Scott Lumen eRide 910 customized

[erider1]

Also trying to swap dropper for a lighter one, I have on hand (Fof transfer SL) and will need a longer cable and housing for a dropper.
Major pain in the butt, to source reasonably priced 3mm housing and 0.8mm cable that Jagwire makes, no one else seems to be selling of brand cable like that.. Even the expensive Jagwire kit is sold at most places. Did any of you tried to go back to 4mm standard?

 

[Tomoooo]

Pulling bowdens through the frame is a PAIN. I went AXS remote for dropper, on this component I do not care about weight, 1 cable less was more important for me. (That meant a new remote (2 levers only) so also Shock wire replacement. Crazy due to motor access is nonexistent and even with motor out, it was a challenge .
And I am not going to talk about the hose for the rear brake . See my first posts in this thread

To get factory cranks down you will need a isis crank removal tool most probably, XX install is easy, 8mm allen key.

 

[erider1]

Pulling bowdens through the frame is a PAIN. I went AXS remote for dropper, on this component I do not care about weight, 1 cable less was more important for me. (That meant a new remote (2 levers only) so also Shock wire replacement. Crazy due to motor access is nonexistent and even with motor out, it was a challenge .
And I am not going to talk about the hose for the rear brake . See my first posts in this thread

To get factory cranks down you will need a isis crank removal tool most probably, XX install is easy, 8mm allen key.

Thanks!.
Yeah, I am counting grams
So AXS dropper is a big no no. Going with Transfer SL but was even considering running standard post. For last 8 or so years, I have still not warmed up to dropper posts (coming from XC racing I use them once in blue moon). Anyways...
For the thin 3mm Jagwire housing, bought the Jagwire set but rather than replacing the housing in frame for a longer one, I will add a piece of housing (maybe 3 inches) and butt join it with old housing in frame (just add cable caps and have them facing each other). Should be just fine as the cable inside will keep it in line; and I will replace the cable itself for a longer one. Have a bad feeling that swapping the cable housing might be too much work as it is attached to frame via some clip on seatpost inside the tube by shock.
For ISIS Cranks- it is a breeze, just pulling out an old tool from 20 years ago, feels like going back in history lane with these connections.

 

[erider1]

Gap at integrated headset between spacers and cups.
I needed to re-organize cable after replacing dropper. and once I have re-assembled headset there is about 1- 1.5 mm gap between lowest spacer and upper headset cup.
The integrated headset on the top consists of: cup, bearing, race, shim and then plastic race with carve out sections for cables. Here is the gap between plastic race and lowest spacer.
The issue is the plastic race with cable cutouts will not install low enough into bearing race/ shim and protrudes about 1 -1 5. mm above the bearing surface.
And when plastic spacer installed there is this gap.
Interestingly it seems to be primarily at 12 o'clock and at 6 o'clock there is almost no gap.
I had it apart 3x and always end up with gap. Anyone had similar experience?
Any advice what might be wrong; I am just not sure if the gap was there originally.. Thanks

 

[erider1]

Gap at integrated headset between spacers and cups.
I needed to re-organize cable after replacing dropper. and once I have re-assembled headset there is about 1- 1.5 mm gap between lowest spacer and upper headset cup.
The integrated headset on the top consists of: cup, bearing, race, shim and then plastic race with carve out sections for cables. Here is the gap between plastic race and lowest spacer.
The issue is the plastic race with cable cutouts will not install low enough into bearing race/ shim and protrudes about 1 -1 5. mm above the bearing surface.
And when plastic spacer installed there is this gap.
Interestingly it seems to be primarily at 12 o'clock and at 6 o'clock there is almost no gap.
I had it apart 3x and always end up with gap. Anyone had similar experience?
Any advice what might be wrong; I am just not sure if the gap was there originally.. Thanks

 

[erider1]

Fork installed in slacker position...

 

[erider1]

View attachment 168499

So I actually took some pics of bike when brand new and I do see clearly the exact gap there as well. So that is pretty bad, as the gap for sure will introduce moisture and debris into headset and shorten life.. quite disappointing that Scott has not captured this. May try to flip the cup (change the fork to steeper position) and see if this goes away...
possibly remedy: attach (glue) small strip of fabric/tape/some kind of curtain to the outside of the lowest spacer to overlap the cup base to cover the gap...
Anyone dealt with this ??

 

[Tomoooo]

So upgraded HPR-60 , had only a very short time to test, it can be installed also with cooling fins, if the plastic cover is cut off a little bit

 

[Endoguru]

So upgraded HPR-60 , had only a very short time to test, it can be installed also with cooling fins, if the plastic cover is cut off a little bit

View attachment 175067

So upgraded HPR-60 , had only a very short time to test, it can be installed also with cooling fins, if the plastic cover is cut off a little bit

View attachment 175067

So the bolt pattern is the same as the HPR-50? Where were you able to find the motor for sale?