Bafang m510

Hello guys.

Got back repaired FC1.0 from Poland. They have put new controller with fw v 7.2 (36V) and looks like they have changed again flashing protocol (3rd bootloader version in a year). Unbelievable, Bafang is crazy. And funny is that Besst Pro is writing me M510 is not aproved (even for FC2.0) - ridiculous when Besst is not "approved" for their latest motors!
Is Bafang trying to transition away from Besst towards Go+? Or “does the left hand no know what the right hand is doing”?
 
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There is one cheap, small and light (590g without AC cord), with display and looks good:

There is also one plastic 5A which is even 100g lighter. Have them both and it is charging ;)
Powerful charger, but the fan noise is annoying. 😆 I always prefer a 3A charger without a fan.
 
I´m by no means expert in wireless communications, but it seems odd to me that bluetooth v5.0 is the reason there´s no connection between DCP245 v2 and the Go+ app. Does BT v5.1 actually possess a set of features required for this, that v5.0 lacks? I´m curious as to the feasibility of enabling DCP245 v2 to connect to Go+ via a firmware upgrade.
 
I´m by no means expert in wireless communications, but it seems odd to me that bluetooth v5.0 is the reason there´s no connection between DCP245 v2 and the Go+ app. Does BT v5.1 actually possess a set of features required for this, that v5.0 lacks? I´m curious as to the feasibility of enabling DCP245 v2 to connect to Go+ via a firmware upgrade.
It is a bit strange. Maybe they felt 5.1 gave better bandwidth or consistency ? It's a shame as the 2.0 connects to go+, it jutlat says it's not supported when you try and use it. Don't forget that GO has firmware update pages now. It would be nice if the go team added all the go+ features....
 
It is a bit strange. Maybe they felt 5.1 gave better bandwidth or consistency ? It's a shame as the 2.0 connects to go+, it jutlat says it's not supported when you try and use it. Don't forget that GO has firmware update pages now. It would be nice if the go team added all the go+ features....
Well, the only reason I´d want to connect to GO+ is because of the parameter setting that are absent in the GO app. If the GO app did what all other vendors are offering in their respective apps, I could not care less about GO+. Bafang is so behind the curve on this front... It´s a shame, because so far I´m loving the hardware
 
Agreed - hareware seems quite good. i did at 16 miler yesterday in the Colorado Rockies. I mostly do the uphills in Eco mode because I am also looking to get a good workout- once tired I’ll go to Trail mode. The M510 is very strong - if I have a nice pedaling cadence (85+) its very smooth and very quiet. My frame is a Light Carbon LCES004 enduro with mullet wheels. 63 degree HTA just eats up the chunk and downhill sections. Too be honest, i am stunned at how well the bike performs given its a total custom DIY project.
 
Is this measurement correct? The battery is 48V fully charged.
20230913_134742.jpg
 
View attachment 124785
You mean that I connect these two pins together to bypass the power button?
Yes, or as I sugested, connect their counterpart terminals at the battery, which seemed easier to me as they are flat (the ones on the mount protrude), and because I didn't have to take the battery mount off of the frame, which you already did
 
Yes, or as I sugested, connect their counterpart terminals at the battery, which seemed easier to me as they are flat (the ones on the mount protrude), and because I didn't have to take the battery mount off of the frame, which you already did
Isn't it better to remove the battery and make an internal bridge?
 
I do remove the battery, but I don't modify any of its internals, neither modify the wiring of the mount. Here's a picture the I hope clarifies:
1000032261.jpg

I will eventually commit to a permanent modification, but for now this works just fine
 
I do remove the battery, but I don't modify any of its internals, neither modify the wiring of the mount. Here's a picture the I hope clarifies:
View attachment 124792
I will eventually commit to a permanent modification, but for now this works just fine
Thanks for the clarification in the Photo.
The problem is not in the power button. I checked and it works fine.
The reason for the problem is that these two Pins do not make an internal connection.
Screenshot_20230913_163513_Gallery.jpg

I'm thinking about buying a new battery bracket, but I don't know if it will cause the same problem in the future.
Do a bridge inside the battery may be the best solution in the long term.
Any more suggestions?
 
Just to be clear, have you bridged those terminals and simultaneously measure voltage on the power terminals?
Yes, the battery gave the expected voltage about 54V after bridging.
The problem is the bad battery bracket.
I fixed it and now everything works, even the power button works.
I didn't expect this to be my first major problem with Dengfu build. I had to disassemble the motor and a lot of parts to fix the problem.
Thank you and everyone who helped me too.
 
I do remove the battery, but I don't modify any of its internals, neither modify the wiring of the mount. Here's a picture the I hope clarifies:
View attachment 124792
I will eventually commit to a permanent modification, but for now this works just fine
Lol, this is real electrician fix. ;)
 
Guys, did you know there is also FC1.1 controller version?

1694706348630.png
 
My last name is Mc Giver...
Indeed, but you made me a smile, what people can come up with. ;))
Open battery (4 screws on connector side). Locate 2 red cables going to that golden pins, cut them and short.

Your solution wont be working for long and on bumps you can have shut downs.
 
Indeed, but you made me a smile, what people can come up with. ;))
Open battery (4 screws on connector side). Locate 2 red cables going to that golden pins, cut them and short.

Your solution wont be working for long and on bumps you can have shut downs.
Yeah, I know I'll eventually will have to go bridge the actual wires. However you would be surprised by how much this solution holds up. I've cruised rockgardens and mid sized jumps an not a problem. The tape only holds the jumper in place until the spring terminals of the holder mechanically press it
 
Not mega interesting, but finally got around to doing a boring "Range" type test on the Vitus E-Mythique.

Riding in "E" (lowest). Vee on the back, Wild on the front (pretty similar rolling resistance).

Relatively flat as I wasn't just trying to see how many meters it would climb. Used GPS to track distance and height gained.

80% Remaining. 25km's 400m

70% Remaining. 37km's 550m

60% Remaining 49km's 720m

50% Remaining 62km's 920m

46% Remaining 66km's 1026m (went steeper for the last bit due to boredom).

"E" is the lowest power option. It was still pushing 320w a few times when I went a bit harder on some climbs. That's the same as a Levo SL 1.1 in Turbo. I think the Bosch in "Eco" maxes at about 120w, so for epic crazy rides, you'd need to turn down the assistance. Or just don't do epic crazy rides .. just go a bit faster and enjoy yourself :)

It certainly still gives plenty of support when you need it in E, even on steeper climbs.
 
Not mega interesting, but finally got around to doing a boring "Range" type test on the Vitus E-Mythique.

Riding in "E" (lowest). Vee on the back, Wild on the front (pretty similar rolling resistance).

Relatively flat as I wasn't just trying to see how many meters it would climb. Used GPS to track distance and height gained.

80% Remaining. 25km's 400m

70% Remaining. 37km's 550m

60% Remaining 49km's 720m

50% Remaining 62km's 920m

46% Remaining 66km's 1026m (went steeper for the last bit due to boredom).

"E" is the lowest power option. It was still pushing 320w a few times when I went a bit harder on some climbs. That's the same as a Levo SL 1.1 in Turbo. I think the Bosch in "Eco" maxes at about 120w, so for epic crazy rides, you'd need to turn down the assistance. Or just don't do epic crazy rides .. just go a bit faster and enjoy yourself :)

It certainly still gives plenty of support when you need it in E, even on steeper climbs.
320 w in E at max crank arms torque ? it's too high for me. with how many crank RPM ?
 
320 w in E at max crank arms torque ? it's too high for me. with how many crank RPM ?
I can only see cadence or watts .. not both .. It is high ! Probably too high for the base level and won't help with range, you do have to push quite hard to get that though, most of the time it was between 100 and 200.
 
This should explain why. I suppose u have FC2.0 so Support level is now in a game.

And default is 50% - 350W max at PAS1 (aka E)

Screenshot_2023-09-25-19-47-48-13_40deb401b9ffe8e1df2f1cc5ba480b12.jpg
 
This should explain why. I suppose u have FC2.0 so Support level is now in a game.
I did note in a thread somewhere all the peaks I saw in each level, can't remember which thread it was in now though.... or what the peaks were :)

It's the M510 FC2.0 - but remember it's the Vitus firmware so the settings are all different. I hope when I get Go+ I can see what all the settings are.
 
Yes, saw somewhere Vitus settings, pas1 set to 55%
 
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I think a few are running 52 volt batteries, can you confirm the top 58.4volts is still not triggering an error code.

Thanks.
 
I did note in a thread somewhere all the peaks I saw in each level, can't remember which thread it was in now though.... or what the peaks were :)

It's the M510 FC2.0 - but remember it's the Vitus firmware so the settings are all different. I hope when I get Go+ I can see what all the settings are.

Zimmer, could u check on Vitus, when starts power limitation?
 
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