Dji avinox- Amflow - Discussion

[Winford]

run max power while we can

I have a fast bike now, and I beat it to death, 2700 miles for 2025 so far and 360,000 feet of climbing. Im buying this for more KOMs so it will get beat on for all its worth.

With that said riding 5 days a week and averaging 100 miles, and not all 100 miles are me getting after it. I do recovery days often. And often Ill pick out 2 or 3 short segments that I work on at full speed. And with trails being dry and dusty and slippery, and hero dirt is months away, there is only so much ill push this one.

 

[Jazzii]

So the Sram AXS battery extension cord cannot directly connect to the Dji motor accessory port? Do you mind posting pics of the wiring connections so we can better understand. Much appreciated. Thanks.

Yes it can, I just posted solution for 30€ instead of about 200.

 

[Biano44]

Yes it can, I just posted solution for 30€ instead of about 200.

Can you provide a link to this post?

 

[Winford]

Can you provide a link to this post?

Finally I bought AXS power adapter with cord for 16 EUR and connector for 11 EUR, connected them together, pluged to motor expansion port and job was done. Transmission AXS is connected to main battery.

https://allegro.sk/ponuka/nabijaci-...R4TS5xacEASBgaArY59L9yOgaoiPHSzgaAoeyEALw_wcB
https://allegro.sk/produkt/pripojov...6cab2e664258d9124ef0862320b2d7366fdd6604cf017

 

[8o8ert]

The way i want to use an ebike is i have a local ride i do that's about 45km and 1,200m climbing, looking at my power data i average about 300w up the climbs, if the ebike can put in 100w and i put in 200w that would be ideal so i presume i would set it to 50% assist. Can you go less then 50% for on the flats?

 

[Biano44]

The way i want to use an ebike is i have a local ride i do that's about 45km and 1,200m climbing, looking at my power data i average about 300w up the climbs, if the ebike can put in 100w and i put in 200w that would be ideal so i presume i would set it to 50% assist. Can you go less then 50% for on the flats?

It’s probably not that simple.
You can adjust the assistance level for each power mode, mine is set to 5 out of 15 in ECO but you have other parameters to set such as NM and electrical power (max watts) plus when on a flat you should be straight up to the 15mph cut off (in the EU/UK) quite easily..

 

[Winford]

Can you go less then 50% for on the flats?

Yes you can, but 50% will take some time to find.

that would be ideal

As the other gentleman said, that is not a real world statistic

The way i want to use an ebike is i have a local ride

The bike will probably make your ride at close to a 100% but that does not mean if you set bike at 50% you will go twice as far. It wont.

The best way to discover range possibilities is to go out and ride and drain that battery every ride. on a 900w battery and a much weaker motor, I have about a 40 mile range at max climbing 1200m. No setting will get me more due to the bikes design.

No one can answer your question as asked. And power data does not play into real word result when there are so many other variables involved.

 

[8o8ert]

Yes you can, but 50% will take some time to find.


As the other gentleman said, that is not a real world statistic


The bike will probably make your ride at close to a 100% but that does not mean if you set bike at 50% you will go twice as far. It wont.

The best way to discover range possibilities is to go out and ride and drain that battery every ride. on a 900w battery and a much weaker motor, I have about a 40 mile range at max climbing 1200m. No setting will get me more due to the bikes design.

No one can answer your question as asked. And power data does not play into real word result when there are so many other variables involved.

Sounds like an e-bike may not offer what I want then. I'm not interested in going faster on the flats or uphill.

 

[Astro66]

Ok ...... Rant Time .......

I am so over people flooding Social Media with the nonsense that the new DJI 1000 watt upgrade, makes very little difference to the 850 watt version.

So let me explain it from someone who has especially set his bike up with these exact 2 modes.

I have set my "Trail Mode" to 850 watts and 105Nm. I have set up "Turbo Mode" to 1000 watts and 105Nm. There is night and day difference between these modes. To the point where I really don't use Turbo very often, because it can be difficult to control in a tight climbing situation.

But where Turbo (1000Watts) is head and shoulders above Trail (850Watts), is in straight very steep climbs. An example is a set of about 15 stairs at the beach where I ride. These stairs are quite steep, and I stall climbing them every time in Trail Mode. Stalling on long steep stairs can be quite dangerous. But in Turbo, I clear these steps every time.

So please don't try and convince me that 1000Watts and 850Watts on the DJI system makes no difference. Try it. Then make an educated statement.

Thx ..... End Rant .....

 

[Winford]

1000 watt upgrade,

Is turbo the 1 minute mode. After hitting the button? or is it its own mode separate from the 120 nm ?

 

[Astro66]

Is turbo the 1 minute mode. After hitting the button? or is it its own mode separate from the 120 nm ?

No. That is Boost.

So the only difference between my "Turbo" Mode and my 60 seconds "Boost" Mode, is Boost supposedly gives you the 1000Watts at 120Nm rather than 1000watss at 105Nm when in Turbo. I really don't use "Boost" because the bike is hard enough to control in "Turbo".

The other thing would be, is that I wouldn't want the Mode changing in the middle of a technical climb by itself, when the timer times out. You really want to be in control of power and gears. I have the same issue with the Shimano Autoshift. It all works nice, till it does a shift, right when you don't want it. So I only use coastshift, the same the DJI/SRAM system, where you choose a new gear, it just moves the chain up or down the cassette for you, without pedaling.

That said. I mostly use the power advantages that the DJI system gives, purely to climb ever more technical climbs. I'm not looking to just get up the hill 10 secs quicker. I'm looking to not dab a foot or walk. It's about the better skills I have with this motor.

But if you were just looking to get up a steep fire road quicker, because you are just trying to get to the downhill course quicker. I could see Boost Mode would be an advantage. But that's not my incentive for 95% of my rides.

 

[-nick]

Can anybody tell me the spec of the 2 hex bolts that fix the Avinox screen into the top tube (M4 x 10mm for example)

I'm looking to buy some form of security bolts so the sim card won't be easily removed should the worst happen.

 

[ricodp]

I am keen on buying an Amflow, but really want to travel overseas with it, so wanting to know about the possibility of buying a separate battery. Amflow support have said "not currently available" but wondering if anyone else has heard anything more positive?

Most likely I would be flying again next year, from Australia to Wales. I have done this several times with current and past ebikes and purchased separate batteries at the destination (my mother lives in Wales), and sold again afterwards. Renting would be even better if that was available.

This is currently a deal breaker for me, as I love to ride Cwmcarn, BPW, etc and bike hire is a nightmare from past experience. Amflow support is trying to direct me to how I can travel with an ebike on a plane, but I think we all know this is a no-go without the battery removed. And posting ahead of the trip means months without a bike.

 

[volts]

In general, having an extra battery is important. Id like to have an extra one for very long self shuttle days and as backup if the battery dies so i don't have to potentially wait months for a replacement.

 

[daytrader]

Can anybody tell me the spec of the 2 hex bolts that fix the Avinox screen into the top tube (M4 x 10mm for example)

I'm looking to buy some form of security bolts so the sim card won't be easily removed should the worst happen.

M3x8

i‘ve bought these

M3 M4 M5 M6 M8 304 A2-70 Stainless Steel Black Six Lobe Torx Button Round Head with Pin Anti-theft Security Bolt Screw - AliExpress 13

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a.aliexpress.com

 

[Ndanger]

Thank you for your reply and explanation. My last post to this - if the difference to reality is 1-2 degrees, it is "inaccuracy". OK, this is not measurement device, but indicator only, so this error is acceptable. But - if the difference is 8 degrees (almost 30-50%), this is not "inaccuracy", but big disaster. In this case temperature measurement makes no sense..
Again - if there is a possibilty to calibrate the temperature sensor (set the current temperature), problem is solved...

I am curious what the temperature sensor is for. Does it measure the electronic components, such as to monitor overheating or is it for ambient outside temperature.

 

[jam56]

I am curious what the temperature sensor is for. Does it measure the electronic components, such as to monitor overheating or is it for ambient outside temperature.

Looks like it's showing the weather on mars

 

[Ndanger]

Looks like it's showing the weather on mars

Haha... meanwhile back at the ranch, lithium batteries are sensitive to hot and cold so most (bms) battery management systems have thermal protection for freezing and overheating. I assume that is not the sensor that is being talked about.

 

[DesertDweller]

No. That is Boost.

So the only difference between my "Turbo" Mode and my 60 seconds "Boost" Mode, is Boost supposedly gives you the 1000Watts at 120Nm rather than 1000watss at 105Nm when in Turbo. I really don't use "Boost" because the bike is hard enough to control in "Turbo".

The other thing would be, is that I wouldn't want the Mode changing in the middle of a technical climb by itself, when the timer times out. You really want to be in control of power and gears. I have the same issue with the Shimano Autoshift. It all works nice, till it does a shift, right when you don't want it. So I only use coastshift, the same the DJI/SRAM system, where you choose a new gear, it just moves the chain up or down the cassette for you, without pedaling.

That said. I mostly use the power advantages that the DJI system gives, purely to climb ever more technical climbs. I'm not looking to just get up the hill 10 secs quicker. I'm looking to not dab a foot or walk. It's about the better skills I have with this motor.

But if you were just looking to get up a steep fire road quicker, because you are just trying to get to the downhill course quicker. I could see Boost Mode would be an advantage. But that's not my incentive for 95% of my rides.

I have mine set-up the same way, but ride mostly in Auto now. The Boost mode makes a 4-6 bike length difference in our eEnduro/XC races over Trail Mode at 850W and 105. That holeshot before it hits single track is a huge difference. Otherwise I almost never use Boost in daily rides.

 

[Winford]

Shimano Autoshift.

Turn that off. Its no good for a 12sp anyway and designed for 11sp as you know.

No. That is Boost.

Thak you, that is what I want and will be happy to use that.

. I'm not looking to just get up the hill 10 secs quicker

I am we have a lot of steep climbs in our 10 mile ish loops and segments where the power will give me a huge advantage.

The EP 801 is holding me back, and often I get beat trying to keep up with the Bosch guys. Might be because my motor was going south. But it was hard keeping up with them on hills.

 

[Winford]

battery management systems have thermal protection for freezing and overheating.

As do most motors.

Lucky on Shimano, the battery leds blink indicating a code. So you can tell which one you tripped if it happens.

 

[Astro66]

The EP 801 is holding me back, and often I get beat trying to keep up with the Bosch guys

If getting to the top first is important. Get the Amflow. No one will beat you up, except another Amflow.

 

[Winford]

If getting to the top first is important

Not important. But we have a huge group that is very competitive on Strava. So it gives me something to do while tracking improvement.

 

[mooby77]

Finally I bought AXS power adapter with cord for 16 EUR and connector for 11 EUR, connected them together, pluged to motor expansion port and job was done. Transmission AXS is connected to main battery.

https://allegro.sk/ponuka/nabijaci-kabel-sram-predlzovaci-kabel-axs-pre-pohonnu-jednotku-sram-eagle-16179134478?utm_feed=547ce2b2-2e28-4773-9707-58218068540e&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=SK>Sport>Bicycles>3P>PMAX&ev_campaign_id=21056415300&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAqKvbIgfeFuG3QrD5oMcSx4Vj0h87&gclid=Cj0KCQiA3sq6BhD2ARIsAJ8MRwWvcsfHzztiOK_NI6RMOBBR4TS5xacEASBgaArY59L9yOgaoiPHSzgaAoeyEALw_wcB
https://allegro.sk/produkt/pripojov...6cab2e664258d9124ef0862320b2d7366fdd6604cf017

or you could buy the cheaper version SRAM AXS Eagle EP Battery Cable Extension Cord For Bosch
and cut the end off and fit an higo micro A connector Z205AG P 00 AW 1000 @ euro 5.19, 15 minutes and your done , if you have a soldering iron, heat shrink

 

[dcxs]

Has anyone removed the freehub from their wheels? (This is the aluminum wheels). I'm trying to change the stock ones to a Microspline Amflow provided me, however they were unable to provide any instructions.. I've only had variants where I can just pull of the end cap and then the freehub, this is not possible here.

 

[Astro66]

I am returning to a full carbon wheelset, after building a full Alloy mullet wheelset, on my PL Carbon Pro.

So I've ordered a new 30mm internal , 36mm external, 30mm height, 27.5 carbon rim in 32H. New boost XD hub in 32H and Oil Spill Colouring. New SS J hook black spokes. New gold nipples.

I'm going to build a new carbon 29er front wheel from the Amflow front rim So I also ordered a 28H front hub in Oil Spill Colouring. New SS J hook black spokes and Gold Nipples.

I already have Gold 203 SRAM rotors, so I'll be transferring them over.

I should lose about 300 grams on my existing Alloy Wheelset I fitted, when I first mulleted the Amflow.

I'm going to keep my Alloy 27.5 rear wheel that I built. As I'm not sure about running Carbon as a rear wheel. The Alloy 27.5 already has the Oil Spill colouring so can be swapped back at any time.

It will be great to return to the bike to it's original wheelset material.

 

[Winford]

returning to a full carbon wheelset

After first ride I need a 27.5 on mine, I am way to used to a mullet set up, the 29er seemed slow in tight stuff.

But the high speed stability was awesome.

I guess I need to reach out to one of the Chinese vendors and have them build me one with a dt swiss 370 LN xd boost hub 30mm id width. Pretty sure these are no name hubs that we have from the factory. I have had great luck with these guys on all my other bikes.

 

[Winford]

removed the freehub

the gears and hub should pull off, sometimes they seem a little stuck, but ive never seen one attached mechanically

 

[Astro66]

After first ride I need a 27.5 on mine,

I went alloy wheelset, just to try the mullet configuration. I am definitely sticking with mullet. The bike just feels a little more playful, and no butt buzz.

Returning to carbon is more about returning the Pro to it original wheelset material, than any performance gain. Though those couple of extra hundred grams of weight loss in the wheels should improve suspension response and also, ease of moving the bike around, especially in the air.

 

[y0sh1mura]

Geotracking on Avinox it’s a little bit….
Strava times do not match with Garmin or other external gps recorded activity

You can’t autopause activity when you stops some short period of time (less than 2kms/h)
And activity is splinted in two activities when you stops at coffee stop.

Strava segments recorded with Avinox and those recorded with an external GPS may have differences of more than 10 seconds.

I wear my hammerhead Karoo on handlebar and forgot Avinox activities

It would be wonderful if it worked properly and could be synced with other platforms besides Strava.

Alternatively, it would be ideal if third-party GPS devices (Hammerhead, Wahoo, Garmin) could read Avinox data via Bluetooth or ANT+, such as remaining battery, assistance mode, cadence and the cyclist's power output.