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Interesting ... I had all the spokes upgraded to Sapim 2.0 1.5 2.0 but they are still breaking ... what difference would a hub make? Bare in mind that I have noticed they all seem to break near the same place very close to the rim. So in the thickest part. I was thinking the rim (all breaks are on the rear) is just too flexy. But the last one yesterday broke on a straight bit of track just as I started braking. I wasn't even going fast.The rims are fine. Just change the hubs and spokes. I use the DT Swiss 350 Clones. The Koozer 350. They have been brilliant and I haven't broken a single J-Type spoke since. Front and rear hubs is about AUD$220. 56 spokes about AUD$50.
Or pay more and get the DT Swiss 350 hubs. Either way it's much cheaper than buying a wheelset, and you keep the original Amflow Rims.
J-Type spokes. And laced up with correct tension.what difference would a hub make?
Funny thing ... my LBS told me the same thing about the rims. Well, it's worth a try, I guess. I'll let you know how it goes.J-Type spokes. And laced up with correct tension.
I found bloody Loctite on the Amflow original spoke nipples. I couldn't even reset the tension, and infact had to cut many of the spokes to get them out. They were just a shit build.
But the Amflow carbon rims are very well built. Quality looks fantastic. So for sub AUD$300, you can have a great quality set of carbon wheels, and hub, by changing out the hubs and spokes. I have done the same on my Teewing Flux. No broken spokes. Hub performing well.
BTW. I did initially use hubs with alloy axles. That was a mistake. They did bend slightly under extreme use. But the Koozer and DT 350 hubs have ChroMoly axles and have been great. Just grease the freehub ratchet faces well before installing.
I joined the Amflow facebook group. Haven't heard of failed rims yet. Have seen a couple of rim impacts that cracked the rim. But every one you could see the tyre was damaged as well. So clearly an under-inflation issue, and why I run the Tannus Armour Liners, so I can run lower pressures, without risk of rim damage.my LBS told me the same thing about the rims.
I've dented RaceFace Alloy DH rims. And they are tough rims. That's why I started running Armoured Liners. Never dented a rim again. Never got a puncture again.Second ride a root dented the rear wheel on a root strike that never affects my others 4 bikes.
Sell my bike? You are talking like my ex wifeKeep the amflow wheels for when you sell the bike. Invest in a very good wheelset. You can just swap the wheelset on your next bike too. We are one, reserve, etc. it’s a worthy investment. I bent my amflow stock wheel on like the second ride. Replaced with we are one wheelset and had zero issue. Went with reserves on my new bike build. Reserve and WAO also have lifetime warranty, so if any issue just put the a stock back on and send it out.
Sell to only get another new oneSell my bike? You are talking like my ex wife. I see your point though ... Yes these wheels are not going anywhere.
Going with 2.0/1.5/2.0 is a downgrade, not an upgrade. Get stronger 2.0/1.8/2.0 spokes, and have someone professionally build you a set with correct tension.Interesting ... I had all the spokes upgraded to Sapim 2.0 1.5 2.0 but they are still breaking ... what difference would a hub make? Bare in mind that I have noticed they all seem to break near the same place very close to the rim. So in the thickest part. I was thinking the rim (all breaks are on the rear) is just too flexy. But the last one yesterday broke on a straight bit of track just as I started braking. I wasn't even going fast.