Unno Mith released with DJI motor, 800Wh battery

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gbcoke said:
2 things prevent it to be the perfect bike for me, one is the sizing, at 1.82 I look for 475+- reach and the second is the suspension which by the review on emtb mag is very stiff and demands high sag in order to work well.

@Rob Rides EMTB did you ride the bike ? Any input on the suspension and riding feel ?
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I've only read one other Unno review and it was pretty damning of the performance. As in, not good at all.
This is the best looking bike I've ever seen with a killer weight for the parts and battery size though.
 
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Suns_PSD said:
I've only read one other Unno review and it was pretty damning of the performance. As in, not good at all.
This is the best looking bike I've ever seen with a killer weight for the parts and battery size though.
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The Pinkbike one?

I do wonder what would make the bikes appear so unusual to test riders. The previous 40perc. sag was suspicious but that's no longer tested in the latest review and it still comes to similar conclusion of the bike being demanding.
Cesar is former downhill racer I am rather convinced he knows what bike should ride like, is he tuning the bikes to be more racer-like in setup? And reviewers are more used to Specialized-like setup?

I mean nothing on the graphs or the geo strikes as different, it was just the big sag.
For what it's worth, I sent them email if Elite model (8.5k EUR) build would be coming and got reply that no for this year. 10K is bit too much for build with while yes, Kashima factory, but with the Float-X, instead of non-factory X2. That would be expensive for starter build to replace.

Looks very attractive though..
 
Specs says all X2 components on the Pro version:

Fork​

Fox 38 Factory
170mm travel. Kashima coating. Grip X2 damper. 15x110 axle. Adjustments: HSC, LSC, HSR, LSR. 44mm offset.

Shock​

Fox Float X2 Factory
230x65mm. Kashima coating. 2-pos lever. VVC Rebound. Adjustments: HSC, LSC, HSR, LSR.
 
George_KSL said:
The Pinkbike one?

I do wonder what would make the bikes appear so unusual to test riders. The previous 40perc. sag was suspicious but that's no longer tested in the latest review and it still comes to similar conclusion of the bike being demanding.
Cesar is former downhill racer I am rather convinced he knows what bike should ride like, is he tuning the bikes to be more racer-like in setup? And reviewers are more used to Specialized-like setup?

I mean nothing on the graphs or the geo strikes as different, it was just the big sag.
For what it's worth, I sent them email if Elite model (8.5k EUR) build would be coming and got reply that no for this year. 10K is bit too much for build with while yes, Kashima factory, but with the Float-X, instead of non-factory X2. That would be expensive for starter build to replace.

Looks very attractive though..
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Yes the PB one.

I had a size large Mondraker Foxy 29 when it was first released. 490mm Reach with 435mm chain stays.
Not certain if Cesar was part of that bikes development or not and it also utilized the same shock placement.
My wife's bike is still a Foxy 27.5 SL.
Anyways, I loved the aesthetics of the bike, but the rear suspension was very harsh off the top (Megneg essentially removed this issue) but the big problem was that terrible lack of front wheel traction. I of course lengthened the short 30mm stem, slid the seat all of the way forward, lowered my bars, rode with an 'active' style (basically actively weighting the front end) and all helped tremendously. The weighting of the front end in fast sweeper turns honestly became exhausting and was never as fast as a balanced bike.
Then I bought a SJEvo with long CS and before it was even set up, the SJ blew every PR I had over the previous 2 years away on the Foxy from ride #1. It was 80% front wheel traction & maybe 20% Horst Link (which really is very superior to other suspension configurations).
Really the Mith is beautiful it has a great motor; it's so exotic, But bikes like this just scare me that they aren't going to work the way I want them to work when I'm going quite fast.
I'm going to find a Forbidden E-Druid to test to get a feel for that whole short reach thing. But ultimately I'll likely buy the regulator CX. It's the second best motor system but the geo, cable shifting, HL, dropper insertion, etc is all dialed and from a reliable brand.
 
Doomanic said:
It's all relative. It might actually be a better climber than some bikes but not as good as others, I doubt very much that it's "shit" as you so eloquently put it. From the geo comparison in the other thread it very closely matches my KSL so I suspect that I'd be more than happy with it.
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S4 Kenevo SL2 has 635mm stack hight and S3 Mith has 656mm. That`s huge difference.
 
Bndit said:
S4 Kenevo SL2 has 635mm stack hight and S3 Mith has 656mm. That`s huge difference.
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S3 KSL is 626 and S2 Unno is 636, so closer. I run 30mm of spacers under 20mm rise bars on the KSL so I suspect the difference can be accommodated.
I get it, you don't like the Mith, despite having never ridden one. I do like it, also despite having never ridden one. we will just have to agree to disagree on this and move on.
 
I ride 30mm spacers under 30mm riser bars so I have even taller stack, but I believe my mulleting and stack increase shortened my effective reach from 460 perhaps to as low as 445 or something? With BB High-mode, the CS Length is 442. It feels well balanced.

I always felt that while S3 KSL felt sweet, with weight of e-bikes, I could try size lower. Not sure what bike with longer chainstays than reach feels like though (S1 Mith is 430 Reach and 450 CS).
Getting new toy even with selling old toy feels like bad idea in current mad-house. If at least the Amflow was black in non-pro version :- D.
Something between Amflow and the boutique duo (Unno & Druid) would be nice. (Yeah I've seen the few weird no-name brands but those just look like not interesting bikes)
 
Bndit said:
S4 Kenevo SL2 has 635mm stack hight and S3 Mith has 656mm. That`s huge difference.
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Its always interesting what others consider important geo spec.

For me i dont care to much bout stack other than i dont want a rediculously big head tube length. I'm usually ordering mediums so head tube length is not that bad typically.

My geo deal breakers are chain stay length, bb drop, reach, seat seat tube length, dropper insertion and hta.
Mith fails my chain stay length spec at 450 its too long. I want 445 maximum. Other than that the rest of the geo is good for me.
 
Plummet said:
Its always interesting what others consider important geo spec.

For me i dont care to much bout stack other than i dont want a rediculously big head tube length. I'm usually ordering mediums so head tube length is not that bad typically.

My geo deal breakers are chain stay length, bb drop, reach, seat seat tube length, dropper insertion and hta.
Mith fails my chain stay length spec at 450 its too long. I want 445 maximum. Other than that the rest of the geo is good for me.
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Its a nice bike for sure spec wise but for us Kiwi's $20,000 for the base model plus shipping and taxes...
 
I ordered on second 1 - would be June delivery. Noticed how sick the price is for a - beside influencers - not really tested system and canceled. I believe its pretty good but market share might be below 0,1%. Don´t forget it when you decide - YT and bike marketing makes it look like there is nothing else on the market right now but the opposite is the case...

Edit: Personal tipp: hold on for the new Bosch Update and when the Bosch Display for the smart system will be available. Guess all the hype on the Amflow will be equalized.
 
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JP-NZ said:
Its a nice bike for sure spec wise but for us Kiwi's $20,000 for the base model plus shipping and taxes...
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Yeah, But boutique is boutique. Its the lambo of bike brands, Is it the most practical or cost effective? No.
Is it cool as Fuck? yes.

Just like the lambo you pay for the coolness and boutiqueness.
Want practical and cost effective. Go grab a trek rail. But its a belly button bike.... everyone had one!.

Am I buying one? No. But, my Crestline has just landed and that's not my different in price so I can't really judge too hard about the dudes wanting one of these.
 
Plummet said:
Its always interesting what others consider important geo spec.

For me i dont care to much bout stack other than i dont want a rediculously big head tube length. I'm usually ordering mediums so head tube length is not that bad typically.

My geo deal breakers are chain stay length, bb drop, reach, seat seat tube length, dropper insertion and hta.
Mith fails my chain stay length spec at 450 its too long. I want 445 maximum. Other than that the rest of the geo is good for me.
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For me everything in geo matters, have to be balanced. First I check reach to see how the riding position might look like and then top tube lenght to get idea about sitting position. But of course every possible measure matters. I have now 475mm reach and 623mm top tube. Like those measures. I have noticed that beceause of bigger batteries I’m falling between sizes on many new bikes and they are already fitted with short stems so cannot fix the riding position with that either. Like Mith, S2 460mm and s3 490mm….
 
Apparently DJI have only given them 400 motors in total, very hard to get S3 here in UK? Would love one based on looks and my experience to date with the DJI motor.
 
I would think that 400 is enough for a boutique brand; better for them that they sell out rather than have warehouses full of out of date bikes...
 
Can’t make my mind up with size I would be going for.

I ride S4 in Kenevo SL and is perfect fit with 35mm Stem and I’ve got 180mm forks on it with 155 cranks. I can touch the floor with 150 seat post slammed. But this MITH has a longer insertion length which can only be a good thing.


Also missis has my S3 KSL1 and that was to small a reach and felt like I was going over the bars.

Now is the S3 going to be to big a bike, I will of course be changing out the dropper to a 150 or 170 as the 210 is far to big for my short legs.
 
Killswitch73 said:
Can’t make my mind up with size I would be going for.

I ride S4 in Kenevo SL and is perfect fit with 35mm Stem and I’ve got 180mm forks on it with 155 cranks. I can touch the floor with 150 seat post slammed. But this MITH has a longer insertion length which can only be a good thing.


Also missis has my S3 KSL1 and that was to small a reach and felt like I was going over the bars.

Now is the S3 going to be to big a bike, I will of course be changing out the dropper to a 150 or 170 as the 210 is far to big for my short legs.
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I've ordered an S2. The wheel base and reach on the S3 is huge compared to all the large size bikes I've owned over the years other than Mondrakers. I'm on a large Bullit at the moment. It's 15mm longer in the reach but very similar wheel base. I'm not sure I'm going to really noticed the 15mm if I'm honest have run a tape measure over my Bullit to actually see what that looks like.
 
5Tuey said:
I've ordered an S2. The wheel base and reach on the S3 is huge compared to all the large size bikes I've owned over the years other than Mondrakers. I'm on a large Bullit at the moment. It's 15mm longer in the reach but very similar wheel base. I'm not sure I'm going to really noticed the 15mm if I'm honest have run a tape measure over my Bullit to actually see what that looks like.
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How tall are you ?


I’m not a jumper and the trails near me are all technical rocky and flowing and fast so maybe I could size up to the S3 but would need a 32.5 stem I think.

The S2 I would need to put a 60mm stem on and higher rise bars.

The stand over height on the MITH S3 is much shorter than my S4 KSL2.
 
Killswitch73 said:
How tall are you ?


I’m not a jumper and the trails near me are all technical rocky and flowing and fast so maybe I could size up to the S3 but would need a 32.5 stem I think.

The S2 I would need to put a 60mm stem on and higher rise bars.

The stand over height on the MITH S3 is much shorter than my S4 KSL2.
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180cm/5’11”. I ride mostly tight off-piste forest trails.
 
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Bndit said:
For me everything in geo matters, have to be balanced. First I check reach to see how the riding position might look like and then top tube lenght to get idea about sitting position. But of course every possible measure matters. I have now 475mm reach and 623mm top tube. Like those measures. I have noticed that beceause of bigger batteries I’m falling between sizes on many new bikes and they are already fitted with short stems so cannot fix the riding position with that either. Like Mith, S2 460mm and s3 490mm….
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Fair enough. If 475 reach is your jam then the mith is not for you.
 
How is the tube with 800W battery so much slimmer than anything else out there, it looks less wide from top than majority of SL bikes (some of which only appear svelte from side, like Orbea for example).
This is unreal profile.
It looks more SL than most actual SL bikes. Crazy.

Pure cheating bike :- D ! Previously you had to be at least ashamed by the fat pig under you to enjoy that power and mileage.
 
Killswitch73 said:
How tall are you ?


I’m not a jumper and the trails near me are all technical rocky and flowing and fast so maybe I could size up to the S3 but would need a 32.5 stem I think.

The S2 I would need to put a 60mm stem on and higher rise bars.

The stand over height on the MITH S3 is much shorter than my S4 KSL2.
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Just a perspective... If you have a bike that has front wheel traction issues, short stems will exasperate this quality and a long stem will improve this condition, a lot. As will differences in Front end length vs Rear end length. Worth noting that the review tested the S2 and had front end traction issues, it'll almost certainly be an even larger issue on an S3 since the rear end length remains the same and the front grows so much.

The last thing to consider is that Works connection sells these very handy little 5mm Reach adjust headsets for nearly any bike made so utilizing one of these can often Plus or Minus 5mm of reach on nearly anything. Which is handy for closing up huge sizing gaps.

So at least consider this in your sizing equation.

Cesar Rojo has always been a proponent of very short stems, so I'd be very curious what size stem the Mith had on it. Adding 15mm of stem length, from say a 30mm (standard on Mondrakers) to a 45mm, is a different world as far as front end traction goes.

Unfortunately, long stems begin to feel very awkward and require a lot of excessive movement. I consider 45mm the upper end for an enduro bike with wide bars and about 60mm the upper end on a XC bike with narrow bars. Long stems are sort of like steering one of those old fashioned motor boats where you steer them with the long stick in the back. The longer the stick (or stem in our case) the wider and larger the movements you have to make to turn the engine (or front wheel in our case)

GL
 
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