New 2025 Wild

[Eemeli]

But one thing I've figured out is that my perfect bike doesn't exist.

I completely agree. I have also noticed that if you want a perfect bike, in practice you have to buy what is closest to it and do the rest yourself.
The Wild was almost perfect for me. The headset cable routing is one thing I don't like, but for riding it doesn't matter to me.

I would like to try Maven brakes out of curiosity. If I want to change the rear brake hose, do I have to remove the motor and battery for that?

On the other hand, I read that the XTR hose and banjo should be a direct fit with Maven caliper, so I thought I would also try Shaven/Sramano (XTR levers with Maven calipers).
Maven levers and XTR calipers would also be interesting to try.

If I put Maven levers, is there an adapter that I can use to attach a Shimano dropper lever to a Sram brake lever?

And I was also wondering if I can use the Shimano SM-MA-F203P/PM caliper adapter with Maven caliber or should I buy Sram adapters?

 

[Singletrackmind]

I completely agree. I have also noticed that if you want a perfect bike, in practice you have to buy what is closest to it and do the rest yourself.
The Wild was almost perfect for me. The headset cable routing is one thing I don't like, but for riding it doesn't matter to me.

I would like to try Maven brakes out of curiosity. If I want to change the rear brake hose, do I have to remove the motor and battery for that?

On the other hand, I read that the XTR hose and banjo should be a direct fit with Maven caliper, so I thought I would also try Shaven/Sramano (XTR levers with Maven calipers).
Maven levers and XTR calipers would also be interesting to try.

If I put Maven levers, is there an adapter that I can use to attach a Shimano dropper lever to a Sram brake lever?

And I was also wondering if I can use the Shimano SM-MA-F203P/PM caliper adapter with Maven caliber or should I buy Sram adapters?

I use a couple different companies to mount SRAM/Shimano components. Try Problem Solvers and Wolf Tooth for various combinations.

 

[Suns_PSD]

I've never pulled an entire e-bike motor, but it's really just a handful of bolts (2 for the Bosch motor itself).
I've just committed to removing the motor to run my rear Dominion brake line.
I'll weigh the Wild as received, then tear it apart, add my often heavier parts and share the weight with the forum. I'd like to be < 50#s/ 22.5kgs. This is a stretch as I'll be using my front and rear coil suspension, DH wheels/ DH tires/ big rotors. I am just going to recycle an as new XO1 11sp I have on the shelf, that'll save 1# right there. The all steel cassette, good ground clearance & gearing works just fine for a full power e-bike even though it doesn't shift as well as a Transmission.
I think it'll build up notably lighter than the Rogue would with the same parts. Seems the idler wheel set up and the added frame bash guard needed might have added some weight to that frame. I'd still have been totally stoked on the Rogue. In fact it's still my preference but I'm tired of waiting.

 

[Suns_PSD]

Guys, have an M20 on order and feeling stoked.

I have very nearly every part I need on the shelf or on my current bike, except a couple of small bits but wanted to ask you guys about the OEM knock block/ headset situation.

I see these 2 products. Both would bypass the OEM knockblock and I guess allow me to run my own stem & spacers. Any recommendations.

Can some of you advise? Is there any issue that I'm not understanding regarding the knockblack. I mean, will the fork crown (Mezzer) or the bars (35mm rise) be in danger of contacting the frame on a L Wild? This has never been a problem on any other bikes I've owned. Is it true the OEM knockblack system is prone to failure and should be swapped? out?

Thanks guys.

 

[Suns_PSD]

Yeah, I can understand why they didn't go with the new 800, still dissapointing to say the least though. Headset cable routing is a big one, no one likes it. They obviously made a completely new mould for the frame, the fact they didn't add cable ports to it is beyond me.

I think the 800wh battery is 5" shorter too. So that definitely gets the weight much lower. Again another reason why I can't imagine Orbea is using the 750wh over the 800wh.

I don't think these aged well. The fact is that brands that have the fat downtube to fit the Bosch 800w, get a lot of pushback for being unattractive.
I for one would have just ordered the Yeti LTe if not for the bulbous downtube design as it adds weight and doesn't look great, and I personally just don't need a 750-800w battery. It's worth noting that the Gen5 Boschs appear to be highly energy efficient as well.
Hopefully, in time, Bosch will offer some killer even more energy dense batteries that fit in the same space as the current 600w battery.

 

[pdqmach26]

Guys, have an M20 on order and feeling stoked.

I have very nearly every part I need on the shelf or on my current bike, except a couple of small bits but wanted to ask you guys about the OEM knock block/ headset situation.

I see these 2 products. Both would bypass the OEM knockblock and I guess allow me to run my own stem & spacers. Any recommendations.

Can some of you advise? Is there any issue that I'm not understanding regarding the knockblack. I mean, will the fork crown (Mezzer) or the bars (35mm rise) be in danger of contacting the frame on a L Wild? This has never been a problem on any other bikes I've owned. Is it true the OEM knockblack system is prone to failure and should be swapped? out?View attachment 174975View attachment 174976

Thanks guys.

What exact questions do you have regarding the headset? The stock one is miserable. If you have Facebook, search the Orbea Wild threads. Lots of info regarding this aftermarket headset.

 

[Singletrackmind]

Guys, have an M20 on order and feeling stoked.

I have very nearly every part I need on the shelf or on my current bike, except a couple of small bits but wanted to ask you guys about the OEM knock block/ headset situation.

I see these 2 products. Both would bypass the OEM knockblock and I guess allow me to run my own stem & spacers. Any recommendations.

Can some of you advise? Is there any issue that I'm not understanding regarding the knockblack. I mean, will the fork crown (Mezzer) or the bars (35mm rise) be in danger of contacting the frame on a L Wild? This has never been a problem on any other bikes I've owned. Is it true the OEM knockblack system is prone to failure and should be swapped? out?View attachment 174975View attachment 174976

Thanks guys.

You won't need the Upper Headset Assy if you have the Universal Collector Kit from Orbea.

I used the Universal Connector Kit on my 2023 & 2026 Wild and had no issues with clearance (Size Large Frame/40mm STEM/45mm Rise Bars). From what I understand, if you go to a traditional bar/stem combo versus the stock integrated you will not have the Knockblock function.

 

[KKe]

Guys, have an M20 on order and feeling stoked.

Can some of you advise? Is there any issue that I'm not understanding regarding the knockblack. I mean, will the fork crown (Mezzer) or the bars (35mm rise) be in danger of contacting the frame on a L Wild? This has never been a problem on any other bikes I've owned. Is it true the OEM knockblack system is prone to failure and should be swapped? out?
Thanks guys.

Congrats. I don't know about Mezzer, but downtube will hit to Fox 38 on size M. My advise is to keep stock headset. It is fine quality from Enduro Bearings. The knockblocs will eventually brake, then you have no steering stop anymore. Those are designed to fail, so everything else keeps intact. Blocks are available, cost only couple € and are easy to replace. In addition, i just cant understand this noise about headset cable routing. Total over reacting imo. As whole, internal cable routing is much bigger deal.

 

[Suns_PSD]

Congrats. I don't know about Mezzer, but downtube will hit to Fox 38 on size M. My advise is to keep stock headset. It is fine quality from Enduro Bearings. The knockblocs will eventually brake, then you have no steering stop anymore. Those are designed to fail, so everything else keeps intact. Blocks are available, cost only couple € and are easy to replace. In addition, i just cant understand this noise about headset cable routing. Total over reacting imo. As whole, internal cable routing is much bigger deal.

I really appreciate the input and I will likely follow your advice. Also, you live/ ride in a place much more wet than where I live, so if you have not had bearings issues, I certainly would not.

Can you add/ subtract stem spacers with this system easily or is this fixed?

What exact questions do you have regarding the headset? The stock one is miserable. If you have Facebook, search the Orbea Wild threads. Lots of info regarding this aftermarket headset.

I'm in the FB group and have seen no info on this even though I looked.

Do you have personal experience with it being miserable?

 

[Suns_PSD]

You won't need the Upper Headset Assy if you have the Universal Collector Kit from Orbea.

I used the Universal Connector Kit on my 2023 & 2026 Wild and had no issues with clearance (Size Large Frame/40mm STEM/45mm Rise Bars). From what I understand, if you go to a traditional bar/stem combo versus the stock integrated you will not have the Knockblock function.

View attachment 174983 View attachment 174984 View attachment 174985 View attachment 174986

Did you do this primarily to keep the rear brake hose outside of the bearings, instead of inside? Or maybe because you dislike the stock knock block?

Your fork does not contact the downtube, but I guess this is a problem on certain combos.

I'm going to disassemble my entire Wild and I will have 3 cables running through there, so I want to make the correct choice on the initial build so that I don't have to redo it again.

 

[KKe]

Can you add/ subtract stem spacers with this system easily or is this fixed?

Spacer installation is completely normal. Orbea's own spacers are needed as those do interlock the knock block system to stem. Orbea spacers are fine and in my opinion even looks good.

 

[JP-NZ]

I really like the look of the Wild and how customisable it is. Sadly there is not a single Orbea dealer in my City anymore and the closest one is 4 hours drive away. Disappointing

 

[KKe]

I really like the look of the Wild and how customisable it is. Sadly there is not a single Orbea dealer in my City anymore and the closest one is 4 hours drive away. Disappointing

Can't you by online? I bought from Spain, it's 38h drive from here

 

[Suns_PSD]

I was warned that custom lead times were out a bit, so I knew what I was looking at but still hoped against hope that it would be built sooner.

My Wild gets produced on or around April 15-20th. Then has to ship to the US, then me, then get rebuilt with my parts by me (I'm slow as Hell at this). So, it'll be mid-May before I have the new bike.

 

[Powerslider]

My Levo is in the shop for suspension service, but by chance LBS Airpark Bikes is having a Obea demo event Sunday, so I reserved two hours on a Wild. Not really considering buying one but it’ll be interesting to try. I’ve only ridden Specialized Levo eMTBs.

 

[Suns_PSD]

Be certain to report back!

 

[Singletrackmind]

I was warned that custom lead times were out a bit, so I knew what I was looking at but still hoped against hope that it would be built sooner.

My Wild gets produced on or around April 15-20th. Then has to ship to the US, then me, then get rebuilt with my parts by me (I'm slow as Hell at this). So, it'll be mid-May before I have the new bike.

Understand your frustration with the long lead time, but it will definitely be worth the wait! I waited about 4 months to get my custom Wild and could not be happier!

I have about 125 miles on my new Wild and just finished an epic ride this afternoon. The bike shreds! I ordered an M10 with Race Motor and literally changed every component except the motor & battery.

By the far the most superior bike I've ever ridden for technical climbing (have owned 8 emtb's since I defected to the dark side about 5 years ago) and it absolutely loves descents as well.

Being straightforward, I haven't rode a DJI powered bike except for a brief ride when a nice chap I met on a trail let try his AM Flow. Wasn't impressed with components on his Flow but the power is undeniable.

Set my Wild up to be more of a Billy Goat that can handle the majority of the knar and it actually exceeds my expectations. Had a 2023 Wild and transferred all the components over to the 2026 model and have an accurate 1:1 comparison of changes Orbea incorporated. I like the Bosch Gen5 motor and am using the Race mode more than I did initially. Be VERY mindful of the overrun feature when riding in the Race Mode.

To me, the Wild is a great all-round bike that can handle the majority of the trails you throw at it. Like the way it compliments my Crestline S180.

Please post some pics when it finally arrives!

 

[Singletrackmind]

Did you do this primarily to keep the rear brake hose outside of the bearings, instead of inside? Or maybe because you dislike the stock knock block?

Your fork does not contact the downtube, but I guess this is a problem on certain combos.

I'm going to disassemble my entire Wild and I will have 3 cables running through there, so I want to make the correct choice on the initial build so that I don't have to redo it again.

Sorry for the late reply mate. Been on business travel.

I did it for a few reasons. Mainly because I'm running full SRAM AXS Drivetrain and Dropper and was switching the stock brakes to a Shirgura set-up (Magura MT7 calipers/MDR-P Rotors, Shimano Saint Brake Levers with Oak Components Levers) and needed to install a Magura brake hose anyway. I only have 1 cable to deal with regarding the headset.

I run a SQLAB 31.8mm aluminum bar with 12 degrees backsweep (they don't come in 35mm) to offset some carpal tunnel issues and I am very partial to Industry Nine stems.

I do ~90% of maintenance/repair work on my bikes and dealing with internal cable headset routing isn't an issue for me.

 

[Singletrackmind]

I was warned that custom lead times were out a bit, so I knew what I was looking at but still hoped against hope that it would be built sooner.

My Wild gets produced on or around April 15-20th. Then has to ship to the US, then me, then get rebuilt with my parts by me (I'm slow as Hell at this). So, it'll be mid-May before I have the new bike.

What components are you using on your new build?

 

[Suns_PSD]

What components are you using on your new build?

Thanks for the clarification that the crown on your F38 doesn't contact the downtube. Size L?

Mine is a an M20 Mullet. I just wanted the least expensive CF frame that I could get the CXR on.

Most of the parts that I'll use will be from my current Relay. I have an Avalanche Hybrid coil fork built on a Mezzer chassis. It's pretty light for what it is at around 2350 grams as I recall. An Avy Bomber CR coil shock. Hays Dominion T4s. I'll use the same rotors as you are using as I find them to be the best but I'll order some freshies. Also I came across a new set of CB CF Synthesis MX wheels on PB that I have here that I added a Mezzer race tire up front and an Albert Gravity in the rear. Oneup 210 will be recycled as will Oneup bars and my trusty SQ Labs seat from the Relay The only weird thing I'm doing is that I climb everything on a SRAM 11 speed on my bike and e-bike as is, even in CO. This will be a bit different however as it'll have a 34T front chainring instead of a 32 but then it's my first full power. But I already own the X01 11 speed and it's actually brand new, it's all steel, it has good ground clearance and it's light. It decidely does NOT shift as well as Transmission but then it's 1# lighter (than GX Transmission) and I already own it. I also ordered some 155mm E13 Race Alloy cranks just today. E13 warrantied my cheaper E13 cranks by just giving me 35% off, so that worked out well.

I'd like the bike to end up under 50#s (600w battery) but ya know, it weighs what it weighs. These are the parts that I need to run on this sort of application.

For some reason the Wid sort of ran under the radar for me but I began to recognize that it checked off the most boxes for me. And climbing is very important where I live.

I work on my bikes no problem and don't really mind the HCR, but I'd like to get the best set up the first time.

The Avinox will be announced in the Wild literally the month after I receive my Wild and it'll be the new M2, that is rumored to be quieter, more powerful & more efficient. It's like I care, but I don't. We don't have mountains and no one else runs Avinox. I like the idea that it 4 years the owner of this bike can still get service and parts, whereas DJI is sort of known for not supporting old product.

All the new low end parts will go on my Relay so that I can sell it for hopefully about $3.5K, which means I'll only have about another $3.4K in the significant upgrade to a Wild with a CXR.

Time can't go fast enough on this one, but I'm sure it'll fly by.

 

[Singletrackmind]

Thanks for the clarification that the crown on your F38 doesn't contact the downtube. Size L?

Mine is a an M20 Mullet. I just wanted the least expensive CF frame that I could get the CXR on.

Most of the parts that I'll use will be from my current Relay. I have an Avalanche Hybrid coil fork built on a Mezzer chassis. It's pretty light for what it is at around 2350 grams as I recall. An Avy Bomber CR coil shock. Hays Dominion T4s. I'll use the same rotors as you are using as I find them to be the best but I'll order some freshies. Also I came across a new set of CB CF Synthesis MX wheels on PB that I have here that I added a Mezzer race tire up front and an Albert Gravity in the rear. Oneup 210 will be recycled as will Oneup bars and my trusty SQ Labs seat from the Relay The only weird thing I'm doing is that I climb everything on a SRAM 11 speed on my bike and e-bike as is, even in CO. This will be a bit different however as it'll have a 34T front chainring instead of a 32 but then it's my first full power. But I already own the X01 11 speed and it's actually brand new, it's all steel, it has good ground clearance and it's light. It decidely does NOT shift as well as Transmission but then it's 1# lighter (than GX Transmission) and I already own it. I also ordered some 155mm E13 Race Alloy cranks just today. E13 warrantied my cheaper E13 cranks by just giving me 35% off, so that worked out well.

I'd like the bike to end up under 50#s (600w battery) but ya know, it weighs what it weighs. These are the parts that I need to run on this sort of application.

For some reason the Wid sort of ran under the radar for me but I began to recognize that it checked off the most boxes for me. And climbing is very important where I live.

I work on my bikes no problem and don't really mind the HCR, but I'd like to get the best set up the first time.

The Avinox will be announced in the Wild literally the month after I receive my Wild and it'll be the new M2, that is rumored to be quieter, more powerful & more efficient. It's like I care, but I don't. We don't have mountains and no one else runs Avinox. I like the idea that it 4 years the owner of this bike can still get service and parts, whereas DJI is sort of known for not supporting old product.

All the new low end parts will go on my Relay so that I can sell it for hopefully about $3.5K, which means I'll only have about another $3.4K in the significant upgrade to a Wild with a CXR.

Time can't go fast enough on this one, but I'm sure it'll fly by.

Sounds like an awesome build! Seems like the Avionics is taking over. I'm very happy with the Bosch Gen5 motors on both my bikes and wonder if Bosch will make a software update available to increase the power to try and match DJI?

Either way, something "new and better" will always come out. My bikes are better than me and I'm content for a year or two unless something major breaks.

Trying to live with the philosophy of spending more time wanting the things I have than having the things I want.

Happy Trails!

 

[Suns_PSD]

If Bosch offered a drop in more powerful battery back in 2 years, I'd be pretty stoked and would consider that a real upgrade. bit less weight and more watts would be a nice upgrade. I'm sure it's coming.

At this time, if Avinox M2 fixes the rattle and efficiency they will be equal to Bosch in these Metrics. Then you are just choosing looks & power (Avinox) vs. consistency & reliability (Bosch).

 

[Suns_PSD]

My custom order got moved up from a production date of April 20-25 to March 9-12th, so pretty stoked on that!

 

[ntm95]

I was warned that custom lead times were out a bit, so I knew what I was looking at but still hoped against hope that it would be built sooner.

My Wild gets produced on or around April 15-20th. Then has to ship to the US, then me, then get rebuilt with my parts by me (I'm slow as Hell at this). So, it'll be mid-May before I have the new bike.

Holy cow, you decided on a bike !?
You'll be super happy with it, the dropper insertion alone can be a main feature.
It checks all the boxes.

 

[Suns_PSD]

Yah, the dropper insertion issue (and VPP) is what kept me from jumping on the latest Crestie, that I'm certain will be epic either way.

I'm stoked, the price for a complete with the CXR and Kiox 400 ws about $1K less than a Crestie only frame as well. I'm not super financially driven, but it does matter a bit.

I think I choose the best bike for myself. Trying to decide if I want to go with an AXS reverb and maybe ever electronic shifting to clean up the rats nest as well or stick with my known parts that are already on the shelf anyways.

 

[ntm95]

Yah, the dropper insertion issue is what kept me from jumping on the latest Crestie, that I'm certain will be epic either way.

I'm stoked, the price for a complete with the CXR and Kiox 400 ws about $1K less than a Crestie only frame as well. I'm not super financially driven, but it does matter a bit.

I think I choose the best bike for myself. Trying to decide if I want to go with an AXS reverb and maybe ever electronic shifting to clean up the rats nest as well or stick with my known parts that are already on the shelf anyways.

I didn't get enough time on the '25 wild, but I think it was quite a bit stiffer than the 181, in a good way.
And the bosch gen 5 works so well, it is hard to move to the avinox considering some of the warranty issues and the long battery (high cg).

 

[Singletrackmind]

I didn't get enough time on the '25 wild, but I think it was quite a bit stiffer than the 181, in a good way.
And the bosch gen 5 works so well, it is hard to move to the avinox considering some of the warranty issues and the long battery (high cg).

I'm super happy with my 2026 Wild and like the option of using the PowerMore 250Wh external battery for those long days in the saddle.

The Crestline S180 will not accommodate the PowerMore due to the frame design.

I custom ordered my Wild and went with the Race motor. It's a beast and once you adapt to the overrun feature, especially in the Race mode, you will be able to climb just about anything.

 

[Suns_PSD]

I didn't get enough time on the '25 wild, but I think it was quite a bit stiffer than the 181, in a good way.
And the bosch gen 5 works so well, it is hard to move to the avinox considering some of the warranty issues and the long battery (high cg).

I was worried about the Wild being too stiff for my skill/ weight/ terrain.

However in this review, starting about 8:30, this darn petite shredder makes some comments about the Crestie frame flex that maybe mirrors yours.

 

[Mr.G]

I was worried about the Wild being too stiff for my skill/ weight/ terrain.

However in this review, starting about 8:30, this darn petite shredder makes some comments about the Crestie frame flex that maybe mirrors yours.

I have minimal flex in my frame, tiniest amount. Not sure about others, but it's nice and tight and is lovely to ride.

 

[KKe]

Could someone with 2026 carbon Wild help?

Does Orbea use these new type of motor mounting bolts on 2026 models? Close up picture from left side of motor would tell this. Bluebook still shows old bushing type, but it is based to 2025, so may not be updated on this.