My settings are as follows:
Eco:
max = 108 W
assist = 100%
Mid:
max = 198 W
assist = 128%
High:
max = 300 W
assist = 156%
Do you have any suggestions?
Fuel EXe Trek Fuel EXe Megathread!
- Thread starter Rob Rides EMTB
- Start date
Eco:
max = 108 W
assist = 100%
Mid:
max = 198 W
assist = 128%
High:
max = 300 W
assist = 156%
Do you have any suggestions?
I don’t have nothing to protect it from rubbing. I don’t really care either. I was going to Ride Wrap this bike, but decided it is a mountain bike, if It isn’t scratched, I probably am not using it right. I appreciate the heads up.
Last edited:
I like to set max assist to 300W at all three levels. That way the fractional assistance continues as I put in more effort at any level. Often this can reduce the need to switch to a higher assist level. Also, you don’t feel a “drop” in support as you exceed a preset limit. It’s not a good way to maximize range, but I’m generally just trying to maximize fun.
You might give it a try to see how you like it.
DugT
Active member
This is about my Trek Central phone app Motor Tuning settings. For Pedal Response, you can select within a range of Gradual to Quick for each Mode, Eco, Mid and High. I didn't notice much of a difference so I selected Quick for all three because I am impatient and why not. 
All three default modes had more assistance than I like so I turned down the Max Power and the Assist for all three and I like it better this way. As it was, I would rarely use the High mode but now I have three useful modes.
Here are my Trek Power and Assistance Levels
For comparison, here are the default levels.
This is my first ebike. Maybe I will prefer more aggressive settings if I get more power hungry.
All three default modes had more assistance than I like so I turned down the Max Power and the Assist for all three and I like it better this way. As it was, I would rarely use the High mode but now I have three useful modes.
Here are my Trek Power and Assistance Levels
| ECO | MID | HIGH | ||
| MAX Watts | 100 | 170 | 238 | |
| ASSIST | 60 | 84 | 118 |
For comparison, here are the default levels.
| MAX | 100 | 180 | 300 |
| ASSIST | 86 | 112 | 156 |
| % Assist increase | 30% | 39% |
Account Deleted
Active member
Interestingly enough, the wash I gave the bike right before the display stopped working was the first wash I actually used a cloth and soapy water in addition to the (gentle) hosing. Maybe pushing the button allowed water ingress?
DugT
Active member
Today I hosed mine off for the first time using a spray nozzle. It was easy to miss the display and the cable ports. It worked well.
prolix2
Member
Regarding TQ motor grind growl, mine was getting worse and worse and more easily reproducible from 50 miles to 70 miles, but I still had a hard time reproducing it at the local bike shop, and getting them to reproduce it before taking it in. I was fairly certain from other posts that it would need a motor change-out because I thought it was pretty mechanical issue, maybe the sprag gear, as somebody mentioned, not completely disengaging. Or maybe some production part out of tolerance. The shop said they did some software updates, and said something about finding that something, similar to the chain ring, but not the chainring , which was supposed to be torqued to 60, that they found was only torqued to 30. Apparently there are more than one service bulletin, that the shop first told me about. After their service they were not able to reproduce the problem, just now in a parking lot outside the shop I was not able to reproduce it either so maybe it's fixed. I don't know, maybe they don't know either, whether it was the software stuff they did or the retorquing that has worked. I guess it's possible that the software does control the sprag gear or freewheeling mechanism engagement and disengagement ? The shop also said that Trek recommended that after 150 miles the motor would get quieter. My guess is that that is a confused statement, somebody's hearing the actual quiet sound of the motor and complaining about it and Trek says just to wait. I don't think that would be true of the kind of sound that I was getting. My type of sound can be found in two or three videos on YouTube searching for 'Trek TQmotor grind noise". I have a specialized turbo levo SL, a trek rail ,and also now this fuel EXE, and the EXE is wonderful ! ( assuming it's back to its silent condition). ( there is something that looks to me like a metal sprag gear in the exploded view of the motor)... im sorry , it's called sprag clutch. On the exploded view the smaller metallic gear on the far right looks to me like a sprag clutch component that might account for the rattling grinding sound if it's not disengaged.Sorry to hear of issues. I’ll notify TQ of these comments. Seems some are having issues (where are you based in terms of Geography?)
My demo is running superb in this setup
View attachment 98420
DugT
Active member
I suspect you set your MAX Wattage at 300W on all three levels, not Max Assist. For each mode (ECON, MID HIGH) you can set the Assist as a percentage of your wattage output and you can set the Max Wattage available to each mode. To be clear, the Assist setting is a percentage of your output, not a percentage of your MAX Wattage setting. What percentage assist did you set at each level? I think that can make a bigger difference than the MAX Wattage settings.
For example, say your ECON Mode MAX Watts is set to 300W and your assist is set to 50%. If your legs can output 200W into the pedals, the max assist you will get from the motor is 100W. If your Assist is set to 100%, then you could get 200W assist from the motor. That is my understanding of how it works but I could be wrong. Please feel free to correct me.
On my bikes High mode, set to 170W max and Assist set to 84%, it is almost always too easy to pedal. If the Assist was set to 200% and Max Watts to 300W, I would be going too fast with just a little pressure on the pedals. It would be more like riding a motorcycle.
Last edited:
Moe Ped
Well-known member
Finished my Build, pretty much same as my old SL
Fox 38 160mm
Fox x2 140mm
XO1 AXS
AXS dropper
ENVE M7
Fox 38 160mm
Fox x2 140mm
XO1 AXS
AXS dropper
ENVE M7
DugT
Active member
They tightened the Lockring from 30Nm, which was the old spec, to 50Nm, which is the new spec, and that probably solved the problem. It is that simple.
Last edited:
Oldhack79
Member
I am in Perth too and seriously considering this bike. Can I ask where you ride it? We do a fair bit of gravity riding and racing. Keen to hear how it handles places like: Goat Farm, Dwellingup, the more gravity stuff at Kalamunda etc etc. Wondering if the EXE is up to it? I have a Fox factory 38 I could throw at it with 160mm travel and would look at a coil rear and try to get maybe 150mm in the rear. Assuming it won’t create a warranty issue down the track.
Hitorogoshi
Active member
Mine has developed a ton of chainring creak and it does make it seem like the motor is grinding. Got it booked in next week to get torqued up
chade
Member
Yeah, mine has started to get very very creaky in the motor region 
is it really as simple as a re-torque of motor bolts?
is it really as simple as a re-torque of motor bolts?
Moe Ped
Well-known member
It’s fine the standard travel is ok for most of the trails in Perth, power wise it feels fine better than my SL but nowhere near a Full Ebike.
If you buy from an official Trek store you get a 30 day return period to try the bike, Trek Myaree ask for Connor he is the manager.
Hitorogoshi
Active member
not the motor bolts, the chainringYeah, mine has started to get very very creaky in the motor region
Oldhack79
Member
Hi @Rob Rides EMTB . Any chance you can share the rear shock spec from this build? Watching the video it is the same length eye to eye but with longer stroke?170mm Ohlins Fork, 150mm Ohlins Coil, DD DHR2
19.28 KG.
Rob Hancill on Instagram: "Trek Fuel EXe RR Edition…. 170mm @ohlinsmtb 38 m.2 and 150mm rear TTXM.2 - weight: 19.28 KG and 63.5 head angle - YES what a beast!! (Prob not supposed to run 170 Fork btw) @trekbikes @ohlinsmtb @tq_ebike"
18K likes, 146 comments - robridesemtb on September 24, 2022: "Trek Fuel EXe RR Edition…. 170mm @ohlinsmtb 38 m.2 and 150mm rear TTXM.2 - weight: 19.28 KG and 63.5 head angle - YES what a beast!! (Prob not supposed to run 170 Fork btw) @trekbikes @ohlinsmtb @tq_ebike".www.instagram.com
View attachment 97960
View attachment 97961
View attachment 97962
prolix2
Member
Yes, it was a lock ring. That’s the word they said. Thanks. Now I’m gonna have to look up what a lock ring is in that application
- Thread starter
- #499
More details on the enduro build!
www.emtbforums.com
Trek Fuel EXe RR, 170mm Enduro Edition
What happens when you run a 170mm fork on a Trek Fuel EXe? Let's find out!
www.emtbforums.com
DugT
Active member
Read post #287 in this thread. You might want to read the whole thread.
dannyb
New Member
Hey guys,
I just got an ExE 9.5 and immediately changed the fork to a Fox 36 Performance Elite with PUSH ACS3 coil conversion (off Pinkbike).
This bike is amazing! I have already taken trails that were too much for my 2019 Stumpjumper Comp Carbon. And the technical climbing is just superb. This thing is a beast. Easy to load on my roof rack too. Couldn't be happier with the purchase.
I just got an ExE 9.5 and immediately changed the fork to a Fox 36 Performance Elite with PUSH ACS3 coil conversion (off Pinkbike).
This bike is amazing! I have already taken trails that were too much for my 2019 Stumpjumper Comp Carbon. And the technical climbing is just superb. This thing is a beast. Easy to load on my roof rack too. Couldn't be happier with the purchase.
Did a ride at Fullerton loop here in SoCal. 65% left from full charge using mixed settings using stock presets.
12 years ago it takes me 2:30 hrs to finish on a regular bike because of my health issues. With the EXe it allows me to keep up with my friends and enjoy it instead of stressing my body. So far no issues, bike is smooth. Hopefully it stays that way.
12 years ago it takes me 2:30 hrs to finish on a regular bike because of my health issues. With the EXe it allows me to keep up with my friends and enjoy it instead of stressing my body. So far no issues, bike is smooth. Hopefully it stays that way.
prolix2
Member
Apologize for my mistaken message. I had just tried the bike out in the parking lot. Getting back on the trail today the grinders is bad as ever. A lot of back-and-forth with the between Trek and the local bike shop. Currently no hope of making it right.. Since it’s so difficult to reproduce I think I’m fine I was just being overly sensitive to something that it within the range of a normal Sound. Trek also tells a local bike shop that it takes 150 miles for the sensors to accomplish all their recalibrations. Are. I will try to attach a short video and see what you think if the sound is acceptable
prolix2
Member
Well, I can’t attach that video, but if you look on YouTube and search under “trek TQ motor grind noise “. The one by Richard Bagby is mine
Trek TQ motor grind rattle
youtube.com
Last edited by a moderator:
Swingset
Active member
That is pretty disconcerting.
DugT
Active member
I listened to the video and the grinding does sound annoying. Does it make the grinding noise when you are coasting too? I think I could hear the grinding when I could also hear the cassette spin.
It is odd that the noise is so conspicuous in the video but was quiet or unnoticeable at the shop. I added your noise video.
noise video
TheRed
Member
Trek have applied a 5% increase across the board, anything invoiced to the dealer before today should be at the lower price.
prolix2
Member
Thanks a lot for the video. The quieter sound on the video is the bass motor and cassette. The clattering sound is what I’m calling the grind sound. It occurs when paddling at a fairly high rate, but not yet reaching the speed of the coasting bike. I.e. if you were coasting downhill slightly, and coming to a slight rise, you might shift down a couple of gears, but when peddling without resistance at a fairly high cadence to catch up with the actual speed of the bike, especially when starting uphill, and just as, or just before, The crank meets some resistance of the slowing bike the grinding occurs. It goes away as you apply more torque to the motor and as the motor itself kicks in and starts working itself. In order to reproduce it continuously I need to have the slight uphill grade and applying very little torque and a fairly high cadence. It does occur reliably on the trail every time I’m starting an uphill climb with high cadence and before really applying torque. Therefore usually only lasts a second or two. But on our swoopy trails ir therefore occurs every 10 or 20 seconds
Similar Threads
-
-
-
-
-
Fuel EXe Fuel Exe 8XT - Rotor upgrade RT66 to RT86? UPDATE - New rotors ordered
- Started by DocUK
- Replies: 14