Official Merida eOne-Sixty thread
- Thread starter Basy
- Start date
The travel on the bike is not so relevant, the eye to eye length of the shock and the travel is important. 205mm x 65mm is the correct length to fit the eone sixty. The tune in the damper also needs to match the leverage ratio of the bike which makes rear shocks a tricky one as well
miercoleando
Member
Hanger: For ebike look for dh-57 (like the post above)
Hi Guys,
I have just picked up my 2020 e160 9000 and after its maiden ride I am very impressed with it .
A few newbie questions for you -
How do I change the Handle bars and stem with cables running through the stem and bars ? I want to put on renthal bars and a 50mm stem .
Cheers
I have just picked up my 2020 e160 9000 and after its maiden ride I am very impressed with it .
A few newbie questions for you -
How do I change the Handle bars and stem with cables running through the stem and bars ? I want to put on renthal bars and a 50mm stem .
Cheers
HORSPWR
E*POWAH Master
You'll have to run the cables externally if want to run anything other than the Merida Di2 bar or the Pro Di2 bar, if you get the Shimano rubber bands then it looks ok with them on the outside.
If you run a black bar and use the shimano rubber bands you can get a very stealth result. Usually first thing I do on a new bikes is a new set of bars but I actually really like the stock bend. Went with a 50mm renthal stem for a tad more reach.
I had the same thing happen. I looked everywhere, turned out to embarrassingly be my left foot shoelace plastic end thingy from my 5-10's tapping on the side of the motor plastic guard.
First observation - I have to concur with the opening page with respect the range...Im no way getting 30miles from a battery. Maybe, as ex-demo, its been sat around in the shop fully charged for months or more. With 30 miles @ delivery, it has 97% health..Who knows. Range anxiety s a thing !
Ive made a few changes. I want to change the stem.
Id like to keep standard bars...although a different bend would solve it, I'd like to keep it simple, and internally wired if possible..
Issue seems to be that the wiring exits the bar at the stem clamp...so choices are limited by this but not only this, also bar size (35mm ). But here's the kicker..
Im not familair with the fork stem arrangements. Can I use a less tall stem and leave a gap between the stem bottom and the spacers on the steering post proper..? EDIT- Perhaps they aren't spacers but the clamping/lock rings that set the bearing tension..? Or do I need to get a stem with stack height of 40mm? Then there's the whole 40-50-65mm thing. Id like to keep it stock @35mm(?) What I want is a rise of say 5-10mm...so an angled stem. 40mm stack height. rise of +5mm, cut out to clear wiring, 35 bar and 35mm long.
Any suggestions. Am I over thinking the fit and finish...
If I fit this..do I have to drop the steering stem through it leaving 4mm proud, thus only gaining 1mm? Nukeproof Horizon Stem | Tredz Bikes
Otherwise.
185.5cms on a large
Fitted : DMR V12 Mag pedals. 165 Hollowtech cranks. Ergon Gel sport saddle in large. Lightweight bashplate/rock guard.
Waiting on: E7000 switch for left bar, and Rockshox 1x dropper switch upgrade for Reverb. Hope 1/4 bash guard ( not sure if this will clear the chain guide?)
Thanks for looking.
Ive made a few changes. I want to change the stem.
Id like to keep standard bars...although a different bend would solve it, I'd like to keep it simple, and internally wired if possible..
Issue seems to be that the wiring exits the bar at the stem clamp...so choices are limited by this but not only this, also bar size (35mm ). But here's the kicker..
Im not familair with the fork stem arrangements. Can I use a less tall stem and leave a gap between the stem bottom and the spacers on the steering post proper..? EDIT- Perhaps they aren't spacers but the clamping/lock rings that set the bearing tension..? Or do I need to get a stem with stack height of 40mm? Then there's the whole 40-50-65mm thing. Id like to keep it stock @35mm(?) What I want is a rise of say 5-10mm...so an angled stem. 40mm stack height. rise of +5mm, cut out to clear wiring, 35 bar and 35mm long.
Any suggestions. Am I over thinking the fit and finish...
If I fit this..do I have to drop the steering stem through it leaving 4mm proud, thus only gaining 1mm? Nukeproof Horizon Stem | Tredz Bikes
Otherwise.
185.5cms on a large
Fitted : DMR V12 Mag pedals. 165 Hollowtech cranks. Ergon Gel sport saddle in large. Lightweight bashplate/rock guard.
Waiting on: E7000 switch for left bar, and Rockshox 1x dropper switch upgrade for Reverb. Hope 1/4 bash guard ( not sure if this will clear the chain guide?)
Thanks for looking.
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I have fitted E6010 switches left and right; much easier/faster to use and cleaner looking than the trigger shifts. Also, this then allows the dropper button to be moved from above the bar on the right to below on the left, where the ergonomics are much better.
Ok..thanks for that.
Both of which I am doing as we speak...
What I was hoping to learn of is a stem that will not obstruct the wiring to the bike computer as they exit the bars. I want to lift the bars- I feel like Im over the front wheel an excessive amount. Its geo, I know...handling isnt the issue however..its cockpit ergonomics..kd like to lift the bars some and rotate them back a bit...
I ordered that Nukeproof. Im already regretting it as the description claims reversible but looking at it, the cut out that would clear the wiring is only on the top....
I hate internet shopping- cant beat having the things in front of you!!
EDIT : Cancelled the Nukeproof stem and ordered DMR Defy 35+ Quite a modest stack height at 27mm (oem 40mm) I hope its man enough. I'll keep yous posted with some pics when it all gets bolted up..!
Both of which I am doing as we speak...
What I was hoping to learn of is a stem that will not obstruct the wiring to the bike computer as they exit the bars. I want to lift the bars- I feel like Im over the front wheel an excessive amount. Its geo, I know...handling isnt the issue however..its cockpit ergonomics..kd like to lift the bars some and rotate them back a bit...
I ordered that Nukeproof. Im already regretting it as the description claims reversible but looking at it, the cut out that would clear the wiring is only on the top....
I hate internet shopping- cant beat having the things in front of you!!
EDIT : Cancelled the Nukeproof stem and ordered DMR Defy 35+ Quite a modest stack height at 27mm (oem 40mm) I hope its man enough. I'll keep yous posted with some pics when it all gets bolted up..!
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First hurdle- Hope 1/4 bashguard for chain ring- wont clear the chain on a Shimano 34T chainring running KMC X11e chain 1x11.
Neither the retailer or Hope will fess up and accept liability. Opened packaging ( meaning I cant get a refund) leaves me holding a useless ( even as a paperweight) alu bash guard..
Typical...Worse than motorcycle bandwagon...lol
Neither the retailer or Hope will fess up and accept liability. Opened packaging ( meaning I cant get a refund) leaves me holding a useless ( even as a paperweight) alu bash guard..
Typical...Worse than motorcycle bandwagon...lol
My E8000 controller wasnt long enough with 400mm cable so it had to go back...
Progress so far..
Anaconda both ends..
Saddle
Bashgaurd from Rallysaloon
Stem ( not the prettiest but it gets the baars up and allows the rotation freely without snagging wiring exit for display)- found some trick spacers too..
Pedals ( match the spacers)
Mudguards ( jeez its muddy without !)
Some decent jocki wheels with ceramic bearings...
pics...
EDIT _:_
Finally fitted the E7K controller and underbar remote for the dropper...swapped out the grips whilst there also.. So much mess dealt with in a simple switch change.
Progress so far..
Anaconda both ends..
Saddle
Bashgaurd from Rallysaloon
Stem ( not the prettiest but it gets the baars up and allows the rotation freely without snagging wiring exit for display)- found some trick spacers too..
Pedals ( match the spacers)
Mudguards ( jeez its muddy without !)
Some decent jocki wheels with ceramic bearings...
pics...
EDIT _:_
Finally fitted the E7K controller and underbar remote for the dropper...swapped out the grips whilst there also.. So much mess dealt with in a simple switch change.
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RGH200
New Member
Loving the rear coil setup. Looking to do the same on my Titanium Eone Sixty 800. Are there any tips you found when spec'ing the coil to avoid contact with the frame etc?
miercoleando
Member
I have done a few changes
Lezyne macro 1000 connected to the motor, internal cabling
Ew-en100 junction replacing the screen e8000
And GPS showing battery status
Next comes to replace the left gear switch with the e7000, and source me a proper switch for the dropper
Lezyne macro 1000 connected to the motor, internal cabling
Ew-en100 junction replacing the screen e8000
And GPS showing battery status
Next comes to replace the left gear switch with the e7000, and source me a proper switch for the dropper
I have done a few changes
Lezyne macro 1000 connected to the motor, internal cabling
Ew-en100 junction replacing the screen e8000
And GPS showing battery status
Next comes to replace the left gear switch with the e7000, and source me a proper switch for the dropper
View attachment 26281
The E6010 switch is better; it has a third (middle) button which scrolls through the functions on the display, so you don't have to take your right hand off the bar to use the tiny button on the actual unit. This also means you can move the dropper post button to the left and under the bar, where is is much easier to operate.
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miercoleando
Member
Interesting, thanks !!
I first thought...well, not an issue, I don't have the screen anymore,
Then I realized...how I will turn on & off the lights?
Seriously, they can do better.....
EDIT: A long press will switch the light on & off. I eat my words (gladly)
I first thought...well, not an issue, I don't have the screen anymore,
Then I realized...how I will turn on & off the lights?
Seriously, they can do better.....
EDIT: A long press will switch the light on & off. I eat my words (gladly)
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I've fitted the same light and it reduced my range by 20km and the bike was shutting down at 2 bars. Make sure you turn the battery reserve down to 0 minutes from the usual 180 minutes. STunlocker can do this.I have done a few changes
Lezyne macro 1000 connected to the motor, internal cabling
Ew-en100 junction replacing the screen e8000
And GPS showing battery status
Next comes to replace the left gear switch with the e7000, and source me a proper switch for the dropper
View attachment 26281
HORSPWR
E*POWAH Master
Were'd you get the jockey wheels/brand?
miercoleando
Member
Yes!!! The light reserve was a no-go for me, till I learned about St unlocker
RGH200
New Member
I've just finished upgrading my selector switch from an 8000 series lever style to a 7000 series selector switch. Seems to give a lot more room for the dropper lever, looks a lot neater and works well.
If anyone else wants to do this then be sure you get the 700mm cable option as you'll need it for the routing through the bars! Other than that it's simply plug n play!!
If anyone else wants to do this then be sure you get the 700mm cable option as you'll need it for the routing through the bars! Other than that it's simply plug n play!!
noob2gnarly
Member
Any particular mud guards that you recommend for the e160? Would like a bit more coverage than the ones that came with the bike so I don’t look like I shat myself when I get to work... ?
HORSPWR
E*POWAH Master
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