Hows everyone getting on with their New AMflow

iXi said:
J'ai reçu cela du support, envoyé directement par e-mail

Merci pour votre message. Concernant votre demande, la limite maximale de 125kg comprend le poids et la charge du cycliste, ainsi que le poids de l'équipement monté sur le cadre. Elle n'inclut pas le poids du vélo.
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Il y a une grosse différence entre "le poids de l'équipement monté sur le cadre" et l'exclusion du poids du vélo dans la valeur de 125kg. Pourquoi Amflow n'utilise pas comme tous les autres constructeurs, le PTAC (poids total autorisé en charge), c'est à dire le poids du pilote équipé et du vélo complet. Ce qui éviterait de parler de "l'équipement monté sur le cadre".
 
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Ridgydidge said:
I have a standard bb flex test (see attached). The Amflow is not a stiff bike at all, as you can see.


That said, chain skip? This I don’t understand.

BTW - I got rid of the crack/creak - as reported elsewhere above - by greasing and retensioning all the pivot bolts.
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Yep, just needs some greae, is what I found.
 
Ridgydidge said:
I have a standard bb flex test (see attached). The Amflow is not a stiff bike at all, as you can see.


That said, chain skip? This I don’t understand.

BTW - I got rid of the crack/creak - as reported elsewhere above - by greasing and retensioning all the pivot bolts.
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I can feel that flex a bit too. definitely agree, in that area.

I've never had the chain skip, however. But I am not too heavy. For bigger riders, I suspect, this will be more noticeable.

Curious what happens over time, even with good maintenance of the pivot bolts. (I don't have enough miles to find out yet)
 
Citylad77 said:
The SW on the DJI needs improving to much space between the modes to fine tune, SPZ wins in this area. Same for the cut off when you hit 15.5 even on a 6 years old Levo its very smooth. On the DJI at 15.5 its like hitting a wall.
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That odd, I found the opposite. But the limit here, is a bit higher. I delimited mine, but before I did, I found it wasn't like hitting a wall at all..it was smoothly letting me off at the limit, with some power still.

Maybe the firmware tuning, play around with that.
 
Mini review, about 250KM in.
I have swapped following parts right from the start:
  • DH casing rear tire.
  • Raceface Stem
  • Oneup Carbon bars 35 rise
  • RS Super Deluxe with HBO, linier can
  • 27 E13 Sidekick rear wheel set to 18 degree
  • Assagai exo+ maxx grip front tire
  • Oneup 210mm dropper
  • big fender
I'm going to swap, but have not done yet:
  • Dominion A4 brakes
  • Mezzer Pro 170mm fork (it seems to fit, I checked)
  • downtube protector.

Positives:
  • Great motor and integration, as you would expect. No surprises there.
  • Good handling
  • Familiar (to me) geo and easy to get along with
  • Surprisingly good frame, good craftmanship (on my particular frame)
  • 800wh battery lasts a LONG time
  • Easy and cheap to derestrict if that's your thing. I recommend at least trying it, to just see how fun your local flatter trails might be going a bit faster. For me it's a blast.
  • Slightly flexy frame tracks very well. It isn't a noodle like the Rise I used to have.
Nagatives:
  • Clutch rattle
  • Needed to put in a lot of foam and silencers inside the frame to prevent sound.
  • Not the stiffest frame, but this is also a positive.
  • Not great in headset area, considering the large gap that will allow dirt and water to come in. I am ordering a spare headset for this reason, since I just know it will go bad pretty fast with the knock block hole allowing dirt and water ingress.
  • No frame protection under the down tube. This is a place where plenty of rocks hit, and having pulled the motor and inspected the carbon I can see it's quite thin, making me worried about rock strikes in this area. Ill be adding a frame protector there. It should also prevent the downtube to act as a drum when hit by debris.
  • High leverage and short shock stroke means a lot of pressure inside the shock. I dislike that. It makes it difficult to get the rear end feel good. So I got a shock with HBO, allowing me to have a somewhat linier feel of most of the shock without it being too harsh in the end with tokens like I would otherwise have to do, to make it not bottom out or feel terrible in the start of the stroke.

Basically it's a frame that seems simple to maintain (I really disliked the Yeti I once owned for this reason) and is just no nonsense good value.
The motor is the main selling point, but the frame is not bad at all and you shouldn't discount it as a bad frame. It rides very well.
 
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Brand new here. 3 short rides totalling about 30 miles. Love it so far!

I am curious about charging strategy, however, in terms of battery longevity. I posted a question on here about it to Amflow Support this week, so will be interested to hear what they say.
 
Fourth ride out, and something is rattling around the rear mech area. I can't recreate it when stationary, no matter what I try, and it only happens over rough terrain.

Is there a standard rattling troubleshooting approach I can try?!?
 
Blakey said:
Is there a standard rattling troubleshooting approach I can try?!?
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Yep, although unhelpfully it pays to remember rattles & squeaks often don't come from where you think they do. A decent approach is to try to rule out individual components, so for example if you suspect the seatpost, ride stood up on the pedals & that will take weight off the saddle & it will quieten down. Also work out the nature of the squeak to zone in on it I.e. is it rotational, random or related to pressure through the pedals or twisting of the frame as you ride, this can help you rule in or out various components.

At the rear, you want to look at the mech, freehub, spokes, chain etc. Spokes you can check easily by flexing them individually, a loose one will be clicky. The mech if it has a clutch can squeak - test it by pushing the lower cage toward the front of the bike, check the chain for stiff links. The freehub is harder to diagnose but you'll be looking for worn bearings which are unlikely but not impossible on a new bike. Also do a bolt check on everything, bolts work loose on bikes all the time and finally, make sure everything that should be clean & lubed is.

If none of that works, burn it with fire.
 
RustyMTB said:
Yep, although unhelpfully it pays to remember rattles & squeaks often don't come from where you think they do. A decent approach is to try to rule out individual components, so for example if you suspect the seatpost, ride stood up on the pedals & that will take weight off the saddle & it will quieten down.

At the rear, you want to look at the mech, freehub, spokes, chain etc. Spokes you can check easily by flexing them individually, a loose one will be clicky. The mech if it has a clutch can squeak - test it by pushing the lower cage toward the front of the bike, check the chain for stiff links. The freehub is harder to diagnose but you'll be looking for worn bearings which are unlikely but not impossible on a new bike. Also do a bolt check on everything, bolts work loose on bikes all the time and finally, make sure everything that should be clean & lubed is.

If none of that works, burn it with fire.
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Thanks Rusty! I will give it another once-over this evening and go through that list.

I think I'll probably put up with the rattle, rather than setting light to it for now though, thanks! :D
 
Blakey said:
Fourth ride out, and something is rattling around the rear mech area. I can't recreate it when stationary, no matter what I try, and it only happens over rough terrain.

Is there a standard rattling troubleshooting approach I can try?!?
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It's probably the chain slapping. It slaps around a lot when you are in the smallest 1/3 of the cogs.

Try putting the bike in a large cog and see if it changes anything.

I have tried a few things to minimize but nothing has really worked great. I think next i might just try with an old innertube around the chainstay and see if it makes a difference.
 
volts said:
It's probably the chain slapping. It slaps around a lot when you are in the smallest 1/3 of the cogs.

Try putting the bike in a large cog and see if it changes anything.

I have tried a few things to minimize but nothing has really worked great. I think next i might just try with an old innertube around the chainstay and see if it makes a difference.
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That's my default feeling - it sounds like chain slap and it's definitely happening in the small cog range. Sounds like you have the same issue?
 
Second ride out and had speed sensor issues/motor power restriction.

Turns out the rear axle was super loose (totally on me for not checking) but seems to be a common problem!
 
Astro66 said:
Very common to be delivered with incorrect torque on the rear axle. Will Greenfield had it happen in his video. I put a torque wrench on my rear axle every 100km.
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Would like to think my LBS would have checked but lesson learned!

Will be doing a full bolt check before the next ride!

-

On a separate note I can't get my GiffGaff sim card to udpate the bikes location unless the screen is powered on?
I have enabled all the neccessary bike protection and cloud settings in the app but wondering whether GiffGaff is just pish.
 
Blakey said:
That's my default feeling - it sounds like chain slap and it's definitely happening in the small cog range. Sounds like you have the same issue?
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Yes, I suspect everyone on am amflow would have this issue since the chain is extremely close to the stay.
 
DanMcDan said:
I had the same issue on my rise until I switched to a different link, either the cascade link or the 2nd generation link.
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I still occasionally get it with these changes...
- Cascade link
- Solid rear axle (mine shipped with tapered one during covid)
- Steel hub axle (snapped 2 aluminum axles from the flex)
- DH tires and heavy wheelset

Amflow just hit stateside. I want the 600wh version, but REALLY want to demo one first.
 
I just discovered a somewhat weird hole in my frame, since it doesn't seem to serve as a drain hole. It's also a strange shape.
Can any of you check if you have a similar hole in your frame? It's under the part between the seat tube and the shock.
you may have to turn your bike upside down.
1753887944320.png
 
Blakey said:
Brand new here. 3 short rides totalling about 30 miles. Love it so far!

I am curious about charging strategy, however, in terms of battery longevity. I posted a question on here about it to Amflow Support this week, so will be interested to hear what they say.
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"brand new" I am green with envy :)

Here is what Amflow shows for battery life: Data measured in an Amflow laboratory. After 500 full charge-discharge cycles (from 0% to 100% battery capacity) in a 25° C (77° F) laboratory environment, the battery still maintains 80% of its initial capacity. 7. Amflow PL comes with a 12A/508W charger,

The faq says that the battery will charge in 2.5 hours. My preference would be to have a slow charger to help with the longevity battery and charge it overnight. Having the fast charger would be nice for situations that need charging in the field during the day.

I am not sure what the voltage of the battery is to work out the charge rate in "C" or to run the numbers of what the actual Ah rating of the battery.

They show a battery charger rated at 12 amps and 508 watts., so for a 2.5 hr charge, my math is terrible and my knowledge of electricity limited, 2.5 times 320 watts for 800 watts total? Anyway I am curious of the voltage and Ah battery capacity to better understand the charging rate.
 
volts said:
I just discovered a somewhat weird hole in my frame, since it doesn't seem to serve as a drain hole. It's also a strange shape.
Can any of you check if you have a similar hole in your frame? It's under the part between the seat tube and the shock.
you may have to turn your bike upside down.
View attachment 165284
Click to expand...

I had a look at mine and couldn't see anything like it anywhere. I'd also say that looks rough and irregular which makes me think it's a stone "chip" or similar. If it was man/machine made it would be round, I'd assume.
 
mustclime said:
But the fact that they promote that it can run 29er or mullet makes it illegal. Class one is limited to 20mph. Put a 27.5 on and it will do 22 mph and thus not a class one. This also opens them up to legal issues, something like “ my kid mulleted the bike , it went to fast and he/she got hurt, pay me money”.
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That makes no sense, I´m pretty sure it´s the opposite.

Motor set up for 29" wheel circumference and you mount a 27.5" wheel would make it slower.
Motor set up for 27.5" wheel circumference and you mount a 29" wheel would make it faster.

Isn´t his is how some used to make the bikes faster by reprogramming the wheel circumference in the motor firmware to a smaller number than what was physically on the bike.
 
wenna said:
That makes no sense, I´m pretty sure it´s the opposite.

Motor set up for 29" wheel circumference and you mount a 27.5" wheel would make it slower.
Motor set up for 27.5" wheel circumference and you mount a 29" wheel would make it faster.

Isn´t his is how some used to make the bikes faster by reprogramming the wheel circumference in the motor firmware to a smaller number than what was physically on the bike.
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I can confirm this...my rise thinks its got a 24" rear wheel and that gets me that few extra mph to where it doesn't cut out when I'm in a flat jump line and need to pedal for speed
 
Blakey said:
I had a look at mine and couldn't see anything like it anywhere. I'd also say that looks rough and irregular which makes me think it's a stone "chip" or similar. If it was man/machine made it would be round, I'd assume.
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It's a hole all the way through. It was made before it was painted, im pretty sure. Thanks for checking yours. Ill contact support.


Edit: I contacted support. They said this:
1753968061726.png


This is the hole (center of image)
1753968120612.png
 
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volts said:
It's a hole all the way through. It was made before it was painted, im pretty sure. Thanks for checking yours. Ill contact support.


Edit: I contacted support. They said this:
View attachment 165338

This is the hole (center of image)
View attachment 165339
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Ah! I was totally looking in the wrong place!

I'm at work now but will check again later when I'm home...
 
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