any marrs, scratching or dents to those precious bars. (FYI …trees are hard btw
). Mask-up…I hate the taste of carbon fibre.I finally got around to changing the star nut. I knocked the old one out and installed a new one with the proper tool. But now my carpet has metal shavings that fell down the steerer, ah well.
Next I changed the stock stem for a OneUp stem, had to remove a 3 mm spacer because of the new stem height. Also, fk the headset routing and whoever designed it. And also, 0 grease on the headset bearings from factory, the lower bearing had rust on it from just one wash.
Next I changed the stock stem for a OneUp stem, had to remove a 3 mm spacer because of the new stem height. Also, fk the headset routing and whoever designed it. And also, 0 grease on the headset bearings from factory, the lower bearing had rust on it from just one wash.
I don’t know if you can put too much grease in those head-set bearings. (Within reason). I hate the headset/stem routing also. Pita.
Within reason, just to stop the water going in.
Recently changed lower and upper headset bearings on my and wife's 4 year old Trek Rails. Packed a load of grease on the bearings on the basis that won't do any harm but might prevent some moisture getting in.
Amber Valley Guy
Well-known member
I went for a ride in what seems likes ages (been installing a new kitchen and needed a break from bloody cabinets). Lovely and sunny yesterday....until an hour later, typical...got home and knocked the water out of the chain (bouncing up on down the curbs on my cul-de-sac) and a quick wipe over with some shop towel then wiped it over with WD40 sprayed into a rag...... guess what, it's not gone rusty! Who would of guessed!! 
I fixed it for ya.
After you’ve made the perfect cut-to-length on the expensive carbon bar …soften the cut edge with either a diamond surface tool or fine emery coth (300-400 grit). A rounded edge may prevent micro cracks from developing.
I prefer the bar clamp, blue painters tape, and a fine hacksaw blade for cutting carbon bars. The wrapped tape also prevents any marrs, scratching or dents to those precious bars. (FYI …trees are hard btw
Haha, nice
For my last set of carbon bars I used a diamond cutting disc on my Dremel and masked with painters tape, then sprayed them with water whilst cutting to reduce dust, although I also wore a mask. I just did it freehand though whilst the bars were still on the bike, so the cut wasn't 100% straight. Invisible when the grips are on, but I'll use the grip clamp method this time for a nicer cut. I'll sand the ends smooth too, and maybe pop a dab on superglue on there as well.
That’s probably a good idea also but I only did that once. (Rubber glove, small dab of super glue over the freshly sanded cut, lightly sand again. In my little brain I thought this was a good idea.…who knows?Haha, nice
…maybe pop a dab on superglue on there as well.
For the 3 hairs I have left on my head …I borrow from my wife. Never had a problem with grips twisting, I guess the bar clamp helps prevent that on some brands.
I use Oury Grips btw. The diameter size is a little larger for my paws.
Upsizing my front rotor from 200mm to 220mm so I ordered a new rotor from Lewis and a black/black +40 adapter from Better Bolts.
That could be a good idea also. Never thought of that.
I use fingernail paint (matching grey and black) for those nasty scratches on my precious carbon frame paint. (Which reminds me
). I better do a meticulous search for gouging today since it’s raining too hard here for a ride. (Have you seen my goth-like toenails?)
Seeing as we are talking about tips to prevent fraying... Here's my tip, two tips actually).
When replacing the gear cable the inner wire has a tendency to fray, which is why you are supposed to fit a soft metal cap on the end. But that cap can come off and fraying commences. First tip is to fix the fray by fastening a small zip tie around the wire and unwinding it slowly up the frayed wire. The zip tie puts all the frayed wires back in place. Second tip is to put a drop of superglue onto the end of the wire when new (or before your remove the zip tie from the last bit of frayed wire). The liquid superglue runs down the spiral wires and then sets them into a solid mass.
Be careful not to put too much on or you will end up with a zip tie glued to your gear cable!
I still fit the soft metal cap, even when I've glued it, because even if not frayed you can still spike yourself on it.
When replacing the gear cable the inner wire has a tendency to fray, which is why you are supposed to fit a soft metal cap on the end. But that cap can come off and fraying commences. First tip is to fix the fray by fastening a small zip tie around the wire and unwinding it slowly up the frayed wire. The zip tie puts all the frayed wires back in place. Second tip is to put a drop of superglue onto the end of the wire when new (or before your remove the zip tie from the last bit of frayed wire). The liquid superglue runs down the spiral wires and then sets them into a solid mass.
Be careful not to put too much on or you will end up with a zip tie glued to your gear cable!
I still fit the soft metal cap, even when I've glued it, because even if not frayed you can still spike yourself on it.
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