Rail (750Wh) It’s a great bike, but ultimately it’s flawed in one critical aspect

[Dave_B]

@VWsurfbum buy Rob's Rail

 

[emtbPhil]

I read this so often and a lot of the YouTube guys talk about how horrid the Bosch rattle is. But I’m on my 2nd Bosch gen4 bike and can’t say I’ve ever noticed one. Certainly doesn’t bother me.

The tyre noise is the thing I notice most. Weird how it seems worse on some bikes than others

 

[Planemo]

Seems like the guys fix rattling for Shimano by adding some rubber boot to a crank, wondering if we can do something similar?

I fixed the Ep8 motor rattle

When I added xt cranks to my rise i left on the e13 chain ring and rubber boot/ring. The rubber ring touches the inside of the crank and creates slight friction if you backpedal. Without the ring (or with e13 cranks) when you go over rough ground there is a small amount of play as the crank...

www.emtbforums.com

Very interesting solution! I cant see any drawbacks except a bit more resistance when back-peddling which I'm sure wouldn't be a problem for the majority. If mine was annoying I would try sorting something similar out myself, maybe I will if I get bored

 

[Mikerb]

In thinking a bout all of the things that could cause agitation of the chainwheel ( pedal slap) I wonder if there are other factors that contribute in addition to the design of the rear triangle and relative spring rate of the shock.

e.g. Rebound setting

27.5 v 29 rear wheel ( 27.5 potentially more disturbed on rocky ground than 29er) on the other hand my E 180 RS is 27.5 front and back and does not rattle.

Rear tyre tread pattern, width and inflated pressure (a more aggressive tread pattern/ higher pressure?)

Clutch control on rear mech and gear selection for downhill (chain slap)

bike weight balance and therefore rider position as it impacts on rear suspension settings/spring rate/rebound

I have no idea whether any of the above does or does not have any significant impact but possibly worth thinking a bout if the motor rattle is an issue for you.

 

[Dave_B]

I’m going down to a 525 spring. From what has been commented, 571 is too stiff for my weight of 85kg.

I’ll update following my next ride.

 

[Wilbur]

Seems like the guys fix rattling for Shimano by adding some rubber boot to a crank, wondering if we can do something similar?

I fixed the Ep8 motor rattle

When I added xt cranks to my rise i left on the e13 chain ring and rubber boot/ring. The rubber ring touches the inside of the crank and creates slight friction if you backpedal. Without the ring (or with e13 cranks) when you go over rough ground there is a small amount of play as the crank...

www.emtbforums.com

I like that idea; it's the best suggestion so far - I'm going to make a damper ring and test it.

 

[irie]

Perhaps carbon bikes are transmitting/magnifying sound whereas alloy bikes are doing the opposite? Just a random thought, so shoot me down ...

 

[Doomanic]

I’m going down to a 525 spring. From what has been commented, 571 is too stiff for my weight of 85kg.

I’ll update following my next ride.

You really need to measure the sag but it'll take two people to do it properly.

 

[irie]

You really need to measure the sag but it'll take two people to do it properly.

I measured my TTX22m.2 sag alone, why does it take two people?

 

[Dave_B]

Yeah, just measure the distance the rubber stopper goes down the shaft.

 

[Mikerb]

Yeah, just measure the distance the rubber stopper goes down the shaft.

cue.........@Zimmerframe

 

[Dave_B]

It’s actually what it says in the Ohlins manual.

Document | Öhlins

Document. Öhlins Racing has been an integrated part of the motorsport industry as well as the motorcycle and automotive industry for 40 years.

www.ohlins.com

 

[Doomanic]

I measured my TTX22m.2 sag alone, why does it take two people?

Its possible to do it on your own, but it''ll be more accurate and easier if you have a helper monkey.

 

[irie]

Its possible to do it on your own, but it''ll be more accurate and easier if you have a helper monkey.

Yeah, just measure the distance the rubber stopper goes down the shaft.

This ^^^ using calipers

 

[Doomanic]

I’m not saying you can’t do it, I’m just saying it’ll be easier with an assistant. To measure it yourself you have to dismount which risks moving the grommet.

Let’s face it, we’re ebikers, we live for the easy option…

 

[Mikerb]

So here is how you do it!! Weigh yourself with riding kit on. Weigh you wife/girlfriend/partner. Now load one or more backpacks with the difference in weight and strap to your wife/girlfriend/partner and get her to sit on the bike or stand on the pedals ( the latter being the better position if that is mostly how you ride!).

The above methodology of course fails if you wife/girlfriend/partner is heavier than you

 

[Wilbur]

Made a rubber damper in the same vein as the Shimano/Orbea one. Provides enough friction to allow back-pedal chain movement (but it still has some slip).
Initial testing shows the rattle is still present, but more testing is required to see if it's reduced to any significant degree...

 

[Yoak]

If you hear the rattle you are not going fast enough

 

[Pickle1970]

This ^^

 

[rafaellop]

The bad, and the thing that I don’t think I’ll ever get used to, the motor rattle. Sounds like a bag of bolts. The battery no longer rattles, but the bike still sounds cheap when riding over rough trails. I was aware of this trait in the motor when I bought the bike, but I just find it very off putting and it detracts from the ride.

There's a cure. Use fullface helmet and eventually go faster. Guaranteed no disturbing sound will be heard.

 

[Dave_B]

Made a rubber damper in the same vein as the Shimano/Orbea one. Provides enough friction to allow back-pedal chain movement (but it still has some slip).
Initial testing shows the rattle is still present, but more testing is required to see if it's reduced to any significant degree...
View attachment 104104

I haven’t read the Shimano thread, what is the gromet supposed to do?

 

[Wilbur]

I haven’t read the Shimano thread, what is the gromet supposed to do?

Dampen the movement between the secondary motor gears and the crank gears when coasting

 

[BobMtnBkr]

Sold my Rail 9.8 XT and bought a Fuel EX-e 9.8 XT. The silence is blissful.

 

[Dave_B]

Lol. I was going to get an EXe 9.8 but cancelled and get the Rail !

 

[jgusta]

It’s fair to say I’ve had a few issues with my bike, all electrical related, but they do appear to be fixed now.

Since buying it I’ve added a coil shock, upgraded the Zeb with the new debonair+ spring, mulleted (high chip) and 155mm cranks.

I have also added the battery anti rattle bracket.

View attachment 103903

The bike is now a lot quieter than when I bought it.

Today was my first really long ride on rough rocky trails. I went to Afan and did about 29 miles, 3000ft of climbing, all in either eMTB or Tour+ and had 25% battery remaining.

The good things…

The bike rides extremely well, really happy with how it handles on both up and down and it supremely capable.

It climbs like a goat, eMTB mode is simply amazing and definitely the best motor I’ve ridden (previous has been Shimano and the latest Brose).

The battery performance is equally as good, I have zero range anxiety with this bike.

It rides great as a mullet. Prefer it to full 29r. The flip chip in high and the 155mm
Cranks works really well with minimal pedal strikes (and the ones I did have were mainly my fault).

The bad, and the thing that I don’t think I’ll ever get used to, the motor rattle. Sounds like a bag of bolts. The battery no longer rattles, but the bike still sounds cheap when riding over rough trails. I was aware of this trait in the motor when I bought the bike, but I just find it very off putting and it detracts from the ride.

Yep, just got back on my Rail after +8 weeks without and new drive unit and all new wiring and yes, the bike still clanks about at the motor/BB area, especially when comparing to my Fuel EXe. Is too bad, cause the Rail really is a fun bike to ride. Clank factor only thing detracting as you said.

 

[jgusta]

I’m going down to a 525 spring. From what has been commented, 571 is too stiff for my weight of 85kg.

I’ll update following my next ride.

I am 200-205 lbs ride weight and 525lb Pro-Rate spring seems perfect on it for me. Started with 550/675 progressive spring that was a bit too stiff. Regardless, think progressive rate springs the way to go on Rail. I used a Sprindrex coil 500-550 for awhile that was nice until I realized I was setting at 525 for just about all the rides and leaving it there since felt the best

 

[BobMtnBkr]

Lol. I was going to get an EXe 9.8 but cancelled and get the Rail !

I remember...

The Rail is a good bike, but a little too much for our local tight singletrack woods trails. My wife kept her Rail.

But I just couldn't stand the Rail's battery knocking.

Digging the virtually silent Fuel.

 

[Wilbur]

I remember...

The Rail is a good bike, but a little too much for our local tight singletrack woods trails. My wife kept her Rail.

But I just couldn't stand the Rail's battery knocking.

Digging the virtually silent Fuel.

Battery knocking? Was the RIB not adjusted properly?

 

[irie]

It’s a great bike, but ultimately it’s flawed in one critical aspect​

Neither my Rail 5 nor my wife's Rail 5 (both 500Wh/2022) make any noise other from slight motor whine. Can not fault them. I freely admit I have high frequency hearing loss but wife has perfect hearing (of course ).

 

[Wilbur]

Neither my Rail 5 nor my wife's Rail 5 (both 500Wh/2022) make any noise other from slight motor whine. Can not fault them. I freely admit I have high frequency hearing loss but wife has perfect hearing (of course ).

Hmm. Either they fixed it in 2022, or you don’t ride bumpy trails while coasting….