Bafang M820 Firmware thread

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If some of you need a « proof » 😀
IMG_8099.jpeg
 
Tried this firmware for a while. I think this make better power delivery than my previous 102002.2 firmware. Later will test power decrease under 20% battery.
How are you developing firmware for the m820? Do you work for bafang or a bike OEM? Please add me to distribution list for upcoming releases. Also, if you need beta tester please let me know.
 
How are you developing firmware for the m820? Do you work for bafang or a bike OEM? Please add me to distribution list for upcoming releases. Also, if you need beta tester please let me know.
Nope, just download it from Besst with special account from friend :)
 
Tried this firmware for a while. I think this make better power delivery than my previous 102002.2 firmware. Later will test power decrease under 20% battery.
Confirm power decrease under 18% with this firmware. Maximum at 100w power in all level assist.
 
I have tested yesterday 4813. I don't remember who have shared it, but i said THANK YOU 👏. This firmware is more powerfull than my previous 4812 (and it consume a few more, normal). with speed mode setted at 80% i climb all i need more easly and whitout any power variations (upper mode not tested).

The strange thing is that when you upload to ther BESST, it read 4813 rev, but if you read after download on controller, it read 4812 ?
 

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Hola, en el motor de 36v qué firmware es el mejor o qué configuraciones tienes, hay CRX30PC3615E102003.2 y CRX30PC3615E102003.3, pero con besst pro si actualizas en línea se supone que otra versión es anterior a la CRX30PC3615E102002.2. ¿Puedes decirme qué opciones son mejores? El motor venía con un límite de velocidad de 45 kh, pero cuando lo actualizas ya no puedes modificar más de 27 kh para Europa. Además, ¿podría decirme cómo podríamos modificar el límite de velocidad?
 
Hola, en el motor de 36v qué firmware es el mejor o qué configuraciones tienes, hay CRX30PC3615E102003.2 y CRX30PC3615E102003.3, pero con besst pro si actualizas en línea se supone que otra versión es anterior a la CRX30PC3615E102002.2. ¿Puedes decirme qué opciones son mejores? El motor venía con un límite de velocidad de 45 kh, pero cuando lo actualizas ya no puedes modificar más de 27 kh para Europa. Además, ¿podría decirme cómo podríamos modificar el límite de velocidad?
First tune how you want it in besst pro, then use old version of besst tool(1.2.20). There you can set speed limit to what you want.

Download here:

Github
 
Primero ajuste cómo lo desea en best pro, luego use la versión anterior de best herramienta (1.2.20). Allí puede establecer el límite de velocidad que desee.

Descarga aquí:

GitHub
Gracias Freda, con la mejor herramienta (1.2.20) puedes cambiar el límite de velocidad.
 
¿Alguien ha probado este firmware 36v CRX30PC3615E102003.3?
Hola ficorama, he probado la versión de 36v CRX30PC3615E102003.3 y funciona bien, puedes cambiar los parámetros con la aplicación bafang go+ y puedes cambiar el límite de velocidad con la mejor herramienta 1.2.20.
 
Hola ficorama, he probado la versión de 36v CRX30PC3615E102003.3 y funciona bien, puedes cambiar los parámetros con la aplicación bafang go+ y puedes cambiar el límite de velocidad con la mejor herramienta 1.2.20.
It happened to me today while driving that it throws error e09 in B mode. Do you have any problems in B mode?
 
hasta ahora no he tenido ningún error
today I tried it while the engine is completely cold, it doesn't throw out any error! nor does it turn off assistance. it only turns off the engine when it warms up a bit. but without error. I think it's all related to temperature and when it draws a lot of current.
 
He instalado el firmware de 36V CRX30PC3615E102003.3 besst pro, nos dice que tiene una actualización de firmware de 36V CRX30PC3615E102002.2, se supone que esta es más antigua, ¿sabes cual es la última actualización real para el m820 36v?
 
Hello. does anyone have a good emtb 36v firmware? the one I got from Linda is an e-road. no power to drive uphill.
 
I have tested yesterday 4813. I don't remember who have shared it, but i said THANK YOU 👏. This firmware is more powerfull than my previous 4812 (and it consume a few more, normal). with speed mode setted at 80% i climb all i need more easly and whitout any power variations (upper mode not tested).

The strange thing is that when you upload to ther BESST, it read 4813 rev, but if you read after download on controller, it read 4812 ?
are you using a bafang or custom battery with this firmware?
 
Question from a newbie: I have the m820 motor kit and will be installing into the frame in about a month. As it turns out I was sent the c245 Ver. 2 controller and not the V.3 controller I asked for. The seller said that Bafang still considers the V.2 to the be current model - anyways the seller agreed to credit me $50 because of that mix-up so I could buy the V.3.

Here is my question: Should I put the $50 towards a V.3 controller and have access to Go+ OR should I put it towards the Beset Tool? In other words, if you could only have one which would it be assuming the average eMTB user as far as modify the firmware, etc. of motors but is otherwise capable.

TIA,
 
Question from a newbie: I have the m820 motor kit and will be installing into the frame in about a month. As it turns out I was sent the c245 Ver. 2 controller and not the V.3 controller I asked for. The seller said that Bafang still considers the V.2 to the be current model - anyways the seller agreed to credit me $50 because of that mix-up so I could buy the V.3.

Here is my question: Should I put the $50 towards a V.3 controller and have access to Go+ OR should I put it towards the Beset Tool? In other words, if you could only have one which would it be assuming the average eMTB user as far as modify the firmware, etc. of motors but is otherwise capable.

TIA,
IMHO everything you can do with Go+ app can be done with BESST. Not so the other way around. Actually, the functionality of Go+ app is very limited, you can't even setup proper wheel size. I'd skip Go+ and go for BESST.
 
I agree, GO+ might be the future, but for now it is very limited and full of bugs.
 
I agree, GO+ might be the future, but for now it is very limited and full of bugs.
Thanks guys - Besst tool it is!

And Freda, I know you DIY'd your battery, and I am doing mine as well - is there anyone here that has built their own battery and had any problems or regrets using all nickel vs copper in the assymbly?

Every eBike battery forum says nickel is far inferior, etc. but virtually every battery I see here is nickel and they are big, complex batteries.

I ask because I can spot weld nickel strips easily but .15 copper is impossible for me.
 
Thanks guys - Besst tool it is!

And Freda, I know you DIY'd your battery, and I am doing mine as well - is there anyone here that has built their own battery and had any problems or regrets using all nickel vs copper in the assymbly?

Every eBike battery forum says nickel is far inferior, etc. but virtually every battery I see here is nickel and they are big, complex batteries.

I ask because I can spot weld nickel strips easily but .15 copper is impossible for me.
Interesting! I am trying to make up my mind about this myself. The battery I am using so far, a 13SP3, has been working without any issues. I am no expert. I used 8x0,15mm nickel, around 7A should be ok. In 3P it will never get that high. Pushing +600W it is only just over 4A per strip. Normally much less.

I would like to make a second smaller(lighter) battery + extender. On most of my rides a +500Wh battery would be enough. And it would be almost one kilogram lighter and that is from the front of the bike! Main battery would use 8A max per strip. I would put double nickel strips on all. Second option is building with smaller 18650 cells and same 13S3P configuration. It would be easier to build and I could use cellbrackets(2x3 cell 18650 brackets fits in the LCE930 frame).

The extender is the problem. It would be a nice, light and very small extender, to build a 13S1P using 20700 cells. But making nice welds with 3 strips on top of each other is not so easy. Copper would be better, but I have nore the skills or equipment to weld it. Whatever I do I think I am staying with nickel.

This is partly the reason I wanted the 48V version.
 
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