This statement doesn't answer their question, and I am still waiting to see some quality range tests, as the few I have seen were flawed. Example in the one range test the rider had shuttle turned on the entire test. I want to see a constant cadence in Turbo & Trail, also would like to see min /max efforts with micro tune. At the end of the day Yes if you ride it at max power all the time it will use more power than the gen3.... but then are you even MTBing?
I said this in the rumors thread, that if you were on the fence about this bike then you better get off as you would end up paying more. I was told the same thing that the price tag on these bikes would show the regular price plus the added tariff cost in the USA. Now how this works in other countries.. no idea... but my s-works would basically get 2k more expensive, and NO.. your LBS is not eating that price!
Wind resistance is a bitch over 20 mph and also hilly roads to the trailhead might be a limiting factors - I want to test this out - but I am not sure if I have this feature, still checking on this.
You need dyno testing for that. I think Velomotion did some testing in a neutral setting like that. In a real world approach there are too many variables.
Well when I first got the bike I slapped it into class 3 and was up to 26-28mph and it felt pretty easy (but the parking lot is only so big), but I agree that holding 28mph in the wind on a MTB may take some effort. What I have not tried to see is if shuttle works in class 3, if it does I would imagine being up at 28mph wont be very difficult. But again warning everyone as I have seen it wrong on here several times you don't get full power in class 3... its not hard to imagine why
I completely agree and Velomotion did the only constant type of test I have seen.
,there is also Android Users but we don't care.My first go at Mavens. SRAM's bleed video does the piston massage at the end of the bleed process but I've seen others recommend doing it prior to changing fluid. Have a preference?
Well most people are not 5'2"- 157cm and don't require 155mm cranks1
Disconnect of Transmission Rear Derailleur from internal battery:
Yeah it's a shame those who can afford S-Works can't afford a couple of cables and the cheapest version got fancy alloy 155mm.
Did some tool based calculations and 170-180 fork with 155 cranks und neutral headset setting sounds legit to me (s4 similar to my 2020 slayer size large). Main concern remains BB height, other numbers are very similar in that setup
yes you right i didnt look closely but whatever it feels strong. For example we got on a paved trail and I turned on the class 3 , switched bikes with my buddy on gen 3 who has to be 275lbs, and had a little race. he passed me no problem and was laughing like a little kid. I will try again to see if its harder on steep climbs but if thats 250w then thats all I/we need.
Pretty sure the class 3 feature will shine on paved / flat trails and then lack on the climbs as it also cuts torque...
Don't hate on us Dentists
Immediately changed to the LONG setting to add stability... The bike can get routey in the short config at high speeds on chatter... but to each thier own
For basic trail riding I thought the bike felt great with the stock stettings and i would not want to increase the chainstay because that would make it harder to lift the front end and also lower the bb which i though cleared logs a little better than gen 3. The cornering felt great so I would not want to mess with head angle either.
No need to touch the levers or remove the wheels or pads. Just inject all you can into the caliper and twist off with mild pressure. you must pressurize the system to get rid of the play. you can adjust the play by adjusting the pressure so if you made it too tight just open the port again and close with less pressure. The pistons will not move when you inject or move the lever when the caliper port is open so dont worry about that. . of course when you attach the syinge to the caliper and open 1/4 turn, pull back gently to remove any air bubbles before injecting. easy and takes only a few minutes. There is no video on this i figured out myself after being so frustrated with codes. when you try it you will be amazed and then you can tune up your buddies and they will be amazed.
Just did some back to back testing on a steep dirt hill. there was no discernable difference between class 1 and 3 thank god and i had to work hard to get it over 25 mph on the flat grass. Same feel as a regular bike when you are up to speed. which is the goal right.? i dont like to feel the power take over and the delivery is smoother than before so its like the ad says, you only more. The bike does not have that much power so people should relax its a gentle assist not a huge surge of uncontrollable power even in turbo . the only difference is you don't get that annoying deceleration at 20. around 20 is the time i really want that little extra to go a couple mph faster and keep my speed on a rough DH using the same effort as regular bike. As it is now, i have to work harder on the ebike to go as fast in that situation and so that's the gamechanger for me because now it works like i always wished it did and the bike is not holding me back.
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Genuinely curious what your opinion of an unbiased review is. It's common for people (myself included at times) to perceive an opinion or review as unbiased if I agree with the opinion whereas when people have a different point of view, they project that that person is biased. Your image on your profile implies you may have your own bias.
Totally unbiased review!
