Reign E+ 2022

I had this issue, I also felt the ridecontrol ergo 3 was too far tilted away from my thumb making pressing the power up button slightly awkward. I ended up loosing the ridecontrol and tilting it a bit toward me. This mean I could then slide the brake lever clamp into the recess. See the attached images View attachment 81931View attachment 81932View attachment 81933

I prefer mine like this

D2B6F4C2-4CD7-40EF-B2A4-4D57964FBBC4.jpeg
 
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Looking at this pic, I've just realised my bike didn't come with the grips shaped to match the ridecontrol. I now feel cheated. I reckon I deserve at least a 1k refund from Giant to compensate for the emotional distress this has now caused.
I don’t know if the included are so good. Makes the controller less pronounced and harder to find with gloves.
 
bottoming out too easily, decided to add volume spacer in rear shock today. stock comes with 1 spacer, was given one in a package of small parts. confirmed on Fox website that stock is 1, 2 is max on this model. taking the shock out, not too difficult. taking the air can off, adding spacer, easy. getting it all back in the bike. oh boy. you're going to need a helper for sure, 6 hands would be preferable. lining up the bolt through the frame, link, spacer, shock, spacer, frame, link..... not a good time.

it's an amazing bike, i like it better with each ride. better weather will mean dryer trails, higher climbs, faster speeds and tweaks to my suspension set up for the evolving conditions. it's going to be an awesome year on this bike.
 
bottoming out too easily, decided to add volume spacer in rear shock today. stock comes with 1 spacer, was given one in a package of small parts. confirmed on Fox website that stock is 1, 2 is max on this model. taking the shock out, not too difficult. taking the air can off, adding spacer, easy. getting it all back in the bike. oh boy. you're going to need a helper for sure, 6 hands would be preferable. lining up the bolt through the frame, link, spacer, shock, spacer, frame, link..... not a good time.

it's an amazing bike, i like it better with each ride. better weather will mean dryer trails, higher climbs, faster speeds and tweaks to my suspension set up for the evolving conditions. it's going to be an awesome year on this bike.
I told the LBS to put in the 2nd one in before I picked it up because of my fat ass
 
bottoming out too easily, decided to add volume spacer in rear shock today. stock comes with 1 spacer, was given one in a package of small parts. confirmed on Fox website that stock is 1, 2 is max on this model. taking the shock out, not too difficult. taking the air can off, adding spacer, easy. getting it all back in the bike. oh boy. you're going to need a helper for sure, 6 hands would be preferable. lining up the bolt through the frame, link, spacer, shock, spacer, frame, link..... not a good time.

it's an amazing bike, i like it better with each ride. better weather will mean dryer trails, higher climbs, faster speeds and tweaks to my suspension set up for the evolving conditions. it's going to be an awesome year on this bike.
Always helps me when I put a small dab of grease on the spacers to help hold them in place whilst I put the bolt through
 
The black finish on the down tube on the E+ 2, is that a matt finish? It shouldn't annoy me but it does, managed to get a stone chip right at the top of the downtube. Was thinking of just trying to get a match and touch it up. Was reading that giant don't provide paint codes which is a pain.
 
The black finish on the down tube on the E+ 2, is that a matt finish? It shouldn't annoy me but it does, managed to get a stone chip right at the top of the downtube. Was thinking of just trying to get a match and touch it up. Was reading that giant don't provide paint codes which is a pain.

Yes it's really half metallic grey paint & half matt black finish.

Should be easy to fix, just find some matt black paint & try to dab the hole with something small.
 
Hey guys has anyone ever tested this theory?


😃

Smaller rotor in the front is BS. Equal size is correct. Smaller rotor in the rear is in fact a bad idea because heat dissipation is needed there too. Arguments from this article that smaller rotor in the front means better modulation is absolute nonsense. In DH people ride equal sized rotors for ages. And it works just fine. I would give a small exception to 220mm rotors. 200mm is plenty in my opinion. So 220m front and 200m back still makes sense because 200mm give a good heat management. 220mm would be better but 220/200 is not a bad combo. 220m is very nice in the front (especially of an ebike) because it give more power. So in summary. 200-3mm front, 200-3mm back good. 220mm front, 200-3mm also good - especially for heavy rider/bike. 220mm front, 220mm back good but probably unnecessary. Anything smaller than those numbers and we are talking XC :p.

PS Discolored back rotor is not a sign of a rotor being too small. It is in 99% of cases a sign of poor riding skills. Bigger rotor will not change anything if you are 1. breaking too much, 2. breaking too much with the rear.
 
I don’t know if the included are so good. Makes the controller less pronounced and harder to find with gloves.

The OE grips molded to perfectly match the controller is simply not working for most of the people as you can easily touch one button without knowing it while riding.

They're also too thin without any cushion in them....better trash them & replace with proper grips like the Deity Knuckleduster.
 
Smaller rotor
Smaller rotor in the front is BS. Equal size is correct. Smaller rotor in the rear is in fact a bad idea because heat dissipation is needed there too. Arguments from this article that smaller rotor in the front means better modulation is absolute nonsense. In DH people ride equal sized rotors for ages. And it works just fine. I would give a small exception to 220mm rotors. 200mm is plenty in my opinion. So 220m front and 200m back still makes sense because 200mm give a good heat management. 220mm would be better but 220/200 is not a bad combo. 220m is very nice in the front (especially of an ebike) because it give more power. So in summary. 200-3mm front, 200-3mm back good. 220mm front, 200-3mm also good - especially for heavy rider/bike. 220mm front, 220mm back good but probably unnecessary. Anything smaller than those numbers and we are talking XC :p.

PS Discolored back rotor is not a sign of a rotor being too small. It is in 99% of cases a sign of poor riding skills. Bigger rotor will not change anything if you are 1. breaking too much, 2. breaking too much with the rear.

Hey all you said is perfectly fine and correct😃✌love a good debate on bike things 😃👍Totally agree on the bare minimum front/rear 203mm for an mtb ebike(don't forget the thickness also I would say 1,9mm is the minimum).
Although there are different standpoints of viewing on this. Don't get me wrong don't want to argue just trying to have a good debate, I an a bit intrigued by such controversies that go against the flow. Not all riders(weekend warriors) are skilled enough and fit as DH riders...so I think there could be something on that theory 🤷‍♂️😃🧐
Mike Levy from Pinkbike thinks like that...I think he has a point also(loose ground)
_________________________
Bigger Isn't Always Better

Question: Pinkbike user Layman asked this question in the Bikes, Parts, and Gear forum: Why would anybody run anything other than the largest rotor? Other than a weight penalty, which is minimal, I can't see a disadvantage to going with a larger rotor. Am I missing something?

bigquotes.png

A larger diameter rotor will offer more power thanks to the added leverage that it provides, and it will also deal with heat better during long, hard descents like you'd do on a downhill bike, but outright power isn't always the only concern. Most people will cite weight as the reason for going with a smaller rotor, but I'd argue that using rotor size to tune how your brakes feel is the real reason to go down in size - a smaller rotor will offer a more controllable feel at the lever, which is especially important when riding in low-traction conditions. For example, in the summer I'll often use a fast rolling tire on the back of my bike and the trails can be a bit dusty and loose. My Shimano brakes have quite a bit of initial bite to them that can cause me to lock up my wheels unexpectedly when I'm pushing hard, but going from an 8'' rotor to a 6'' rotor gives me back a lot of that control. Yes, there isn't as much power on tap when using the smaller rotor, but the modulation that I get outweighs that loss in my mind. After all, almost everyone's brakes are more than powerful enough so long as you're using them as intended. That said, I'd prefer to run 8'' rotors anytime I'm in a bike park for the power and heat management. The one other thing to keep in mind is that some older forks with quick-release dropouts are not compatible with large rotors. - Mike Levy
________________________________


Although we are taking ebikes here...the principle is the same(just bigger and thicker rotors here)

✌Cheers 😃👍
 
Hey all you said is perfectly fine and correct😃✌love a good debate on bike things 😃👍Totally agree on the bare minimum front/rear 203mm for an mtb ebike(don't forget the thickness also I would say 1,9mm is the minimum).
Although there are different standpoints of viewing on this. Don't get me wrong don't want to argue just trying to have a good debate, I an a bit intrigued by such controversies that go against the flow. Not all riders(weekend warriors) are skilled enough and fit as DH riders...so I think there could be something on that theory 🤷‍♂️😃🧐
Mike Levy from Pinkbike thinks like that...I think he has a point also(loose ground)
_________________________
Bigger Isn't Always Better

Question: Pinkbike user Layman asked this question in the Bikes, Parts, and Gear forum: Why would anybody run anything other than the largest rotor? Other than a weight penalty, which is minimal, I can't see a disadvantage to going with a larger rotor. Am I missing something?

bigquotes.png

A larger diameter rotor will offer more power thanks to the added leverage that it provides, and it will also deal with heat better during long, hard descents like you'd do on a downhill bike, but outright power isn't always the only concern. Most people will cite weight as the reason for going with a smaller rotor, but I'd argue that using rotor size to tune how your brakes feel is the real reason to go down in size - a smaller rotor will offer a more controllable feel at the lever, which is especially important when riding in low-traction conditions. For example, in the summer I'll often use a fast rolling tire on the back of my bike and the trails can be a bit dusty and loose. My Shimano brakes have quite a bit of initial bite to them that can cause me to lock up my wheels unexpectedly when I'm pushing hard, but going from an 8'' rotor to a 6'' rotor gives me back a lot of that control. Yes, there isn't as much power on tap when using the smaller rotor, but the modulation that I get outweighs that loss in my mind. After all, almost everyone's brakes are more than powerful enough so long as you're using them as intended. That said, I'd prefer to run 8'' rotors anytime I'm in a bike park for the power and heat management. The one other thing to keep in mind is that some older forks with quick-release dropouts are not compatible with large rotors. - Mike Levy
________________________________


Although we are taking ebikes here...the principle is the same(just bigger and thicker rotors here)

✌Cheers 😃👍

Quick answer. Shimano. Shimano is absolute shite when it comes to modulation. End of answer.
 
Mine E+0 does the same sound when it decouples. If there is load on the pedals it went quiet . Also my Motor Motor became much more quiet after 500km regarding the wining noise. now it is very quiet. But this decoupling sound is a little bit annoying . Please keep us informed what your LBS says.

Hey did tests in other modes today, I does it in Auto mode also, but not that obvious, it's kinda quieter or it's the motor that is louder in auto that takes over the sound prime.
I did answer to another user here recently if you want to read it. ✌ I will also do another post of today's ride stats and follow on from previous ride.

Hey guys, any news on that whining sound...does it get better/worse? My E+2 does that a little on decoupling. Only tried small gears, very limited ride time due to winter here. Thanks for your input 👍
 
Quick answer. Shimano. Shimano is absolute shite when it comes to modulation. End of answer.
Yeah sorry I know...it's been a long day for me 🤷‍♂️🙃...To conclude, I guess it's a mix of(skills, braking equipment, weight, terrain and type of riding) that we as riders need to balance out to get the best out of our ride experiences 😃
 
Hey guys, any news on that whining sound...does it get better/worse? My E+2 does that a little on decoupling. Only tried small gears, very limited ride time due to winter here. Thanks for your input 👍
Hey only did 1 ride after that also. Didn't have time to go to the LBS. The sound is still there, mostly present when there is just barely slight pedal pressure and in the top gears. It is quiet when it's under real pedal pressure. My buddy has a very similar sound on the 2020 Reign E+0.
I read a post on the German forum, where a user said that his LBS said all the bikes have this, but there was also another user that said he tested 2 different bikes and one didn't have this sound. So the official answer to the first user mentioned from Giant was(attaching a screenshot)...they basically told him what he already knew. WTF...Well this is what I was afraid of when buying a Giant...because it's the largest bycicle manufacturer in the world...they don't really have a connection to the customer...and so they can afford an anwser like that 🤷‍♂️ but the price was the deciding factor...

Screenshot_20220214-231346_Chrome.jpg
 
Hey only did 1 ride after that also. Didn't have time to go to the LBS. The sound is still there, mostly present when there is just barely slight pedal pressure and in the top gears. It is quiet when it's under real pedal pressure. My buddy has a very similar sound on the 2020 Reign E+0.
I read a post on the German forum, where a user said that his LBS said all the bikes have this, but there was also another user that said he tested 2 different bikes and one didn't have this sound. So the official answer to the first user mentioned from Giant was(attaching a screenshot)...they basically told him what he already knew. WTF...Well this is what I was afraid of when buying a Giant...because it's the largest bycicle manufacturer in the world...they don't really have a connection to the customer...and so they can afford an anwser like that 🤷‍♂️ but the price was the deciding factor...

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To be honest the sound recorded by you is much more severe than the one that started the post on the german forum. So Giant replied there to a different kind of problem. Your motor sounds broken. The other guy's is probably fine.
 
To be honest the sound recorded by you is much more severe than the one that started the post on the german forum. So Giant replied there to a different kind of problem. Your motor sounds broken. The other guy's is probably fine.

Hey the sound in the german forum is the same(he uploaded 2 videos because the first was like 5 seconds short)...I filmed my video in vicinity of the motor and my phone has a pretty decent mic, he obviously has an action cam on the handlebars probably encased so the sound is probably also muffled...

This is how my motor sounds now after a few more km done...very similar as in this video from the first ride....taking in consideration the excellent mic on my phone...so now it's probably a bit more silent...
I can now still awaken the sound though, but only on flat ground at the biggest gears when having just slight pedal pressure...otherwise it's gone...

So your bike doesn't do this sound or?

 
Hey the sound in the german forum is the same(he uploaded 2 videos because the first was like 5 seconds short)...I filmed my video in vicinity of the motor and my phone has a pretty decent mic, he obviously has an action cam on the handlebars probably encased so the sound is probably also muffled...

This is how my motor sounds now after a few more km done...very similar as in this video from the first ride....taking in consideration the excellent mic on my phone...so now it's probably a bit more silent...
I can now still awaken the sound though, but only on flat ground at the biggest gears when having just slight pedal pressure...otherwise it's gone...

So your bike doesn't do this sound or?


I'll try to make a video this week with the sound of my motor.
 
For anybody interested in buying a range extender for Reign 2022 I started a thread to inform everyone that there in fact is an issue with the compatibility and Giant knows about it:

 
I was able to do a few more laps today, the whining sound of motor is reduced if I change the factory settings in eco and tour modes to maximum support (i.e. 100% eco - 150% tour). There is no sound when battery is off. I noticed also that there is a little “after push" once you stop pedalling (akin to Brose and Bosch motors but not quite as much). I did not have that post pedalling push nor whining sound on my 2020 Trance E+ PWX-2 motor.
There has to be a way to eliminate that sound. 🧐
 
I think some of you are panicking a little bit too much with that decoupling noise.

Unless you're pedaling at a crazy high cadence and suddenly stop pedalling it's not that noisy and it's not bothering.
 
You may be right… But the bike is brand new and the old one didn’t to that.
Also seems that whining noise varies much from one Reign E+ to another. When does it become a warranty issue, can anything be done to improve?
Cheers!
 
You may be right… But the bike is brand new and the old one didn’t to that.
Also seems that whining noise varies much from one Reign E+ to another. When does it become a warranty issue, can anything be done to improve?
Cheers!
My E+0 made different noises at different times during the first few weeks riding. It’s settled down now and all I hear now is fear when letting it off the leash downhill. Awsome.
 
You may be right… But the bike is brand new and the old one didn’t to that.
Also seems that whining noise varies much from one Reign E+ to another. When does it become a warranty issue, can anything be done to improve?
Cheers!
Dont make the mistake to compare the PWX2 with the PWX3. You can't do anything about it. Its a system with mechanical parts, manufactured and build by humans, so a bit of variation is nothing to worry about. If the system works well, whats the fuss about???
 
You may be right… But the bike is brand new and the old one didn’t to that.
Also seems that whining noise varies much from one Reign E+ to another. When does it become a warranty issue, can anything be done to improve?
Cheers!

I think pretty much every Reign E+ is making that noise, it would be plain stupid to start claiming a new motor for this specific ''issue'' just to have the new one do the same.

All the down time, stress & ETC caused by it...go ride the bike you'll forget about it rather quickly ;)
 
Hey the sound in the german forum is the same(he uploaded 2 videos because the first was like 5 seconds short)...I filmed my video in vicinity of the motor and my phone has a pretty decent mic, he obviously has an action cam on the handlebars probably encased so the sound is probably also muffled...

This is how my motor sounds now after a few more km done...very similar as in this video from the first ride....taking in consideration the excellent mic on my phone...so now it's probably a bit more silent...
I can now still awaken the sound though, but only on flat ground at the biggest gears when having just slight pedal pressure...otherwise it's gone...

So your bike doesn't do this sound or?


Me and my brother's 2022 Reign E make the same sound as in this video. There should be no problem here. There was another video posted earlier where it did sound different though, and possibly a problem.
 
Hey guys I guess we are all different...and some of us out there just like a silent bike...no cables rattling, no brakes crying and in the era of ebikes just the buzz off an electric motor...it is what one would expect at this price point...imo...

The buzz of the PWX3 is nice I like it...it is getting quieter with every ride.
I read/heard in an article/review that was saying the Yamaha/Syncdrive motors have a ridein interval of about 200 - 300km until they perfectly settle in.

The decoupling sound/noise if we can call it like that honestly is not doing any damage...so I totally agree with the statement from above...to embrace it and ride...because all hassle the waiting etc...and a possibility that some inexperienced guy servicing your new PWX3 is to much to risk especially if in general the motor works well.

But there is always a but...It is just really fu.... annoying when you like a silent bike 🤯😬

I do admit that it is growing a bit on me...I even think it did quiet down a bit and that it's not so loud when the motor is warm.

From all I read/heard I think that this the nature of the beast and there not much it can be done about it. At first I thought it was the frame resonating so I tried to isolate the frame with foam around the battery...it didn't do much good.

Now I think it's actually the motor housing itself that resonates...I am letting it go for now and will ride the bike. Although I will let my LBS know about it and make them do a remark in my service booklet. If it gets any worse then the bike is going back in under warranty...

I will post a few more motor sound videos for anyone that thinks they need it, in different gears/flat terrain, uphill and in different modes(2, 3, 4, A) from today...they're uploading at the moment...

Cheers
 
OK guys new to the forum thing but thought as a lot of people after information and not a lot out there I'd share my thoughts on this bike.
I ordered a 1 but they were oversold and I was left with taking a reign 2 or nothing.
As I feel the spec is poor I did the following mods.
Fox factory coil in rear
Hope stem and carbon bars
Upgraded levers to rsc
Grips
200ml kslevo dropper.
Cush core front and rear.
Just did some park laps with an extension ride uphill over to another part of the hill so still getting to know it but can confirm the following.
It's heavy, but not cumbersome.
It's fkn fast in straight line and very plush.
It's not super agile being 29 front but doesn't push on corners like a 29 29 bike so good compromise being mullet.
Fork is mint and doesn't need attention.
Motor is very quiet and grunty.
Ran it on 1 and 2 most of the time and only full power when shuttling a jump line.
Walk mode is awesome and made hiking up steep loose area very easy.
All in all this has be wondering if I need downhill bike any longer as it's very capable.
Very pleased with the purchase and looking forward to a lot more riding!
Anyone wondering whether to buy I advise for big hitting ebike as it ate everything I usually ride in my commencal.
My 2 cents. Over and out.

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What exact model of fox shock did you put on it? I need to know what measurements it has, to look for it and what affects the geometry of the bike
 
Hey guys I guess we are all different...and some of us out there just like a silent bike...no cables rattling, no brakes crying and in the era of ebikes just the buzz off an electric motor...it is what one would expect at this price point...imo...

The buzz of the PWX3 is nice I like it...it is getting quieter with every ride.
I read/heard in an article/review that was saying the Yamaha/Syncdrive motors have a ridein interval of about 200 - 300km until they perfectly settle in.

The decoupling sound/noise if we can call it like that honestly is not doing any damage...so I totally agree with the statement from above...to embrace it and ride...because all hassle the waiting etc...and a possibility that some inexperienced guy servicing your new PWX3 is to much to risk especially if in general the motor works well.

But there is always a but...It is just really fu.... annoying when you like a silent bike 🤯😬

I do admit that it is growing a bit on me...I even think it did quiet down a bit and that it's not so loud when the motor is warm.

From all I read/heard I think that this the nature of the beast and there not much it can be done about it. At first I thought it was the frame resonating so I tried to isolate the frame with foam around the battery...it didn't do much good.

Now I think it's actually the motor housing itself that resonates...I am letting it go for now and will ride the bike. Although I will let my LBS know about it and make them do a remark in my service booklet. If it gets any worse then the bike is going back in under warranty...

I will post a few more motor sound videos for anyone that thinks they need it, in different gears/flat terrain, uphill and in different modes(2, 3, 4, A) from today...they're uploading at the moment...

Cheers

Sorry, maybe I am missing something. Is there a particular segment in the video that points to the problem? I thought you were just talking about the whirling sound from the electrical motor, but after watching the video again there may be something else, but I'm not sure if that's the wheel or something.
 
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