Not been on my Cube, but ha e visited a few times in the past and love it. Wish it was bit closer to home.
Rim Dinger and Poppity Ping were my favourite trails.
Let's see your cubes
- Thread starter Welshman
- Start date
Rim Dinger and Poppity Ping were my favourite trails.
Clean
Active member
That’s annoying and surprising, in equal measure ! I have the low end Newmans on my ‘22 SL and they are great. Tubeless since new, never lost any air, roll forever and generally working exactly as they should.
Looks great, I used Slik for my DJ and enduro bike. Have yet to change any decals on my cube.
Thanks, first time using them and I am impressed.
Here’s my 2023 Reaction Hybrid Race with the 625wh battery. I’ve upgraded the tyres to Maxxis DHF 2.5 up front and Rekon 2.4 rear, both 3CT, tubeless as well. OneUp dropper post, WTB Volt saddle and OneUp pedals (don’t like the color anymore, switching them up soon). Chromag format grips. Had a blast with it so far (800km down)
I had my battery charging while the bike was in the stand today, went to unplug the chord and the socket pulled out of the flange. Pooped it back in, no problem. Found that if there was any kind of weight or side load on the socket when unplugging, the socket would pop out with the chord. I removed the flange and added a small zip tie around the plug to put more pressure on the 4 prongs holding it in. I contacted the bike shop about it and am waiting to get a response from cube but I honestly think my zip tie will resolve the issue unless they come up with a newer solution than what’s installed.
Clean
Active member
It’s a well known, well documented design flaw. Lots about it on this forum.
I don’t believe there is a reliable fix beyond holding it in place with one hand whilst removing the plug with the other.
Very poor from Cube.
I don’t believe there is a reliable fix beyond holding it in place with one hand whilst removing the plug with the other.
Very poor from Cube.
Thanks for the info. First time I had ran into it.
My shop did the zip-fix before delivering the bike to me.
In addition there was a fix on a screw of the battery hold that may be loose or get loose or not being correctly adjusted to hold the battery without rattle. You may want to check on this as well.
In addition there was a fix on a screw of the battery hold that may be loose or get loose or not being correctly adjusted to hold the battery without rattle. You may want to check on this as well.
I ran into the loose battery holder on my 3rd ride, pulled the locking mechanism out and tightened it up, been good since.
Session’d Dirty thirty until I got it clean
youtube.com
Happy I finally cleared this jump line clean. It’s short but the jumps are big and the Cube handles it nicely.
golfatha
Active member
coming this week Hope Gravity stem,Hope Tech 4 E4 black & orange brakes,Hope orange 203mm floating rotors,Hope Blue 165mm cranks,Hope orange seat clamp,Hope orange jockey wheels. Then coming within next couple of months Hope Fortus wheels with orange decals and orange Hope pro 5 hubs. Current mods are Hope orange 36T chainring,Burgtec penthouse 5 pedals and Renthal fat bar light 40mm rise bars and a KMC gold titanium nitride chain. And a Bosch smart phone grip in place of kiox 300 so using I phone 12 as display and map plotting with Komoot, front proguard direct bolt onto Fox forks mudhugger and a Cube stereo hybrid 160 specific sicomtb rear hugger to protect rear pivots. Oh and not forgetting my Kashima water bottle.
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Razvan_12
Member
Cube Stereo HPC 140SL 750Wh battery.
Razvan_12
Member
Do you have a creak on the head seat cable routing ? If yes, how could I remove it ?
And, the battery cover is a little bit noisy. What can I do ?
And, the battery cover is a little bit noisy. What can I do ?
I had a loose battery cover and adjusted the top screw to make it a little bit of a tighter fit, also had the battery tray coke loose in the frame, very common. Rebid the battery lock and tightened the bolt up. I do have some kind of cream when seated and pedaling but have not figured out where it’s coming from.
Clean
Active member
Hi mate,
I have posted on here, somewhere, about what I did to fix creaky headset (changed bottom bearing, left top). Have a search on my messages.
Matt van
Member
Still std tyres and seat tubeless now and better seat. #jelousofthetanwalltyresguys
Hattori-Hanzo
Well-known member
I'd removed the stock carbon bars early into ownership of the bike for some higher rise alloy bars.
Because I like to tinker I refitted the carbon bars and went for a ride to feel the differences and see which set up I prefer.
Straight away I could feel the carbon bars gave more feed back from the front wheel but for me not in a good way.
I could feel every bump, rock, stone, twig, and it soon became exhausting on my wrists. I can only assume the Newman bars are very stiff and have next to no dampening.
On steep techy descents it made the front end feel very twitchy.
One of the main differences I wanted to see was on climbs, which was marginally better with the carbon bars as I didn't have to move my weight so far forward than with the 50mm rise spank bars.
For me the spank 50mm rise bars are a huge improvement for descending and general riding comfort. The more upright position on descents gave me more confidence and the vibration dampening, while giving less feedback I felt I had better control and was easier on my wrists.
I do have some 38mm rise nuke proof alloy bars which I'm going to try next, they could be the sweet spot between descents and climbs.
I'm also interested in trying the vibrocore version of the spank bars.
But I need to settle on a rise height first.
Enjoyed a nice 12 mile ride this morning with a few slick spots along the way to keep me on my toes. Slipped off a short skinny bridge and bent my rear rotor real bad. Luckily I had my multi tool and stuck the rotor between a couple allens to grab the rotor and straighten it enough to finish the last 4 miles. First time bending a rotor like that and it bent about 79 degrees. New one on the way.
rotary
Member
How are you getting on with the jacked up front end? looks nice and slack with the 29" up front. Any concerns regarding head tube integrity? I was thinking of raising my stereo 140 to 170mm fork.
It rides well in the DH and fast trails but you can tell it’s not as good at climbing the steep stuff but it still gets the job done and after all it’s an e bike so it’s still light years better than climbing my analog bike. I really want an angle set for up front to drop the front of the bike but maintain the travel. I still have had no luck finding one with internal cable routing.Bike is now at 64 degrees up front and I have bottomed the front end numerous times without issue.
This is my XS hybrid - now for sale, I was riding this with Cane Creek Helm Coil more than this Marz 36 coil conversion. Bike has been great, but I really don't like the limitations of 140 rear stroke - no XS available on any longer. I've been so happy with the Bosch Gen 4, as an exercise I can easily pedal back home from work without any assistance and eMtb is something so lovely whenever I choose to go off-road (quite often 
).
).
Wombat Breath
Member
Stereo Hybrid 160 setup for bikepacking (normally tent/sbag go on rear rack when needed)
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