Levo SL Gen 1 Official Levo SL Thread

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Do you remember whether you liked it for the SL? As mentioned, I'm feeling that the DPS is just not enough for me - I'm over 200lbs, ride fast with a lot of harsh/chattery and natural terrain (rocks/roots). Changing my fork from 34 to 36 did wonders for me (I kept 150mm though) I don't jump, but feel that DPS might not be enough, X2 could be overkill? (Float X won't fit with the battery)
Changing from Fox 34 to Fox 36 should have changed it to 160mm Travel.
 
Just fitted my new shock, the bushing that were already on it fitted perfectly

Didnt need to swap them out with the DPS ones

Set it to the recommended Fox settings, but will dial it in when riding

Only downside is I have to put my bottle cage back on for my RE, as it is too tight of a fit using the Fidlock boa adaptor, still not an issue, Ill just have to remember to swap to the bottle cage before I go out on rides that will need the RE
 
Only downside is I have to put my bottle cage back on for my RE, as it is too tight of a fit using the Fidlock boa adaptor, still not an issue, Ill just have to remember to swap to the bottle cage before I go out on rides that will need the RE
Is the RE so big?
I'm using the new large Fidlock 0,75l Bottle without collision to the X2 im my L frame
 
Is the RE so big?
I'm using the new large Fidlock 0,75l Bottle without collision to the X2 im my L frame

Not really, its just when using the Fidlock Boa adaptor it puts it about 3mm from the bottom of the shock

When using the normal cage there is plenty of clearance
 
Question re tune settings

Am I right in assumign the 50 / 50 will give more range than 25 / 100

I currently have eco in 25 /100 and Turbo in 100 / 100

Trail is 50 / 50

So would that give me more range due to limiting the amount of power the motor will give out
 
Is it normal to be able to back pedal and have your pedals spin freely with no resistance? On my KSL, when I back pedal, the chain ring will rotate the chain around the cassette for around 3 rotations and then continue with some resistance but the chain stops moving. Is this a sign that one of the motors is going to die soon?
 
Question re tune settings

Am I right in assumign the 50 / 50 will give more range than 25 / 100

I currently have eco in 25 /100 and Turbo in 100 / 100

Trail is 50 / 50

So would that give me more range due to limiting the amount of power the motor will give out
I'm not sure it's that simple.

50/50 might give more range than 25/100 in steep terrain, or when pedalling hard - as 50 is the max power it can give you. But 25/100 will probably give better range in general riding or more mellow terrain.
 
Is it normal to be able to back pedal and have your pedals spin freely with no resistance? On my KSL, when I back pedal, the chain ring will rotate the chain around the cassette for around 3 rotations and then continue with some resistance but the chain stops moving. Is this a sign that one of the motors is going to die soon?
I think it is supposed to spin backwards without moving the chain. Mine tends to do the same thing, but is otherwise running as usual. My motor is heading towards 6.500 km. My first motor was replaced precautionary under warranty for the same symptom after 3.800 km. This time I'll wait and see.
 
I think it is supposed to spin backwards without moving the chain. Mine tends to do the same thing, but is otherwise running as usual. My motor is heading towards 6.500 km. My first motor was replaced precautionary under warranty for the same symptom after 3.800 km. This time I'll wait and see.
Thanks for your response. Maybe I have never noticed it before on the 2020 SL but my KSL has had 2 replacement motors and that is the one that has some resistance and drags the chain for at least a full rotation of the crank.
 
I'm not sure it's that simple.

50/50 might give more range than 25/100 in steep terrain, or when pedalling hard - as 50 is the max power it can give you. But 25/100 will probably give better range in general riding or more mellow terrain.
Thanks for the reply

Ive sold the bike now and gone to a full powered EBike instead
 
Does anyone else shift up a couple of gears when overtaking other riders or walkers, because the slower cadence makes the motor almost silent and they are less likely to realise you're on an ebike 😆
 
Does anyone else shift up a couple of gears when overtaking other riders or walkers, because the slower cadence makes the motor almost silent and they are less likely to realise you're on an ebike 😆
Call me Canadian but you could always try speaking to them to cover up the motor sound (if it offends you so much). I find people prefer a friendly "G'day mate! Pleasant day for a ride/walk!" over being roosted by a jerk on a emtb.
 
Call me Canadian but you could always try speaking to them to cover up the motor sound (if it offends you so much). I find people prefer a friendly "G'day mate! Pleasant day for a ride/walk!" over being roosted by a jerk on a emtb.
Think you may have misunderstood my post in your haste to activate hero mode. Zero roosting past or being a jerk. The point is at slower cadence the motor is very quite, and like it or not some people are triggered by ebikes so if they don't realise it's one they don't get triggered. And FWIW I'm about the most friendly and polite rider on the trails that's happy to wait and always says hello...
 
Think you may have misunderstood my post in your haste to activate hero mode. Zero roosting past or being a jerk. The point is at slower cadence the motor is very quite, and like it or not some people are triggered by ebikes so if they don't realise it's one they don't get triggered. And FWIW I'm about the most friendly and polite rider on the trails that's happy to wait and always says hello...
Good to hear you are one of "friendly" emtb'rs. Since Covid and the influx of new riders, there has been a number of full powered a$$holes powering up the climbing trails, blasting past regular riders and hikers, which does nothing to help our acceptance. My point was, I am pretty sure people you pass, know you are on an emtb. Friendly words seem to work here in Canada. YMMV.
 
Resurrecting this thread for advice.
I love my SL v1, but I tend to bottom out the shock too often and too harsh (which is a surprise as I am not that aggressive rider). Even though I am using the bigger possible spacer.

So I am thinking to go for cascade link and maybe (finally) try a coil shock.

In the past I saw several riders riding the DVO Jade X. Is it still a good option? Or what coil would you go nowadays on the SL? Remark: I ride a size S, so I need some clearance for the bottle cage/range extender :P
 
A coil shock is more linear than an air shock, so for your issue I would recommend a better air shock than the stock Fox float or coil. DVO Topaz Gen 3 for example or Float X or similar where you can really dial up the progression easily. If you really want to try a coil, get a progressive spring by DVO or Cane Creek, that will help. I also highly recommend the Cascade link on this bike for the same reason. I've used an Ohlins on mine w/progressive spring from Cane Creek, stay away from Fox coil or Marzhocchi as the shafts on those will just break over time. DVO or Ohlins for coil are safest bet.
 
A coil shock is more linear than an air shock, so for your issue I would recommend a better air shock than the stock Fox float or coil. DVO Topaz Gen 3 for example or Float X or similar where you can really dial up the progression easily. If you really want to try a coil, get a progressive spring by DVO or Cane Creek, that will help. I also highly recommend the Cascade link on this bike for the same reason. I've used an Ohlins on mine w/progressive spring from Cane Creek, stay away from Fox coil or Marzhocchi as the shafts on those will just break over time. DVO or Ohlins for coil are safest bet.
Appreciate your inside.

I am running the DPX2 that came stock on the S-Works frame.
I am pretty sure I am going for the cascade in any case.
If I decide for the coil I am most probably going DVO for the position of the piggy back and also for the cost. So I will then also go for the progressive spring as you recommend. Thank you!!
 
Sure, glad to help. LSL has a super linear suspension so both the Cascade and progressive spring give the bike better platform, without is a noodle.
 
I just read though that the new dvo jade X Prime is not compatible with the levo sl. I would need the old jade X.
Or I need to go for something else. But I understand better RockShox 🤔
 
If you weren't in Europe I'd offer to sell you my Ohlins since I'm selling my LSL. I think Rockshox is fine for durability but the Ohlins has a more compact piggy back. I've been running the Topaz Gen 3 for about a year, really like it, water bottle/range extender fits in on my medium fine.
 
If you weren't in Europe I'd offer to sell you my Ohlins since I'm selling my LSL. I think Rockshox is fine for durability but the Ohlins has a more compact piggy back. I've been running the Topaz Gen 3 for about a year, really like it, water bottle/range extender fits in on my medium fine.
Out of curiosity, did you ride the old tttx22m or the newer .m2?

How did you calculate what spring to buy? I cannot find the ohlins calculator for the coil on the levo sl 🧐
 
Ohlins TTX22M Coil Rear Shock - 210 x 55mm Metric

I used tf tuned's spring calculator (be sure to read carefully for ebike factors)
Levo SL is a "4 bar" style suspension

You might need to try a couple of spring rates to get the feel you want. FYI, DVO springs will not fit on the Ohlins but CC progressive springs will fit the Ohlins
 
Thanks!
I will most probably also go for the "old" ttx as I will save some money. Moreover it seems there is one specific model for the Stumpjumper/Levo SL. Maybe it has a dedicated tune.

For the springs I will definitely have to guess on a couple of them, also bcs I see the range on the progressive ones is quite large :)
 
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