Wheels!

[ArjanH]

Have been through a bunch of Spokes now, a bucket load of new rim tape and gallons of seal. I am throwing in the towel on the OEM wheels.

What is good? I am kinda eyeing up the Crank brother synthesis ones but am open to suggestions.

 

[Astro66]

The rims are fine. Just change the hubs and spokes. I use the DT Swiss 350 Clones. The Koozer 350. They have been brilliant and I haven't broken a single J-Type spoke since. Front and rear hubs is about AUD$220. 56 spokes about AUD$50.

Or pay more and get the DT Swiss 350 hubs. Either way it's much cheaper than buying a wheelset, and you keep the original Amflow Rims.

 

[ArjanH]

The rims are fine. Just change the hubs and spokes. I use the DT Swiss 350 Clones. The Koozer 350. They have been brilliant and I haven't broken a single J-Type spoke since. Front and rear hubs is about AUD$220. 56 spokes about AUD$50.

Or pay more and get the DT Swiss 350 hubs. Either way it's much cheaper than buying a wheelset, and you keep the original Amflow Rims.

Interesting ... I had all the spokes upgraded to Sapim 2.0 1.5 2.0 but they are still breaking ... what difference would a hub make? Bare in mind that I have noticed they all seem to break near the same place very close to the rim. So in the thickest part. I was thinking the rim (all breaks are on the rear) is just too flexy. But the last one yesterday broke on a straight bit of track just as I started braking. I wasn't even going fast.

 

[Astro66]

what difference would a hub make?

J-Type spokes. And laced up with correct tension.

I found bloody Loctite on the Amflow original spoke nipples. I couldn't even reset the tension, and infact had to cut many of the spokes to get them out. They were just a shit build.

But the Amflow carbon rims are very well built. Quality looks fantastic. So for sub AUD$300, you can have a great quality set of carbon wheels, and hub, by changing out the hubs and spokes. I have done the same on my Teewing Flux. No broken spokes. Hub performing well.

BTW. I did initially use hubs with alloy axles. That was a mistake. They did bend slightly under extreme use. But the Koozer and DT 350 hubs have ChroMoly axles and have been great. Just grease the freehub ratchet faces well before installing.

 

[ArjanH]

J-Type spokes. And laced up with correct tension.

I found bloody Loctite on the Amflow original spoke nipples. I couldn't even reset the tension, and infact had to cut many of the spokes to get them out. They were just a shit build.

But the Amflow carbon rims are very well built. Quality looks fantastic. So for sub AUD$300, you can have a great quality set of carbon wheels, and hub, by changing out the hubs and spokes. I have done the same on my Teewing Flux. No broken spokes. Hub performing well.

BTW. I did initially use hubs with alloy axles. That was a mistake. They did bend slightly under extreme use. But the Koozer and DT 350 hubs have ChroMoly axles and have been great. Just grease the freehub ratchet faces well before installing.

Funny thing ... my LBS told me the same thing about the rims. Well, it's worth a try, I guess. I'll let you know how it goes.

 

[Astro66]

my LBS told me the same thing about the rims.

I joined the Amflow facebook group. Haven't heard of failed rims yet. Have seen a couple of rim impacts that cracked the rim. But every one you could see the tyre was damaged as well. So clearly an under-inflation issue, and why I run the Tannus Armour Liners, so I can run lower pressures, without risk of rim damage.

But hubs and spokes. Seen lots of rebuilt hubs. Most bearing failures. Lots of broken spokes. I'd say most are poor spoke tensioning.

 

[Vision_Tim]

The stock aluminum hoops are too soft. Second ride a root dented the rear wheel on a root strike that never affects my others 4 bikes. 29psi, going 8mph (I have video.). Warranty denied. Switched out with Hunt Proven Enduros and no issues since.

 

[ozzybmx]

I bought the silver Amflow because I didn't want electronic shifting, the fork, the wheels, the brakes. dropper etc ....

Built my own wheels, stuck with the shifting, TRP pro brakes, Carbon wheels with DT 240 and Comp spokes, mech BikeYoke dropper, shit that I alway run and am happy.

The wheels are shit, the dropper is shit, the bars, the stem and brakes. The fork is good for 60kg girls, at least give that bike a 38.

 

[Astro66]

Second ride a root dented the rear wheel on a root strike that never affects my others 4 bikes.

I've dented RaceFace Alloy DH rims. And they are tough rims. That's why I started running Armoured Liners. Never dented a rim again. Never got a puncture again.

I can now run lighter alloy rims with the Armoured Liners, and still no issues. I'm running the lighter alloys on the Teewing, rather than carbon.

 

[EMTB-by-the-Sea]

Found a deal on a Reserve 30SL rear wheel with DT350 hub when I did my mullet setup. Been running that out of the box with no issue. Now tempted to get a matching front wheel (mostly because I'm vain ).

 

[Brawwp]

Keep the amflow wheels for when you sell the bike. Invest in a very good wheelset. You can just swap the wheelset on your next bike too. We are one, reserve, etc. it’s a worthy investment. I bent my amflow stock wheel on like the second ride. Replaced with we are one wheelset and had zero issue. Went with reserves on my new bike build. Reserve and WAO also have lifetime warranty, so if any issue just put the a stock back on and send it out.

 

[ArjanH]

Keep the amflow wheels for when you sell the bike. Invest in a very good wheelset. You can just swap the wheelset on your next bike too. We are one, reserve, etc. it’s a worthy investment. I bent my amflow stock wheel on like the second ride. Replaced with we are one wheelset and had zero issue. Went with reserves on my new bike build. Reserve and WAO also have lifetime warranty, so if any issue just put the a stock back on and send it out.

Sell my bike? You are talking like my ex wife . I see your point though ... Yes these wheels are not going anywhere.

 

[Brawwp]

Sell my bike? You are talking like my ex wife . I see your point though ... Yes these wheels are not going anywhere.

Sell to only get another new one

 

[dreys]

Interesting ... I had all the spokes upgraded to Sapim 2.0 1.5 2.0 but they are still breaking ... what difference would a hub make? Bare in mind that I have noticed they all seem to break near the same place very close to the rim. So in the thickest part. I was thinking the rim (all breaks are on the rear) is just too flexy. But the last one yesterday broke on a straight bit of track just as I started braking. I wasn't even going fast.

Going with 2.0/1.5/2.0 is a downgrade, not an upgrade. Get stronger 2.0/1.8/2.0 spokes, and have someone professionally build you a set with correct tension.

 

[franciscoasismm]

AMflow: The motor is up to par. Now it's time for the peripheral components to be as well. The AMflow PX Carbon and PX Carbon Pro have one of the most powerful and interesting motor platforms on the market: Avinox offers top-tier torque, responsiveness, integration, and performance. But precisely for that reason, it's difficult to justify that such a critical component as the rear hub bearings is apparently made with parts of questionable quality. The Doctor Ebikes video points out the use of 6903-2RS / 6903 RS NBK bearings in the rear hub. The part number itself isn't the problem: the problem is that we're talking about bearings that can be found as inexpensive replacements for just a few euros. A pair can be found on AliExpress for approximately €3.29. For a bike like the AMflow PX Pro, this is very poor. The rear hub of a full-power eBike doesn't perform well under smooth conditions. It withstands high torque, impacts, additional weight, lateral loads, mud, water, washing, vibrations, and continuous stress. It's not a minor detail. It's a component subjected to real mechanical stress. A cheap bearing can end up causing: premature play, rear wheel noise, water or dirt ingress, loss of smoothness, more maintenance than necessary, and a poor perception of quality in a premium bicycle. AMflow should address this issue and use higher-quality bearings as standard, with proper sealing and from reputable brands: SKF, NTN, NSK, FAG, Enduro Bearings, or equivalent high-end brands. We're not talking about redesigning the bicycle or significantly increasing its price. We're talking about not skimping on a critical mechanical component. An eBike of this price and level shouldn't fail due to a low-cost bearing. The motor is up to par. The frame is up to par. The integration is up to par. Now it's time for the peripheral components to be up to par. AMflow needs to address the poor quality of the rear hub bearings and install a component that matches the bike's actual performance level. AMflow: The motor is up to par. Now it's time for the peripheral components to be as well. Source: Doctor Ebikes AMflow: The motor is up to par. Now it's time for the peripheral components to be as well.

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[Brawwp]

AMflow: The motor is up to par. Now it's time for the peripheral components to be as well. The AMflow PX Carbon and PX Carbon Pro have one of the most powerful and interesting motor platforms on the market: Avinox offers top-tier torque, responsiveness, integration, and performance. But precisely for that reason, it's difficult to justify that such a critical component as the rear hub bearings is apparently made with parts of questionable quality. The Doctor Ebikes video points out the use of 6903-2RS / 6903 RS NBK bearings in the rear hub. The part number itself isn't the problem: the problem is that we're talking about bearings that can be found as inexpensive replacements for just a few euros. A pair can be found on AliExpress for approximately €3.29. For a bike like the AMflow PX Pro, this is very poor. The rear hub of a full-power eBike doesn't perform well under smooth conditions. It withstands high torque, impacts, additional weight, lateral loads, mud, water, washing, vibrations, and continuous stress. It's not a minor detail. It's a component subjected to real mechanical stress. A cheap bearing can end up causing: premature play, rear wheel noise, water or dirt ingress, loss of smoothness, more maintenance than necessary, and a poor perception of quality in a premium bicycle. AMflow should address this issue and use higher-quality bearings as standard, with proper sealing and from reputable brands: SKF, NTN, NSK, FAG, Enduro Bearings, or equivalent high-end brands. We're not talking about redesigning the bicycle or significantly increasing its price. We're talking about not skimping on a critical mechanical component. An eBike of this price and level shouldn't fail due to a low-cost bearing. The motor is up to par. The frame is up to par. The integration is up to par. Now it's time for the peripheral components to be up to par. AMflow needs to address the poor quality of the rear hub bearings and install a component that matches the bike's actual performance level. AMflow: The motor is up to par. Now it's time for the peripheral components to be as well. Source: Doctor Ebikes

Are you suggesting nbk bearings used on the amflow are bad because you can find cheap knock-offs on aliexpress? I don’t get it…

 

[franciscoasismm]

Are you suggesting nbk bearings used on the amflow are bad because you can find cheap knock-offs on aliexpress? I don’t get it…

He didn't just suggest it, he stated it. Doctor ebikes is an industrial engineer. 400 km and the cassette-side bearing is making noise; watch the video. It's not normal for a €10,000 ebike.

 

[Brawwp]

He didn't just suggest it, he stated it. Doctor ebikes is an industrial engineer. 400 km and the cassette-side bearing is making noise; watch the video. It's not normal for a €10,000 ebike.

Sorry the video isn’t in my language. So is it nbk bearing on the bike? Quick search says those aren’t bad bearings. Just because you can get them on aliexpress doesn’t mean the ones on the bike aren’t true nbk bearings right? You can get anything in your house on aliexpress knockoff. Its not the same though.

He could have been pressure washing his bike for all we know. Haven’t heard anyone else claiming bearing issues yet but hopefully it’s not a problem!

 

[franciscoasismm]

Sorry the video isn’t in my language. So is it nbk bearing on the bike? Quick search says those aren’t bad bearings. Just because you can get them on aliexpress doesn’t mean the ones on the bike aren’t true nbk bearings right? You can get anything in your house on aliexpress knockoff. Its not the same though.

He could have been pressure washing his bike for all we know. Haven’t heard anyone else claiming bearing issues yet but hopefully it’s not a problem!

In a full-power eBike with an Avinox motor—more weight, more torque, higher radial/lateral loads, more washing, and more use in mud—I would expect a higher-grade bearing or, at the very least, a clearly premium specification.
On an AMflow PX Carbon Pro, fitting NBK gives the impression of cost-cutting at a critical point. It’s not consistent with a high-end bike.
In short:
“It’s not that the 6903-2RS is incorrect. What’s debatable is using a budget NBK bearing in the rear hub of a €10,000 premium eBike, where SKF, NTN, NSK, FAG, Koyo, Enduro MAX/LLB/LLU, or a bearing with equivalent specification and clear traceability would be the reasonable choice.”

 

[Brawwp]

In a full-power eBike with an Avinox motor—more weight, more torque, higher radial/lateral loads, more washing, and more use in mud—I would expect a higher-grade bearing or, at the very least, a clearly premium specification.
On an AMflow PX Carbon Pro, fitting NBK gives the impression of cost-cutting at a critical point. It’s not consistent with a high-end bike.
In short:
“It’s not that the 6903-2RS is incorrect. What’s debatable is using a budget NBK bearing in the rear hub of a €10,000 premium eBike, where SKF, NTN, NSK, FAG, Koyo, Enduro MAX/LLB/LLU, or a bearing with equivalent specification and clear traceability would be the reasonable choice.”

Gotcha. What are other manufacturers using for rear hub bearings like specialized, ibis, etc on their stock bikes? I guess I never thought about bearings and haven’t really ever heard of early bearing failures on these. But yeah I mean would be nice to have good ones.

The pl carbon had kinda crap wheelset anyway. I bent mine in the first week and immediately replaced with a better wheelset.

 

[franciscoasismm]

Gotcha. What are other manufacturers using for rear hub bearings like specialized, ibis, etc on their stock bikes? I guess I never thought about bearings and haven’t really ever heard of early bearing failures on these. But yeah I mean would be nice to have good ones.

The pl carbon had kinda crap wheelset anyway. I bent mine in the first week and immediately replaced with a better wheelset.

SKF, NTN, NSK, FAG, Enduro Bearings