What did you buy your ebike this week?

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I brought some 2021 SRAM Code R brakes and upgraded Uber bike E-Matrix E Bike specific pads, 800mm Nukeproof Horizon riser bars. And a new 11 speed quick link as I recently had a chain snap on my last ride.
 
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Brake pads, bleed kit, DHR 2 DD, brake pad thingy you put when getting out the wheel, lube, valves, FF helmet, lock ring.. And the list will increase next week ?
 
This little bad boy. Maxxis Shorty 2.5 WT DD Maxxgrip yada yada yada..... It looks so skinny compared to my front 2.8.

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Finally got round to bolting my new bits on.

160mm Debonair Airshaft upgrade for the Yari
Rockshox Monarch 210x60, shimmed to reduce the stroke (increases the rear travel to 150mm).
29" Nukeproof front wheel with Michelin Wild AM.
Ergon saddle.
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1x new chain for the Levo, only the second one in two years. Broke the current chain last week doing an ill advised climb in too high a gear, fixed it with a quick link, but not too confident in its durability, so pays to have plan B readty
 
Since it's getting colder and wetter (and I needed some new winter gloves):
Sealskinz Waterproof Extreme cold weather gloves:
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And while they were on sale the somewhat thinner Craft Rain Glove 2.0
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Maidentrip tomorrow for the SealSkinz... ?
 
The Hodge said:
Uneccessary?.
Perhaps..( I have on on my e160rs) ..
The day you will be thankful for it ...is the day when the battery runs out ..
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I have the 52t copper version right now
Even powered off my old 50 was fine
I do like the look of the 52 ring though and couldn’t pass up a Black Friday deal
 
routrax said:
That is very nice, it'll be a shame to get it covered in chain gunk.
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BAMBAMODA said:
Yeah. For sure not needed. Your detailer works with the 52?
Don’t forget, Use the space checker in the second gear.
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Yes Axs derailleurs work with the 52
If mechanical, the updated derailleur is needed
Currently have the copper 52 on SL which im moving to my other bike

i do need the new space checker. Stam should include with the cassette. I’m winging it with the old checker
 
routrax said:
That is very nice, it'll be a shame to get it covered in chain gunk.
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Thanks
Didn’t have that issue with previous rainbow cassette
The color just fades as the cassette wears and just becomeare metal
By that time the teeth are already sharp anyways

i do lube and wipe the chain more often now that i have an ebike
 
rydeezie said:
i do need the new space checker. Stam should include with the cassette. I’m winging it with the old checker
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You don't actually need it.
Infact. I never use them. Chain length and suspension chain growth have a large effect on where the jockey wheel sits in each gear so it's actually worth fine tuning B-Tension without using the guide and setting up shifting while taking sag into account. Especially on an Ebike where every little bit extra chainwrap matters even more in the smaller sprockets.
 
Gary said:
You don't actually need it.
Infact. I never use them. Chain length and suspension chain growth have a large effect on where the jockey wheel sits in each gear so it's actually worth fine tuning B-Tension without using the guide and setting up shifting while taking sag into account. Especially on an Ebike where every little bit extra chainwrap matters even more in the smaller sprockets.
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I see what you are saying

So in search for the b tension sweet spot would you say it’s better to have the jockey wheel to be closer, or further from the cassette teeth?

I would imagine as close a possible, while at sag, that would still allow proper fast shifting. Also to have more of the chain to wrap around the cassette....I’m guessing here
 
Yes. the closer it is the greater chainwrap and the quicker your shifts.
Obviously not so close that it causes any issues
 
Gary said:
Yes. the closer it is the greater chainwrap and the quicker your shifts.
Obviously not so close that it causes any issues
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Nice! I always thought it but wasn’t sure. Good to hear it from someone who knows. Thanks for the great advice. Years of tinkering with bikes and still learning something new.

i also try to have as many links as possible when i have to cut a new chain. When off the bike there is no tension with the chain and derailleur when on smallest ring. I hope it’s ok. Haven’t had any issues so far
 
rydeezie said:
i also try to have as many links as possible when i have to cut a new chain. When off the bike there is no tension with the chain and derailleur when on smallest ring. I hope it’s ok. Haven’t had any issues so far
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No. this is pretty much the opposite of what length chain you want.
cycle the rear swing arm (with no air in the shock or spring removed) to find the point where it creates greatest chaingrowth and shorten your chain to just long enough when shifted into your largest rear sprocket.
 
Gary said:
No. this is pretty much the opposite of what length chain you want.
cycle the rear swing arm (with no air in the shock or spring removed) to find the point where it creates greatest chaingrowth and shorten your chain to just long enough when shifted into your largest rear sprocket.
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Ok that’s how i used to do it before trying this new method which consists of cutting each link one by one. For some reason i had this idea of having as many links as possible. I think i just remove 4 links in the process

I wanted my derailleur to be “relaxed” when not in use and start to have tension when I’m on the bike. But not too loose of a chain where it would cause issues when the wheels are off the ground

I guess the correct way is for the chain to be as short as possible but still enough at greatest chain growth
 
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that idea doesn't really make any sense . the tension on the lower portion of chain is only created by the the derailleur cage spring/clutch. and there's no reason for that spring to need to be "relaxed"
all you're doing by running too long a chain is creating more chain flap/slap and reducing chain retention. and that's pretty much the last thing you want your chain to be doing while you're in the air.
 
When we had our normal mountain bikes, wife was always a mile behind me so we got e-mountain bikes.

Now we have our ebikes wife is still always 1 mile behind me ?

I therefore bought these 2 way radios to keep in contact ?

they come with hands free headsets but I’m not convinced about the quality. I did buy a better headset to try and will test them out today. Could be a big waste of money but worth a try.

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Beekeeper said:
When we had our normal mountain bikes, wife was always a mile behind me so we got e-mountain bikes.

Now we have our ebikes wife is still always 1 mile behind me ?

I therefore bought these 2 way radios to keep in contact ?

they come with hands free headsets but I’m not convinced about the quality. I did buy a better headset to try and will test them out today. Could be a big waste of money but worth a try.

View attachment 46323
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800mm Nukeproof Horizon riser bars.
Now on the look out for deal on a nukeproof horizon stem 31.8 to50mm.
 
Sander23 said:
Are those pedals any good? Been looking to get some rick ross to
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I can confirm, the RockBros pedals are serving me very well! The 135mm pedal width is exactly what I was after. Occasionally I get few more pedal strikes when riding through narrow tracks, but I prefer to have larger surface area between my boots and the pedals.
I have lubed the pedals with WD40, also applied light-strength Loctite to the screw-on spikes and I expect it to last few seasons.
 
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