SZZS specific CEF50-main thread (initial builds and troubleshooting related only)

⚡ EMTB Pro Go Pro — exclusive discounts & ad-free Peaty's 25% off & more · Ad-free browsing · Pro badge See the deals →
For what it's worth...Quick warranty followup on "cracked" chainstay at the drop out.
PXL_20230911_004956871.jpg

First off, after a a few weeks of convincing, SZZS did agree to warranty the CEF50 chainstay with a replacement for just shipping $24 USD. 🤛

So, the Quality Control person asked me to shave off a few layers of paint and carbon to probe the crack depth. After, it looked superficial. They suspected that it might have been a thin air pocket in carbon layup.

Maybe...🤔

But since then (4 weeks) of riding it (XC trails) with the new paint, it has NOT started cracking again. So, it could indeed be just a minor manufacturing flaw.

PXL_20230915_215745617.MP.jpg


Either way, it's cheaper to replace it rather than speculate that the old chainstay might hold under future, greater distress. 💪

16965232820327980092219694780896.jpg

Hopefully, the warranty replacement is only a few more weeks away. Because I'd like to finally paint the stays to pair it with my warranty front triangle...finally the weather is cool enough to DIY spray the clear paint and clear coat.🤟
 
For what it's worth...Quick warranty followup on "cracked" chainstay at the drop out.
View attachment 126137
First off, after a a few weeks of convincing, SZZS did agree to warranty the CEF50 chainstay with a replacement for just shipping $24 USD. 🤛

So, the Quality Control person asked me to shave off a few layers of paint and carbon to probe the crack depth. After, it looked superficial. They suspected that it might have been a thin air pocket in carbon layup.

Maybe...🤔

But since then (4 weeks) of riding it (XC trails) with the new paint, it has NOT started cracking again. So, it could indeed be just a minor manufacturing flaw.

View attachment 126136

Either way, it's cheaper to replace it rather than speculate that the old chainstay might hold under future, greater distress. 💪

View attachment 126135
Hopefully, the warranty replacement is only a few more weeks away. Because I'd like to finally paint the stays to pair it with my warranty front triangle...finally the weather is cool enough to DIY spray the clear paint and clear coat.🤟
Better to be safe than sorry. Not to mention, the frame's covered for 2 years. If I were in your shoes, I'd do the same thing👍🏿
 
Several months ago, because of the delays with DP C245 v3, I bought a DZ41 to get me going.
When eventually the DPC245v3 arrived, I tuned the motor and put DPC245v3 into storage. I'm still using the DZ41 because It's inexpensive and does the job. If it breaks, it doesn't hurt so much.
I even used a spare old phone (who doesn't have one lying around? :p) because the app seems to be a bit invasive. Probably not malicious, but I didn't like the way it wants to keep running in the background.

Basically I just wanted to tune the motor and then forget about it.View attachment 125494
Does it connect with the bafang go+ app. I purchased it and it doesn't connect to Bluetooth. How do you get it in bluetooth mode?
 
Does it connect with the bafang go+ app. I purchased it and it doesn't connect to Bluetooth. How do you get it in bluetooth mode?

The DPC245v3 connects to GO+ app. I used it to tune my motor.
The DZ41 does not. It does not have bluetooth.
 
The DPC245v3 connects to GO+ app. I used it to tune my motor.
The DZ41 does not. It does not have bluetooth.
They sent me the dpc245v2 and doesn't connect. Do you have a link for the dpc245v3? Sorry miss understood your prior post and ordered the dz41.
 
They sent me the dpc245v2 and doesn't connect. Do you have a link for the dpc245v3? Sorry miss understood your prior post and ordered the dz41.
From here :

 
Is anyone else having motor connection issues?, I've had cables rattle loose like 5 or 6 times now... having to take the motor out everytime is a massive pain. I ride pretty rough terrain and after 1 good ride it's usually rattled loose again I would assume that most manufacturers use clip in connections. I've made a device with cable ties to keep the display and speed sensor cables in place but I can't figure a solution for the battery to motor connection. Anyone have any ideas?
 
Is anyone else having motor connection issues?, I've had cables rattle loose like 5 or 6 times now... having to take the motor out everytime is a massive pain. I ride pretty rough terrain and after 1 good ride it's usually rattled loose again I would assume that most manufacturers use clip in connections. I've made a device with cable ties to keep the display and speed sensor cables in place but I can't figure a solution for the battery to motor connection. Anyone have any ideas?
Maybe u can try hot silicone glue as its easy to clean up for replacement or maintenance

20231010_095009.jpg
 
Is anyone else having motor connection issues?, I've had cables rattle loose like 5 or 6 times now... having to take the motor out everytime is a massive pain. I ride pretty rough terrain and after 1 good ride it's usually rattled loose again I would assume that most manufacturers use clip in connections. I've made a device with cable ties to keep the display and speed sensor cables in place but I can't figure a solution for the battery to motor connection. Anyone have any ideas?
I also ride on rough, rocky and rooty terrain but I’ve not had any connection issues. Is there slack near the motor allowing enough space for the cable to be moved around during reassembly. If it’s tight to begin with it may be the cause of some movement. Is the computer shutting off? Or is the connection coming all the way out?
 
I also ride on rough, rocky and rooty terrain but I’ve not had any connection issues. Is there slack near the motor allowing enough space for the cable to be moved around during reassembly. If it’s tight to begin with it may be the cause of some movement. Is the computer shutting off? Or is the connection coming all the way out?
The connections mostly, after the first time I made sure there was plenty of slack either side. Then it happened again and I used cable ties to secure those plugs. I went riding today and this time it was the yellow battery connection so I've used a rubber band to keep tension on it. It's a pretty renegade solution but I just did a 30km ride and it seems to be solid. I thought about using some type silicone glue but I think it's a last resort. Hopefully this works.
 
Is there a difference between ISIS cranks? I have seen here on the different M820 threads that people have trouble finding cranks. Still you can find lots of ISIS cranks in any bike store.
I have no idea bro, i am still waiting for cef50 frameset which only available after early nov n i am getting the carbon crank for sure.
 
Is there a difference between ISIS cranks? I have seen here on the different M820 threads that people have trouble finding cranks. Still you can find lots of ISIS cranks in any bike store.
yes several ISIS crank available for BOSCH or others. But with different offset,. It's seem that if we want to keep the original offset of the M820, you need specific crankarms (in ISIS connection).
 
I use these ISIS interface cranks.
Screenshot_20231010-073342.png


Screenshot_20231010-073324.png
The offset is "standard", but I'm sure there is space for a more narrow, Q-factor offset.
PXL_20231010_143420578.jpg
 
I am now using the FSA

Full Speed Ahead CK-220 Bosch Gen 4 Ebike Crank Arm Set - 155mm, ISIS, Black​

They fit perfectly and I could get them in 155. I really like the Miranda but no 155 currently available.
1696961186116.png
 
I am now using the FSA

Full Speed Ahead CK-220 Bosch Gen 4 Ebike Crank Arm Set - 155mm, ISIS, Black​

They fit perfectly and I could get them in 155. I really like the Miranda but no 155 currently available.
View attachment 126499
Nice. How much?

The 155 mm crank length really seems to help minimize pedal strikes. I run a generous sag in my rear travel and would consider 150s, but with the exception that when I'm in eco-mode with a spent battery...less leverage to crank efficiently to get home. So, the 155s seem to be the happy medium.💪

Plus, save some grams with shorter cranks and even shorter dropper length needed as well. I run a 150 mm dropper now. On my analogs, I ran a 175mm dropper/170 crank arms.

Shorter, less metal = 👇g.
Slightly cheaper dropper too!💸

👊
 
Nice. How much?

The 155 mm crank length really seems to help minimize pedal strikes. I run a generous sag in my rear travel and would consider 150s, but with the exception that when I'm in eco-mode with a spent battery...less leverage to crank efficiently to get home. So, the 155s seem to be the happy medium.💪

Plus, save some grams with shorter cranks and even shorter dropper length needed as well. I run a 150 mm dropper now. On my analogs, I ran a 175mm dropper/170 crank arms.

Shorter, less metal = 👇g.
Slightly cheaper dropper too!💸

👊
I’m 1.85m (6 feet), I’m afraid 155 would be too small! I’m using the bafang right now but I consider changing, I will see what will be the price for the carbon ones we see above!
Regarding the dropper, I’m using a 170mm right now and consider upgrading to 200mm 😂
 
Keep reading
    Browse all

    Similar Threads

    Community Stats

    Since 2018
    669K
    Messages
    40,842
    Members
    Join 30,000+ Riders, it's free!
    Back
    Top