System weigth? Diameter rotors? Did you bleed the brakes? Possibly brake pads glazed. How did you use the rear brake?I bought the CANYON striven underdog with DB8 brakes as I wanted my bike black not green. The first 3 rides the brakes worked ok but not good as you have to push very hard in order to get an acceptable brake performance. Yesterday I was the first time in the alps in Grindelwald and I had a horrible experience during a long down ride.... 1st you get spasms in fingers and arms when you have to squeeze the brakes. After 2/3 of the down ride my back brake lost completely the pressure and I was lucky that on the right side was only gras as I turned right with 50 Km/h and jumped off the bike... nothing haamppend to me beside some minor blessings... the brake pressure was completely soft for 1/2 hour and came back partially again. It is a brandnew bike with brandnew brakes. This brake is dangerous and not constrcuted for Enduro or Downhill EMTB.... I will exchange my DB 8 brakes against Shimano, Magura or Acura... need first to study the latest test. SRAM DB 8 is dangerous and you risk ur life with it.
Your thoughts on SRAM's new DB 8 brakes
- Thread starter RiderOnTheStorm
- Start date
Pad drag is worse than Magura MT 5. Rotors are too light.
Mario Antony
Active member
Yes, disks could be thicker...
Side note / opinion:
In coming years we'll have thick rotors (probably between 2.5 and 3mm. Motos have >4mm!).
This will help on long descents, and also probably we'll be riding 240/250 front and 220/230 rear.
Hope this "upgrade" comes without speed limit and the 25kg weight limit that some think it's heavy on full power emtb.
These beasts (full power) aren't bikes/mtb, and the sooner people move on and actually embrace the Full Power Ebike stuff, manufacturers will start selling actual emtb full power machines (double crown/real brakes/internal gear box/around 80/100km range in middle settings).
But for the moment, nothing like embrace and enjoy what's available
barry162
New Member
I have contacted yesterday Canyon and they want to analyze the brakes as they want to find out the root cause of it... which is the right way as it also could be an assembly error or a material error... they said, they will exchange the brakes and send my one to an lab. Canyon said this for them necessary as they have to understand if this was a single case or if it was systematic failure.
RiderOnTheStorm
E*POWAH Master
I have the DB8’s on a new Orbea Wild and so far they are good. They aren’t very refined looking but I don’t much care about that. They don’t have the same power as shimano XT’s which is the only thing I have to compare them to, but they are better than I expected.
I’ve only put 25 miles on them so I’m uncertain how they will hold up. I intend to get out to a trail with much longer sustained descending on Friday. I’ll report back on how they handle it.
I’ve only put 25 miles on them so I’m uncertain how they will hold up. I intend to get out to a trail with much longer sustained descending on Friday. I’ll report back on how they handle it.
I got a good ride in on the DB8’s today. Right at 3000 feet/914.4 meters of climbing/descending with multiple hits in the mid 20 mph/32.18 kph range and a top speed of 28 mph/45 kph. The brakes honestly did really well. No noticeable fade and I feel like they modulate decently well and allowed for some late braking coming into the corners when traction allowed. So far so good. For the sake of providing all info I weigh about 160 lbs/72.6 kg ready to ride. I’ll keep updating as I get more time on them.
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Couple more rides and I’m experiencing some pad drag. I’ve re-centered them twice but as soon as everything starts to heat up it shows back up. It seems like 200mm rotors may need to be thicker? I’m just guessing on this.
My test period with these brakes is quickly coming to an end. I have new wheels coming with 6 bolt hubs and I will need to buy new rotors. I’m thinking of making the switch to new brakes with the new rotors. Not because the DB8’s are bad brakes. Mainly because I have no self control when it comes to bike parts.
My test period with these brakes is quickly coming to an end. I have new wheels coming with 6 bolt hubs and I will need to buy new rotors. I’m thinking of making the switch to new brakes with the new rotors. Not because the DB8’s are bad brakes. Mainly because I have no self control when it comes to bike parts.
Ok, one more report on these brakes. I got a long ride in today and they are really solid. I have the rotors centered much better. I was getting a tiny bit of contact on the rotor but it only occurs when everything is hot after extended stretches of descending at speed. I believe the rotor is warping a tiny bit from the heat and brushing the pads. As soon as they cool down a bit they are back to good.
I wanted to elaborate on that because before I mentioned “pad drag”. That almost implies that it’s due to the caliper and it’s definitely not. These are really solid brakes as far as I am concerned.
I’ll be able to compare them soon to the Hayes dominion A4’s that showed up with the fed ex truck today. They certainly aren’t necessary as I really like the DB 8’s. When I ride my bike I’m always amazed at how perfect it is. When I’m not riding my bike, I’m feverishly researching the internet looking for the perfect next part that I don’t really need.
I wanted to elaborate on that because before I mentioned “pad drag”. That almost implies that it’s due to the caliper and it’s definitely not. These are really solid brakes as far as I am concerned.
I’ll be able to compare them soon to the Hayes dominion A4’s that showed up with the fed ex truck today. They certainly aren’t necessary as I really like the DB 8’s. When I ride my bike I’m always amazed at how perfect it is. When I’m not riding my bike, I’m feverishly researching the internet looking for the perfect next part that I don’t really need.
If you want a bit more distance between the pads and the rotor you can bleed the brakes using a little thicker bleed block.
That’s a neat idea. I would imagine the thickness of an old bank card combined with the bleed block would do the trick.
R3Z3N
Member
Actually both are wrong to an extent. Modulation is the feeling from initial pad contact to full lockup, and how that power ramps up (or back). Little modulation means it is harder to control little applied brakes to full lock and vice versa. Handfuls of modulation means it is easy to control how much brake force feels to be applied. Pad choice matters heavily here.
This is NOT defined by the lever pull distance. In a perfect hydraulic system, from initial pad contact to full lockup, the lever will not pull further. Sadly due to orings, pad compression, brake master flex, caliper flex and hose expansion, we have quite a bit of lever pull AFTER initial pad contact.
However, the human body is terrible at feeling distance, but rather much more superb at determining differences in force required for an action.
Changing pads will be the easist method to change modulation. However, to get more POWER means using smaller master and/or bigger caliper pistons at the con of giving the rider LESS resolution to feel the difference between initial pad contact and lockup. This is exactly why Codes/DB8s have so much modulation feel: because they are down on power and we have to pull MUCH MUCH harder with 1 itty bitty finger that can only pull 59.5 ± 21.4 N. Then that also means brakes like the Trickstuff Maxima, Hope Tech 4 V4, Hayes Dominions give LESS resolution due to the human factor. As stated by these 3 companies, reducing friction and pad choice is huge in giving modulation feel back to the rider.
This is why race cars use manual brakes and are designed to have an input of ~350lbs of force, and cars sold for the road 60lbs. I can control my race car brakes MUCH more, though physical exertion is high enough that I have to workout my legs just to stop the car. Comparing that to my autocross stock car with assisted brakes, much less resolution to get maximum braking potential, but much physically easier to push my leg in, meaning for more chance to get it wrong. The reason we choose higher power brakes, is not for the modulation, but because our itty bitty fingers get super tired and need a beer to open.
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R3Z3N
Member
However shortly after riding due to piston rollback, it will be as if one bled the brakes with the thinner rotor instead of thicker bleed block. This is why we have reservoirs with bladders, as the pads and rotor wear, bite point should in theory stay consistent. However as they approach extreme ends of wear, the pistons extend further and are supported less by the caliper block, which cants the pistons ever so slightly upon braking, causing the rider to feel less modulation. Also, heat soak then may start to be a problem for rotor, pads, pistons and caliper body. (as is the case for Codes....)
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BIG-DUKE-6
Active member
I believe this is accurate
BIG-DUKE-6
Active member
Here is a 200 mile update on my DB8s
I’m 220 5-11” and am riding an Orbea Wild with the 750 battery.
My average XC speed is usually right around 13 mph so these brakes are getting a workout. Once I got the rotors bedded in it took 2 finger squeeze to get the tires to lock up. Now at 200 miles the brakes have gotten noticeably squishier and it takes a full squeeze to get the tires to lock up . I think this is a good brake system for the lighter XC/Enduro rider. For the bigger/ e-bike/ both like me. You might want to step it up to a more powerful system. Super cross lol
I’m 220 5-11” and am riding an Orbea Wild with the 750 battery.
My average XC speed is usually right around 13 mph so these brakes are getting a workout. Once I got the rotors bedded in it took 2 finger squeeze to get the tires to lock up. Now at 200 miles the brakes have gotten noticeably squishier and it takes a full squeeze to get the tires to lock up . I think this is a good brake system for the lighter XC/Enduro rider. For the bigger/ e-bike/ both like me. You might want to step it up to a more powerful system. Super cross lol
I was directed here by @Dax for some more information on the DB8’s.
This brake system came standard on a new Fuel EXE 8. My initial intention was to change these to MT7’s. (Full disclosure, I only have experience with MT7’s, MT8’s , Shimano XT, and some Tektro).
I’m glad I had an opportunity to use these DB8’s before I read the pros and cons in this thread. Good info btw. I was skeptical of the Sram braking system, especially for these mid to low-end brakes. (I mean affordable $$).
However after using them, and getting use to them, I found the power and modulation fairly good for a lightweight eMTB. I’m gonna keep these, but I wouldn’t install a set on my FF Rail. I might find that the stopping power and effortless feel just isn’t there. But I like the DB8’s on my lighter eMTB (Fuel EXE).
But…SRAM might be coming out with a new (heavy duty I assume) brake model in the next week or so. Either that or my source is unreliable. (Some guy that knows about this stuff).
This brake system came standard on a new Fuel EXE 8. My initial intention was to change these to MT7’s. (Full disclosure, I only have experience with MT7’s, MT8’s , Shimano XT, and some Tektro).
I’m glad I had an opportunity to use these DB8’s before I read the pros and cons in this thread. Good info btw. I was skeptical of the Sram braking system, especially for these mid to low-end brakes. (I mean affordable $$).
However after using them, and getting use to them, I found the power and modulation fairly good for a lightweight eMTB. I’m gonna keep these, but I wouldn’t install a set on my FF Rail. I might find that the stopping power and effortless feel just isn’t there. But I like the DB8’s on my lighter eMTB (Fuel EXE).
But…SRAM might be coming out with a new (heavy duty I assume) brake model in the next week or so. Either that or my source is unreliable. (Some guy that knows about this stuff).
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Hahaha …no. The new sram brakes use mineral oil. The mineral oil has a green tint …apparently.
Blue tint or royal blood is Magura
Red tint is Shimano.
All mineral oil. Not baby oil.
Dot fluid has a short shelf life.
Olive oil is good on salads.
Olive oil...just like Shimano. What I've always like about this oil is the ability to pull over to the side of the trail on a long ride, break out my backpack stove, and boil up a little pasta using this fine, quality olive oil. Very healthy and refreshing on a long ride.
But seriously, I'm finding the same results as Stihldog. I was disappointed at first as my Rail 7 is supposed to have a lower level set of Shimano 4-piston brakes which I know from experience work quite well. I also have XT 4-piston brakes on another big hit emtb.
This was traced back from our shop to Trek that it was a supply chain issue. My Rail is a Gen 2 2022 model. However, after riding with these brakes for a few weeks at least every other day...my main local trail is only 10 miles from my home...I'm decently impressed. I ride aggressively in Bosch Turbo mode with a VOLspeed tuning unit, and we have a few fast, longer, steep descents. No fade, no squeal, no change in level travel, and no great effort on the levers for full power. I haven't found an issue with them yet.
Hopefully this weekend I will be riding this bike for the first time out at our off road club ranch where we have all kinds of off road events, and it has about 100 miles of single track. While this part of Texas isn't the Alps or the Rockies, it has some gnarly, fast descents off of very tall mesas. So this will be more of a test for the ultimate performance of these brakes.
Jamie78
Member
For what it's worth, I've had the db8s on a couple bikes now and on my new heckler.
I tried switching to Shimano levers and found they are way more powerful, but less modulation.
I don't mind then, but prefer a bit stronger engagement. I'll likely add Shimano levers again as they came with my heckler.
I tried switching to Shimano levers and found they are way more powerful, but less modulation.
I don't mind then, but prefer a bit stronger engagement. I'll likely add Shimano levers again as they came with my heckler.
Did you need to change the fittings on the Sram hose or did it just screw in and work?
I have seen a YouTube clip of someone doing this conversion and they claimed the Sram fittings went straight into the Shimano lever without changing a thing.
Outdoor_Rider
New Member
Anyone know what the correct part number for these Sram DB8 replacement lever blades is? Ordered Sram DB8 B1 replacement blade but as you can see it’s a slightly different shape up top causing it to sit too close to the bar.
Perhaps the part number is stamped on the underside of the lever (or somewhere semi hidden)? Just guessing.
I just looked and I can’t see any stamped part number on my levers. But I don’t know whether I have regular or stealth levers. ?
I recently removed this brake systems from my Fuel EXE and installed them on a hardtail Powerfly. The MT8’s were then installed on my Fuel EXE. Front brakes were easy. The rear brake hoses needed to be threaded through the frame/motor/ battery compartment/ headset etc. olives and barbs had to be cut off. No problem.
The new olive and barb system is a little different for the DB8. The new type of olive is reverse threaded over the barb ( after that’s installed). Perhaps that’s a better method?
Regardless, I still added an extremely thin wipe of grease to all the new components and tightened things up …normally.
I prefer the Magura levers and I tolerate the constant master cylinder bleeds.
Outdoor_Rider
New Member
All sorted, just for anyone stuck in the future. Sram only sell replacement lever blades for the stealth (in line with the bar) model. For the regular DB8 you need a whole new lever assembly.
Out of curiosity, what is the difference between a "replacement lever blade" and a "whole new lever assembly"? Does that mean replacing the complete brake unit?
I’ve looked at the two levers more closely. (Original pic). I don’t see any difference in the lever shapes based on the pivot point where it must be assembled to the master cylinder. There is however a slight difference in the adjustment screw area.
Is the lever on the left the new one? Looks like it. The other hole in the lever houses a cylindrical type nutt that allows for lever positions. An Allen keyed bolt can be adjusted to vary the distance between the bar and lever.
Perhaps all the lever parts are not included, or assembled, in a replacement lever.
The adjustment bolt is hidden within the lever and master cylinder.
But hey…maybe I’m wrong?
Outdoor_Rider
New Member
The lever I purchased for the stealth DB8 fits just fine but as you said it’s a different shape at the top where the adjustment bolt sits. As you can see in the picture you can’t get enough lever throw away from the bar. In this picture the reach adjustment is fully in which should give a much further distance away from bar. In a push I think you could probably file the top part down a touch to give you more lever throw (circled red in picture). But a full DB8 lever assembly isn’t crazy expensive.
SRAM DB8 4 Piston Rear brake and caliper 2000mm
The DB8 rear brake delivers powerful, consistent braking in a low-maintenance mineral oil system designed for long-term reliability. Proven SRAM lever technology provides easy access to adjustments and excellent ergonomic comfort, while Code-inspired caliper architecture and pad compatibility...
www.bananaindustries.co.uk
You know you can get a whole DB8 for £20 + post ?
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